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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    I received it. Gary
  2. dingy
    Was taking flywheel off, I had a bar holding clutch and it slipped off, crank rotated and cam chain caught on something & snapped one of the teeth of cam sprocket on crank. I took the motor apart in odd sequence, I was only going to do some head work, then decided to have machine work done to block. I had another crank, but got all new bearings for it. About $150. Bearings are specific to each block/rod/balancer/crank combination. Not doing that again. Gary
  3. dingy
    I got a neat clutch tool from ebay today. It locks inner and outer clutch hub/basket together when working on motor. Nice heavy tool made by EBC. Ebay sellers name is worldwide_motorcycle_equipment. Current auction at http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=310498062254 Few pictures attached. I destroyed a crankshaft last winter when removing flywheel, wouldn't have happened if I had this. About $32 with shipping. I got it in 4 days priority mail. Gary
  4. dingy
    It looks like I will have enough interest in this to make it happen, so I am committing to it. Price is $255 for TCI, adapter cable, new vacuum sensor wired into module & vacuum line, good quality marine grade velcro to attach TCI to bike, cable ties, alcohol wipes (for velcro), small tube of dielectric grease for connectors. CD with info I have collected about this unit, includes instructions, (please read instructions first - I won't tell). I attached instructions from last buy to this post. This time I am going to include a connector to replace the one on the pickup coils to harness connection, this would be optional for member to install though. Not going to include the connectors from the TCI adapter cable to wiring harness that I put in before because I don't think anyone used them (these 2 were to replace bike harness ends). I will have a few from before if the are wanted I can supply, under $5. If you are thinking about doing any programming changes to the TCI, a USB to Com port cable is needed to hookup to a laptop. Link below is to one I will get for those that want one. Cost is $15.00, which is what they cost me. http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=690719&csid=_61 Last charge is $8.00 if you are going to use paypal to pay me, this is to offset my fees. NO GIFT PAYMENTS, I don't want paypal getting upset with me. Recap: $255 for TCI & related. (Includes US insured priority shipping, contact me about other locations) $15 for adapter cable (optional) $8 if paying with paypal. PM or email me for paypal ID or any questions. See 1st post at bottom regarding vacuum sensor change. Gary
  5. dingy

    Bad boy horn

    dingy replied to a topic in Watering Hole

    3 pictures of a pair of air horns mounted on a 1st gen. They are on a set of aftermarket fog light mounts that show up sometimes on ebay. I think MiCarl also has duals on his. These are able to be heard well, and they are slightly different tones. Gary
  6. dingy
    Attached picture is a $40 walmart radio that has usb & sd card slot, no cd. I can put about 500 songs on an sd chip, beats the heck out of a cd with 10 songs on it. It has gotten wet a few times and works. I have a cover I can put on it when I park it at work if it is going to rain. Its been in the bike 2 or 3 years and works fine. This radio cover is a stock unit that had a factory radio in it. I made a plug out of plexiglass & mounted this one. All you need from wiring is the 2 speaker pairs and the radio hot and back up lines. Plus the antenna lead. Gary
  7. dingy
    I have a coupon that is good until 12/7 for $299 from Harbor. Wife said it can be my Christmas present. Been looking at how you put a power operated setup on on. I have found a bottle jack that will do 20 tons with an air assist that may do it. Seems like a lot, but the force to start lifting the bike when the lift is all the way down is high. My cousin has one that has an air lift on it. One site I read said it took about 50 pumps of the foot pedal to lift a bike up. Gary
  8. dingy
    Any PayPal payment for full amount is $8.00. I don't want to get PayPal irritated at me for accepting gifts for this. Gary
  9. dingy
    I need to order at least 10 units to make it reasonable for me to do this. So it is something I don't want to do for just a few units. There is a fair amount of work getting one of these buys together. I am getting parts from 4 vendors coordinated, preparing the units, shipping, keeping track of money in & out, burning CD's, etc. They can be purchased direct from Ignitech, but this would be the TCI & adapter cable only. Gary
  10. dingy
    I would like to get them ordered by the middle of next week, around 15th. It will take 2 to 3 weeks to get them, at least. Gary
  11. dingy
    I have a few members interested in getting an Ignitech 1st gen TCI. Main thread on this aftermarket TCI is located at link below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40414 There was an issue with the prior group of TCI's to be upfront on this. There were a few members that experienced brief ignition cutouts in 3k to 4k range. This seems to have been mostly resolved by using a programing option with the TCI. 90~93 single pickup coil bikes did not report this issue. These TCI's are as close to plug& play as I can get. All that is needed is to unplug 2 cables from stock TCI & plug into adapter cable. Unhook stock vacuum sensor hose from #2 carb & hook in new vacuum tube for new sensor. TCI will work on 1983 thru 1993 Ventures & 1985 thru 2007 VMaxs. I need to know what year bike that the TCI is being used on to get correct adapter & matching program in TCI. TCI cost is $255.00 USD, this includes TCI, adapter wiring harness, new vacuum sensor, instructions & units preprogrammed by me better than what they are from Ignitech. Also includes priority shipping to US address. Paypal payment is $8.00 extra. I would rather not get paid for these as a gift to avoid paypal fees. International shipments will be charged extra cost over US priority fee of $10.50. Shipments will be insured. $5.00 increase over last time to cover insurance. Ignitech warranties TCI for 1 year. I will assist anyone with a return issue. I am only assisting in members acquiring these units. 11/10/12 - Lowered price $5.00 because I can not get the smaller vacuum sensor I was going to get to work. I will use same one as last 40 units, just a little larger physical size. I will refund $5.00 to those that have paid me already. Gary
  12. dingy
    The bypass valve wording is rotated to the 5:00 o'clock position when it is turned to normal flow. Don't ask me why Yammy decided on this orientation. You should feel the ball detent drop into the hole when it is a correct alignment. Gary
  13. dingy

    interesting?

    dingy replied to oldgoat's topic in Watering Hole

    I am using an RSV to start on mine, think of all the dead weight that is there. None going in dumpster though, I only got stuff I was going to use. Thanks to Wrenchrob, Wizard765, Bongobobny, Dragonrider, Skydoc & Dano for help so far. It may be a quick RSV when I get done, who would have thought that possible ? Gary
  14. dingy

    interesting?

    dingy replied to oldgoat's topic in Watering Hole

    Probably not that all different from where my winter project may end up. Better seat on mine i hope, bigger fenders. I do like the reduced plastic & minimal lighting & instrumentation look. Attached couple of pictures of ebay listing. Gary
  15. dingy
    You really don't need to pull gas tank, this is getting way involved with top of bike to work on bottom of bike. To get collector back on, the rear down pipes can be slightly loosened on the heads. This can be done by pulling side covers off. The collector will slip on rear down tubes then over the insert the 2 cap screws that hold the collector on to block. Last thing will be front pipes. Picture shows my 1300 block upside down, view is from the rear. There are 2 bosses on flat part of case just behind oil pan opening, this is where collector screws go into block. A mirror is very helpful to locate them, they are in a hateful place to feel around for. Gary
  16. dingy
    Not that the actual date this picture was taken makes any difference to the commitment from these men, it was actually taken on Sept 18 2012. It was listed as one of the top 10 pictures that were not accurate as to issues people had with Sandy hurricane. http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/25447106_rRDwDr/2095607412_89XQw3D#!i=2095607412&k=89XQw3D Gary
  17. dingy
    Just replied to it !!!! Thanks Lewis. I will see if I can find some stuff to put up for a St. Jude auction also. Gary
  18. dingy
    I may see if there is enough interest after holidays are over. Would be completed while riding season is hibernating for us northerners. I need to get another one for the project bike. I have had several people say they were interested. I have found a 1/2 bar sensor that is much more compact than previous ones I got. Since it is a 1/2 bar, the response would be better than the 1 bar GM sensor. Gary
  19. dingy
    A few pictures attached that may help you with starter shopping. 1st one shows housing of a 2 & 4 brush starter. Lower case does not have the 4 screws at the mid line around the outside. The 4 brush starters have the coils epoxied in. On a 2 brush starter, 4 screws go thru case and hold coils in place. Only one is visible on upper starter, right in middle. This is for stock starters. I am not sure about aftermarket ones. 2 brush & 4 brush starter plates shown 2nd & 3rd pictures. 4th picture shows difference between 4 gauge, fine strand welding cable & a stock 8 gauge cable. Copper on welding cable is larger dia. than overall 8 gauge cable. I didn't nick wires, came from McMaster like that. Lat picture shows starter on motor in frame. Not real easy to get to. Link below to mod for starter ground path, which is what doomed the 2 brush starter. 4 brush has same design flaw, but doesn't seem to manifest it as bad as 2 brush. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46890 Next is link link to what's inside a starter solenoid if you are interested. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64567 Gary
  20. dingy
    Have most of it. Since you have better dash, benifits of changing wiring harness are a toss up. But there are a number of new wires for cruise. But they should all be short runs in headlight bucket. Gary
  21. dingy
    Do you have an indicator on cluster that shows what gear you are in? If so you have the better dash. The wiring harness is quite different with the better dash. Not sure what years had just the plain dash, may have just been 1983. Gary
  22. dingy

    Engineers

    dingy replied to Gary N.'s topic in Watering Hole

    I have worked on civil side some, but mostly on mechanical side. Hated civil side in general. Mechanical side I can have much more control over design with proper tolerancing. I work in R&D now, it's fun to take something from a blank sheet of paper to a sellable product. I am on a couple of patents, which company owns but I get a bonus for. I work in a different division than the group picture relates to. We do wireless sensors and other electrical controls. I do the housing & some tooling design. Most everything I work on can be held in your hand for size relation. Gary
  23. dingy
    Is it the two button unit? Has a couple of rocker switches? If it is I have an extra. Gary
  24. dingy
    The pull cables will be the ones to go. Either top or bottom I have seen frayed. The return cables don't have much stress. Gary
  25. dingy
    I have most of what you need. Do you have the standard dash or the on with buttons at bottom with gear indicator? I have a couple of 'Royale' iinstrument clusters. Would be a good time to get that if you don't have it in. It would require the wiring harness. Pod over ignition switch & short cable to harness. Right hand control, buttons are faded vacuum pump control box Wiring harness from an 86, you don't have to have this since you already have cruise though. Your vacuum actuator will work OK. Gary
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