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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    I don't plan on it. Also, one of many tips I have for this project is, when you go to put motor back in frame, pull the swing arm off. It makes it soooo much easier to get in or out. One of many lessons I have learned the frustrating way. Gary
  2. dingy
    I know that the general and best recommendation for this connection is soldering it. But if you need to take this out sometime in future, the wires are then that much shorter to solder next time. Its the old connections that get fatigued with age that seem to be a problem. That being said, I like to retain this plug feature for the simple reason I am in this bike tweaking it constantly. I have in the classifieds a new connection that is a direct replacement for the stator to wiring harness. Not making a fortune on these, its just something I came across that might be wanted by a few. $12.00 including shipping. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3752&title=1st-gen-stator-connector-replacement&cat=33 Gary
  3. dingy
    Attached are links to the wiring diagrams for the 1st gens. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42384 Also in this Tech forum are some other articles to help with electrical gremlins. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=68 Gary
  4. dingy
    The high temp powder coat I am somewhat familiar with is a ceramic type material. Look at columbiacoatings.com I think it is first fired in an oven to preset it, then it is ran on the bike to heat it up far enough to permanently fuse it. Not positive. Also, I think it is more of a wet type application than the powder. Maybe. Gary
  5. dingy
    Everything from the 83 will fit on it with exception of clutch cover. If you put the clutch from the 83 in it, then the 83 cover will also fit. When you say 83 internals, as far as I know, only thing not usable would be the pistons & rods. Your carbs will work, a newer set from an MKII at some point would be better, but I rode my 1300 with the carbs from the 83 for a year and it was fine. The MKII/VMax set were an improvement, but not required. When I got my 88 donor bike from MiCarl, the block was about all I used from it, rest was either from the 83, or the VMax heads. I even used my side covers, except for the clutch due to the 83's were in better cosmetic shape. Gary
  6. dingy
    You need to roughen the chrome up somewhat to give the powder coat a surface to adhere to. It should be blasted with sand, not glass bead or similar materials. The sand will cut into the chrome some. I did a tach housing for Bubber last year and he had blasted it with sand before I coated it and it came out nice. I looked at some pictures of it and he took it down to bare metal actually. Gary
  7. dingy
    This is a 1300 motor, at a minimum it's 100cc's more than your 83 1200cc. These motors are close to bullet proof. If the oil filter is still on it, start by opening it up and seeing if there are metal shavings, also pull oil drain plug & check it. It will have the diaphragm type clutch in it which is easier to stiffen up than the barnett style clutch in the 83. Along with this, the clutch cover from the 83 won't fit the 88, but the 88 will fit the 83. Clutch stack up is wider with diaphragm spring style. Gary
  8. dingy
    There is nothing behind this plug. It goes into the oil galley. It can be removed with nothing flying out. Gary
  9. dingy
    7 pictures, one of a bike on a trailer. We have a winner !!! Gary
  10. dingy
    I attached a picture with an arrow pointing to the edge I am curious about. Does just this edge have a slight chamfer on it in your setup. From looking at the seal plate that I have, there is a chamfer machined in it where it would mate to part in picture. It would be a way for me to ID ones in my forks now as being wrong part if there was a chamfer there. None of the other ones I have are chamfered. Gary
  11. dingy
    If you put, or have progressives in, get a hold of Skydoc17. He makes a set of block off plates that will eliminate the next to useless anti dives. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3776&title=first-genmkii-vr-s-santi-dive-block-off-plates-21&cat=22 These electric ones are energy hogs if you are in slow traffic. Gary
  12. dingy
    I was curious as to what the bottom of the tude looked like that the oil lock slides over. Is there a chamfer one the lower edge? The seal plates I have, there is a chamfer where it would mate together. Reason I ask is, I am rebuilding my forks, maybe tomorrow, and I may have the wrong set of these tubes in my forks. Not a rush as I am stripping the red powder coat of the lowers and redoing them black. Gary
  13. dingy
    Where I might see a problem is, it looks like your new motor doesn't have the universal & middle gear shaft on it. It's not quite as easy as using your old one. There are shims in there to set the backlash on this beveled gear set. Look in service manual about checking this if you are thinking of using this motor and don't have that shaft. Gary
  14. dingy
    The 88 should bolt right in without needing to do much to it. This is what I used as the basis for my rebuild. First year I put it in I didn't split case. I did pull heads & took bottom off & pulled pistons, honed cylinders. I put VMax heads on that year. Last year I pulled motor again for performance enhancements & split case. Splitting the case is a much more involved process, but nothing to shy away from. Main reason I split case was so I could have the block/head surface milled .040" to boost compression. 2nd gear is not an issue with 86 & up motors. Gary
  15. dingy
    This bushing is not 'floating'. This is the part that was hanging up when you were trying to separate upper & lower tubes. It needs to be 'driven' into place. There was a post prior that showed a tool Snag, or someone else made to do this. I have a piece of 1 1/2" PVC pipe that will slide over inner tube. I have spare washers from extra fork sets that I use one of over the top of the bushing that needs driven in. This keeps pvc pipe from getting mangled on end. This bushing will be flush with the counterbore in the lower tube when seated. Gary
  16. dingy
    Attached are some pictures of a cut away of a 1988 fork and the oil lock & piece in question (seal plate). Also (CYLINDER COMP., front fork) per parts fiche I think I see how it goes together. The pocket in the bottom of the lower fork tube is different on the 88-93 versions, last picture shows a cut away of an 86 tube on top, and a 88 tube on bottom. The arent cut to the same length though. The lower tube has a pocket large enough to let this seal plate set in it. It wont set in the upper tube correctly. 5th picture shows it setting in the tube. 4th picture shows parts stack up with out thin washers I may not have the correct (CYLINDER COMP., front fork) mated up. I have quite a few off these. None of ones I can locate have the chamfer on the bottom, they may be in bike. I will know in a day or so if they are. KIC, post a picture of the bottom of the (CYLINDER COMP., front fork) that you have. On the seal plate I have, there is a chamfer on the ID where this (CYLINDER COMP., front fork) part would mate up to. There are also some marks on upper face that look to be correct size for bottom of oil lock. Gary
  17. dingy
    I just looked at each years parts fiche, and that part was added in 1988 through 1993. It is called (30) 2WR-2318U-00-00 . PLATE, seat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Picture is what Rocket posted. Gary
  18. dingy
    Haven't had mine on for two years since I went to Bikini cut on side panels. Little warmer like Snag said, but not that bad. Gary
  19. dingy
    As MiCarl said, there is nothing holding these in place other than the friction of two o-rings in each one. Light tapping around the bottom surface towards top of tube should loosen them up. Maybe some WD-40 in both sides would help. As plan 'B', I have spares if you fubar them up. Gary
  20. dingy
    Just how old do you need to be for this to happen? I hope I got a few more years before this sets in. Gary
  21. dingy
    Now that's some funny bull poopy right there, I don't care who you are.. Gary
  22. dingy
    How do you determine when an engineer is overpaid?? Gary
  23. dingy
    That won't work with 86-87 forks, I'm sure on this. Look at picture I posted above, axle does not stick through fork much at all. Gary
  24. dingy
    How does it do this? Gary
  25. dingy
    And I have 2 of them on work bench that would probably fit it, but I am not sure. They are of VMax's that I got from pinwall just for the spacers on them. Need them when I put VMax rim on. I don't have my wheel of at this point to be able to check them. Gary
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