jilldwr

My thoughts exactly, I'd like to remove the antenna, and the unit, I've never used it. So, I'll just unplug it at the radio, under the front fairing, and remove the CB (under the trunk) and the whip. No impact on the stereo if I do this. Great, Thanks for the info.

I want to disconnect the CB radio and remove it from the bike. Would the Radio still function correctly if I do this? Has anyone else removed their CB's and what affect did it have on the remaining system?

Last year we had a freakish warm day on Dec 5th here. I called in and rode all day. The latest I'd ever been riding. Hopefully, this year we see a couple days like that one. I'll put the bike away after I see snow on the ground...

My bike came used with the front fender rail and rear trunk rail. The chrome is very robust on this, I can't see Kuryakin being any better than this, maybe cheaper, not better. The rear trunk rail is something I've never used, even when travelling. It looks smart enough, the chrome is nice but I'm sure Star or Kuryakin, they would both probably look the same quality. I guess I'm saying your gonna have to compare items and decide for yourself. I'll tell you one piece of OEM kit you should invest in: http://www.starriderz.com/Tinted-Lower-Wind-Vents/ These are really usefull, keep your legs cool on hot days, dryer on wet and warmer on cold days. Very functional and the OEM units are a custom fit right into your existing lower fairings. I've had mine installed all this season with no issues at all. The price on the other hand...!

I had posted this link a few years ago: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65701&highlight=jilldwr Since then (last spring), I found several major cracks on the floor of my 1999 RSV trunk - a known weak spot. I followed the advice in this video and welded the bottom back together with zip ties and copper wire for support. It has worked very well for me. No signs of weakening and the paint has no cracks either. I bought a soldering iron used for stained glass making, about 35 watts I believe , and it did quick work of the welding. I placed copper wire on the weak spots and pressed the soldering iron on the wire and watched it dissappear into the plastic. Upon reassembly, I used some aluminum plates sandwiching the trunk mounting points supporting them. In November of 2011, I had a large split crack in my lower left fairing. I applied the same process of imbedding a copper wire and building up with melted zip ties. I them sanded and repainted with base coat, clear coat. It looks brand new and has not cracked in the same place again. Hope this helps...

I've used the POR-15 fuel tank coating and POR-15 "Black Velvet" heat paint products on vintage bikes and they worked exactly as described. Preparation is important though.

Hmm, I'm tempted to try the R6 rotors as well. I've got all the other parts ready to go, might as well do the rotors too. Well, off to Fleabay... EDIT: Oh, Shoot, I just realized how old this thread is, DOH!

Thanks for that, Reddevilmedic, That "Convert your Vmax Carbs to Fuel Injection Throttle Bodies" bit at the end looks VERY tempting...

I Too had this problem in the spring, I tightenned the steering head bearings as per the instructions in the tech section and it went away. I just noticed last weekend that its starting to come back so I'll need to redo the tightening or replace the bearings over the winter.

I had this same problem last summer. Everytime I leaned into a slow turn at 70mph I could hear a humming noise as if the wheel bearings were shot. It got louder the further I leaned it as well. I was running fairly new Metzler 880's so I ruled them out. I replaced the wheel bearings on my 50k bike thinking this was a permanent fix. Not So! It sounded and behaved exactly as before. I'm not one to wast perfectly good tires just because they sing to me when I lean. So I've been riding them till I get my moneys worth, which is very soon. I'd like to put Commander 2's on but they don't make a 150/80-16 for the front, so I though I'd check here to see what you all are doing. It didn't occur to me to use a narrower front tire. Just checked out their site, I guess they only make the 130/90 in the 16 inch rim. Anyone see any issues switching the 150/80-16 for this size? D.W.

My Bad! I forgot all about the switch in the side stand. Once I lifted it everything ran as it should. Thanks so much for your help. D.W.

I could feel my clutch plates slipping when I twisted hard on the throttle, so I bought Skydocs upgrade kit as well as the replacement discs. It was such a nice snowy day here today, I decided to do the install. Followed the directions to the letter and thought it went pretty well. I put the bike up on the center stand, started it in neutral and tried shifting into 1st gear (with the wheel off the ground). Well, the engine just died. So, I figured the clutch lever isn't disengaging the pressure plate so I took the cover off again and tried the clutch lever. It's definitely disengaging the pressure plate, the friction discs are loose when engaged. When removing the old plates, I removed the wire and half disc as well, replacing with skydocs full disc upgrade. I also made sure to align the friction discs with the two punch marks on the outer basket. I then aligned the pressure plate with the punch mark on the inner basket. Just to be sure, I drained and replaced the clutch fluid, though it appears to be functioning normal. When I had the clutch basket apart, I spun the inner basket to better access & remove the little spacer in deep, would this have thrown the gearing off? I've obviously done something wrong, anyone have any ideas? Cheers, D.W.

Someting to be said for a manual written by an American for an American in American english! I can appreciate that. And the bikes are well built too ( even though I don't have one!).

I had posted this link a few years ago: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65701&highlight=jilldwr Since then (last spring), I found several major cracks on the floor of my 1999 RSV trunk - a known weak spot. I followed the advice in this video and welded the bottom back together with zip ties and copper wire for support. It has worked very well for me. No signs of weakening and the paint has no cracks either. I bought a soldering iron used for stained glass making, about 35 watts I believe , and it did quick work of the welding. I placed copper wire on the weak spots and pressed the soldering iron on the wire and watched it dissappear into the plastic. In November of 2011, I had a large split crack in my lower left fairing. I applied the same process of imbedding a copper wire and building up with melted zip ties. I them sanded and repainted with base coat, clear coat. It looks brand new and has not cracked in the same place again. Hope this helps...

Thanks for the O-ring tip. I've got all the other parts but for some reason didn't order the o-rings. I think I'll head up to Napa once I've got the old ones out to match them up. I think I'll take lots of pics too and do a "how to" for future reference. I'm surprised there isn't one already here. Cheers, D.W.