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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. Many of us have had less than satisfactory results using aftermarket fork seals. There are probably many that they have worked fine for as well. The issue seems to be that the aftermarket ones are just a little bit thicker. This severely complicates getting the upper washer & wire retainer properly seated. On the bright side, when you have to soon replace the low cost aftermarket seals, the replacement procedure will be fresh in your mind, and will go a lot easier the second time. Your mileage may vary. Gary
  2. Based on this experience I might like to design a set with a cross connected channel between AD ports. May be able to use a set screw to restrict the channel and provide an alternate way of adjusting fork reaction. Probable could be done in 3/4" or less thickness. I have the block off plates already modeled in CAD, I worked with Earl on getting drawings for his. Gary
  3. Earl (Skydoc-17) already sells block off plates, they are listed in classifieds. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3777&title=first-genmki-vr-anti-dive-s-sblock-off-plates-21&cat=22 http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3776&title=first-genmkii-vr-s-santi-dive-block-off-plates-21&cat=22 Gary
  4. Just a side note on the projector light setup. I have the same set of H9 bulbs in it that came with light set. 3 years on a set of high intensity bulbs seems good to me. I carry a spare one on bike, but haven't needed it yet. Gary
  5. Another issue that exists with the pads not fully contacting the rotor is the will touch each other at some point. As the pad wears away about a 1/4 of the way down, the unworn part on each side is now progressing towards the other pad, which is also not wearing down at the top. When they touch above the mid-line of the rotor they will very rapidly decrease in effectiveness. Gary
  6. Attached is a Dyno curve for RWHP only that was done on my almost stock 83. Only thing I think it had was a K&N filter and maybe drilled out slightly last baffle in exhaust. 81.65 hp. Tweety is now putting out a little more with a 1300, but it isn't an apples to apples comparison. 109.4 hp. Gary
  7. By reducing the level of the oil in the fork tube, the amount of the air pocket is increased by same amount. As the fork is collapsed when hitting a bump, outer tube is forced upwards over the iner tube. This causes the air that is contained above the fork oil level to be compressed to allow for the now reduced volume. As a given volume of air is compressed, its PSI increases. If the oil level is an inch or two lower in the fork tubes, the air volume above the oil is increased in its volume. The same amount of fork travel will then causes the pressure increase in the fork tube to be less due to larger initial air volume. With less air pressure in tubes, there will be more of a cushioning effect of the bump being hit. The progresive shocks show only a MAX. level in the instructions, it also seems implied in their instructions that a somewhat lower level may be acceptable. My disclaimer on this is it's only an opinion. Gary
  8. Shipped set of AD valves today. New orings in package. Mounting screws & clips in there also. Gary
  9. Look at thread linked next. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=515 Look at picture with caption 'KEEP IN MIND THAT YOU PUT THIS WASHER BACK IN THE RIGHT ORDER WHEN PUTTING BACK TOGETHER!' It is very important the thick washer is in correct position, or the brake arm will be out of alignment and bind up. This write up is for an RSV, but the 85 is same in regards to washer position. Gary
  10. It was sort of a shock to hear about Larry. I had just called him last Monday to see if he could help me getting some parts from Canada. Talked to Joyce a little as Larry can't hear well on the phone. Then spent half an hour with him and bongobobny in the chat room getting a plan together for my parts. It was just something that usually doesn't stick in my mind much, but I have thought about how fragile we all are when we are out riding. I hope he recovers and is able to continue on, and thankful Joyce was not with him on this ride. Gary
  11. I believe the 'ray-gun' you refer to is actually one of the six drive motors. There are 2 visible on the rear wheel and one on more on left of front wheel. Wonder what recommended air pressure will be. Seems like it would need rather solid wheels for the drive motors to engage firmly. One of our company motto's at Emerson is 'Its never been done before' sometimes the reply is that there is probably a reason its never been done before. Gary
  12. The use of a dime will get you back on the road, but it can cause the side cover plate to snap in two if the screw is tightened up to far. I did this years ago, but I was using a small washer instead of a dime and snapped a cover plate. After that I got some thinner nylon washers to use. Gary
  13. Not sure on this, but I think answer is no. Reason I say this is that I put a VMax front rim on Tweety and I had to shim each side by a total of .600" to center rim in Venture forks. This tells me that the VMax fork tubes are closer together on center line than a Ventures. This would then prevent a Venture brace from fitting. Attached is a picture of rim on speedometer drive side. I had to McGyver an extension up to lock the speedometer gear into the fork tube due to width difference. Gap seen is with rim centered in tubes. 2nd picture is what extension ended up looking like. Gary
  14. That is an interesting solution to the moulting of the servo motor & control issues. Some of the VMax guys have eliminated the center butterflies & tie the front & rear intake manifolds together with a straight tube. Commonly referred to as a Stage 7. Send me a price for the center butterflies. Gary
  15. Get a hold of bongobobny about the vboost. I think he is looking for one. I do need part of a vboost, the butterflies manifolds, but I can get that on VMax site. Bob would probably want complete vboost. Gary
  16. Look at 20th post in thread linked below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=73597 Dmnordin is parting out his 83. Gary
  17. Wonder whats up with the old man from WV? He posted a plea for help, and 24 hours later hasn't been back on the sight. Hope he didn't give this online company his credit card number, various personal information and other forms of ID. Oh wait, Dan would never do that again after the garage fiasco that lasted for near a 1000 post thread where he paid upfront to a guy with a sign taped to a 74 chevy pickup. Maybe Warden yanked his internet privileges for asking for the credit card to order that muffler bearing grease. She is called the Warden for a reason. Dan maybe like that etrade commercial where the baby got sent for a time out to his crib with no computer or smart phone. Something about riding the dog like a pony. Gary
  18. The lower fork tubes and some of the anti dive internal parts are different. 86~87 the AD valve was on front of tube & 88~93 it was on side. There are some very minor wiring differences between the two years. One was the 86~87 had noise filter chokes in the front & rear brake switch circuits. And I think the trunk mirror light was added in 88, not positive though. Gary
  19. Agree with what your saying Carl, but if brake fluid was tried & stiff, I don't think fork oil will be any better. Brake fluid is rather 'watery", non technical term, thin, low viscosity. Still don't think it's the block off plates, but not as sure as I was. I have them on with progressives & forks are fine. Gary
  20. Fender mounts are very different on a VMax. Gary
  21. Condor was making & selling them. Very good product. Gary
  22. I talked to Yammer, he is looking for muffler bearing grease. Gary
  23. I just posted some technical training manuals I came across and one of the topics covered in there is the Anti dive system. I have attached that section to this post also. This has helped with my understanding of this system and a reassessment of my statement that the block off plates would not cause your problem. As something to try, I would now suggest you reinstall the AD valves and see if that changes your situation. Gary
  24. Attached are PDF scans of a 1986 Venture Service Guide for Technical Training. I got a copy of this on Ebay. A lot of info on the Anti Dives, CB radio, Cruise Control There are quite a few interesting tidbits in the information contained in this material. I broke the scans up by sections so I could get them uploaded. Same format as the 1987 Venture Service Handbook for Technical Training I loaded a few months ago. Link to that thread next. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ad.php?t=71406 Gary
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