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Showing results for tags 'solder'.
Found 15 results
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I have been chasing this problem for way too long. So before I have this bike sent to a salvage yard, I am going to reach out to the experts. Problem - low beam is way to dim. 1. Bulb has tested good. 2. Dimmer switch replaced and is good as well as clean. 3. Not real sure how to check the reserve lighting unit but I have three of them and same symptom with all three. This pretty much eliminates a bad RLU. 4. I also removed the CMU to check for a faulty solder point and could not identify any but re-soldered the plug solder points anyway. Reinstalled - dim low beam still. Since I had another complete dash unit, I checked the replacement dash and found no issues and installed that one. Still a dim low beam. High beam is as bright as it should be, just a dim low beam. Battery is 12.6. How should I proceed from here? I'd hate to part this thing out; it runs just too good to do that. Thanks in advance for your help. herb -
I looked for this for a while. Haven't tried it yet and orginal poster is no longer around. I had to replace mine awhile back and I made my own from some 1 1/4" ID copper tubing. there are two ways to do it. 1) cut two pieces 1" long, split one longitudinally and slip it over the uncut one then solder the cut 2) cut a piece 1" long and then get a union sleeve, grind off the inside ridge and slip over the cut tubing. Works great, no problems or leaks for a couple years now.
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I beleave I got,my answer, In a search, But just in case I miss understood here goes. My trailer is nearly done. I wired the bike at the loom under the seat with inline fuse protection. I put the ground on the negative terminal for testing everything works great. With that in mind, should I solder a lug on it and and attach it their or is there a better place. Or does it make any difference. Thanks guys and gals.
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Doing a search on the forum for "Soldering" provided a lot of very good tutorials, tips and links to articles on how to solder...and how to fix the E4 error, which my 88 is experiencing All the tutorials speak of a soldering IRON. I remember my Dad had one, a big clunky beast about 10" long with a shaft about 1/2" diameter. I'm sure they come smaller but what I'm wondering is there any reason why I can't use a soldering GUN? Is there a quality issue here or some other reason everybody refers to an "Iron" and never a "GUN"? Are they one and the same as far as soldering is concerned? Am I over complicating things or is there something here I don't understand? Also, a lot of emphasis is placed on having CLEAN connectors to solder. If you have a solder joint that is bad (you can see the ring around the post) how are you supposed to clean it well enough to solder? The corrosion is probably inside the solder dome!
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My air suspension showed the dreaded E4 error. After studying Freebirds (thanks!) thread on the topic I tackled it today. Removed the control unit from the bike (5 mins) and disassembled it while I was home for lunch. These eyes are getting old so I really couldn't see solder breaks very well, so later in the afternoon I stopped at Radio Scrap and bought a hands free with magnifying glass, and some finer gauge solder. Tonight after work while I still had light I thought what the heck go for it. Re-soldered 4 pins on one connector and a few on the other. Put it back together and re-installed it. Turned the key and everything worked! Yes I was surprised and pleased with myself, and grateful to this forum for keeping me rolling. And then since it was a very nice evening here in Salem Oregon I took it for a ride. Thank you! tom
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ive installed h.i.d. and led's. someone please send me pics of how to use jumpers on the cmu to correct the idiot lights. thans. i have to solder the CLASS so i might as well get the cmu out again. -
Anyone have the driver intercom cable harness they can part with. Tried soldering a new plug on the end where it sits on the tank but just can't get a good solder on those little wires. If someone has one to part out please let me know and how much. Oh it's for an 86. -
I had an opportunity to resolder the circuit board in a spare CMOS unit from my original MKI instrument cluster. I was able to get a fairly good close up picture of an example of some cold solder joints that I thought I would post. This may be helpful to someone that has never seen a cold solder joint. There are 8 large connections in picture that all show some signs of a cold joint. The circular ridge around the base of the soldered joint is the sign of a cold joint. The worst case is the far right joint. The smaller connections in the upper right corner are good solder joints. For a size relationship, the large row of 4 joints is 3/4" in length. Gary
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I was having trouble getting the E4 code almost all the time. I was fooling around in the back of the unit and noticed that when I wiggled the main connector the unit would reset. After reading several comments on this website about soldering the circuit board due to loose connections I decided to look deeper. I disassembled the unit and removed the circuit boards. Using a magnifing glass I was able to see that the solder joints on the back of the main connector were loose and would move when I applied pressure to the connector. Went to Radio Shack and purchased a 25W soldering iron, solder, and desoldering braid. Fixed it myself and the unit works fine. Small investment for a major fix. Thanks to you all who placed the information on the web.
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Trying to pull the computer module so I can re-solder it. Thought there was a tech article on how and what to solder??? Can't find it! Anybody???
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OK, 1985 Venture Royale, 46,000 miles Battery level lcd always shows indication and red light flashes. I have tried the resister (1.1 and 2.2), taken the dash apart and checked all solder connections on the first board, cleand all connectors. Still shows indication. All other lcd indicators function properly. The only thing that I noticed on the board was that the solder for a black transister looked a little funky, all others looked good. I resoldered the connection to board joints anyways to ensure that thy were good. Ideas?
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Hi, Ok so I have my new red '84 Std Venture's dash apart, as some light bulbs needed changing. Surprisingly ALL the dash illumination lamps were blown. This seems odd but OK, lets see what happens with new ones. My limited experience with this bike has shown me that there is some erratic behaviour with the CMS indications, brake / oil indicators coming on spuriously & intermittently etc. I recall reading here about bad solder joints on the CMS commonly causing such things, so I brought the CMS to work with me this morning where I have a good BIG magnifying work light, appropriate solder and a proper size iron for the job. (and a bit of free time thankfully. ) Now, I have done electronic QC work in the past so I know what bad solder joints look like and how to reflow the solder etc. Under close inspection, I didn't see any obviously suspect joints on the lower CMS board. I went ahead anyways, and gingerly reheated & resoldered all the joints on the bottom pc board, concentrating on the ones associated with the wiring connectors. (I can't recall when I worked on a board that bubbled so much when heated though!) All look good and shinny and solid now. While I have this unit on the bench, is there any thing else I have over looked that good practice calls for to make it happy and reliable again? BTW, although I get CMS indications for oil and brake occasionally, I have yet to see the red flashing warning indicator work. Any clues here ? All thoughts and suggestions welcome. Thanks, Brian H. Uxbridge Ont
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Today I put the class control back on the bike and it works like new again. I used the info from the tech libary and went through the circuit board. Found several loose or bad solder joints that needed re-done other than the seven joints listed in the information. The moral of this story is: Check all solder joints when doing this repair.....
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83 Venture Standard I will be or try to anyway, repair my fuel gauge.#1 Do I need to solder the whole strip or just around the prongs,#2 Would I need more solder to do the repair or just heat up the solder already in place?If so what type of solder do I need for this board? I already have it torn down,CMS in hand. buddy
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Anybody know about this product , motofx remote garage door opener and is it worth the money . I tried rigging my own remote control but killed it trying to solder wires to it now I have to by a new one .Or is there another model out there .
