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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Yammer Dan was who I learned about the zip tie trick from. He will forever be known for this and his penchant for Sea Foam. Gary
  2. dingy
    Didn't help a bit with my new setup. I was pulling straight fluid out with the mighty vac on both sides. No bubbles. Speed Bleeders with fresh teflon tape on them. Very little lever till I did The "Yammer Zip". Gary
  3. dingy
    For something to try, I would upload Ignitech stock program into the TCI to eliminate any timing variations I did. This is on the CD I sent you under the Ignitech Supplied Files directory. You want to use the v-max old venture V88 file. Don't try the v-max new v88 as it is for a single pickup coil 90-93 bike. Gary
  4. dingy
    Do you still have linked (stock) brakes? If not then operation is Front lever only does right front caliper. Rear does left front & rear. Look at underlined text I put in previous post, I edited it. Gary
  5. dingy
    Mike, I took the liberty off editing your post below, I may be incorrect in this, but it will be a 1st this evening. Gary
  6. dingy
    Pump it several times to get maximum pressure and apply zip tie. Leave bleeders closed. Cover stays on master, at least that is what I do. If it is off, brake fluid will absorb moisture. Remove zip tie, let lever return to normal, then bleed at banjo right away by slightly pulling lever & opening banjo bolt. I just did this to mine, and it went from no lever to fantastic lever. Gary
  7. dingy
    Take a zip tie or whatever and clamp the front lever all the way back. Leave it overnight. When you remove zip tie, then slightly crack open banjo bolt at master and gently pull lever in. This will allow air that was in line to escape. Tighten banjo bolt before releasing lever. Gary
  8. dingy
    There is no force that pulls the pads away from the rotors with disc brakes. Drum brakes have springs to retract them from drums. When the master is release, there is an extremely small negative pressure imparted for milliseconds until the plunger clears the holes in the master. This does little to clear pistons, considering flex in lines, uneven piston friction, number of pistons being moved, etc. On disc face, there is a very thin layer of high pressure air right at the rotor surface, which will 'assist' in retracting pads. Even then, there is a miniscule amount of clearance between pad & rotor. Gary
  9. dingy
    1st picture below is from under bike, looking forward at torque arm for rear caliper mount. I don't have anything in front that I could get to except swing arm. 2nd picture is a side view of underslung mount. This is a VMax caliper arm & caliper. The caliper would not clear the saddlebags in the normal, above rotor configuration. 3rd picture is a view down showing clearence between swing arm and a normal 282mm MKII rotor. Ther is no way the 320mm floating offset stock rotor from a MKII would fit. This is due to VMax rear wheel being wider than a stock Venture. I elected to go with the VMax setup due to the torque arm configuration allowed me to reposition the caliper. Drawback of this is VMax never went to 100mm rear caliper mount bolts, so until I get a custom mount made I am stuck with this caliper. 4th picture shows swing arm out of bike with caliper, caliper arm and torque arm mounted as vied from lower side. 5th & 6th pictures are of the surgery it took to get a stock VMax caliper arm to fit. One on left was a rough 1st pass at it. Final one is in center & a stock, unmodified one is on right. What I have seen with this bike on a dyno last year was that the rear end climbs to the top of the shock travel as it was run up to speed on the dyno. I have not noticed any adverse effects from climbing or diving in the rear due to the brake. This taking into account I am primarily a front brake user under normal conditions. Gary
  10. dingy
    Baby has brakes ! ! ! Took it for a short 20 mile ride tonight and I made it home. Brakes are very smooth, I didn't try any hard stops, but what I did try say there is more power in these than the R1 - 4 pistons by quite a bit. I attached a couple of pictures to show lever travel. 1st is normal position, 2nd, I am putting a lot of pressure on lever and I still have about an inch of travel. I can't bring the lever back to grip with anywhere near reasonable force. This is a 14mm master from an MKII pushing 12 pistons & S.S. lines, delinked. I think this mod was a success. Gary
  11. dingy
    I would need some measurements from an RSV to verify they will fit. The set that was made for my bike probably will not fit any other bike. I have a VMax front rim on which is narrower than the standard rim. This then moves the rotors inboard towards center line, causing calipers to need to be moved inward. I would also like to have some closeup pictures of rotors/caliper mounts. What diameter/thickness are stock rotors. Will a set of 2000 era R1 4 pot calipers mount on an RSV, this will help with design parameters if they will fit. RSV's don't have a front wheel speedometer cable correct? I powder coated mine red to match some other accents on bike. Gary
  12. dingy
    Last October was last I rode it. I'm in Ohio. I didn't get much riding in last year. I had back surgery in July last summer. Put 1,100 miles on it, not much for me. I haven't had it out this year yet. Will in the next couple of days though. Gary
  13. dingy
    Brakes are permanently mounted and bled now. Powder coated brackets red. Bleeding went better than it has in past. I didn't have good lever after full bleed, so I tied lever back to grip for about 3 hours. When I released it lever, lever engagement was great. I don't understand how this trick works, but I have seen it work 1st hand several times now. Even with the total of 12 pistons on the front master I still have very good lever travel. I have plenty of space between grip & lever with the lever been pulled very hard. I have a 14mm MKII front master on bike. Bike is completely together as of 9:00 tonight with a couple of small things to tidy up. All the body work is on. Didn't take it out and try it as it was late. The radio sounds fantastic with decent rear speakers in it. It even got some LED effects lighting on it I got for a Christmas present 2 years ago. Gary
  14. dingy
    That is the 6th Bikini cut mod that I think I have seen. I think Thom or Venturous were 1st ones I had seen. There was one in California that had its pictures on here a time or 2, and I saw one at Pinwall that had been dismantled last fall. Then there is my version of this. Gary
  15. dingy
    Did you replace the harness end connectors with the new ones I sent ? Which end was a problem, adapter harness or bike harness end ? Gary
  16. dingy
    Attached are pictures I just took of my harness. I know this one is correct. Bike is running on all cylinders. Gary
  17. dingy
    Attached is also wiring diagram I have for the TCI's that I send along. Same pin outs as Brian showed above. All these are represented looking into the wire side of the plug. You need the bottom set, top is for single pickup coil bikes. Gary
  18. dingy
    Brian, Think you are right, the pickup coils are reversed on TCI end. Attached are a couople of pictures I have from a V80 harness, wire color is different in my picture, it has a green one in it. Also has 3 extra wires for MAP. Good news is the 90-93 unit you were helping me & Mike with is running. Gary
  19. dingy
    Can you read the program that is in the TCI now, its a button on the upper menu, this will download the program in TCI to software. Then save this program to your PC with a unique name & email to Brian & myself, so we can see what is happening. Gary
  20. dingy
    I see from your profile that you have an 84 with a 1300 motor. Do you know what year the motor is from? If it is a 90-93 motor, that is why it is not starting, the pickup coils are different. What is the model # on the TCI that was running? 3JJ prefix and it is 90-93 41R and it is 84-89 26H and it is an 83 Gary
  21. dingy
    The wiring that Ignitech gets wrong often is the two blue wires. Verify that the blue wire in the 8 pin connector is going to the 20 pin connector position 14, this is the slot next to the red wire in position 13. If it is not going to correct position on 20 pin connector, you need to swap the 2 blue wires. This is easiest to do at the 6 & 8 pin connectors. If these are correct, then in the TCIP4 software, try turning off Inputs #1 & #2. These are on the Miscellaneous tab of software, left center of screen. You need to upload program anytime you make a change. Just changing it on computer screen does to change it in TCI until program is uploaded. You will see a blue bar on the screen when program is completing. Only a couple of seconds. How long ago has it been since you bought the TCI from Ignitech? Gary
  22. dingy
    Not sure what the brackets would sell for if I would pursue that. Calipers and rotors are often available on ebay. There are several sets of calipers on there now. 2nd gen Vmax calipers are the same. Overall I have a about $700 in this project. That includes set of calipers, rotors, aluminum, 2 prototypes, machining costs and bolts. A lot of development time that is not included also. Bike will most likely have all the body panels on this weekend. Have 2 more strip LED accent lights to mount and completing wiring hookups. Picture from last night attached. Gary
  23. dingy
    1st thing you need to see what is going on with the TCI is a cable that you can hook it up to a laptop with. Normally this is a 9 pin com cable. Very few laptops have a 9 pin serial port on them. Most have a 9 pin VGA port, this is usually blue color. The VGA port will not work as a com port though. What this leaves is to get a 9 pin com to USB cable. Link below to one at tiger direct. About $20 with shipping. http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=690719&CatId=447 On the white connector on the Ignitech TCI box itself there is sometimes a tag telling version. V75, V80 or V88. Can you get me some close up pictures of the adapter harness on each end so that I can see how wiring is configured. That is about all we can do until you get a way to hook a PC up to it. You should have gotten a CD with it from ignitech. Email me the small file on the CD, it will have the file extension .IGN. I will PM you my email address, you have to email it due to we can't PM files on this site. I will help you as much as I can with this. Gary
  24. dingy
    The radial brake conversion is now a reality !! I received the machined brackets from Bob Meyers (member here) today. Very nice machine work at a very good price for a single set prototypes. They mounted on the bike perfectly. My day job is a mechanical design engineer. I have the CAD tools at home to be able to design & get plastic prototypes made for this conversion. The calipers came from a came off a 2011 R1, with 45 miles on it, they upgraded brakes on it. Not wrecked and in perfect condition. Squeeze convinced me this was the way to go if I wanted something better than the R1 4 pot calipers that I had on the bike. Rotors are 298mm x 5mm from a 2003 FJR. I went through 2 versions of a rapid prototype that the local high school did for me at a decent price. Calipers & brackets have been run through a CAD FEA software package that calculates stresses on a part and determines its suitability for a given application. Original thread on this process if you are interested, started out going to use a set of YZF calipers. Never mounted them. This is the 4th set of brakes that has been on the bike. Stock set, MKII set, 2000 R1 quad pistons, and now 2011 R1 six piston radials. Needless to say, but the brakes are delinked. Rear end is a modified under slung VMax setup that was required to use when the VMax 15" rim was mounted on last winter. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65445 Have a few more minor tasks to get done & bike will be ready to go. This winter has seen the full V-boost controller added, Marks header, upgraded brakes, painted yellow, rear speakers, replaced some less than perfect body panels with better ones, VMax front wheel, some powder coating, accent LED lighting and other tasks done to it. Hopefully, I haven't crossed that fine line between great brakes and to much brakes !!! Gary
  25. dingy
    Old TCI should fit back in with the removal of the Ignitech adapter harness. The stock Vacuum sensor would be a better match for the stock TCI. The new MAP sensor would not be wired into the stock TCI as it has seperate connection to Ignitech TCI. For a good comparision of differences between TCI's, it would be best to have old vacuum sensor installed. Gary
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