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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    I'm not sure, does the end of the 84 neck down a little like a shoulder bolt or are threads just straight on the end of it? Does the 84 have a lock nut where axle sticks through forks? I found a picture of my 83 and it has a castle jam nut with a cotter pin. The 86-87 is different than what my 83 was once upon a time. Won't interchange IMHO. Gary
  2. dingy
    86-87 have AD valves on front, 88-93 are on the sides. The axle bolt is not a through bolt on the 86-87, it screws into left tube & has a pinch bolt on right tube, no nut on left side. Picture shows 86-87 forks with Skydoc17's block off plates in place of AD's. Gary
  3. dingy
    The frame size of the motor is a critical piece of information. Should be stamped on the tag. It will identify foot print & and a few other needed pieces of info. And face style, C-face or rigid base. Look at this web site. http://www.surpluscenter.com/techhelp/nema2.pdf Gary
  4. dingy
    I didn't remember you had wrench. The washers went out in todays mail, regular 1st class. Gary
  5. dingy
    Try this for a start at wiring. http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/83%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale%20TDK%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf Gary
  6. dingy
    I am 99% sure the thermo housing has to come out. Picture of starter in bike attached. Also a pic of difference between 4 ga welding wire & stock wire. I didn't nick conductors BTW, thats way I got it from mcmaster. Gary
  7. dingy
    Got PM, Regular mail or small priority box, if I send priority it would be there by Friday. $5 priority, or free by snail mail. Need a fork wrench while we are at it? Gary
  8. dingy
    Typical house wire is a lot stiffer than what you will find you would like to have to form wires where they need to be. The mcmaster stuff was very fine strand, about 1000 strands in the bundle. More strands in the same gauge cable increases its current carrying capacity. This stuff was very flexible, I could wrap it around the diameter of a beer can with no effort and it would straighten right back out, very heavy insulation too. Gary
  9. dingy
    Earl, What size motor frame do you need? voltage/phase? Shaft size? I can ask a former co-worker at a previous job. I know when I was there they had quite a few motors that weren't used on project intended for. Gary
  10. dingy
    You need to ask yourself one question. Who you gonna talk to on this CB? Put your money into a bluetooth setup and step bravely into the 21st century. Gary
  11. dingy
    Okay, I thought you rode a 1st gen, must have been wrong as slow as you are. Key words here I have the washers you need. In order for, you to have the washers you need, an address would be helpful. Or I could post a picture of them, if that would help. Gary
  12. dingy
    4 gauge wires are better. McMaster Carr has parts needed. I used 4 gauge welding cable, you need about 6 feet. 17818A11410 Ft.Heavy Duty Welding Cable, #4 Cable Size, .420" Overall Od, 10' Length 37113K2491 PackStandard Crimp-on Ring Terminal, Noninsulated, 4 Wire Gauge, 1/4" Stud The starter is grounded right to the block, I did add awire from it to ground point on block, but it was an anal type thing, probably didn't help. Gary
  13. dingy
    1993 and up are 4 brush. Picture attached shows difference, 4 brush starter does not have the 4 screws around the midline holding coils in. The bottom one in picture is 4 brush, it's partly disassembled in picture. Gary
  14. dingy
    I have the lock washers you need. Gary
  15. dingy
    I am sure I have spare wave washers, I will check tonight & see what I have in the way of spare oil locks. Gary
  16. dingy
    Guessing you meant to enclose picture, but it is probably main diagphragm. If there are any holes, they are junk. Even pinholes. Not cheap. There is an ebay seller that has a set much cheaper. One of the guys here replaced mine on the slides for me when I bought set ion ebay. They are $87.57 each from partshark.com 41R-14940-09-00 20 DIAPHRAGM 41R-14940-09-00 (replaces 41R14940-00-00) 1 $133.84 $87.57 Gary
  17. dingy
    That was not a bad performance considering it was a one time show and the amount of preparation & choreographing that went into it.. Better than many I have seen. Gary
  18. dingy
    Oil lock is shown in green in attached CAD drawing of fork cut section. It probably should be shown up against the inner fork tube (light blue tube). If is scratched up or nicked it is damaged. Gary
  19. dingy
    Have you gotten the bottom screw out? Do you have the spring retainer for the fork seal out? If both are yes, then in my opinion, you can use the upper tube to slam the seal out of the lower tube housing. Gary
  20. dingy
    It's the valve cover rubber grommet, List $9.84 $6.85 at partshark.com RUBBER, MOUNT 1 5EA-1111G-00-00 (replaces 4KG-1111G-00-00) 16 $9.84 $6.85 Hard to think they went bad in 7 years. Your dealer thanks you. Gary
  21. dingy
    This is a post I did 2 years ago relating to RLU operation This is what I have found with the operation of a working system on an 1988 wiring setup. I have just verified this information on my bike. I have independent spade lug terminals hooking up to the headlight plug in the wiring harness,due to my projector headlights, so it is easy to simulate burnt out bulb conditions. The reserve lighting unit is located on the right side of the headlight unit. When the dimmer switch is set to LOW and low beam lamp is not functioning, the reserve unit illuminates the high beam lamp at a reduced voltage, this keeps from blinding oncoming traffic. The dash white indicator light "Headlamp" is illuminated. CMU Headlight icon is displayed. When the dimmer switch is set to LOW and High beam lamp is not functioning. The dash white indicator light "Headlamp" is not illuminated. CMU Headlight icon is displayed. When the dimmer switch is set to HIGH and High beam lamp is not functioning, the reserve unit illuminates the low beam lamp at a near normal voltage. The dash white indicator light "Headlamp" is illuminated. CMU Headlight icon is displayed. The "High beam" indicator is lit. When the dimmer switch is set to HIGH and Low beam lamp is not functioning. The dash white indicator light "Headlamp" is not illuminated. CMU Headlight icon is displayed. The "High beam" indicator is lit. When both lights are not functioning, only the CMU icon is displayed when Low beam is selected. When HIGH beam is selected, the dash white indicator light "Headlamp" is illuminated. CMU Headlight icon is displayed. And the "High beam" indicator is lit. Assuming the wiring diagrams are correct, the high and low beam run through the CMU. There is an input circuit and an output circuit for both the high and low beams. The reserve lighting unit is where the input wire from the headlight fuse goes first. I am guessing that the current on this wire is used to determine if the lamps are lit or not. Last paragraphs are based on this assumption. If the Low beam is selected at the dimmer switch, a positive voltage is sent to the CMU, which then passes that voltage back to the headlamp. If headlamp is burning, reserve lighting unit does nothing. It senses normal current on feed wire, and it is getting voltage on its low side input. If the High beam is selected at the dimmer switch, a positive voltage is sent to the CMU, which then passes that voltage back to the headlamp. If headlamp is NOT burning, reserve lighting unit senses very low current on feed wire (some current consumed in CMU), and it is getting voltage on its low side input. The reserve lighting unit then outputs reduced positive voltage on the High beam circuit, thus illuminating High beam and signaling CMU that low beam filimant is burnt out. If the High beam is selected at the dimmer switch, a positive voltage is sent to the CMU, which then passes that voltage back to the headlamp. If headlamp is lit, reserve lighting unit lights the High beam indicator lamp. It senses normal current on feed wire, and it is getting voltage on its high side input. If it is not lit, the reserve lighting unit outputs positive voltage on the low beam circuit, thus illuminating low beam and signaling CMU that high beam filament is burnt out. Gary
  22. dingy
    I have a spare RLU. PM me As far as the 2 screws, you have 2 choices. 1st is toolbox, 2nd is start tearing it back apart and you may remember. Gary
  23. dingy
    Yes there is. Trash them. You will find turning a motorcycle rotor is far different than turning a car rotor, these will not surface cut well due to hardness of material. On a car rotor, there is extra stock to allow some clean up. A MC rotor is in some cases only 5mm thick, which is .196" for us yankees. There is no extra stock on these to turn down. Your 83 are probably 8mm thick in stock condition, which is .314". I seem to remember they are cored on the inside for air cooling which makes turning them that much more difficult. Gary
  24. dingy
    Since he has the 83-85 barnett style clutch, Skydoc17's PCW spring upgrade will not fit. I mentioned this in 2nd post, my bad. Gary
  25. dingy
    I am getting the latest version of the TCIP4 units. It has actual MAP features based on pressure. Also has enhanced inputs on the two kill inputs. Now has enhanced outputs with more options, appears two have 2 outputs based on RPM's & vacuum. One can be used for a shift light and other for a drag racing type launch RPM. These 2 will appeal to the VMax group. If you are getting one of my units I have a MAP sensor coming for it, I just don't have any spares. Gary
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