dingy

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I don't think so, I put mine in with notches down yesterday. And if it makes you feel any better, I had to loosen tubes after I had them up and in to slip these in. Not quite up to your high score for dis/reassemblies but still an error. Gary

Some thing that may help if you are not doing it now is to O-I-O corners. Outside-Inside-Outside. When setting up for a curve go into it as far to the outside edge of curve as practical at a comfortable, but pushing speed. When into curve in center, go as far to the inside of the curve as is safe. About 1/3 to 1/2 way into curve, start accelerating fairly hard. As curve is exited, aim for the outside edge of curve. As bike is accelerated it will naturally pull you through curve and to outside. You do not want to brake or downshift in a curve you are pushing bike through, either one will tend to make the bike dive into the curve. Go into the curve in a gear where you are at the low end of the power band, maybe 4500 -5500 rpm's for a first gen. This will allow enough acceleration range to come out of curve and not have to shift. Upshifting is not as bad as downshifting though if RPM's are topped out. When going into a curve hard, look ahead quite a ways, don't look down right in area near front of bike. Gary

Just something to cover air compressor cover and give it a little better look without the trunk. I wouldn't ride without trunk if I had wife on, so I don't need any passenger support. Gary

Thats the one on kisan sight. I am thinking LED's mounted to form a turn signal arrow. I could also disable them at night if they were to bright, with a low cost photovoltaic unit. Something like what is in my head light modulator. Gary

Any ideas on a cover that could be mounted in place of the trunk from some other bikes. I like to go out at times without the trunk on. Bike handles better in curves, and less weight, lower center of gravity. More get up & go. I not any good at making a part like this, me and fiberglass don't get along. Something from another bike that could be modded to be detachable would be nice. Gary

Ok, my wheels are turning on something I saw in Kisan sight. There was a link to installing meter in side mirror. I don't want a meter there though. Anybody got an idea how to get a mirror glass out of a 1st gen (intact) and be able to put it back in. Gary

They don't get any more naked than this. Gary

Attached are a couple of pictures of an 83 caliper arm. Maybe this will help you determine what your spacer situation is. Gary

I really don't know what you are able to do with a sidecar attached. If it is on the center stand, normally the rear wheel is off the ground. 3mm sounds about right for the width of the spacer, that's close to 1/8". Gary

This is wrong on so many levels. Which word didn't you understand "1st Gen Tech Library"? I know you understand the 1st Gen part, so that leaves Tech & Library. Duh. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/Poopbrain.jpg

Carl, Something else to consider with replacing the banjo bolt is that it would then require the brakes to be bled. Not that this is a bad thing, but there may be one or two that are willing to swap out plates, but don't want the ordeal of bleeding that rear/front linked brake. Not trying to be a wet blanket here. Gary

Does the caliper bracket/swing arm have the spacer washer installed. 1st picture is of an RSV, but similar. On yours it will look a little more like the 2nd picture, but this is an MKII setup. Thick washer is between the black swing arm and the red caliper arm. If this spacer is missing & you have the thinner rotor mentioned above, this could be causing the mis-alignment issue you are having. Gary

And not to mention it will be excellent with an M14, which I qualified highest score in a battalion of 330 recruits at Parris Island. I hate that close combat crap, 500 yards, open sights, 10 in the black, not to mention 200 & 300 yards. Gary

Break out the handcuffs & Jim Beam !! Have a good day !! Gary

Actually, some of the previous red was turned to black today. I stripped lower fork tubes and did them in gloss black. Also finally got a ventureline radiator cover that I got from Bongo a couple of years ago coated black today. Front rim will be gloss black, it came from a VMax. Rotors are a satin black from an FJR that are going on. Next to last is what it looked like in fall, last one is what it looks like tonight. Plan is to paint it bright yellow & get it pin stripped at MD in Oberlin. The red accent items were planned for the yellow all along. And, no, I just got a pound of super mirror red, for those little touch up items. Gary

Do you have any more detailed shots of the rear R1 mount you could send me? I have a modified VMax caliper arm on now to match up to the VMax rim, and I am very interested in getting an R1 caliper on the rear. Gary

It was your post, sweetheart, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44208 Gary

And another thing, if you are going to be all the way into the thermostat, you might consider this upgrade to the starter. Low cost, but big benefits. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46890 NAPA # THM 156 is replacement for thermostat. Gary

I just check my spare parts stash, and I have a very good MKII rotor & caliper & caliper mount arm & stainless brake line that I am not using. I used this setup on my 83 for a couple of years. Caliper arm has a slight modification to work on an MKI swingarm. Bad news is they are powder coated red. Caliper was rebuilt when powder coated. Pictures attached. Gary

That helps with something that confused me from your first post. The 83 stock rotors are 298mm x 8.5mm thick. If it has been replaced with a 5mm, then someone may have added spacers between the caliper and the caliper arm to center the caliper on the now thinner disk. There are not normally spacers at this point. The 3.5mm thinner disk would need the caliper to be shifted towards the rim by 1.75mm to center it. All 83-85 1st gens have twin piston calipers, one on each side. The 86-93 have quad piston calipers. The rear rotor on an 86-93 is a 320mm offset design, different from the 83-85's. Fronts on 86-93 are 282mm x 7mm The 83-85 rotors have different part numbers for the front left rotor. The right front & rear are the same. If this is anything like the 86-93 rotors, this difference is very minor, and I think it wouldn't be a catastrophe to interchange them. Not positive on the last one though. Gary

OK, you said we could comment, I am going to. Overall this is a very good writeup and good step by step guide to rebuilding forks. One of the steps not noted here is the alternative method of removing the complete fork assembly from the bike. This only involves the moderately difficult additional step of removing the air fittings that slide over the upper tubes. Having the complete assembly on a bench makes this an easier job. The one thing I strongly take exception to is using an impact to tighten any fastener when reassembling something like this. Use a torque wrench and set proper torque values. I attached a picture of tool that can be made for under $10 to loosen and tighten the damper rod. It is made from a 20" (or longer) piece of 5/8" thread-all and four 5/8" nuts. The 5/8" nut will engage with the hex opening in the top of the damper rod allowing it to be held is a fixed position while lower screw is removed or installed. Don't hate me because I gave some negative comments. My comments are in blue Gary A friend sent me this and i went through and added a few things from my current experience. Anybody who wants to add or correct this feel free. This will be good for someone contemplating this adventure on their Venture in the future...Like someone in Washington State...? file:///C:/Users/Dingy/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image001.gif (5)Turn the wheel to one side. The manual suggests loosening the fork tube pinch bolts, DON’T. Loosen the top tree pinch bolts. If these are not loosened, it will be more difficult to pull the upper plug out, some people have stripped this fastener by not loosening these upper pinch bolts. Don't loosen the lower triple tree pinch bolts at this point. Using the 17mm hex socket loosen the fork cap bolt. The cap bolt may need to be persuaded with the dead blow hammer but it will loosen. Keep downward pressure as this keeps the spring compressed and stops parts from flying loose. Loosen it completely to remove residue air pressure from that fork tube and then tighten it back in place. (9)Using the curved jaw vise grips remove the speedometer cable from the lower left side. Be careful the inner cable may slide loose. If installed properly this will not come out. There is a ferule at the top end that keeps it from sliding out. If so a piece of electrical tape will hold it in place. Put it up by the left caliper. (10)Loosen and remove the pinch bolt on the lower right fork. Loosen and remove the axle and remove the front wheel. (Some years have a cotter pin & nut on axle bolt also. 83-85) (3)Use the gasket pick to gently spread open the guide bushing and remove it. Catch the seal spacer as it drops off.( This one has smaller inner hole than top one. this is important, goes under seal) Remove the slide bushing in the same manner as the guide bushing, catching the top seal spacer,(This one has larger inner hole than lower one, this is important, goes on top of seal) Remove the dust cover. (7)Use a glob of white grease or petroleum jelly and smear it around the damper rod (complete cylinder) where the smaller section is. Put one new wave washer, a flat washer, and a second wave washer on to this part. Next slide the oil lock piece onto the complete cylinder. IMPORTANT!!! The wider end goes down! If this is reversed you will lock the damper rod in the lower position, cancel out your air suspension, blow a new seal (I don't think this will happen), have a rough riding bike and possibly wreck your ride. (8)Place the outer fork tube over the inner tube, careful not to dislodge the washers and oil lock piece. Hold the outer tube securely and using the air wrench and 10mm hex drive socket, (this is very bad way of doing this, never use an air wrench to tighten a bolt, Use the tool to come in from the top of the fork tube to engage the hex hole in the top of the damper rod. Picture attached. Tighten to 29 ft-lbs.) tighten the Allen head bolts (Place copper seal washer on allen bolt first). (14)Replace the oil drain screw and use the hand impact to tighten the drain screws (one fork at a time). (Should not use a hand impact on these screws, they are 4 mm, just a normal screwdriver JIS screwdriver is best to use, this is a Japanese standard that fits better. Use a sealer per service manual)

This is a distinct possibility if it was in fact hooked to his RSV. But had the trailer been hooked to one of the first gens, he would have then most assuredly lost both of them. Gary

Me too !! 1971, that bike is why I now hate frame mounted fairings. Before that were Rupp mini bikes and a moped & go carts. Gary

If the scraping is on the left side, then you may have damaged the cable junction box. This is where the two lower & two upper cables interface along with the cruise cable. I think outer & inner left fairing need to come off. A failure in this assembly could possibly leave you with a wide open throttle condition when you least need it. Gary