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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Just in case you have front end off, the turn signals will not work with the hazard switch unplugged. (right side under handle bar, in plastic cover) Gary
  2. dingy
    Also do look at the thread below, what I posted above, probably won't help you at all. What I posted related to a 1st gen. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58880 Gary
  3. dingy
    This is a 4 year old thread you are posting to. One of the problems may be the amount of free play at the cruise bellows on the left side of the bike under the fairing. The cruise cable should only have about 1/16" free play in it. There is an adjuster in the cable to snug it up. Gary
  4. dingy
    I am signed up as of about 6:00 pm Just changed it to -Both, way to dang complicated. The site owner even screwed it up. Gary
  5. dingy
    http://www.ignitech.cz/english/aindex.htm You need a TCIP4, 4channel, V80 TCI for a 1983 OLD Venture. Specifically say OLD Venture, that is what they call the 4 pickup coil bikes. I would try & get a V80 unit as opposed to the v88. There have been some of the V88 cut out briefly. Then in your spare time look at next thread, it will put your bike info in your posts to help with knowing what you are asking about. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58880 Gary
  6. dingy
    I am OK with them using the stuff, just curious about where they got it. Gary
  7. dingy
    Brian, What site is this you linked to. That is my owners manual I scanned that is on there. I had posted it on a site at one time a few years ago. Just curious about its journey. Also just noticed the schematics that I only posted on this site are there. Gary
  8. dingy
    I have a spare left, but not a right. Gary
  9. dingy
    In the mail tomorrow. Gary
  10. dingy
    This what you need? May clean up, but not perfect. Gary
  11. dingy
    I might. I put the Venture Line fog lights/horn mounts on this spring. I know I used one set to mount the left hand air horn, but I may have some extras. I will take a look. Gary
  12. dingy
    If it is an 83, I don't think cruise was avaliable that year. Someone may have added it later, takes a lot of modifications to add one to an 83. Been there done that. Gary
  13. dingy
    This roof is taking longer than the slab did !! Gary
  14. dingy
    Picture attached. It is the rectangular gizmo, under the red wire by a couple of inches. Only realistic way to get at it is remove outer & inner fairings on left side. Gary
  15. dingy
    The VMax should be the same as an 86-93 Venture. I can see the 83-85 Venture being a different # due to the slides being smaller. This is due to a 34mm carb on the MKI's and a MKII's having a 35mm carb. But the VMax's always had the 35mm carbs. I got a #2 carb body only this winter from a VMax and put everything from my 87 Venture carb into it, and it fit fine. Reason I did this was the #2 body on the VMax has an extra boss on it that the choke linkage mounts to. I eliminated the handle bar choke and went to a carb mounted setup due to VBoost complications. I have been wrong on multiple occasions though. Gary
  16. dingy
    Wrong guy to ask about 2nd gens. They are somewhat different than the 1st gens. Goose, Squid, Skydoc, come to mind. I am sure there are others. Gary
  17. dingy
    Any connector will work. This one also served to be an adapter for the 2 different size vacuum lines. Larger hose on the intake manifold, smaller one on the boost sensor. PM me if you want me to send you one I have. I just got to find it, I know I have one. Picture attached of a Doorman replacement that Auto Zone or similar parts stores have. #47311 Gary
  18. dingy
    Agree with Brian. This is half of the restrictor coupling in the TCI vacuum line. The end that has vacuum will connect to the #2 carb. The other end will go to the boost sensor. Pic attached. Gary
  19. dingy
    I am going to be there 21st thru 24th Staying in Blue Knob, we rented a ski lodge for 4 days. Call or text me, my cell # is in my profile. Gary
  20. dingy
    See attached picture. This is a rear reservoir from a VMax. I think it can be made to work in a pinch with a little McGyvering for the mount. The fluid level will not work on this one and will need to be bypassed. Good part is reservoir is translucent, so level can be checked easy. Put the search string in below, and several will come up on ebay. Pinwall had several for $15, including unusable master cylinder plus shipping. yamaha vmax master Gary
  21. dingy
    Mega Copper Auto Zone or O'Riely's have this high temp RTV. Good to 700 F. I used it on the joints when I put my Marks header on this spring & it sealed 1st time. Pics attached. Gary
  22. dingy
    Commando !! Gary
  23. dingy
    At the risk of offending Goose, I am going to disagree with his statement that "adding or removing fork oil, but that information is just wrong" Half of it is correct, you should not add more oil than the maximum specified, which on 1st gens is 5.5" with forks collapsed and springs removed. To much oil will severely limit the compression ability of the forks The rest of this is for those who are willing to do some experimenting to tune the bike to what they want, not some cookie cutter approach that one size fits all. If you are the kind of person that thinks, for example, because the tire says 42 PSI on the sidewall, that's all it should ever be, then read no farther. Goose's opinion is the right one for you. Lowering the oil level slightly will help the stiffness of the front end be lessened. And by slightly, I am saying no more than about 7.5" in a Venture. There is little chance of foaming in a touring bike like the Venture. A 250cc motocross bike, ya, it will happen. Lowering the oil level creates a larger air pocket in the top of the fork. Air is a compressible substance. A larger air pocket will allow for a more gradual increase in the stiffness of the springs as the fork collapse due to a impact on front tire or braking, causing a weight shift to front end. Also changes should be done in small increments and a very safe and sane test ride taken after adjustments to see if it is right for you. Since the forks have provisions for either manual or CLASS addition of air, a stiffer ride can be obtained by increasing fork air pressure. I have attached the progressive install manual, which has a chart (Figure 1) that denotes the maximum oil level at 5.5". There is a notation higher than that is 'Oil Level Too High' and a notation below that is 'Safe oil level', and this does show actually more than 7.5" They also say to keep it at shop manual specifications in the text. I contend this is some pencil pusher put this in for legal purposes. Next is a link to one web site saying lowering level is a fork tuning tool. http://www.dirt-bike-secrets.com/oil-level.html http://www.dirt-bike-secrets.com/motorcycle-fork-oil.html Just in case someone asks, What do I do? I keep front and rear end stiff. I ride this bike to its full potential and I like the front end tighter in curves, it is more predictable and responsive. The bike does ride harder on rough surfaces, but it is a trade off for the tighter handling I want. Let the flaming begin !! Gary
  24. dingy
    There are several other things in the wiring that would make one think it was the TCI, when it is only responding to its inputs. There are some people on here that are very experienced with these bikes and I have yet to see a good way of pinpointing a TCI other than swapping it for a good one as a test. There is a six pin connector coming from the pick up coils near the shock damper that I have seen cause problems that would include cutting out. There is a cut out circuit that checks a 'bank angle' switch in the headlight compartment, this circuit can kill TCI if intermittent. The power supply circuit to the TCI can fail. The 83's have glass tube style fuses which are a common failure point. The holder weakens and does not clamp fuse well enough, check both ends. Gary
  25. dingy
    Later model R/R's did not have the brown wire on the 1st Gens. Attached is a PDF on checking diodes, if any fail, trash R/R If stator is unplugged, there should be no continuity to ground. Are you measuring AC volts on stator, should be a lot higher than what you have. Gary
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