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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Take a look at the bottom of the Watering Hole forum page. 571 replies to the poll. Total of 70% of the respondents from this site are 51 years or older. It is understandable that the vast majority is interested in a comfortable cruiser. I will not include myself or Yammer Dan in that group. The thrill of a brisk ride is still enjoyable to us. Gary
  2. dingy
    One of the more knowledgeable Vmax guys pointed out that the outer 'L' shaped pocket can be drained by removing the lower middle drive cover bolt, one with copper crush washer on it. These two pockets probably contain a half quart of oil combined, this is old oil that is being mixed with the fresh oil at each change if these pockets are not drained. Gary
  3. dingy
    While cleaning block up today, I took some pictures of the 2nd drain plug on the 1st gen blocks. I Don't know if the 2nd gens have a similar 'feature'. On the left side, directly under the middle drive cover there is a 14mm head bolt that goes into block and drains an oil pocket. This pocket appears to serve as a lubrication pool for the middle drive gear. Not very big, maybe about the size of a milk container that I remember from school, half pint I think. This pocket is isolated from draining, so a normal oil change will not drain this oil. Curiously, there is another pocket that is isolated that lays outside of the pocket that has the drain screw It is an 'L' shaped pocket that is below & to the right in the 1st picture. No drain provision for this area though. It would be nice to know what the design intent was for the 2nd outer pocket, and why it is not can't be drained. Gary
  4. dingy
    My bad, didn't think you would need to pull cover. Gary
  5. dingy
    The picture I think you are referring to in the 11th post has more than just the front pipes removed. That is not much more than the motor setting in the frame at this point. The lower crossbar is not on, two bolts each side into frame on each side, lower right corner of picture for left side of frame. Thermostat housing & piping not there. One long bolt across upper motor mount, tube is not in place between mounts. Attached picture is what you are going to see for the most part. Heavier cable on this starter and spin on oil filter. Exhaust down tubes are on outside, right & left of picture. Thermostat housing on left side (red), coolant bypass valve dead center. Hose from radiator top center. Thermostat housing retaining allen head screws can be a PIA to get off, treat them nicely, not a place you want to struggling with a stripped head or snapped bolt. These two allen head screws are seen in picture on housing, just above the bypass valve tube. It sounds like Micarl had the stator cover off. I don't think this is required to do. It would make starter easier to remove from block, there is an O-ring on neck of starter that seals where it penetrates block. Removing stator cover would enable tapping against starter gear to push it out. Pulling stator cover requires middle drive cover to be removed also, lots of gasket surface cleaning. I would not remove it until you decide you can't free starter from block. Two gaskets you would need for side covers are about $10, having them on hand would be prudent though. Gary
  6. dingy
    Little more than a weekend project, but when its done this will be more better. Gary
  7. dingy
    For reference hose #3 is from lower radiator to plastic cover on thermostat housing. I will PM one of our crack moderators and see if they will put this in 1st gen tech section. Gary
  8. dingy
    Maybe .01mm increments ???? .001mm is .000394" which is well below the ability to check with standard feeler gauges. Gary
  9. dingy
    Wow, we're swapping packages tomorrow !! Kinda makes you feel warm & tingly inside don't it !! Thanks, Gary
  10. dingy
    No, it's the one on bottom, under starter, that has the bypass valve in it. Tube passes to left side of bike, where a rubber hose connects and runs up frame member and hooks into radiator on top left. Gary
  11. dingy
    I need the metal tube from the thermostat housing that has the bypass valve in it. The interface on the RSV/Hybrid 1st gen motor to 2nd gen cooling system is in the MvGyvering process. I am going to keep both the 1st gen & RSV thermostat housings on bike, but only have a thermostat in RSV housing. I need to do this to get the water pump hooked up to the lower radiator outlet. Plumbing is different between the two. Where the line enters the water pump is not going to accept the RSV water line, so I have to use the plastic elbow from a 1st gen, which is locked in place by the thermostat housing. This tube will be cut off between the selector valve & the thermostat housing and brazed shut. I need to do this to block off this port on the 1st gen thermostat housing. Out of all the parts I have, I can't find this one. Gary
  12. dingy
    I have the Auto darkening helmet from them & it works great. Used the 2 piece HLVP set when I painted Bike & it worked nice. Gary
  13. dingy
    A few pictures showing RSV Hybrib project. Nothing major appearance wise has been done, just a lot of the minor, time consuming things that have to be done. Fair amount of McGyvering type things. One of my major obstacles to getting the 1st gen motor in frame, has been addressed, at least partially. The front motor mount sub frame on the RSV is quite different than what is on a 1st gen. The 1st gen has the forward exhaust tubes down between the front wishbone structure on the frame, whereas the RSV sweeps them outboard near the upper motor mounts. There are 2 cross members on the RSV motor mount sub frame that were directly in the way of the exhaust tube path. I picked up a spare motor mount sub frame I could experiment on and ended up removing both cross tubes to get sub frame in place. Frame is setting on temporary stand a made to support bike and I can't put actual exhaust down tubes on it until I am at a point were I can remove the temporary stand. When I do get down tubes on I will weld in replacement cross bracing on sub frame. I also plan on using a couple of 1st gen mount components that will cross link wishbone more ridgedly. I have the rear shock I got mounted on and the swing arm temporarily in place. This has brought to light another small issue. The V-Max final drive was an earlier version without the speed sensor boss on it. I won't be using speed sensor, but have found that this final drive is wider than an RSV version, so the rear axle does not protrude far enough through left side to get full engagement with nut. I have an RSV final drive coming that I will swap out gearing with to take care of this issue. Probably can sell this final drive with RSV gearing in it to one of the VMax guys. I have all the wiring connectors identified and labeled. I won't need all the circuitry that is on the RSV, not putting cruise on for sure. The TCI wiring will need reconfigured to hook up to an Ignitech TCI. RSV has different connectors than 1st gens and additional inputs that I don't need. Clutch/neutral cutout looks like it will need to be reconfigured a little. Motor is in cleaning up stage at this point. I am going to take upper case half to machine shop and have .040" milled off the head mounting surface to increase compression (same as Tweety). Rear fender has had the tabs removed from it that were under the passenger seat, which will not be on this bike. Not sure about front fender. Was going to use the RSV fender on the 1st gen forks, but that will require narrowing the RSV fender by almost 2". I can saw it down at work, and I have a friend checking with someone about re-welding it back together for me. I have the upper triple tree from the 1st gen modified to accept handlebar risers from the RSV. Front wheel picture shows Vmax front wheel , 282mm disc that was on Tweety at one time and a 6 caliper YFZ 750 caliper in place. May do this the 1st year, then put radial brakes on like Tweety has next year. I have an idea for the air intake system that will substantially reduce the complexity. The 1st gens are very touchy with the intakes being modified. When I put the VMax in Tweety, I found out that the airflow dynamics were much more tunable than a stock setup. My plan at this point is with the VMax configured motor going in this bike, to use two pod type filters coming out of the air box connections just above the carbs. It's a plan, and it may fail. Even though this is a Venture, it is a very different bike than the 1st gen. Figuring out what I can adapt to this is really fun for me, something I like to do. Oven in next to last picture is going to replace my smaller oven in garage that I use for powder coating. This is a full size, one I have now is a built in style and couple of inches narrower. With replacement unit, I can get motor block in oven and cure powder coating on block. Gary
  14. dingy
    This is my humble opinion on measuring the valve clearance, may not be the majorities opinion. I don't believe that you have to be at TDC to get an accurate measurement of clearances. As long as the cam lobe is pointed away from the valve shim, the measurement should be very close. The cams are a very high precision machined part. Once you roll the motor through the point of the lobe contacting the installed shim, lets say 15 degrees past, the clearance should remain constant until the cam is rotated enough for the lobe to again be close to re-engaging the installed shim on the opposite face, again 15 degrees prior to contact. Another engineering term for this is concentricity of the cam lobes radii to the cam bearing surface. This dimension will be a very close tolerance number. The cam lobe radii at the center, not at the lobe tip, are ground using center points that are on both ends of the cam. Also ground using the same points are the bearing surfaces. This should, in 'theory' maintain a close concentricity of these surfaces. What that means is, as the cam is rotated with the lobe not in contact with the shim, the distance should not vary significantly. I will put my flame suit on now. Gary
  15. dingy
    Larry, Where at & what time? I might come up. Gary
  16. dingy
    10mm x 1.25 x 16mm long I think. but it will be same thread as banjo bolt you pull out of hole, only shorter & fully threaded. Use a copper washer on this. McMaster has the copper sealing washers, $7.61 + shipping for 25 washers. Extremely fast shipping. http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3240/=kszdzi Gary
  17. dingy
    14mm master will work OK. On the rear master, I removed line going to front end and plugged this port. Also required is to open the proportioning valve on the rear master and remove the spring, cup and plunger. This provides a clear path for fluid to travel while not needing to change rear brake hose. Picture attached of gutted parts. Leave gutted proportioning valve on master cyl. As far as front hoses, my choice was to put a VMax splitter in, ebay has them often for $10 or less. I made a small offset bracket to lower splitter about 3/4" so upper hose length was close. Front brakes are a PIA to bleed when this is done for some people. Speed bleeders & a mighty vac will be your best friend. Also when you think you have tried everything to get them to bleed, take a zip tie and clamp the brake lever tight against throttle. Leave it like this overnight. Tap lines gently a few times to encourage very small bubbles to rise to top. Next day release pressure on handle, but don't pump yet. Crack upper banjo bolt at master cyl and gently press lever with rag underneath. This will get bubbles out that rose overnight. It works, Yammer Dan was the founder of this one.. All Hail Dan. Gary
  18. dingy
    Me too, I'm sorry for what ever I did, not really. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/sad-puppy.jpg Gary
  19. dingy
    http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/sticksstones.jpg
  20. dingy
    The linked brakes were standard on all 1st gen Ventures through out the production life of the bike, 1983-1993. The linked brakes connected the left front caliper to the rear brake master via a metering valve located near the key switch. On the rear master cylinder there is a proportioning valve in line to the rear caliper. The intent was to provide a 60/40 brake effort to the left front & rear rotor. The right front caliper was operated by the front master cylinder. Gary
  21. dingy

    Eagle swoops Kid

    dingy replied to TDunc's topic in Videos

    In the last part of the video linked in first post, during the slow motion portion, there is a shadow of the child. Not as pronounced as the bird's, but it is there, it even tracks the baby as it is dropped. Maybe this is an improved version. Gary
  22. dingy
    You would think they would be progressive wound, but look at attached picture of 1st gen springs. The one on the top is the progressive and it is straight wound. Bottom is a stock 1st gen spring. Gary
  23. dingy
    Are attached pictures of a stock RSV fork spring or an aftermarket? Gary
  24. dingy
    Attached is a picture of the page from the owners manual. It is right after the periodic maintenance & minor repair charts that detail the service intervals. There is a notation in the chart section on brakes to see this note. The manual I have has a publish date of April 2002, so it was probably for the 2003 model year. Gary
  25. dingy
    A random thought occured when I was looking through the RSV Periodic Maintenance & Repair section of owners manual & saw this, "Replace the brake and clutch hoses every four years or if cracked or damaged." How many people actually follow this recommendation? I looked up the cost of parts for an RSV and cost at dealer would be around $350 for parts only. Gary
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