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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    I have talked to the Quaker Steak & Lube that we have went to the last 2 years in Shefield, Oh and they have a large party booked Friday night. The QSL in Vermillion can handle us. They have 28 tables on the dock balcony. It will be somewhat different than the Sheffield site, but still dinner together. This one will be a more traditional outdoor setting rather than the picnic type tables. We will need to use the tables to the maximum capacity, but we are all friends here. It is the same distance as Sheffield. About a 20 mile ride. Last 2 years people left in small groups to go to QSL. But I would say plan on around 5:00~6:00 time at restaurant. Link to Vermillion site: http://quakersteakandlube.com/Vermilion_OH/ I am putting an event on the calender for this. Map from Don's to QSL link below. This will actually be a nicer ride than to the one in Sheffield. http://g.co/maps/75rae Please let me know an approximate head count. Added calender link below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/calendar.php?do=getinfo&e=318&day=2012-6-1&c=1 Gary
  2. dingy
    Have heard several say that clutch and/or brake switches turned out to be cause of problems. Probably more so the bushing in the clutch lever. Gary
  3. dingy
    I copied the wrong P/N. One I had shown was a slotted screw Below is Phillips head version. 91800A326 Gary
  4. dingy
    McMaster Carr 5mm They are called 'Cheese Heads' 91800A326 Gary
  5. dingy
    Post an item number for the aftermarket ones you are looking at. There are a lot of 'Wave" rotors out there. Most of these a 5mm thick, which would cause the caliper not to be centered over the centerlin of the rotor. Not sure if this is a critical problem but it will cause the outboard pistons to be extended farther out of the caliper by 2.5mm (.098"). Not sure if this is getting close to allow caliper to pass seal when pad is at its wear minimum or not. Also, 84 & 85 rotors are different from 86 & 87. I messaged this guy about that some time ago & he keeps listing them like this. 83~85 are 298 dia & 86~93 are 282 dia on the fronts. Gary
  6. dingy
    Never having worked on the RSV, I did not know about upper limit. I try to keep my 1st gen upper & lower in the window. To full can be as bad as to low. Gary
  7. dingy
    Very nice job. Interesting how far down on the master cylinder the 'full' line is though. Gary
  8. dingy
    The rotors you are looking at on ebay will work fine on your bike, rotor can be moved from left to right (or other way) as long as cutouts are oriented the same. This means a normal right rotor's face that is bolted against the rim, when moved to the left side will now have the opposite side bolted up to the rim. Something to consider, it depends on what is used to measure a rotor that will determine the actual wear on the rotor. Brake pads do not come all the way to the edge of a rotor, they stop about a 1/16" shy of the edge. This then means that the very outer edge never gets worn down. If a standard set of calipers are used to measure the thickness, there is a good possibility that the outer edge will be measured and not the wearing surface. Not sure if this is a valid concern since the rotor measured differently. But new specs on a 90 rotor is 7.0 thick, and this one is measured at 7.0 thick. Below are the ebay item numbers for the left & right calipers from what I think is the same bike. The left pads look new, the right set is almost gone. Somewhat typical of what I would expect wear wise from an experienced rider using a linked brake setup. This bike has 47,000 miles on it. The left rotor looks grooved somewhat as compared to the right, but this can be deceiving in photos. Again, though, what I would expect from linked brakes with an experienced rider. reason is the left is used far less than the right rotor. This allows road debris to slightly accumulate more on the less used left rotor, then when it is used, this ever so slight build up wears more on the rotor face. Reason I think this does not happen as much on the right is it is used much more often and build up is minimal when brakes are used at a higher frequency. There is a specialized micrometer that is used to measure rotors that has a point on the face of the rotor and reaches past the outer ridge. 330712642078 Left caliper 350555150922 Right caliper For $56.50 each, they look like a very nice set. Gary
  9. dingy
    Happy Bday, whats left anyway !! Gary
  10. dingy
    It really depends on loading and width of the piece at the bend. Previous occupation I was designing metal enclosures made out of 1/8" 6061 sheet. Typically, after part was punched out using a Strippet turret punch, the pieces would be formed on a somewhat standard 10' hyd. brake press. Typically used a 1/16" inner radius die set. If you are just going to do a single bend, material length is easy to calculate. But if you need more than 1 bend, and you are doing sharp bends, then you need to do a bend allowance calculation. The material stretches slightly at each bend, this is a critical calculation when a corner panel is done. I had a couple that had 8 bends in them, corners, offsets for doors, and insulation pockets. with each bend growing the overall length it was interesting getting the last bend worked out so there was the required length for it. Excel sheet I made up to help with calculations attached. I put a few values in for 3 legs, to help see what it does. Gary
  11. dingy
    The one item that is a slight concern in the spec sheet is the -40C~50C operating temp range. 50C is 122F., seems like a lot and is for most ambient air temps. But the front lens on the light looks like it could act like a magnifying lens and create higher than ambient temps inside housing. Gary
  12. dingy
    Speedometer internal pictures a member asked for. Posting here so others can see them . Last picture is of the reed switch that controls the cruise & the turn cancel by distance feature. Gary
  13. dingy
    Most of the parts will fit. Wiring harness, stator cover & pickups, TCI, clutch & cover, headlight cover, probably handlebar controls are different for sure. Motor for most part will interchange. Better brakes on newer one. Gary
  14. dingy
    Attached are a few pictures of different bikes I copied over the last couple of years, when I was looking for ideas to paint mine. Last 3 are from Thom, Steve CrossleY & RandyA. Gary
  15. dingy
    He has the VMax curve in his TCI. Gary
  16. dingy
    After swapping some messages with BKuhr last night, I swapped the program out in my V88 unit to the V80 version I was using last year. I used the TPS option instead of the IAP. When the older version IGN file is loaded, only the user adjustable settings are uploaded into the current firmware in the module. A V80 version of the software will not work with the V88 hardware. The IAP option is still there, as it is hard coded into the TCI, but it can not used. Other 2 options are TPS & none. On my bike I used 3.2V to 0% TPS & 4.2v for 100% TPS. Screen shot attached. Previous post questioned if any one had put different program in bike. Posts #12 & #27 address this, which has been done by at least one person. Took bike out and rode about 20 miles with no dropouts. This is not validating this fix at all. I had about 250 miles on bike so far this year and only had 3 dropouts within minutes of each other Sunday. I still have some other issues to address with bikes running. Going to go back to a more stock version of the mufflers. With the Marks collector on, it is to loud for me. Also getting a popping in exhaust tone. I am going to pull the carbs & replace the 8 rubber joints to the VBoost unit & the head~intake o-rings in the next day or so. I have the new parts here, just been avoiding pulling carbs. Not real easy with Vboost on. The bike is getting a slight increase in idle when I shoot ether around intakes, I know about downside of using ether, but I prefer it over other options. Also idle is not steady, so I have other issues beside TCI. I really need the bike running smoother to help notice any variations from the TCI. Gary
  17. dingy
    PDF attached of what Frank detailed above about checking diodes. There is a schematic attached that may aid in visualizing this. Gary
  18. dingy
    Dan, I refer you to your post #681, which happens to be the last one with pic's, dated 4/14/12. Noting the difference between these two sets of pictures appears to be the OSB on part of the roof, I think you should give the Warden a big kiss for letting a slacker share her fine home. Gary
  19. dingy
    I just checked the hole dia. in the riser and it is 1.020" dia., so 1" would be snug, but would fit. The shoulder on the nut is .907" dia. Picture of it attached FWIW. It is the extra length welded one I did. Don't have it on at this point. Gary
  20. dingy
    Since I have learned to live with a shorter one, that would be my preference. I would like a pair. Gary
  21. dingy
    Nothing at all unusual about route, all three times it appeared to be in the 3800~4200 RPM range. Isolated tach dropout was in that RPM range as well. It was within 5 miles of when I left house, so possibly bike was not fully warm. But this was exactly the same route I have taken to work on the bike for the past week, with nothing similar happening and all three occurred prior to work site. It was fairly warm, about 75~80. Morning temps are in 50's. TCI is located in left fairing pocket so I don't think motor temp is related. The IAP suggestion sounds like a prime candidate since that was a major change to this module. Maybe if Bob (AtlantaDragonslayer) made this change to his unit it would help with parallel test paths. I know he has a capable of it as he has a cable and able to reprogram unit. I can swap mine over tomorrow & post the needed settings in the TPS sensor window. They will differ from the V80 units due to I had put a resistor in TPS lead in the V80's to get readings down below 2.5V. This was a carry over from my experience with the V75. Turned out not to be required though. Ignitech had removed the 2.5v threshold on the V80 setting window. Gary
  22. dingy
    Digitals are great considering the cost, but for most stuff I prefer my Simson 260 analog (needle) meter. As long as it doesn't involve a circuit board directly. Not really sure why I prefer this antique over the 2 digitals I have, but I like it. The one with tach functions would be a great choice for a digital. Not real cheap at $70, but nice. Gary
  23. dingy
    I experienced the TCI dropout yesterday first hand. Didn't post till today because I was wanted to find a set of pick up coils I had & devise a plan to narrow down root cause of failure. Road about 140 miles yesterday, within the 1st 5 miles, I had 3 dropouts, and that was it, no other dropouts the rest of the day. I did not see if the tach dropped at the same time on any of them. The best way I can describe this dropout is as though the TCI completely shut down for about a half second. I did notice later in day that the tach did drop out one time that I happened to see, but with no dropout in the power. This leads me to believe that there is either a pickup coil issue or poor connections somewhere in the related circuits. The reason I say this is that if it were the TCI, it would be a multiple failure scenario in order to get the 2 different conditions. The same reasoning does hold true for any other cause, but I want to try and rule them out 1 at a time. I have a new exact replacement for the pickup coil connection. I am going to borrow a crimp tool tomorrow & as a 1st course of action replace this connection. Due to the very sporadic nature of this problem, I don't have a clue as to say how long before I decide if that fixed it, if ever. I do know if it drops out again, as a plan B, I will replace the pickup coils with a spare set I have. I have a stator cover gasket on hand. Plan C, will be to eliminate the adapter harness for the TCI. I have an extra cable end for the TCI plug. I am not sure if the TCI is blameless or not. In one way, it is very suspect, as I have not heard of this problem with any of the V80 units I resold, nor any of the older V75's. Ignitech's statement that the 2 units function the same is somewhat meaningless as this is a revised version of the previous releases. There are many electronic issues that will not show up under standard testing. My company is going through many of these problems right now as we try to introduce new PC board equipped products to the market. Any suggestions as to other courses of targeted testing/component replacement are welcome. I do not believe until we have eliminated any existing component problem possibilities that Ignitech will admit any culpability. On a related note, the single pickup coil equipped unit that I had a programming problem is on its way back to me. It failed and left the member with a no start condition. He replaced stock unit & it started. I intend to put it in mine when it arrives to see if it functions as a 4 pickup setup. I really am trying to get this issue resolved, it is very much a concern that I to me, due my involvement with this project and using one. Gary
  24. dingy
    The 4 way flasher cable must be plugged into the harness for the turn signals to work. Just in case you have it apart somewhat. Gary
  25. dingy
    Covers look great on the aluminum block !! Gary
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