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Showing results for tags 'circuit'.
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The gear indicator on my 84 stopped working properly last summer. I checked all the wires coming from the transmission with my ohm meter and all are making a complete circuit. Now where is the doodad/gadget/thingamabob that I have to check to see if it's malfunctioning? I can't find it in my manual. Thanks, Bill
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I keep blowing the top fuse in the fuse Box. It's a 10amp fuse and leads to a white wire with a red stripe. What circuit does this power ? Any suggestions ? Jim O'D........
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I know this subject has been beaten to death, but I would like to add my thoughts (feel free to correct me). My bike idles great and runs great through the entire range, but just off idle--it goes lean and backfires slightly (this seems common). I decided to richen-up the "pilot screws". I agree with several of the other members who err on the rich side (milage will not be affected much). The "pilot screws" adjust the idle mixture. The Main jet size controls the main circuit mixture. What I usually do on a muscle car is adjust the screws until the highest vacuum reading is attained. What I found with my bike is that No amount of adjustment made any difference at all! That tells me that the entire "idle Circuit" is plugged or otherwise non-functional. The reason the bike idles fine is because the throttles are probably opened-up enough to draw from the main circuit. It's time for a chemical dip. -
Well I have finally finished my Bench Tester for TCI's. I can now take in anyone's TCI to test and give a report on the results. The test will consist of the following. 1. Test each input coil circuit to see that it activates the corresponding ignition coil output transistor in the TCI. 2. Test the circuit for the kickstand switch ensuring that it deactivates the TCI. 3. Test the circuit for the pressure switch making sure that it advances/retards the timing. 4. Test to see that each ignition coil is getting the proper voltage to energize. 5. Run tests at a simulated 900 RPM up to 6000 RPM at various speeds. I can bench test the TCI without taking it apart by unsoldering the motherboard from the case. I can also test the board even if it has been taken out of the case. I will do this testing for $30 (return postage extra). Any repairs would require taking out the board and replacing components as required. Pricing will depend on what components would be required but total cost above the $30 should be under $75 (postage extra) I just completed a repair for Rich at wera90ex@aol.com and he was quite happy with the results. (He said I could use his name as a reference.) I'm attaching a picture of my test rig which outputs to my scope. The picture shows an output from a good TCI running at about 1000 RPM. It shows a test for input coil #1 with the output going to ignition coil #1. It was very hard to get a good picture but this does show the output. Any queries about this testing can be sent to me at donb@MNSi.net Best regards to all Don Brechun Windsor, ON
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I have made a write up covering some basics on the use and installation of relays in motorcycles. I worked in railroad signaling for 15 years and most of this time I was a signal circuit design engineer. I primarily dealt with relay based design involving signaling and highway crossing protection. During this time, I gained some knowledge concerning relays and the design of relay based circuits. The write up refers primarily with the relays used in Ventures. It does not include any information regarding the starting solenoid or flasher relays. I have included some basic information and definitions regarding relays. There are pictures of the internal workings of Venture and automotive style accessory relays that are available at various auto parts stores. Also included is some basic information involved in wiring and fuse size selection. I have included examples of several practical applications of relays involving Ventures including: Driving lamp addition Passing Lamp addition for RSV’s Headlight cut-out when starting for RSV’s Air horn addition Ignition switch bypass modification for RSV’s To open the PDF file, click on file name shown in blue below. Relays 101.pdf
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I originally posted this on one of the Goldwing sites and got no response. For the last few weeks I've been trying to get my telephone synched up to work through the Zumo like I had it on the RSV. When I connect the mic splitter I get a lot of noise that sounds like alternator whine and I really don't know what to try next. The noise is coming through the mic circuit. Without the intercom on I don't hear it on the bike but the person on the other end of phone call does. I could live with that. However, when the IC is turned on the noise is unbearable. So far I have checked all connections and grounds. I replaced the noise isolator on the AUX input. I've tried both an MP3 and Edsets mic splitter. I tried unplugging the mic from the GPS but the noise is still there on the IC. If I take the mic splitter out there is no noise on the IC. I have the Honda rear passenger controller which gives you a filter that is plugged into the mic circuit. I've tried with and without it and there is no difference. I can increase or reduce the noise by moving the wires around but I can never eliminate it. Would a torroid magnet on of the wires help? Is there anything else I can try? Thanks for any help, Dennis
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Today was the first day I ride my RS97 after winter, only for 2 or 3 miles. Oil change completed, but even when I check the coolant, I saw the red light dimming (Just started to get on) on temperature, as well as I was able to hear a little wistle. Next step will be to take off the whole coolant, and after clean the whole circuit then replace it. Also, a check on the fan circuit to be sure is working. Any other suggestion on this cases? (Purchase another bike is not admited!!!)
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Hi guys, winter project time.. The 4 way flashers on our RSV require the bike to turned on (ignition ON) which means you'd have to leave the bike running or risk the battery draining since the headlight is left on with the key turned to ON.. I've searched around for alternatives to this set up, but nothing concrete comes up.. Could it be as simple as moving one or two wires from the ignition side of a circuit over to an AUX side of the circuit? I'm not electrically inclined (I get zapped a lot) so I'm not sure how that would work.. Anyone have any info on how one could have the 4 way flashers (hazard lights) come on with the bike on Aux power? If the signal lights were LED, then they would be easy on battery power consumption, no? Thanks in advance..
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CLASS head needed for parts
dingy posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Does anyone have a working or non working CLASS controller head that they would part with cheap to help a member out. I have been working with Curtis, trying to get his CLASS system working to no avail. He bought a unit from Shawn Hess that was not working and I tried it in my bike and it didn't work there either. Bongobobby brought a unit to MD that also was not working. Both units have the upper circuit board malfunctioning, not the lower one that is covered in the tech section. I determined this by swapping boards out with my working unit. Could not see anything obvious with either one. Gary -
connected their gps to the AUX circuit and been able to add another device at the same time. We are listening to these devices called walk abouts which basically are books on tape in one unit. when we plug one into the circuit, (I have split the circuit) with the gps connected, nothing works. I thought others were also doing this. Was I wrong? Bob
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After owning my 83 VR for year I'm finally getting round to fixing a few of the niggles including the second gear (currently in the process of removing the engine - gratefully assisted by all the articles on this site.) I have question on the Second Gear kit for those that have used it before I order it - Does it contain anything more than the four parts listed? I ask as the cost of the four individual parts appears to be less (a lot less in some places) than the kit, so is there something extra? As an aside I tried the Battery Sensor fix and couldn't get it to work with the 1K, 2.2K or variable resistors, so I disabled it directly on the CMS circuit board by breaking the relevant circuit and using a pull down resistor. I can take pictures if anyone is interested. Also I had a fun issue with the flashers (or indicators for any of us Brits) - they only worked when turned to the left. Turned out the Hazard Switch had some loose contacts than only made contact depending on gravity. Great site BTW with lots of useful information. -
Attached are redrawn schematics of the starting circuits for the 1st Gen's. I thought these might help people that have cranking & starting issues. There is a narrative above each circuit detailing operation. This text assumes a charged battery and intact fuses. There are three views of each circuit. Left side shows circuit in normal condition, key off, side stand down, transmission in neutral. Center view shows circuit with key on, transmission in neutral. clutch and side stand switches not shown as they are irrelevant in this configuration. All switches and relays shown in position to energize starting motor. RIght view shows key on, transmission in gear, side stand up and cluth pulled in. Neutral switch not shown as it is irrelevant in this configuration. All switches and relays shown in position to energize starting motor. Also, the side stand relay and Emergency stop sensor are shown. Neither of these affect the cranking circuit but will shut down the Ignitor unit. Actually, the bike will start and run with either of these pulled out. 84-85 one is almost identical to 86-93 version. Only difference is positive wire at starting solenoid coil. Gary
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Attached are redrawn schematics of the starting circuits for the 1st Gen's. I thought these might help people that have cranking & starting issues. There is a narrative above each circuit detailing operation. This text assumes a charged battery and intact fuses. There are three views of each circuit. Left side shows circuit in normal condition, key off, side stand down, transmission in neutral. Center view shows circuit with key on, transmission in neutral. clutch and side stand switches not shown as they are irrelevant in this configuration. All switches and relays shown in position to energize starting motor. RIght view shows key on, transmission in gear, side stand up and cluth pulled in. Neutral switch not shown as it is irrelevant in this configuration. All switches and relays shown in position to energize starting motor. Also, the side stand relay and Emergency stop sensor are shown. Neither of these affect the cranking circuit but will shut down the Ignitor unit. Actually, the bike will start and run with either of these pulled out. 84-85 one is almost identical to 86-93 version. Only difference is positive wire at starting solenoid coil. 37977.pdf Gary
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hey guys, I'm having a problem of something running the batt. down over a period of 2-3 days if I don't start the bike or put in on a batt. maintainer. I have run it down to one of the blade type fuses in the fuse box that is located to the right front of the batt. location. It is a 15 amp fuse, but I can't find any info as to what circuit that fuse controls. It never blows the fuse, just runs the batt. down. If anyone knows what circuit that fuse controls, I could sure use the info. Thanks in advance. Don H .
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I now have power. Thanks to Riderduke. David got here this afternoon and we headed out to get the parts needed and eat. Had one set back when one of the circuit breakers evidently was broken. Headed back out to get a replacement, but before we did we found the original reason that this happened. It was the outlet in the bathroom. So David switched that out too and miraculously we have power. Who know one little switch would cause so much trouble. I can't thank David enough for coming to help me out. As well as all those who also offered help from driving here to being there for us if we needed someone to ask questions of. So I have power and a nice new circuit breaker box. He hasn't gotten any DQ though, but he has eaten dinner and lunch so far and I'm taking him to breakfast in the morning. Margaret
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I had my 87 apart for over two weeks. There is a green two pin quick connector that has two wires- brown (or chocolate?) and white and black and white. The connector emerges from the wiring harness along the left side just above a point halfway between the radiator and the front left (as you sit on the bike) cylinder (no. 2). The manual indicates this may be part of the turn signal circuit, which is not functioning since I put it back together. I am trying to diagnose my turn signals not working and wonder if I'm missing something. The turn signals are DOA. Thanks You guys! -
I like to keep things neat, especially wiring; my question for others is: Where do you have your passing lamp circuit grounded? All the way back to the fuse block? battery? headlight surrounds? Thanks for the input (just curious here).
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I was having trouble getting the E4 code almost all the time. I was fooling around in the back of the unit and noticed that when I wiggled the main connector the unit would reset. After reading several comments on this website about soldering the circuit board due to loose connections I decided to look deeper. I disassembled the unit and removed the circuit boards. Using a magnifing glass I was able to see that the solder joints on the back of the main connector were loose and would move when I applied pressure to the connector. Went to Radio Shack and purchased a 25W soldering iron, solder, and desoldering braid. Fixed it myself and the unit works fine. Small investment for a major fix. Thanks to you all who placed the information on the web.
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I'm having a problem with the 86 I just picked up that was in storage for a pretty long time. I have it idling just fine but whenever I increase the rpms to lets say 2000 it just pops and sputters. But if I give it full throttle, it seems to rev to higher r's without missing a beat. There are three circuits: 1) low speed circuit (idle) controlled by the idle mixture screws 2) mid range circuit - controlled by the pilots jets 3) high speed circuit - controlled by the main jets Would any agree or disagree that I most likely am dealing with clogged or partially clogged pilots? Thanks
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I have been searching all morning for what to use to replace my fuse panel with something that is far better and more modern. what have the rest of you used? what fit's in the same spot? I really want blade fuses, and would like to expand it from the all used up 6 circuit to an 8 circuit to allow me to separately fuse accessories. Also has anyone upgraded the switched with a relay and a secondary fuse panel? -
I have an 83 stock Venture (no cb or intercom) and the previous owner had installed a standard car radio in place of the original. I replaced it with a Kenwood KRC-38MR with remote control pad several years ago, and it has performed quite well. Then last summer I replaced the cycles' fuse block and rather than run everything off of one accessory feed I inserted a relay (energized by the accessory circuit) and added a secondary fuse block thru which I fed all of the accessories (so I could split out various light circuits separate from the radio circuit). The new radio circuit was fused at 5 amps and was connected to a noise suppressor that was there previously. Everything worked fine when I was testing it in the garage on the accessory position (without the cycle running). The first time I ventured out (no pun intended) and attempted to turn the radio on, I could not hear anything until I stopped - then it was making stuttering sounds, as if it was getting intermittent power in rapid succession. Within a few minutes I got no sound at all - lights are on and it changes stations, etc, but no audio output. Fuses are all intact. The leads to the speakers are reading a constant 6 volts. I verified the voltage going to the radio appears to be constant as far my cheapo voltmeter shows (slightly higher than 12 volts when the engine is running, as I would expect). So the first question is whether anyone has any ideas as to what I have done to the radio itself, and more importantly, is there a flaw in my design of running the radio off of a relay circuit? Am I possibly getting voltage spikes that are somehow filtered thru the accessory circuit, but being reintroduced via the relay? Assuming I have blown the radio, any suggestions as to a reasonable relacement with an eye for future additions of a GPS, MP3, cell phone and headset interfaces, etc... on a bike that has no built-in provision for those things currently? Thanks for any suggestions or ideas, Mark (Windrider1983). -
Somewhere, someone posted a method to wire an aux fuse block into the exisiting charging circuit INSTEAD OF directly to the battery so that those aux items connected wouldn't cause a big drain on the battery and also so that if an ammeter was installed, it would show the correct info.... I think it was V7Goose who posted this info but I can't seem to find it.... anyone have the link handy?
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There have been many times here where somebody has had questions about the proper way to re-solder the class controller on the first gen or other soldering jobs. I ran across this pretty good page on how to properly re-solder connections on circuit boards. Hopefully it will help some of our members who have not done much soldering. http://www.streettech.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=68
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can anyone tell me, at what R.P.M., the idle circuit drops off and the main carb circuit takes over? my problem is, if i can't get my engine to idle, then 4 gallons of pure sea foam, isn't going to clean the idle jets, and other idle circuit components. just jt -
I am attempting to upgrade the glass fuse box to a plastic Buss type. I read a thread awhile back where one of the members did this, but of course I cannot now find it. Here is my issue. The original glass fuse block isolates the incoming power for each circuit, ie, headlight, turn, brake, ignition etc.. The replacement block has one incoming terminal for all outputs. There is no way to isolate the incoming power for each circuit. I determined that with the exception of the accessory circuit, the remaining circuits are all hot once the ignition is switched to the on position. The accessory circuit is hot (not surprisingly) once the key is turned to ACC. I could isolate the Accessory circuit with those individual rubber blade type fuse sockets and run the remaining circuits through the new block. My thought was to simply strip the wires, wind them together solder them to a heavier gauge wire and terminate at the hot terminal on the new block. I am hesitant to this because somewhere along the line I thought I read that there was a reason each of the circuits has its own individual hot feed in the original glass fuse box, in particular the lighting circuit. I don’t want to fry anything and somehow I think my plan is to easy. Any ideas out there?
