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Showing results for tags 'plunger'.
Found 7 results
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Is there a way to adjust the choke on 96 Royal Star? Mine looks to be closing the right carbs but not all the way on the side carbs. I am talking about the little plunger that the linkage bar hooks over. I actually need a new choke handle cause mine is busted.
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I was going to post this in reply to a members fuel problems, but decided to start a new thread so it could be located later for reference. Here is a bunch of pictures I took of a 1st gen fuel pump a week ago just for S&G's. The RSV is probably similar, but I don't know. Just offering this as maybe some help in understanding the mysterious fuel pump. It is not a really technical description below, but the basic operation. In a nutshell, the pump operates by energizing a coil and pulling the plunger towards the contact end. This pushes in the contact assembly on the other end, breaking the current path to the coil. The plunger returns to rest position, contact closes & cycle repeats. When the plunger pulls towards the contact, it pulls gas in from the tank into the pump cavity via a one way valve. On the Return stroke the fuel is pushed out another valve towards the carbs. This happens until 1 of 2 things occur, first is pump builds up pressure in line and and the plunger does not return forward to complete pump stroke. 2nd is the fuel pump circuit times out after 4 seconds of not sensing motor running and cuts off current to pump. On pump end there are two diaphragm type valves, one allows fuel to be pulled in to pump cavity, but not pushed back out. Other allows fuel to be pushed out towards carbs, but not flow back into carbs. Not my best tech write up. Gary
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About a month ago there was a post about a notchy feeling in the break and clutch and I believed I solved it with a fluid change. well its back and very annoying. I will hit the brale and its not enough to stop so I squeeze harder and it notches from firm to death grip and makes me really dive. I wonder if my plunger has goulk on it that needs to be cleaned out or if the pistons in the calipers have corrosion. either way. can someone direct me to a good source for both rebuild kits?
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The one on the bars not the slave cylinder. I had a extra in my parts and took it out to put on my 85. It only had 2 wires in the wiring harness. When I started to pull the one from the 85 it had 4 wires. So back to plan one. I replaced the plunger and bushing but it still does not return out all the way when you release it after pulling into bar. I did bleed it out. Do I need to take the plunger out and clean in there or what? The master itself is working good just not returning as far as it should. It lacks quite a bit coming out as far as it should. A inchor little better. After you release it you can pull it out that much further.
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There is a brass piece in the clutch lever that depresses the plunger for the clutch. On the used 2002 Venture I bought last year, this piece is quite worn - I think the previous owner never lubed it. Does anyone know if this piece can be purchased anywhere? If not, I'll probably see if I can find a piece of brass rod with the appropriate diameter and drill a hole partway through for the plunger. Also, can the pivot bushing for the clutch (and brake) be replaced? Mine are a bit sloppy due to (I suspect) lack of maintenance. Didn't find part numbers for these bits in the Yamaha listings. Ross
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:confused24:I have an 89Vr. The cruise seems to have power, (the lights light up) but the cruise doesnt work. There is a plunger switch on the clutch handle that has a broken mount(plastic thats in the housing that clips into the handle bracket). Therefore, the plunger is always open. Would this be connected to the cruise somehow? If so can I bypass it? It doesn't seem to have any other function. If this isn't the problem, does anybody have any idea where to start? Electrical isn't one of my strong points.
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A while ago, I mentioned that I had a contact that could make fork sleeves. You know, those protective covers that fit over the shock plungers to protect them from stones, bugs, etc and keep the crude from tearing up the fork seals. Well, he never came through for me. So, the other day as said, "What the heck. It can't be that difficult." So, after a bit of trial and error, here is what I came up with. They are made from Naugahyde with foam backing and four snaps. They fit around the fork plunger and a loose enough to allow the plunger to slide through . Total cost, for parts and material (labor don't count) was only $4.50 per set.
