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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Well you did tell me to put a note on it not to leave at front door. Guess they read that at least. I just had an interesting experience at our main post office. The post office has free boxes that you can have delivered to you for priority shipping. There is a flat rate series, and one named regional priority and apparently another closely named box. On Monday-, I shipped 13 of the regional priority boxes out to the majority of people getting them & a couple of international ones at the branch office close to my work. All the US ones had pre-ran postage & insurance labels on them that I can run through paypal. The clerk there took the US bound priority boxes and and processed my to international ones and every thing was great. Tuesday night I take one more headed to Portugal, that the guy asked for registered mail and I went to main post office which is sort of on my way home. It had an issue, because some regulation with registered mail said it had to have brown tape sealing it. The clerk went out of her way to help me with it and it went on its way after she re-taped it for me. Tonight, I take 2 more boxes, exactly like the 13 I had shipped Monday at the branch, and another clerk bluntly tells me I can't use that box to ship items priority using the label I had from paypal. If it hadn't been for a supervisor there she would have made me take them & repack them. This was like a 3 or 4 minute civil discussion as to why I couldn't use a priority box from the post office to ship priority mail in. They even told me that even if I hadn't had the pre-postage label on it that they still couldn't ship it. These are boxes the post office sent me marked priority mail. Picture of one of the unused boxes attached. I hate being screwed with. Gary
  2. dingy
    The connector has a tab that is engaged in a hole on bottom side of where it slides into master housing. The 2 holes are the main flow & and a smaller relief hole. It is an extremely small hole. At work we have piano wire in all the small sizes for making springs. I think the largest wire that would go into a master that I had was #14. The tough part of rebuilding is getting the cir-clip out of the housing that holds it together. Not many c-clip pliers will reach in that deep. If you have a new clip, you can engage the old clip with a pointed tool like an awl and bend it inward to help get it out. New one goes in easier, once it is started in bore, push it down till it engages slot. Main thing to look for is that small hole is open & there is absolutely no surface imperfections where the seals ride deep in bore. Gary
  3. dingy
    Your neighbors must be making you see the light. Keep this up and you may get back to your former employer. As a full time guest. Gary
  4. dingy
    With all due respect, if you can push the carbide side of the seal in with a finger, you have a big S on your shirt. The ceramic side that rides in the rubber grommet can be done this way, but I doubt the carbide side can be. Gary
  5. dingy
    Sold another part today. Dano needs the proceeds more than I do. Get well soon. Gary
  6. dingy
    Attached is a picture I took for another member that was having an issue after he installed his pump. Impeller not shown. I added other items in red to list I did. I am forced into using explorer at work, no spell check and I didn't get some items listed. Problem with pressing/driving it in a vise is the backside of the pump housing doesn't have a good flat surface to press against unless you have about a 6" vise. Arbor press is best, but with some McGyvering, a large C clamp can be adapted with some bar stock steel. The seal has to go straight in first time. It must be pressed against the large diameter metal ring. A large socket can be used that engages the outer ring fully. As far as blowing an engine from this, unlikely if you are careful and check oil/coolant after 50 - 100 miles. If you have carbide side of seal it in flat & even you are probably OK, If it looks questionable as far as alignment, you need to than make a call as to what needs to be done. It is doable with a mid range of skills & tools. I have put two in mine with no problem. 1st was when I rebuilt motor 2 years ago, then last year I powder coated pump housing black and had to replace seal to be able to cure powder. Gary
  7. dingy
    The main thing you need are: 1FK-12450-00-00 – Qty 1 IMPELLER SHAFT ASY for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D Item 2 – this is supposedly the metal version, original was plastic $39.72 11H-12438-10-00 – Qty 1 SEAL, MECHANICAL for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D Item 8 – ceramic water tight seal $19.54 93101-10090-00 – Qty 1 OIL SEAL,S-TYPE for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D Item 7 $2.52 1FK-12450-00-00 – Qty 1 IMPELLER SHAFT ASY for 1984 YAMAHA XV 1200D Item 2 – this is supposedly the metal version, original was plastic $39.72 Hardest part will be getting the face seal into the housing. Getting old one out can be a pain, but it can be destroyed to get out. The face seal needs to be driven into pump case. You get one shot at this, it won't come back out in a usable condition. If your impeller is metal version, it probably doesn't need replaced. I have some pictures at home of the internals of the pump. Oil should not need drained if bike is on sidestand & maybe centerstand. I would replace thermostat. I got a auto one at O'Riely's, don't know the number right now. If you replaces t-stat, there is an oring gasket in t-stat cover that you should get. Dowel pin fixes plastic gear to shaft rotationally, slip fit. Gear should not need to be replaced. Gary
  8. dingy
    Here is a link to http://www.cycleoneoff.com Go to chain drive on left menu. There are a few pictures of a VMax chain drive. $4,650 Gary
  9. dingy
    Dan, PM me if you need parts for the 84. I have quite a few things lying around. I will probably have a set of front fairings if you need a set, I got a little better set, since I am painting it this year. Gary
  10. dingy
    A trailer will look so good behind speedy !! Get better Dan !! Gary
  11. dingy
    Here are pictures of the ports on the stock pipes for the A/F probe sniffer. Gary
  12. dingy
    So, after landing my new job as a Wal-Mart greeter, a good find for many retirees. I lasted less than a day . . . About two hours into my first day on the job, a very loud, unattractive, mean-acting woman walked into the store with her two kids,yelling obscenities at them all the way through the entrance. I said pleasantly, "Good morning and welcome to Wal-Mart. Nice children you have there. Are they twins?" The ugly woman stopped yelling long enough to say, "Hell no, they ain't twins. The oldest one's 9, and the other one's 7. Why the hell would you think they're twins? Are you blind, or stupid?" So I replied, "I'm neither blind nor stupid, Ma'am. I just couldn't believe someone slept with you twice. Have a good day and thank you for shopping at Wal-Mart." My supervisor said I probably wasn't cut out for this line of work.
  13. dingy
    There are already plugs in mine. Both front headers have them about 3" ahead of collector connection. The rear downpipes have them about 3" after they leave the head. Rather small plugs, about 6mm threads. I have checked them all to keep them from siezing. Gary
  14. dingy
    My Mark's exhaust collector is here. Hopefully a little bit more horsepower in it. Nice construction, stainless steel. Needs some polishing. Good communication from Mark, a little delay in getting it due to his workload. He made it and sent it to me, before he asked for payment. His email address is markmcpipe@gmail.com Collector was $321.49 and $14.90 shipping. Gary
  15. dingy
    If you do try to find a replacement, I would recommend you are meticulous about matching the inner diameter and the diameter of the rubber itself. This will be a metric o-ring. Harbor Freight sells a box of a couple hundred o-rings in various metric sizes for around $10. Handy to have at times. If you were to use a 'close' imperial o-ring, it will not be a good replacement. If it is a little thicker, it will be a real pain to get to slide into the water pump & thermostat housing, a little too thin and it may leak. This application of an O-ring is called a radial seal. It is less forgiving about a mismatch in size than a face seal type application. I work with these in my day job. Gary
  16. dingy
    I will take one. Gary
  17. dingy
    I am 99% sure there is a hardware revision for the new software. I don't know that much about it or if there is in fact a hardware change, but the new TCI's are marked V88. I haven't had a chance to try them yet. I sold my V80 version on ebay a couple of weeks ago so I could keep one of these for my bike, so I can't experiment with it. I will send you the V88 software if you want to try it. PM me an email address. Gary
  18. dingy
    I got the TCI's today. They are the new V88 style. Outside of the case & harness connectors are identical to the previous versions. I will ship them no later than Monday, 3/5/12. I have to get all the MAP sensors attached to harness, test on my bike to get the MAP setting correct for the new style. Get CD's ready. Pack them. I have 17 to get ready. I have 3 extras available at this time. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/IMG_1048.jpg
  19. dingy
    One of several seals could be causing this. Or a side cover gasket. Clutch cover, middle drive cover/copper washer on bottom screw. Stator cover, wires coming out of stator cover - pickup coils & stator wires. Clutch shaft seal. Gear indicator o-ring Gear shift shaft. I would start by pulling middle drive cover and seeing what it looks like in there. Attached are some pictures of what you will see with cover removed. Any cover you need to pull will need a new gasket. Gaskets are fairly cheap. Gary
  20. dingy
    Unplugging the anti dives with progressives is not much different than putting the block off plates on IMHO. But the block off plates reduce the unsprung weight on the front end and look a lot nicer. Gary
  21. dingy
    Actually, with the 90-93 bikes, I'm not thinking of a reason that they could not be run with 2 coils. This would require a way to combined 2 spark plug wires at each coil. The 90-93's use a wasted spark system where every plug fires every revolution This would seem to require that 2 coils are firing at the same instant. Not saying this would be a great idea, but it seems possible. All the VMax'x & the Venture box's are TCI units. The primary change in 1990 on both models was the went to a fully digital type circuitry with one pickup coil. With the 85-89 VMax's (& the 83-89 Ventures) had an analog based, but still solid state style system where there were actually 4 independent circuits in the TCI, one for each cylinder. A TCI based system normally is energized, the circuit is interrupted by the TCI at the instant of firing, which causes the coils field to collapse thus inducing a surge into the coil secondary and plug fires. A CDI system is basically opposite, in that it is normally deenergized and at instant of firing the coil is powered up & the surge builds the field in the coil causing the secondary to be energized and fire. The firing/timing mechanism is fairly straightforward on the 4 pickup coil units. With two inducers on the flywheel, it would be easy to determine precise timing for each of the 4 cylinders With one pickup coil and one inducer on the rotor, it is seemingly a little trickier. The first thing is this system forces the wasted spark concept where every plug fires every revolution. What is a little more complex is the difference in firing of the the firing order. 1-3-2-4. The single pickup may trigger #1 & #2 on the leading edge of the inducer passing the pickup coil, then fire #3 & #4 when the inducer clears the pickup coil and the field collapses, but this is a SWAG, (Sophisticated Wild Ass Guess). Gary
  22. dingy
    http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/ttiwwp.gif
  23. dingy
    I love tools. Especially one like this, it will drive someone nuts at my estate sale trying to figure out what it was for. I will take one. Gary
  24. dingy
    The reason it takes quite a while to drop off the first bar is that the gauge float is attached to a wire wound resistor. This resistor is read by the CMU in as a changing resistance as the level in the tank drops. When the tank is all the way full, the float on the level sensor is actually submerged in the tank, thus up as high as it can go in its range. Before it starts to move at all, enough gas has to be used to drop below the floats upper bouyancy range, then enough more used, before the float starts to drop & vary the resistance reading. At the bottom of the floats range, it seems to cycle through the bars much faster than when the tank is near full. Gary
  25. dingy
    There will be no change on the CMU monitor as a result of changing the petcock position. Gary
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