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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Getting closer to winter and I have been mulling over the idea of fitting a set of ABS brakes to Tweety for its annual winter upgrade. Not as far fetched as it may seem. The technology is out there and proven. It is just a matter of integrating an existing system onto a 1st gen Venture. Then there is that little testing issue, but that comes later. Mounting the rotational sensors seems like a relatively straight forward target. When I put the VMax wheel on the front I had to put spacers on each side due to narrower hub, so the front end is easy, the rear would be a tad more of a challenge. Finding room for the control unit seems possible in one of the fairing pockets. Then it would come down to plumbing in the lines, which should be relativity simple given the custom made stainless lines available. There are ABS controllers available at Pinwall scrappers now & then. Does anyone have any technical info on the inner workings of a MC system? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lock_braking_system Gary
  2. dingy
    I have caused at least two HD riders to put significant money in their motors to alleviate the shame of an old fat guy on a barco-lounger totally embarrassing them. Not to mention the run of the mill sportster or dyna that is a fleeting meeting. Gary
  3. dingy
    Mine is holding up well so far. He did most of it at Don's and added a little more lettering at the International. Gary
  4. dingy
    It could either be the gauge or the sender. The sender is located on right front side of motor. If you remove the radiator side guard you should be able to see it. There are two senders in the radiator hose junction tubing. One is for the fan and other is for gauge unit. Gauge unit has a Green with Red tracer wire going to it. Fan sender is a Blue with Green tracer. Either of these sensors can be shorted to ground on the connecting wire side to with no bad effects. The gauge sensor should cause the gauge to go full scale, the fan on will turn the radiator fan on. Both need the key on to do this. Gary
  5. dingy
    And your only about 45 minutes from me. You could come up and get it some evening. 592 Michigan Ave, Mansfield Oh. Gary
  6. dingy
    Couple of links below to the history of our younger cousin, the VMax. http://www.vmaxguru.com/Tech/Gen1/Pages/History/Gen1_History.htm http://www.monstermax.com/Yamaha%20Vmax%20History.html Link to the V-boost page doesn't work in the 2nd one. Gary
  7. dingy
    There are not really baffles in the collector, its more like about 1/16" perforated metal. Lot of small holes very close together. If you screw yours up I have a spare I will part with for less than the Ebay ones, and I will tell you truthfully what shape its in, which is good. Gary
  8. dingy
    I think a clutch side switch would also work on the throttle side. It may need wires swapped in the connector, but I don't think so, looking at the schematics. The wire color codes are different, but that really wouldn't matter. Next owner may be baffled at some future time, but that's his problem. For $12 we can figure it out for him. Connectors are physically the same. Gary
  9. dingy
    Look at link below, it is the 1st Gen Tech section. There are several posts I did which step by step show cleaning a switch. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=68 Call me, my phone number 419-six one zero 4972 Gary
  10. dingy
    I agree with posts above, there is an 26H-83980-00-00 listed on Ebay and this part is in the parts fiche as fitting a 1983 Venture, which never had the 4 wire switches. Gary
  11. dingy
    That would be a good option. If you do find & replace those seals, that money could be diverted to part of progressive spring cost. Over the years Yamaha had at least three different configurations on the bottom of the tubes regarding the anti dive parts inside the forks. The version that you have is only one to have a seal down there. I have dissected forks from of 83~85, 86/87 & 88/89, never opened up a 90~93 set though. I have cut open the lower tube and the inner tube in order to make somewhat accurate CAD models so I could get an understanding of what was going on in the forks, especially the AD units. I have attached a few pictures of the lower tube section so you can see what is different in the 88/89 tube from the 86/87 one. 86/87 is top one in pictures with 2 shown. Note the larger pocket at lower end of tub to hold the 'UFO' part. Gary
  12. dingy
    I would think that oil would come out the seals, assuming fork oil level is somewhat reasonable. Mine was shooting oil out the left fork a couple of days before the international, and I ran plastic around seal & stopped it.. Also check the 2 fittings on top of the class compressor, 14mm bolts, I think. Gary
  13. dingy
    Another birthday above ground.... That is good !!! Gary
  14. dingy
    I think the Iridiums are harder to foul than a standard plug also, but this is just an opinion. No basis in reality. Gary
  15. dingy
    Are you putting progressive springs in forks? Gary
  16. dingy
    Your voltage readouts are normal format. they are displaying to millivolts, but are over 1 1/2 volts on low end. Start by backing the 1.571 V to 1.200 V and program it and see what effect this has on the blue bar on the bottom left. RPM's are a little high for idle setting, try to get them back to 1,000. Idle adj on left side between carbs beneath connecting bar. Your dwell setting should be either long or auto with stock coils. Advance tab has right 2 columns set higher than you need for the RPM settings, you will probably never see 9000 rpm on stock Venture, even the 7000 high, drop it back to 5000, bring the 9000 down to about 6000 Gary
  17. dingy
    The stock sensors have been known to fail on numerous occasions. If you can blow through the hose from the intake port, without the other end being unhooked intentionally, then it has to be leaking to the sensor. PM me if you get to point of wanting to replace it, I probably have an extra one. Gary
  18. dingy
    Can you get a screen shot (picture) of your PC screen hooked up to TCI with bike running, so we can see actual settings? Bike & Misc & Advance tabs. Post them, this may help us see what is happening with motor running. Gary
  19. dingy
    That then indicates that MAP is working and communicating to TCI. The TCI is then varying the advance, which is causing slight change in RPM's. I don't have a clue as to why it is reading in MilliVolts. Ignitech people are in general a PIA to try and get a good answer from, but they are probably next on list. Keep your email to them short and to the point, no abbreviations or non specific terms. If you ask to many questions in one email, you will not get all your questions answered, this is from my experience with them. Send email to ignitech@ignitech.cz in subject line put Attn: Jan Matous Now the bad news, they are in Czech Republic, Europe. They shut the doors for most of August. You will get absolutely no reply from them if they are away on holiday. Gary
  20. dingy
    Just for something to try and see if sensor is affecting TCI at all. Pull the hose off the air intake nipple and plug intake nipple. Start the bike and get it running at idle around 1,000 RPM's. Apply suction to the hose going to the map sensor. By mouth is best way, trust me. With suction the RPM's should vary slightly, maybe 25~50 rpm's, release suction and should return to 'idle' setting. You will be able to hear the variations better than trying to watch tach. Do this a number of times and you should notice the variation in idle speed if sensor is actually working & TCI reading it. Gary
  21. dingy
    Just to clarify this, you want to check tank as soon as engine dies, assuming a safe pullover to side of road. It will have a in rush of air (whooshing) if vent is restricted. Gary
  22. dingy
    Attached is a manual for the TCIP4. I have not seen a manual for the V88 units, but 98% of info in this manual is same. Main thing different is the IAP settings and a the Power out screen. There is a wiring layout on page 3. Make sure you are following the TPS wiring and not the STPS wiring that is on the same schematic. I think I saw you are using a 1 bar MAP sensor. I would suggest you verify it is working correctly. If you have the pin outs for the BAR sensor then verify it is wired correctly. Then read voltage at pin 6 to the ground pin you are using. Pin 16 (gnd) needs to go to common for pickup coils. That leaves either pins 7 or 14 for the TPS ground. I used pin 7 on units I distributed. Also attached is a PDF of wiring diagram I made. Gary
  23. dingy
    That's actually more sane than what I thought you might be considering, which was reworking the 83's frame behind the neck. Gary
  24. dingy
    If you are gonna try what I think you are, Good Luck. Your gonna need it. Gary
  25. dingy
    1st thread has video clip with Marks header only on. 2nd photobucket link is with mostly gutted mufflers. FYI, smoking in 2nd one has been mostly corrected with valve seals. For some reason, it is showing photobucket clip twice, no idea how to fix that. Gary [ame=http://s1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/?action=view&current=IMG_1473.mp4]IMG_1473.mp4 video by gdingy101 - Photobucket@@AMEPARAM@@file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid1007.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faf193%2Fgdingy101%2FIMG_1473.mp4@@AMEPARAM@@file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid1007.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faf193%2Fgdingy101%2FIMG_1473.mp4[/ame] [ame=http://s1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/?action=view&current=PICT0562.mp4]PICT0562.mp4 video by gdingy101 - Photobucket@@AMEPARAM@@file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid1007.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faf193%2Fgdingy101%2FPICT0562.mp4@@AMEPARAM@@file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid1007.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faf193%2Fgdingy101%2FPICT0562.mp4[/ame]
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