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Everything posted by dingy
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RSV performance cam kit?
dingy replied to mike_waldman56's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
It has been done on VMaxs, prices I have seen have been 5K and up. Those bikes then went with a chain drive. Gary -
You are correct, also useful in motocross to clean pads. For the somewhat sane riding we do though, I think lowered contact area hurts the performance more than the other benefits help. Somewhat interesting web site linked. http://fsae.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/125607348/m/20710854521 Gary
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Below is a link to a set that will work for my radial brake project & the 1st gen MKI's that are a little more to my liking. http://www.ebay.com/itm/140639501742?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 They still have the cross drilled holes, which may be very helpful with these narrower rotors to dissipate heat. The 5mm rotors will tend to heat up more than the stock 8.5mm width rotors. The same amount of clamping force/friction will be required to stop a given bike with either width rotor. The 8.5mm rotors will have more mass to adsorb the heat generated by the friction and dissipate it without warping. Another consideration that needs to be considered is that a 5mm rotor is 3.5mm (.1377") narrower than a stock 8.5mm rotor. The inner face of the 5mm rotor will be in the same plane as the stock 8.5mm rotor up against the rim face. The outer face will be offset the 3.5mm. This will cause the outer piston on the rotor to be pushed out of the caliper body by the 3.5mm. This is quite a bit and may cause the piston to pass the sealing point of the caliper seal. A solution would be to shim between the caliper body and the fork mount ears by 1.75mm (.0688") or half the offset amount. A 1/16" stainless washer with an O.D. matching the contact area would accomplish this. Gary
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RSV performance cam kit?
dingy replied to mike_waldman56's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
If the question is a 1st gen VMax into a 1st gen Venture, then the engine is a drop in right up to the point of the carbs then it gets a little complicated. The carbs set at least a 1/2" higher on a Vmax than on a Venture. This makes the top of the left rear carb touch the upper frame rail when putting carbs in. Also choke & throttle cables need reworked. Air box needs to retain the Venture one unless battery is relocated. The wiring needs to be altered for the VBoost controller. There is a very long shot that a 2nd gen VMax might fit as well. The stroke length is the same from a 1st gen to a 2nd gen Vmax, which means the overall configuration of the block may have remained the same with only the bore being increased. I doubt it would work, but if funding were to become available in the form of generous donations, I will give it a shot. More of an issue than the block would be the rear swing arm would need reworked in order to get an adequate tire on it. This has been done on 1st gen VMaxs, but is is not for the faint of heart. Best one I have found added another universal joint on rear drive to get shaft offset more. Gary -
Should the air shocks bleed air over time?
dingy replied to jurob's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
The rear shock has one air line coming into it. The other connector going into shock is the damper adjustment cable, this is a mechanical cable, not an air line. I believe there also is a connection between 2 lines to the rear shock on the right frame rail. This is just a connection, not a tee, but it needs to be checked if you are having leaks. And make sure your wrenches are on the correct points of this connection to check, I twisted first one off by screwing this up. I don't recall if line screws in or is permanent, but I would guess it screws in judging from picture I attached. Gary -
Nice looking rotors and you are correct about the year being off, these will only work on 83-85. A couple of issues I have with the 'Wave' style rotors is the reduced pad contact area. The waves come into the pad area, thus reducing the square inch area the pads are contacting on the rotors. Especially when coupled with the slot that is cut internally on the pad area. Other thing that might be an issue, maybe not, is the leading edge of the cutouts may cut into the pad ever so slightly every time they cross pad on each rotation with brakes applied, thus reducing pad life. Gary
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I have a spare filter housing somewhere if you need it. I think it was powder coated red though. I got a spin on adapter & don't need it. Gary
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Second Ignitech Aftermarket TCI group buy
dingy replied to dingy's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I have a number of payments received so far, if it is like last time I did this there will be a flurry of activity last few days before I get order placed. Several of the people that have posted to this thread are participating, if they want to post they are involved that's fine, I try to refrain from naming people that have done business with me in general. It seems like a better way to do it. I don't mind stating numbers, but in general, not specific ID's. Gary -
You're having a heck of a conversation with your self Dan. Are the voices in your head posting back to you??? Gary
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Tachometer Testing
dingy replied to twigg's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Again, I am at work trying to wing this. The grey would not be interupted to ground, it should be grounded when key is on and engine not running. The TCI should make this circuit go open when the coil is signaled to fire. This causes the coil to become de-energised and the field collapses, thus inducing voltage into the secondary of the coil, causing the secondary to build a high potential difference voltage across the spark plug, which then arcs. The grey wire should read 12vdc when read to the positive terminal of battery at key on - bike not running. It will go open every other revolution on 83-89 bikes with stock TCI. On 90-93 bikes this occurs every revolution with a stock TCI. The ignitech unit also does same every revolution on 83-93 bikes. This is not like a set of points on a car, it is triggered by the stator magnets moving by the pickup coils with sufficient speed to induce a current in pickup coils to trigger TCI. In other words, you will not see the grey wire go open if you slowly rotate crank shaft. Only do checks on this with a digital meter. Analog meters are not good to use on circuits that have electronics components in them. Gary -
Tachometer Testing
dingy replied to twigg's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I got to quit posting at work, no reference material to check. Carl is correct, 12vdc- is side that is interupted, not 12vdc+ as I said earlier. So put positve side of voltmeter on positve terminal of battery and with negative terminal read grey wire. Gary -
How to determin model number?
dingy replied to cabreco's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
That chart doesn't match any of the with years I am close to being sure of. Gary -
Tachometer Testing
dingy replied to twigg's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
The grey wire is tied directly to the grey wire that triggers #2 cylinder coil. This connection is in wiring warness. With the key on, all the coils receive a 12vdc signal from the TCI, this signal is interuped at the instant the coil is to fire, as signaled by TCI. FYI, this is the opposite of the way a CDI works, the coils are normally 0VDC, and when signaled to fire they receive a 12vdc pulse from CDI. With the 12VDC signal on the coil normally, the grey wire in the instrument head could be probed to see if it has this 12vdc on it. If it does, then that wire & connection is good. Gary -
How to determin model number?
dingy replied to cabreco's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Jason, What is the rest of the year codes. S = 86 My guess based on schematics is: 83 = L 84 = K 86 = S 88 = U 90 = A Any ideas on missing years? Gary -
-3 Degrees F. this morning. This is in North Central Ohio. Gary
- 99 replies
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- customs
- evaluation
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Will RSV front Rotors bolt up to aMKII 1st front wheel ??
dingy replied to dingy's topic in Watering Hole
Yes I am. Need the larger rotors for my radial brake experiment. There are wave rotors on ebay, but I am not warm & fuzzy with the pad surface having those large indentations in the contact area. Would have to reduce the effectiveness of the brakes as well as cause erosion of the pad surface, IMHO. Gary -
wanted 1st gen mkII brake lines
dingy replied to mother's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
See if this helps you any. Here is a list of lines I had from my 1st gen 83 Should be same as MKII, except you don't need the anti dive valve hoses. And the MKII with upper burp valve is listed instead of the MKI. Don't have a picture of it though. Gary Rear Master to front steel line at rear master. 4 3/4" from face of 10mm fitting to C/L of banjo fitting Banjo @ 15 deg. Front metering valve. (This line is from a 1988 bike with the upper bleeder port) 8 5/16" from face of 10mm fitting at top bleeder to C/L of double banjo fitting 33 3/4" from C/L of double banjo fitting to C/L of banjo fitting at brake caliper. Bottom banjo fitting 15 deg. Front master to brake caliper 44 1/4" C/L to C/L Top fitting 45 deg. Bottom fitting 15 deg. Two banjo fittings are in line with a combined angle of 60 deg. Anti dive valve 11 1/2" C/L to C/L of banjo fittings. Top clutch line 22 1/2" C/L banjo fitting to face of 10 mm fitting Banjo fitting 15 deg. Lower Clutch line 8 1/2" C/L banjo fitting to face of 10 mm fitting -
None of the 1st gen starters are 4 brush. Only the RSV's & VMax's newer than 1993. Attached picture shows how to tell difference from outside. A 2 brush starter has 4 screws around the center line which hold coils in place. 4 brush starter do not have these screws as coils are epoxied in place. Bottom starter (4 brush) has armature out of it in picture. Gary
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The rear end housing isn't real thick, so it would be easy to strip the threads in a small screw. The outside nut is to allow higher torque on screw. Gary
- 85 replies
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- dingy
- ground upgrade
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Close. Put the cover on and bench test just the one carb body. Gently clamp in vice & check that top is level. Supply gas someway that looks safer than what I did, then check. Much easier than putting on bike then taking off. I think I have to many friggin pictures, I know I took a picture of something, but were in the heck I put it is mind boggling. I must have a few thousand pictures of my bike. Gary
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Should the air shocks bleed air over time?
dingy replied to jurob's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
See attached PDF for front air line routing. It is on left side. Then, do this. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58880 Gary -
I did not use the float seat from the VMax rebuild kit. Left old one in. I did reverse blow out the filter screen that is in with the float seat. I did use the new float needle valve. I ended up cutting a little of the spring wire retainer on the needle valve to get them to engage right. 2nd pic, top needle valve is VMax, I cut very upper leg off to match lower Venture valve. The number shown is 1.117", but as Carl said it looks to low. I attached another pic, I think this one shows lining up with float cutout, but I am not positive. This one looks more realistic to me for an initial starting point. Gary
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Will RSV front Rotors bolt up to aMKII 1st front wheel ??
dingy replied to dingy's topic in Watering Hole
I misread your post and thought you had a spare set of RSV rotors. Gary -
Will RSV front Rotors bolt up to aMKII 1st front wheel ??
dingy replied to dingy's topic in Watering Hole
Would you want to part company with those rotors ?? Gary