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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    A leak down test may tell you something. If it was mine & I had motor out, I would replace them both since one looks bad. All it is at this point is another head gasket & o-rings for the bypass joint. Maybe a valve cover also. You'll feel a lot better if you do both. Thread linked below shows how to get water joints out easier. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73268 Gary
  2. dingy
    If anyone is interested in a VMax final drive for $130 & shipping, PM me. One of my keyboard friends on VMax site has 2 of them. Guy is one of regulars there, so I would trust him myself. I would only serve to hook you two up, prefer not to have to handle it. Gary
  3. dingy

    Way off topic

    dingy replied to Bubber's topic in Watering Hole

    3M makes a tape that provides an extremely strong bond. I'm not sure how it would do on the wood though. If wood had a good finish it would possibly work. Gary http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-Industrial/Adhesives/Product/Bonding-Tapes/VHB-Tape/
  4. dingy
    Does it look like this would work? This line is from the rear shock on a 1st gen without a air compressor. Overall length is 9" Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/rearshockairline.jpg
  5. dingy
    They are different electrically also. Pictures attached of wiring. 1st is MKI, 2nd is MKII. I have one from an 85 I just parted out, make me an offer. Gary
  6. dingy
    Black rectangular box above headlight mounting brackets. Gary
  7. dingy
    Start button would be a prime suspect. There are 2 contacts in it, one of them opens the headlight & dashlight power feed to allow more current to the starter. EDIT Never mind, I missed that headlight was working. Headlight & dash lights are on same fuse. Maybe the illumination controller didn't like the LED's, it has some electronic components in it. Reserve Lighting unit could have went bad. Gary
  8. dingy
    What is LED source & part #'s ? Gary
  9. dingy
    Attached are a couple of pictures looking into the port with the plug removed. The hole that is seen in 1st picture is in he plastic joint. 2nd picture shows a screwdriver in hole, then I tap against side of screwdriver to get joint loose. Last picture is removed joint laying on top of head. Cam chain isn't seen, I slid it back into head to get a few pictures. This motor was in rough shape, usually they look better than this one. Gary
  10. dingy
    I find that tiny little ding comment to be a form of sexual harassment. Not to mention TMI !! Gary
  11. dingy
    There is a small tube inside the twinkie that passes oil under pressure to the heads and to the cam bearings. I would recommend you replace these 2 orings at least. They are odd ball square cut o-rings that you probably won't find at a hardware store. The large gasket between the twinkie & block should probably be replaced. The one between the 2 halfs of the twinkie may be ok if you haven't split twinkie in halfs. The copper crush washers are to replace the ones on the metal oil tube splitter to the heads. twinkie gasket lower - 26H-12427-00-00 (radiator hose tab) twinkie gasket upper - 26H-12428-00-00 (radiator hose tab) bypass tube o-rings (2) - 93210-06667-00 (oil filter tab) large copper crush washer (2) - 90201-10128-00 (oil filter tab) small copper crush washer (4) - 90201-08087-00 (oil filter tab) Gary
  12. dingy
    In the second picture above, there is a plug in the head directly over the water joint. If you remove this plug, you will then see the plastic water plug in the hole. There is a small hole in the water joint that a small round tool can be inserted into. This will allow the water joint to be worked out without destroying it. I have done this now on several motors succesfully. Bad part is, I don't know if it can be done with motor in frame. Gary
  13. dingy
    That may not be the correct part #'s I posted, I just saw you posted in 2nd gen tech. Numbers I gave are for a 1st gen. Look at thread below to help show what bike you have in your posts. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58880 Gary
  14. dingy
    Frank is correct on water pump, it would be dripping, my bad !! Gary
  15. dingy
    Could be anyone of three. Head gasket will probably give you a lot of foaming in oil due to pressure of blowby. Water pump carbide seal may have failed if motor was over heated and cold water added and contacted hot seal seat causing fracture. The head bypass joints would be a low failure point in my opinion, they are a fairly robust design. Could also be an o-ring failure in the 'Twinkie" between the front & rear cylinders at the crankcase. Gary
  16. dingy
    26H-12446-00-00 - Joint $30.46 on partshark.com in water pump tab, item #21 Gary
  17. dingy
    Look at partshark.com or similar under Crankcase cover tab 3JP-15461-01-00 is middle drive cover gasket 90430-06014-00 is a copper washer on bottom of middle drive gear cover Gary
  18. dingy
    I pulled apart an 85 1200 donor motor this weekend and found a different looking set of clutch friction plates in it. Anyone seen these before? The friction pads are smaller than a stock set. I don't really think these will be good in a modified motor. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/IMG_3129.jpg
  19. dingy
    According to the owners manual, the battery warning is only tied to the fluid level in the battery. If you are seeing the battery icon displayed, your repair may need repaired. Picture of monitor attached, battery is center row top. Gary
  20. dingy
    The pickup coils may be a more likely suspect. I would say you are better off with a new Czech TCI than investing in a used one. The drop out problems seem to be at a low level with not using the TPS settings on the Czech units. Gary
  21. dingy
    That little bit of advice is exactly why I am riding a 1st gen, it does bring back a painful memory. Old man was a pro racer & one of the things he oft told me was if the front end goes into a wobble, crank on the power & it will straighten out. One fall afternoon we were out riding, dad was pulling away on his new 750 honda I was next on a 350 honda with a fork mounted fairing and brother & his friend behind. I took off after the old man & went over a hump in road that pulled the front up a little. Bike started wobbling slightly due to air catching the fork mounted fairing and pushing it. So heeding the words of wisdom, I gave that little 350 all it had and hung on, just knowing it would smooth out very soon. But the wooble did not improve, it got worse, but the old man said give it power and I did. When bike finally came out from under me, it left 3 tire marks on the road about 30 degrees from center for 1st other way for 2nd and back for 3rd one. Bike went down fairly hard a caught my leg under it but didn't break it. Learned this after trip to ER and rather than xray leg, doctor told me to get up on it, which I painfully did and he said it was fine. Old man did mention on way to hospital about difference between wind & wheel wobble at least. It was interesting how close we were to house when this happened also, dad went and got car while my brother got me out of ditch. And that is why I despise fork mounted fairing bikes. Gary
  22. dingy
    Looking at parts fiche, the 1st gen number for the stator changed in 1990. It also changed slightly in 1986, they only changed a rev #, not the main designator that year. Somewhat surprisingly, the stator housing # is the same for all 1st gens. I would have thought it changed when Yamaha went to the single pickup coil. 2nd gen also has a new part number for stator in 99. I have an extra stator from my 1200 motor, that I replaced when I had an opportunity to get a high output stator for it. It was working fine when pulled it. Gary
  23. dingy

    EBAY search

    dingy replied to Trader's topic in Watering Hole

    The search string he is using is similar as mine, it serves to remove all the unwanted snowmobile and 2nd gen listings. I have separate strings for VMax searchs. You can save this search in ebay and recall it from My Ebay tab. Each one of the words in the search string with a minus sign in front eliminates a listing with that term in title. The string below gives 19591 hits Yamaha Venture The string below gives 8973 hits yamaha venture -gt -700 -1999 -2000 -2001 -2002 -2003 -2004 -2005 -2006 -2007 -2008 -2009 -rsv -600 -snow -star -enticer -blaster -600cc -480cc -wave -viper -vector -xenon -phazer -mountain -exciter -snow* -srx -venom -vt600 -vt480 -vt700 -sxr -carbide The string below gives 226 hits, I have added clutch as third included parameter yamaha venture clutch -gt -700 -1999 -2000 -2001 -2002 -2003 -2004 -2005 -2006 -2007 -2008 -2009 -rsv -600 -snow -star -enticer -blaster -600cc -480cc -wave -viper -vector -xenon -phazer -mountain -exciter -snow* -srx -venom -vt600 -vt480 -vt700 -sxr -carbide The string below gives 31 hits, I have added clutch cover as third & fourth included parameter yamaha venture clutch -gt -700 -1999 -2000 -2001 -2002 -2003 -2004 -2005 -2006 -2007 -2008 -2009 -rsv -600 -snow -star -enticer -blaster -600cc -480cc -wave -viper -vector -xenon -phazer -mountain -exciter -snow* -srx -venom -vt600 -vt480 -vt700 -sxr -carbide Gary
  24. dingy
    Do you need complete set or just lower outer tubes? I have a set of lowers I could part with if I do something a little different for my project. Gary
  25. dingy
    Hidden in a box of parts appears to be a pair of drivers backrest mounts for an MKI bike. Not sure, but may be worth checking out if you are in need of a set. http://www.ebay.com/itm/83-Yamaha-Venture-Royale-XVZ-1200-Box-of-Parts-C6-/400308631506?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d3440f7d2&vxp=mtr Gary
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