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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    What I showed were shamelessly stolen from VMax site. I did use the 2nd way of lining up cutout in float with casting mark and it was fairly close, but not just where I wanted them. Ended up tweaking a little more. Gary
  2. dingy
    Finally working. There was an IMAP setup button, that the providers site did not say to use . Ran that and it auto setup with different ports than what providers site showed. Thanks for all the suggestions. Most of which I just tried. Gary
  3. dingy
    See 1st attached picture below for one way. Other way is with carb inverted, the half moon cutout in the top (normal orientation) should be aligned with the round casting mark on the jet block. 2nd picture shows closeup of jet block. Round casting mark to left centered on middle tube. Gary
  4. dingy
    This would be a non standard for the MKII 1st gens. They normally use a 282mm x 7mm wide. 1st gen MKI use a 298, but it is 8.5 mm, I think. The RSV is 298mm x 5mm. The narrower width would be helpful. Gary
  5. dingy
    Sometimes ya got to let the bait soak awhile !! Gary
  6. dingy
    Link below is setup page from hover.com https://www.hover.com/help/setup-your-hover-email It does indicate the mail.hover.com in both in & out. I checked my Iphone & both in & out are mail.hover.com Gary
  7. dingy
    I am trying to get Outlook 2010 trial version set up so I can transfer my old email & contacts to Thunderbird. I have outlook running, Windows 7 Pro version, Avast Internet virus software. I can get to the point where it is sending test mail, but then it just sits there. I have tried shutting down avast & explorer firewall, but no change. Screen shots attached below. Any suggestions? Gary
  8. dingy
    go here to get a copy of the 2005-2009 RSTD service manual. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ad.php?t=58269 Gary
  9. dingy
    Will RSV front rotors bolt up to a 1st gen. front wheel ?? I need a set of 298 dia. rotors for the front wheel. Gary
  10. dingy
    You subscribe to every thread you post to? That has got to be a lot of notifications, as you are one of the more active members. Gary
  11. dingy
    Yes. If I know that you are putting this on an 83, I will supply a plug for the unused carb port. I did this on the last group. Gary
  12. dingy
    Plug & Play, no wiring changes needed. Curve is similar yo a stock setup if you want that. I have a more advanced curve I have put in the VMax units. But just putting that in a Venture with out the upgrades a VMax does would not run as well. Gary
  13. dingy

    MSN

    dingy replied to Yammer Dan's topic in Watering Hole

    Try looking in the folder below, not sure if it is same on your system, but favorites folder may be here. C:\Users\(your sign on here)\Favorites You are looking for a directory 'Favorites' This is path on my windows 7 On XP it may be something like this C:\Documents and Settings\(your sign on here)\My Documents\Favorites Gary
  14. dingy
    Randy, didn't you get the PM? We were going to withhold information till he paid up. He has been here less than 2 weeks and we are strong arming the newbies. Gary You have been ... http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/Goose.jpg ..ED
  15. dingy
    Goose is correct, I screwed up the side stand continuity in second post. I edited that post to correct it. Attached below is a copy of the starting circuits from the 2004 service manual for a Royal Star Tour Deluxe (XVZ13CTT) and a copy of the wiring diagram from the service manual that I now have. Gary
  16. dingy
    I was shooting ordering them around the 1st of February. Give me a call at home, listed in my profile. Gary
  17. dingy
    I just realized that you have a Royal Star. I have not reworked a schematic for that model. If someone would get me a copy of the factory version of the schematic I will try to redo it and get it posted here. A high res scan will work or a PDF, or a copy in the mail. Also a link to where I can download it. And my usual disclaimer, I have a 1st gen, so I have no hands on experience with either an RSV or RS. Gary
  18. dingy
    I just had a question asked by pm about what the rev limiter setting would be at. Whatever you want, I can tailor each one to specific needs. Factory tach redline is 7,500. One of the people interested has VMax heads on his Venture, it will be good at 8,500 at least. I have mine set at 9,200. Rev limiter is not the total shutdown type. When it is crossed, the TCI cuts out a couple of cylinders intermitetly, similar to FJR style. Also, any of the TCI parameters are changable by end user, with a laptop PC and an adapter cable, or a com port & cable on laptop. I actually don't program them in garage, I made a DC power adapter hookup for the TCI I can plug each one into & program at my desk. I do plug each one of the 83-89 units into my bike & start it so I can verify its working, but I can't with the 90-93's. I haven't found one that didn't work first time yet. Gary
  19. dingy
    Set your meter on the lowest avaliable ohms scale to check this. 20K ohms scale on a 3 1/2 segment digital meter will show 0 ohms when 100 ohm resistor is checked. If you have a higher end meter like a Fluke that has auto scaling, set it to manual, and set range where only ohm symbol is showing, not an M or K by it. This will give you best reading when looking for a poor continuity contact. If you are using an analog meter (with needle) set to lowest ohm range still. Any ohm reading must be taken with switch disconnected from circuit. DO NOT take an ohm reading on harness end of cable with an analog type meter (or digital for that matter). There are circuits in an analog meter called shunt circuits, which can put enough current back into the cable & into the TCI to destroy it. Gary
  20. dingy
    Sure can. It is just a variation of the timing curve and rev limiter settings. Gary
  21. dingy
    Last year he set up Thursday night. Didn't do any painting, just brought some stuff & set it up. Gary
  22. dingy
    You could just use straight anti-freeze on them. The glycol in anti freeze will act as a lubricant & then be compatible. Gary
  23. dingy
    A quick and easy way to check vacuum sensor that Usally will work is to have the bike idleing smoothly at a consistent RPM. Disconnect hose that is generally connected to the #2 intake manifold & plug the manifold port with a plug. Apply a vacuum to the hose that goes to the boost sensor, the old fashioned way of sucking on the hose is my choice, because it is quick and repeatable. You want to note if the RPM's change when suction is quickly applied to hose. If they do, then the sensor is likely functioning. What this is doing is signaling the TCI to change the ignition timing advance, which will change RPM at idle. This will be a subtle, but noticable change in RPM's. to get oil taste to go away !!! Gary
  24. dingy
    That ain't naked, this is. Gary
  25. dingy
    Here is an update on mounting Radial brakes on scooter. I have had a rapid prototype made of a bracket that I designed in Solid Edge CAD. It was made using a Dimension 3D printer which is a fused deposit process. The local high school has a machine and they made the prototype out of an ABS like material for $65 from my CAD model. It is very close for a first try at it. I was hoping to only need one bracket that would fit both the left & right sides, but that plan isn't going to work. Bracket is symmetrical from the center line allowing it to work on either side. The rotor retaining screws are just touching bracket though. I will have to make a left and right final bracket with a relief cut to clear the rotor screws. Functional parts will be made from 6061-T6 aluminum. I have ran FEA analysis on model and it has a 4x safety rating over anticipated rotational torque forces. It is a close fit centering caliper over rotor. This came off a bike with 5mm rotors and the 1st gen MKII are 7mm wide. This is leaving about .020" clearance on either side of the caliper body. I plan on refining this model a little more and getting another prototype made before moving to a machined aluminum set. 1st & 2nd pictures are CAD models, next to last picture shows rotor to caliper clearance and last picture is what caliper looked like on original mount. Gary
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