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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Test rides are scheduled for 8:00 - 10:00 Thursday morning. But unless there is a cancellation, all appointments are filled. Thank you for your interest. Gary
  2. dingy
    Please say it won't do that. I have 5 cans and I don't want to throw them away. Gary
  3. dingy
    Is NASCAR also going to Ethynol this year to? If they are, then the EFI may be part of this change over. As far as a cost saving on gas, assuming 10,000 miles a year rode, gas at $4.00 a gallon & 40 MPG. This would be a cost of $0.10 a mile, $1,000 for the year. Even with a 10% increase in fuel economy or about $100 a year savings. You would look at a 16 year payoff considering just parts for the referenced kit is about $1,600. I got my 6 caliper brake & N2O project for this year. Gary
  4. dingy
    And the Bling factor is my motivation on many things. EFI is good for the enviroment & economy, but not horsepower. You don't see many race engines using it. It would be a fun winter project for you. Gary
  5. dingy
    If the motor is firing on #2 cylinder, the tach issue is not in the TCI (CDI is different technology). I don't know an easy way to check the signal the tach is getting without an occiliscope. But if coil is firing, it would then fall to a wiring issue to the tach head. If tach is fluctuating, try a seperate RPM reading source. There are low cost meters that wrap a sensor wire around a spark plug wire & give a digital readout. This may give an indication of an RPM fluctuation that would then be an indication that #2 is loosing the firing signal from the TCI. Gary
  6. dingy
    What is it that you would expect from an EFI system? Gary
  7. dingy
    Attached are a few of pictures of the neutral switch. The 83 will only have 1 contact though. Also clean the contact on the case side. Gary
  8. dingy
    I have had my motor tore down last to winters, both were for performance enhancements, not mechanical problems. Both times I have coated fiber gaskets in motor oil. They came of rather easy on 2nd tear down & no leakage problems. The oil tends to swell the fiber gasket just a tad, then when it is torqued down it is squeezed in place. Clean and seal around the two wire packs for sure. Slide grommet out of stator cover, clean and coat all around. Slide grommets down on wires a little & coat wires, then slide grommet back in place. These wires are a PIA for leaking. Also clean & lube shifter linkage ball joints while in there, it helps. Gary
  9. dingy
    Somewhere in my head, one of the voices are saying this could be a problem. I seem to recall someone had an issue trying to do that. The gasket acts as a shim and there may have been a clearance issue. Sometimes the voices are wrong though. Gary
  10. dingy
    Attached are 2 pictures that will help you with that. Gary
  11. dingy
    When you put the cover back on, the magnets are going to make it hard to line up over the starter dowels. It takes some force to get it on. Also clean gasket surfaces, and seal around 2 sets of wires exiting rear side. Gary
  12. dingy
    Once again, I'm there for you. Actually had this in my library. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/deadhorse-1.gif Gary
  13. dingy
    Was this the guys behind the locked doors? Gary
  14. dingy
    There is no provision in the 83 harness for any of the extra cruise circuits. Gary
  15. dingy
    I have these parts for sure. Rear brake switch Throttle cables & junction box Cruise diaphragm unit Cruise controller module You can have them for shipping costs. Gary
  16. dingy
    Vacuum does not come from the TCI pickup. The cruise has a separate vacuum pump. The vacuum is not actually 180 degs out on the motor, only the pickup point for the TCI is above the butterfly's. This is 'ported' vacuum and it is 180 degs out from normal manifold vacuum readings. All 1st gens have the reed switch in the cluster, it is also used for the turn signal self cancel circuit. It would depend on what wiring harness he has as to if a MKI cruise could be used. It would be somewhat easier. It may not require cluster or key bezel change. Gary
  17. dingy
    This is not a real easy thing to do. But if you have the wiring harness it is a start. This was the first thing I started on when I began surgery on my 83 VenMax. And really I use the cruise very little. It is a lot of time & resources for your first big rehab of the bike. You would get a lot more bang for your buck with reworking front end with progressive springs & MKII brakes. These are useful every mile your on the bike. I have some of these items as spares. Here is list of things that need to be changed from the 83 to a 86 -93 with cruise: Front brake master switch Clutch master switch Rear brake master switch Throttle cables & junction box Throttle side start switch housing Instrument cluster - complete Bezel that surrounds key switch Wiring harness You need to add following: Cruise vacuum pump Cruise diaphragm unit Cruise controller module Gary
  18. dingy
    This would help when you do steering bearings, it is a duplicate of the tool called for in the service manual that Yamaha thinks is worth $70 or more. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3582&title=steering-head-bearing-ring-nut-wrench&cat=33 Also known as a shameless plug to help my sales. Marketing has been on my butt. Gary
  19. dingy
    PM me an email & I will send some stuff to you. I can't send attachments via this site due to security settings on site. What year bike? Any major power train mods? Gary
  20. dingy
    Below is a write up on cleaning the switch. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42720 If problem is that retaining tab has broken on plastic housing you can drill and tap for a small (4mm) screw to hold it in. I did this on my clutch side switch and it has worked for a couple of years ok. Gary
  21. dingy
    I think stock wires are 7mm. I know 8mm will fit in coil end caps, but it is a very snug fit. I don't have coil wires any more, so I can't verify. In my opinion, you don't need resistor caps & resistor spark plugs, which stock plugs are. Go to your favorite parts store and see what they have for a 4 cylinder car that is 7 or 8mm and boot fits spark plug. Make sure lengths are good. If you take a razor blade & cut a crosscut on the coil end about an 1/8" deep it will help aftermarket wire slide on prong inside coil. Gary
  22. dingy
    Experiences, both good & bad is what shapes our lives. It's the wise ones that learn from the bad experiences as well as the good ones. In other words, "Dang, I ain't trying that crap again" !! Gary
  23. dingy
    When you do your fork seals, get OEM seals,Genuine Yamaha. Not cheap but worth it. Many here have expressed problems with aftermarket seals. I have tried two different 3rd party seals & both leak some. Last set was ALL-Balls with three wiper lips & it leaked. I have a set of OEM's going in this winter. Also doing upper & lower fork bushings to be sure. Gary
  24. dingy
    Attached below are a few pictures of a 1st gen petcock. Greg said it had a 3-4" long bar. It's more like an inch long. And, Greg, being from England, said to get your torch out and look for leak. In the states, we call what he meant a flashlight. Torch is bad around gas. Gary
  25. dingy
    Shipped out tonight, said you should get them about the 3rd. Gary
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