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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    I sorta depends on how much you sucked on it. The one attached to the cruise has a large bellows that would need a bunch of air displaced to make a difference. The one attached to the vacuum sensor is an extremely small chamber, so not much air would be displaced. The vacuum sensor will only make a slight difference in RPM's at idle, maybe 100 RPM's. The cruise on the other hand, depends on how good you are. Gary
  2. dingy
    If you hear a 'whirring' for about 3-5 secs when key is turned on, coming from over the top front cylinder bank, the VBoost is operating as it should. This is a self check, so the electronics knows what the position of the motor that operates the butterflies between the front & rear carbs. There is a separate electroic controller that operates the vboost, it kicks in at about 5700 rpm & opens the 5 & 6 butterflies. Works off an input from #2 coil for its rpm signal. This is what made the VMax's reputation what it was & is. If you ever want to help it more, by a bunch, your next step would be a set of VMax heads. 85~07 will fit with minor changes, main thing is the 'freeze' plug covers on side of cylinders are shorter with the VMax heads. Gary
  3. dingy
    The diode idea is certainly worth a try, but it could actually make the problem more noticeable. In my train signal design years with Conrail, one of the ways that a relay could be made 'Slow Release' is by snubbing it with a diode. If relay were to be slow release, then the horn will operate a second or so after it has had current removed. Looked over the RSV schematic, and I don't see an obvious cause for this. Gary
  4. dingy
    It appears you have the side cover off, so you may be able to see where it is going. I can't remember another vacuum hose in that area, other than the vacuum sensor. The vacuum sensor is attached to the rear of the coil rack, there is a 3 wire plug going into it from the bottom and a hose. Gary
  5. dingy
    Might be the hose to the vacuum sensor, should hook to #2 carb via a reducer nipple & another hose. Gary
  6. dingy
    How is the Oak tree doing ??? Gary
  7. dingy
    Something you might want to keep an eye on with your VBoost can be seen in your 2nd picture. The throttle cable bracket has been tweaked on the pull cable to angle it outboard. This is in order to get it to clear the frame. What this does is puts the full pressure of the thin cable on the white nylon bushing just under where the cable enters the curved part of the bracket. I was going to do this with mine, but I was concerned about the cable wearing through the nylon and becoming frayed. I elected to do some McGyvering to the bracket and inlet tube to keep the straight up pull. This relocation of the cable is needed due to the VBoost intakes raising the carb rack right up to the frame. What kind of mileage are you getting? I have a 1300 block with VMax jetted carbs, Vboost, VMax rear end & VMax rear wheel, to mention a few items. If I ride it very conservatively I have gotten 37mpg. If I am using it for what it was built for, I have seen 25 MPG, but that comes with a large grin factor also. Also looks like you are doing a carb sync. The VBoost butterflies also have a separate sync procedure on them, if they are out of adjustment, syncing main butterflies will be about impossible. I also see from your 1st picture that you have filter pods on. These are usually only used with a Stage 7 kit. With this, the VBoost is held wide open all the time. When you turn the key on do you hear the VBoost cycle through from closed to full open then back to closed. Do you have the power surge on a medium power take off at 6,000 RPM? Gary
  8. dingy
    Give this a try. Figure #4 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43025 Gary
  9. dingy
    Do you know what thread you used for the wiring diagram, there are several ways to wire an air horn in. Gary
  10. dingy
    This will be a stab in the dark, but I am good at that. Does the relay you used have an 87A designation on the center contact. Only should have an 87A if relay has 5 contacts. If it does have an 87A, are you wired to it? If it does have the 87A and its used, I will go farther into what could be happening, if not, never mind the man behind the curtain. Gary
  11. dingy
    Here is a link to the simplified circuits on your bike. http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/90-93%20Yamaha%20Venture%20DA%20Simplified%20Circuit%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf What BKuhr said about signal fuse is very true. Try to pull the fuse out of the holder gently, notice if there it is tight on both ends. Should be the 2nd fuse up from the rear in the main fuse box. 20 Amp. If the headlight operated as it should though, I wouldn't suspect the key switch to be faulty. The headlight is the main power consumer in the circuits that run through the shared contact in the key switch. Not ruling key switch out though. A few things to check and narrow problem down. Tail lights working. Bike running OK. Does fan work, this only kicks in when bike is getting hot. You can jumper it to check. Air compressor working. Radio working. Also, while you are at it, read the next post, it helps us help you. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58880 Gary
  12. dingy
    My fan is not working, I have isolated problem to the thermostat switch in the coolant tee. Anybody have a spare one ?? I need an 1st gen MKII version with 2 contacts on it. See attached picture. I can bypass it for now with a switch. Gary
  13. dingy
    Attached is a link to a thread showing a fuel pump dissected. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63062 Gary
  14. dingy
    Attached are PDF scans of a 1987 Venture Service Handbook for Technical Training. I got a copy of this on Ebay a while back and got around to scanning & posting it today. It covers Ventures from 83 to 87. There are quite a few interesting tidbits in the information contained in this material. I don't think this is all the service bulletins up to this point. In the Front End Noise, I found a reference to a bulletin M83-015 which I don't have, relating to Instrument panel noise, but this is not listed in the contents section. I broke the scans up by sections so I could get them uploaded. Gary Additionnal Predelivery service M83-015.pdf Steering Head Noise M83-016.pdf Front End Noise.pdf Stator Cooling Kit Installation M84-025.pdf XVZ12 Saddlebag Alert.pdf General Audio Troubleshooting.pdf
  15. dingy
    Attached are PDF scans of a 1987 Venture Service Handbook for Technical Training. I got a copy of this on Ebay a while back and got around to scanning & posting it today. It covers Ventures from 83 to 87. There are quite a few interesting tidbits in the information contained in this material. I don't think this is all the service bulletins up to this point. In the Front End Noise, I found a reference to a bulletin M83-015 which I don't have, relating to Instrument panel noise, but this is not listed in the contents section. I broke the scans up by sections so I could get them uploaded. Gary Files moved to tech library here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71406
  16. dingy
    I have a detector on mine, I don't use it much. No cover, it is velcro attached, so I remove it when ot using. Gary
  17. dingy
    I hate it when that happens. Has more than once. Is it the one that mounts to the rim? If it was mine, I would be inclined to ride it till it cooled down, but you will need to clean all the hub parts well when you put it back in. There is an oil seal on the main hub that will protect the internals of the final drive. Gary
  18. dingy
    You didn't ask, I'm not a mind reader !!! Whats interesting is on the last page in the letter to customers it says this repair will be honored even if bike is out of warranty. Anybody want to try ?? Gary
  19. dingy
    Attached are good scans of the technical bulletin that went to dealers for the stator cooling kit. I got a technical training manual that Yamaha issued in 1987, so I should have all the tech bulletins up till then. Just haven't got them scanned and posted yet. Gary
  20. dingy
    When you start getting into replacing brake components on a Venture, there are many variables that will effect the results. Attached is a PDF formatted chart that I have made up with quite a bit of information in it. I have highlighted a few areas that have a large impact on braking. The master cylinder area is shaded in red, the formula for this is R2*pi=Area (R being half the diameter of the piston). Total caliper piston area is shown shaded in green. Total caliper piston area is calculated by using the formula above for all the pistons in the calipers that are driven by the master. Note that some calipers have pistons of different diameters. Ratios are highlighted in blue. Using the total caliper piston area divided by master cylinder area a ratio can be determined for the interaction of the brake components. Ratios for 1st gens are shown in a linked and delinked configurations, yellow highlight. Linked is a brief site going into these ratios. http://www.vintagebrake.com/mastercylinder.htm There is a very basic picture attached I did showing the dynamics in a basic hydraulic setup. One of the key elements in braking force that most of us as casual tinkerers will probably not change is the braking lever geometry. This ratio between the pivot point and the driving arm for the master piston is a key element in the operation of a brake system. Attached chart does not take into account the surface area of the pads or the diameter of the rotor which will have a great influence on braking. Gary
  21. dingy
    Picture shows where mine ended up at. I used 12 gauge standard cable for the wire. Gary
  22. dingy
    I will bring along two pair of sunglasses for the raffle. A pair of ladies Vera Bradley with polarized gray lenses, Beverly model, color is Love me & case. A pair of mens Carrera with polarized gray lenses, black frame & case. Wife works at an optical lab and got these, they are closeout models, new, never used. Gary
  23. dingy

    Clutch help?

    dingy replied to sarges46's topic in Watering Hole

    I will be at Int. Rally and can assist you changing clutch. Gary
  24. dingy
    It will leak through the drive shaft opening. Reason being the seal for this opening is on the driveshaft itself, which you probably don't have in place with the final drive removed. Gary
  25. dingy
    OK Bob, I would like to think I am somewhat of an expert on 1st gen brakes, but you lost me here. The stock calipers, have 2 pistons, one on either side. The R1's have four pistons, 2 on each side. Other than that, the dynamics of the braking action is the same, or am I overlooking something. Gary
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