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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    It's gotta generate some heat. A beveled gear set isn't the most efficient form of power transmission. With loss of power, the lost energy is converted to heat. 30 seconds is a real long time to touch something before it gets unbearable. Around 115 F. the body reacts very negatively to heat rather fast. The needle bearings on the outside of the final drive are not real easy to replace unless you are good with mechanics. As with any bearing, yes they can wear out, but not really often mentioned here. No the dealer won't laugh, he will probably thank you !! Gary
  2. dingy
    I sell some of the wrenches a have made on Ebay, and some are international shipments. Ebay ID is Dingy101. I had a Neutral feedback left by a buyer in Great Britian, comment left was "Not all postage paid customs charge". I shipped package at Post Office counter, so I am somewhat sure it had correct postage, it was same as evry Int. shipment except Canada, which is a little cheaper. That then leaves customs fees, I have no way of knowing what a foreign country is going to charge, never paid this. The buyer that left feedback has 261 - 100% feedback, so he is somewhat experienced. Anyone experienced buyers complaint about international shipment custom fees. Buyer irritated me, if you haven't noticed. Just sent him a tersely worded thank you note. Gary
  3. dingy
    Happy Birthday !!! Gary
  4. dingy
    Flasher is built into the 41R relay, also includes starting relay & turn cancel circuits Another possible problem could be the hazard switch or its connector. Turn signals will not worh with hazard switch unplugged. Gary
  5. dingy
    Attached picture is of final drive oil gauge for the 83-85's 86 & up are filled to bottom of hole. Don't know if anything bad would happen with the MKI, may leak some through the pinion shaft into swing arm. Gary
  6. dingy
    I saw that same bike last night. Sorta fugly actually. The tank just doesn't look right on top of the frame like that. That's why I am looking to cut that out & use a single backbone from the RSV. Front fender looks like it is on a tricycle. Don't know what to think about the handlebars. The forks are interesting with the addition of the helper springs, gives it a retro look. Looks like battery is where I thought it could go under the seat. He didn't use the left front rotor. One way of delinking the brakes at least. This would be a start in the direction I want to go though. I hope I can do a little better, at least in my opinion. Gary
  7. dingy
    K&N sells a filter cleaner kit. I have had this for 5 years at least. Doesn't take much to clean the Venture filter, also have K&N in Dodge Ram. Gary
  8. dingy
    Attached is a picture of the headlight wiring on an 88. These schematics are located at link below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42384 Only red/Yellow wire I see is the one going to the high beam indicator light. The wires for the bulb elements are Green/Red (low) & Yellow/Green (high). The first color in wire designation is the main color of the wire, second color is the tracer color. The voltage on the wire, which should only be one or the other, read to ground (depending on dimmer switch) should be the same. The bulb filaments are different which accounts for the lighting level difference. The Reserve lighting Unit (RLU) may have failed. Another possibility is dimmer switch needs cleaning, though I do not recall this being a problem. Cleaning dimmer switch link below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42721 I have seen an connector to the headlight bulb that was melted due to dirty contacts. Similar to the regulator plug melting issues. Gary
  9. dingy
    The washer with the smaller I.D. went in first, then the larger I.D. washer went above the fork seal. I can't find picture I had of it, but when I took fork apart at end of season, the upper bushing was being pushed through the large I.D. washer I had mistakenly put in first. I can't see that causing this problem though. Gary
  10. dingy
    I can't think of a reason that just putting oil in the tubes would cause them to bind up like you showed in video couple of posts back. They appear to be moving normally in latest video with the dry tubes. I can assure you that the block off plates are not involved with this though. I have them on Tweety and a number of others have them, they do not cause the high friction you are showing. The block off plates are no different than a set of MKII electric AD valves that have been unplugged, which is something guys have done to reduce current draw from the AD valves when in traffic. Attached is a picture that was posted of the internal rod assembly. This might be a possibility if the lock valve on the right side of picture is assembled wrong. Gary
  11. dingy
    Just looked at the video and I really don't know what you are showing. It appears it is taking way to much force to move the lower tube if springs are out & upper caps off. There has to be an assembly issue internally. You said springs are not in forks. Are the top caps in place and tubes filled with oil? How much oil is in tubes if they do have oil? Do lower tubes slide up and down somewhat freely with no oil or upper caps in place? Or is this what you are showing? The only friction point on the tube moving with no oil or upper caps on should be the contact between the fork seal/dust seal with the inner tube. Very minimal friction will be felt due to the upper & lower bushings. Gary
  12. dingy
    The rear master also has a reed switch in it. Two wire butt connection is on frame rail on right side near master cylinder. On the front switch, I think you can get to this connection through the head light bucket. This might be easier than removing fairing. The master cylinder reed switch cables are one white wire & one black wire on each circuit. As what Bob said, either front or rear can be unplugged and harness ends of wires shorted together to by pass switch. Will not hurt any thing. Bike is ride able safely with reed switch bypassed, you just have to check fluid regularly. Rear is a little harder due to no sight glass. Front on, should be kept a little over halfway up glass when handle bars are in a position to have master cylinder top level. If masters are full at time of replacing brake pads, I believe they have sufficient volume to still have enough fluid up to the point that pads need replaced. The rear master should not be filled all the way to the top. This has been known to cause a problem when fluid heats up and expands, this will cause the rear caliper to not release. With the proximity to the rear exhaust down tubes there is much more heat build up in the rear. Have heard this was a problem when riders have used brakes a lot such as in mountains on the downward side. I fill the rear master until it is to the top of the fill hole, then us a a suction bulb I have to remove a little. You can get suction bulbs at a drug store. They are in the ear care section. I have one my dad had forty years ago, he used it when he was splicing 8mm home movies together to blow dust off film. It has held up well with brake fluid. Gary
  13. dingy
    Below is a sequence of operation with the reserve lighting unit. This is a post I did 2 years ago relating to RLU operation This is what I have found with the operation of a working system on an 1988 wiring setup. I have just verified this information on my bike. I have independent spade lug terminals hooking up to the headlight plug in the wiring harness,due to my projector headlights, so it is easy to simulate burnt out bulb conditions. The reserve lighting unit is located on the right side of the headlight unit. When the dimmer switch is set to LOW and low beam lamp is not functioning, the reserve unit illuminates the high beam lamp at a reduced voltage, this keeps from blinding oncoming traffic. The dash white indicator light "Headlamp" is illuminated. CMU Headlight icon is displayed. When the dimmer switch is set to LOW and High beam lamp is not functioning. The dash white indicator light "Headlamp" is not illuminated. CMU Headlight icon is displayed. When the dimmer switch is set to HIGH and High beam lamp is not functioning, the reserve unit illuminates the low beam lamp at a near normal voltage. The dash white indicator light "Headlamp" is illuminated. CMU Headlight icon is displayed. The "High beam" indicator is lit. When the dimmer switch is set to HIGH and Low beam lamp is not functioning. The dash white indicator light "Headlamp" is not illuminated. CMU Headlight icon is displayed. The "High beam" indicator is lit. When both lights are not functioning, only the CMU icon is displayed when Low beam is selected. When HIGH beam is selected, the dash white indicator light "Headlamp" is illuminated. CMU Headlight icon is displayed. And the "High beam" indicator is lit. Assuming the wiring diagrams are correct, the high and low beam run through the CMU. There is an input circuit and an output circuit for both the high and low beams. The reserve lighting unit is where the input wire from the headlight fuse goes first. I am guessing that the current on this wire is used to determine if the lamps are lit or not. Last paragraphs are based on this assumption. If the Low beam is selected at the dimmer switch, a positive voltage is sent to the CMU, which then passes that voltage back to the headlamp. If headlamp is burning, reserve lighting unit does nothing. It senses normal current on feed wire, and it is getting voltage on its low side input. If the High beam is selected at the dimmer switch, a positive voltage is sent to the CMU, which then passes that voltage back to the headlamp. If headlamp is NOT burning, reserve lighting unit senses very low current on feed wire (some current consumed in CMU), and it is getting voltage on its low side input. The reserve lighting unit then outputs reduced positive voltage on the High beam circuit, thus illuminating High beam and signaling CMU that low beam filimant is burnt out. If the High beam is selected at the dimmer switch, a positive voltage is sent to the CMU, which then passes that voltage back to the headlamp. If headlamp is lit, reserve lighting unit lights the High beam indicator lamp. It senses normal current on feed wire, and it is getting voltage on its high side input. If it is not lit, the reserve lighting unit outputs positive voltage on the low beam circuit, thus illuminating low beam and signaling CMU that high beam filament is burnt out. Gary
  14. dingy
    Attached are some Computer Aided Design (CAD) drawings of the forks. These show the hydraulic AD units, Electrics are functionally the same. Couple of the pictures incorrectly show a left hand thread on the lower cap screw. Also attached are a few pictures of the many parts I have cut up to try & understand how these work. The AD can not make any difference until the fork is about 1" from being bottomed out. Replacing them to try to reduce the stiffness will do nothing. There are three different configurations on the bottom tubes inside.83~85, 86~87 & 88 ~93. They vary in the lower lock pocket configuration. Somewhat key with the design is the upper & lower holes to the AD valve ports both open into the lower part of the outer tube & are physically in the same volume of fluid. This does not change until the lower bushing on the bottom of the inner tube passes the upper AD port. I am not sure how the lock valve (shown in green) reacts during the tube travel, so it may not be depicted correctly. Gary
  15. dingy
    It sounded good for 9:30 at night. You are correct, but same principle applies with the corrected designation. Once again, I am the village idiot. I do try though. Gary
  16. dingy
    The picture I posted was of a line I need, Sorry !! I am putting together Tweety II starting this winter and it will be a bare bones look, no air compressor. I looked through my sizable parts stash last night and could not find another for you. I also think one from the front forks of a 1st gen would work. One without a compressor. These had the Shrader fitting mounted on a bracket near the key switch. Probably about 8" long. I have one of them but need it also. Picture attached of front one from a compressor equiped bike, but other is similar.. Gary
  17. dingy
    VMax will fit. Gear ratios are not the same as a Venture, somewhat opposite of what I expected for ratios. 1st less effective for acceleration, 2 & 3 are geared identical gearing. 4 & 5th are less effective for top end. These differences are very small though. The 1985 VMaxs also have had the same tranny problem as the 83-85 Ventures. It is not an expensive fix if you catch it early. Bypass 2nd gear for remainder of year and that will help it, not as much fun I know. Gary
  18. dingy
    That is a bad one. Was fixed in the mid 1400's I think. Picture attached of parts that are bad. Motor case must be split to fix, longer it is left unfixed, more damage is done to gears & shifter fork. Thrust washer need replaced on end of output shaft by bevel gear. Gary
  19. dingy
    One of the things I have learned about the exhausts is a term 'Scavenging'. This is a name for tying cylinders together that are opposite the pair being tied to an exhaust stroke. This keeps the gases flowing in the tubes and helps evacuate the cylinder when exhaust valve is open. The firing sequence on the Venture is 1-3-4-2. Front Left (1) Front Right (3) Rear Right (4) Rear Left (2) So by tying every other cylinder together is said to be optimal. This would mean tying Front Left (1) & Rear Right (4) and tying Front Right (3) & Rear Left (2). This is what the Marks collector does. In a sense, it is a 'Y' pipe on each side, but one leg of the 'Y' swaps sides. Picture attached because description of 'Y' pipes is not clear. Also learned that 4 exhaust pipes hurt horsepower drastically. This is coming from the VMax side, those guys are all about power and what works. Gary
  20. dingy
    1st picture is of the bowl side of a carb. Main nozzle is part sticking through into venturi in original post. The part just to the right of the float is the main nozzle, it comes through the body from the venturi, goes through the jet block, then is fastened with a brass screw from the bowl side. Screw is in main nozzle in picture. Main jet is below main nozzle. Under jet block to left side is 37.5 pilot jet (problem child for a lot of idling issues) Under jet block on right side is Main Bleed Pipe. Float needle valve is lower left of picture. 2nd picture is parts oriented more similar to position in body. 3rd picture is parts assembled in body. Screw holding the main nozzle is just above half moon shape at top of float. Gary
  21. dingy
    I know you are saying front of case, but that sort of sounds like a universal joint. Gary
  22. dingy
    Call me crazy (don't think your hitting virgin territory though) but I would think you should get a vacuum reading even if the cylinder isn't firing. The cylinder should still pull a vacuum when the intake valve opens and the piston travels downward. It wouldn't show a vacuum if there were a leak at the intake manifold to head, the lower carb to intake manifold boot, head gasket compromised, or a valve not operating. The valve not working could be either valve. Exhaust valve could not be closing, or intake may not be opening. Or even with a cylinder rupture, but that would be readily apparent. Gary
  23. dingy
    I sent it to him. Have sent him info from 2 members that are interested, so may not be any more avaliable. Gary
  24. dingy
    Did not know about stock being SS. So being the doubter than I am, I just checked my spare. It appears to be very low magnetic S.S. in the body area, but the connectors on the ends are very magnetic which leads me to think they are regular steel. Especially considering the ones I have seen that have been rusted badly at the connector area. Gary
  25. dingy
    Few pictures attached showing what Yammer is talking about. Marks collector shown that they are going into. I used high temp RTV and it worked great. Gary
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