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rmcclain

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  • Name
    Ron McClain

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  • Home Country
    United States

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  • Bike Year and Model
    Yamaha 1989 Venture
  1. Had the anoying squeal so I took the front (both sides) apart and used NAPA brake grease on all moving parts except between the pad and piston. Noise went away for a few rides and it came back. Read yesterday on this thread that greasing between the pad and piston took care of the noise so I did mine yesterday and went for a ride. Everything nice and quiet now. We will see if it lasts.
  2. I looked at Triwing's web site and it would appear that a unit will cost $6,500 (2008) price. This does not include the wheels, tires, and painting. So, I would say that we are probably in the neighorhood of $7,500-$8,000 to convert. My 89 has 37,000 miles on it. Looking at ads my 89 is worth somewhere in the $3,500 to $4,000 range. It is very clean and runs great. This would make the total investment at around $12,000. Is it worth it for a 89?
  3. My 89 does not have any chrome trim. This is the reflector that wraps the lower section of the trunk box.
  4. I am in need of the reflector that wraps around the rear box.
  5. This morning I thought I would try it again so I removed the airbox and backed out the three adjustment screws until they were all loose. The bike is cold at this time. I then adjusted 1 and 2 the 3 and 4 and left and right banks. After this I noticed the linkage was now resting on the idle adjustment screw so I started it up with the choke and let it warm up. The idle was high so I adjusted the idle screw and got it down to 1000. Don't know what was different from yesterday but it is ok now, however, I still can not use my home made manometer. The only thing I can think of is yesterday I am not sure if I loosened all three screws before starting. I was reading some threads and it was mentioned that if the rpms would not come down it was idling on 3 and 4. I also lubed all of the linkage. Anyway, I feel I am at least back to where I was before I got myself into trouble. Now I will find a real Carbtune and some help and do this right. Thanks for all of your help. The bike was running good before I started this mess, however, had a few pops at idle and me being somewhat of a perfectionist I wanted it perfect. Oh well.
  6. Here is the latest. I set the rpms at 1000. I removed the air box. I discovered that two of the slides did not slide so I got them moving with some carb cleaner and WD40. I then shimmed them back out of the way with thin pieces of cardboard so I could see the butterflies clearly. The throttle cable is attached to the left front carb (whatever number it is). I backed out the screw on the left side until the left back carb would not open when I started to open the left front carb. I then adjusted the screw in until both butterflies started to open at the same time. On the right side the front carb opens first so I did the same adjustment on the right rear screw and got both of the butterflies opening at the same time. I then did the same adjustment on the left front screw and got the two banks opening at the same time. This is really a nice way of doing it since you can see all four butterflies working. I put it all back together and also cleaned the spark plugs since it has been smoking quite a bit from the transmission fluid sucked into the engine. I started the bike and let it warm up. I cannot get it to idle down below 2200 rpms and there is about 1/8" space from the idle adjustment screw and the linkage. I can get the linkage to touch the idle screw if I force the throttle handle but cannot if I let the throttle handle work on its own. Any suggestions?
  7. Marcarl, good information, however, my shop manual shows carb #1 as the back carb on left side. I hope to try all of this today or tomorrow. I have had the air box off several times so no problem there and I understand what you are telling me so I will give it a go. Thanks to all of you who have replied. This is a great site for getting me out of my own trouble.
  8. Thanks. No problem on picking it up. Is there anything I can do to help you in Cape Cod?
  9. Does anyone have a Carbtune tool I can rent or does someone know of a good mechanic in or near Columbus Ohio that could sync my carbs or is there a member close to Columbus Ohio that would help me or do the sync? I tried the home made tool without any success.
  10. I am adjusting the correct screws. I have a shop manual and I have pictures from this site.
  11. Today I built one of the carb sync tools using the clear tubes, rubber stoppers, and transmission fluid as the liquid. The tubes are 18" long and I put about 4" of liquid in each. The unit looks just like the many posted on here before. After warming up the bike I connected the four tubes to the carbs, started the bike and all of the liquid was sucked into the #4 tube and was bouncing violently up and down and fluid was sucked into the carb. I finally got it settled down in tube #4 adjusting on both sides and some liquid was now in #3, however, bouncing up and down violently. The entire time no liquid in 1 and 2 tubes. I shut it down and added liquid back to the 4" starting point in each tube. Started it up and the same thing. I shut it down, thinking the carbs were way out of sync I set the three screws the same number of turns. Tried it again and the same thing. Shut it down and put it all back together. Never did get any liquid in 1 and 2 tubes. I tried adjusting the sync srews via the tach (plugs and hose back on) and could get the rpms to move up and down. Kept adjusting until the rpms were at the highest on all three screws then could not get it to idle down to 1000. I noticed the idle adjustment screw was not touching the plate. The only way I could get it to idle down was by adjusting the screw on #1 and 2 carbs. I assume my cable needs adjusted? Any thoughts on the liquid problem in the #4 tube and lack of fluid in the #1 and 2 tubes?
  12. Anyone have experience in silencing the front break squeak. I have new pads. Should the rotor be turned like a car's?.
  13. I just changed all of the exhaust system gaskets because I had a leak at the collector so while I had everything apart I changed them all. I bought them at Cheap cycle parts.com. They were $20+ each. Yamaha has replaced the old copper band type gasket with a grey soft band type. You need to be careful with them when inserting the pipes because they are soft. Also, clean up the pipes real well. I would think the new type will seal better because they are soft.
  14. I just changed mine on my 89 VR. Bought the springs on line (no one stocks) at MAWONLINE. They were the cheapest. Received them in one week. I went to Sears and bought a 17mm allen wrench ($9?) and used a 17mm open end wrench to take the caps out and in. The caps are not very tight. Go to the forum for 1st Gen and search for fork springs. There is a ton of information.
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