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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Headlight bucket area. Does not go into TCI. They are in lower right corner of picture, still tucked inside bucket. Gary
  2. dingy
    I was seeing in 2v~4.v range I think on MAP. What I sent out was on 2nd group of V88's was 2.6 & 3.8. But this was on IAP setting @ 0kpa & 100kpa, so it is a reference only numbers. I have 3.2 & 4.2 in mine now on TPS with 1 bar sensor. But vacuum readings may be different due to mods. Millivolt readings would be way low, don't know what might cause that. Gary
  3. dingy
    I have a 15vdc power supply & an extra 20 pin connector that only has 12v+ & 12v- wired into it, that I use in house to program units. Once I get units programmed, I run the 4 pickup coils on my bike to verify. I can't bike test the single pickup units though. Not a lot of benefit if your only doing one though to have alternate power supply, for 20 of them it made it easier though. You can play with settings all you want with out TCI plugged in, then like Bkuhr said, take it out and load it on TCI in bike. And verify what you have tried. This is mainly for timing curves though. But you could save any number of differently named programs and see which one you like by road tests. Which is what would be great to get that multiple user feedback and get these units dialed in for the somewhat stock bikes. Very little of the experimenting I have done with mine will be an optimal setting for a stock bike due to power train mods I have made. I still need to get the TPS unit on my bike Bkuhr made up, promised him I would do it months ago and I haven't got it done yet, been a busy summer. I getter done Brian, seriously. Gary
  4. dingy
    What I have done to get the TPS setting is after it is all hooked up, then open TCI up in program mode on PC, go to the Miscellaneous screen. I have been using TPS setting in upper center of screen. If it is not already set to that, then enable TPS. You can click on the Set TPS 0% for low at idle & Set TPS 100% with throttle cracked open for high, these will get you close, but you must fine tune it. Each time you make a change, you must reprogram TCI for change to be effective. DO NOT REPROGRAM WITH MOTOR RUNNING. You can do high and low change each time between reprograms. Repeat TPS % readings above, note the idle % reading on lower left bar at idle. Then crack the throttle open a few times and note its highest reading, if still on scale. Then, if idle side of TPS % is reading in the graph, lower the setting in the upper green right block by .1 or .2 v lower. If cracking throttle is not going full scale raise the lower right green block by .1 or .2 volts. Then reprogram TCI and see what new readings are. This is a trial & error process. Once you reach the low set point, where TPS % is not showing on graph, very slightly crack throttle & see if it bumps up. You will see the graph fluctuating at idle, you are looking for a setting where it is not fluctuating. When you crack throttle open, the graph should go to just above 100%, hard to know when you are just above it, again, trial & error, if it is above it, back of .1V at a time until bar doesn't fill graph, then at that point, go back up .1v Clear as mud ain't it. Are you using the stock sensor or an aftermarket unit ? Gary
  5. dingy
    I got a copy of your picture via my email download to this thread which isn't showing up when I open thread. Not sure what happened there, but I reattached it below for others to see. It looks good. Did you clean the commutator before you put it back in, doesn't look real good in your picture. About 600 grit emery cloth. Deanmay's picture from previous thread attached in this post. Gary
  6. dingy
    The CMU will work just fine, but the wiring of the other two pigtail connectors on the dash will be slightly different due to your having the cruise indicator in the Tach. The one you linked to uses a different type of indicator setup for the cruise system. Gary
  7. dingy
    Thread linked below may help you. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68952 You should PM me or others if you have a direct question, lot of times I may not open an old thread like this one, and would have missed the help request. Gary
  8. dingy
    This thing looked a lot bigger this morning when it was flying at me. Stopped tonight & got a picture of it. Gary
  9. dingy
    Came around a curve on the way to work this morning, doing about 45, and saw some turkeys right on edge of road just ahead. A hen flew up and took a low trajectory right across in front of me, there was zero chance of missing it. Caught me right on the throttle side hand grip. Jerked the bar back hard & bike went into a tank slapper for about 10 occilations. Got it to settle down and kept bike upright. Bird did not survive, fingers are a little sore. I have turkey crap across the black tank cover, but no damage I could see to bike. Tweety 1, Turkey 0, we advance to the medal round... Gary
  10. dingy
    It has seemed to cure mine. Gary
  11. dingy
    Birthdays are good Dan, better than the alternative. Gary
  12. dingy
    Posting these for pmelah. He can fill in details. Gary
  13. dingy
    Not an RSTD expert by a long shot, but if is like a 1st gen or VMax the coolant flows through the heads. Picture attached is a half cleaned 97 VMax head. The long 8 obrourd holes are all coolant paths. Right side has been bead blasted, left is untouched. I think you have a head gasket problem. Anything where it shouldn't be in the radiator or the oil? Will look like foaming in oil. Radiator will have a dark colored slime at top. Gary
  14. dingy
    You are the closest person to me on this site that I know of. Was Freedird before I saw where you are located. I have a carbtune. Gary
  15. dingy

    trunk bracket

    dingy replied to Trader's topic in Watering Hole

    :goodpost::goodpost: Gary
  16. dingy

    Valve Tool Help

    dingy replied to djh3's topic in Watering Hole

    Attached is a copy of the drawing Jeff (flyingfool) posted for reference. He did make some of these, but I don't know what status is of his testing them. My thought is at a $55 price point, you are opening yourself up to a potential loss if tool doesn't perform as expected, meaning it breaks at stress points. Coupled with the fact they are on ebay now at about $56 with shipping, it's something I would walk away from. Gary
  17. dingy

    Valve Tool Help

    dingy replied to djh3's topic in Watering Hole

    Ponch made me up one a few years ago that was out of normal steel, a machinist at his work site did it, and it got chewed up right away when used. Aluminum would not last through 1 head IMHO. There is an extreme amount of pressure concentrated on the lifter buckets and the shoulder of the tool. Also very high stress points at the inner 2 hex corners. Gary
  18. dingy
    Actually, after rereading your post Jason, I think you will realize the crank is not directly connected to the clutch, thus having no impact on what ever clutch basket set is in block. Reason I am interested in getting a spare is I broke a tooth off the cam gears 2 winters ago, and realized that the 1200 & 1300 cranks are the same part number. One of my VMax contacts will regrind a crank to what is termed a Stroker. This entails turning the rod journals down in diameter a little on an off center axis. The top of the journal as it is facing the cylinder head at its closest point is kept fairly untouched. The journal has metal taken away primarily on the opposite side, in a circular cut of course. The rods are replaced with a set having a smaller crank bore. This causes the compression stroke (and exhaust) to keep the top deck height of the piston at the same distance from the head, so the valves don't crash into it. But on the down stroke, the piston will travel somewhat farther down into the bore of the cylinder. This allows for a higher CC rating and corresponding increase in the compression ratio. I have a double diaphragm clutch spring in this motor, which does not slip. Also is high clutch lever pull pressure, but the HP wizard giveth and also taketh away Just another wild ass idea I am considering. Gary
  19. dingy
    I might be interested in front forks, if you aren't using them. Gary
  20. dingy
    Also you can run the RPM's up in a lower gear and somewhat achieve similar results. Running it at 60 MPH in 3rd ain't gonna hurt it. Gary
  21. dingy
    Can you post a picture of what you have? Do you have a cruise control light in the tach? Is clock at bottom or top of CMU? I think all the ones with the clock at the bottom are interchangeable and all the ones with clock at top are interchangeable. But they will not swap from a top clock to a bottom clock or other way, without MAJOR wiring changes. It's not so much the clocks, that's just a way of distinguishing between the 2 styles. Gary
  22. dingy
    I got the rim & 99% brand new tire for $165 on ebay. Caliper, caliper bracket & torque arm was about $50. It takes welding a custom made tab on the swing arm & shortening & bending the stock torque arm. Not sure what I ended up using for brake hose, I think it was a stock Venture rear though. It will be changed to a S.S. this winter. Few of the in process pictures attached. One shows 3 vmax brake arms one is stock, middle is final version & left was one I used for fitment. One picture shows caliper mounted above rotor, but saddle bag would not clear it. Next to last shows stock Venture brake mount setting in place, with no chance of being made to work. Gary
  23. dingy

    Valve Tool Help

    dingy replied to djh3's topic in Watering Hole

    CAD drawings attached of usage. Gary
  24. dingy
    Been there a number of times, always a fun ride. Was close this weekend. Went down to Columbus and road around some on the country roads east of town with my cousins, but didn't go to Hocking. Gary
  25. dingy
    I would rather not go to the larger dia. rim. It would hurt my take off power in general. I had to mill down the VMax caliper bracket also to get it to fit into the frame with the VMax wheel. There was no way the Venture brakes would work with the VMax rim. Gary
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