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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    I got mine today. Thanks, Gary
  2. dingy
    They do screw into cam caps. You MUST fix this cap though. The cam caps are installed in the heads at the factory, then line bored. You will be asking for a spun cam bearing if you try and replace it with another cap from a different head. Gary
  3. dingy
    I think any pictures would help with that eloquent description. What the heck did you just say???? Gary
  4. dingy
    I am very sorry for your loss. Gary
  5. dingy
    Its been a good week for selling stuff. Just sent Dan another small donation. I hope he gets better, I may need a starter clutch in the near future. When I was testing all the TCI's with a bunch of starts, it made the bad noise in starter area. Gary
  6. dingy
    The bike??? Or something else???? Gary
  7. dingy
    The Vboost ties the front & rear carbs together on each side below the throttle plates. This then increases the fuel that is pulled in on the intake stroke. The same volume of air is pulled in, it just comes from two fuel sources breathing through the same air filter. As Freebird says, it won't work. I tried it when bike was stock & ended up with duct tape over four 3/4" holes. Gary
  8. dingy
    Maybe I can help with your fixation on the 409 cc's part. It is meaningless. There are differences in the upper & lower fork tubes from an MKI to an early MKII to a late MKII which will cause this number to vary. This is one of those items that got carried over from the begining of the Ventures history and never got corrected/checked/verified. There are many such things in the service manual/parts fiches. This presents you with a great oppurtunity to hone your investigative skills. After you are satisfied with the 5 1/2" measurement and you have stroked that lower fork tube till your arms are weak to get the air out. Get a scale capable of weighing in grams (Harbor freight has a nice one for under $20). Get a clean container, weigh it, then drain your fork oil into the container. Weigh the now semi filled container again, deduct the empty container weight. Multiply net weight (in grams) x the specific gravity for 10w oil (avg is .93). This number should represent the amount of cc's of the drained oil. Interogate the forks to assertain how much oil is not being forthecoming through the drain hole, add the amount that was not surrendered volintarily and there you have it, simple as that. Be sure and post your findings, I am on pins and needles. Plus it took most of my lunch to type this. Gary
  9. dingy
    Ok, I have tried the electric eraser with pink pearls, succeded in wearing through adhesive, but this will take days... Tried Lacquer thinner..doesn't touch it. Contractor solvent (says works 100% of time on label)... water would be better Powder coat prep...not a dent tried duct tape...that was recommended by a friend, will wait till morning to peel off... not much hope for this. Goo Gone....nothing Gumout carb cleaner & goof off ....Knocked it right off!!! Going to see what it does to paint tomorrow. I am sanding & repainting it. Both of these have xylene in them. Fairly sure this stuff has killed many lab rats. Pictures of the spare fender I am testing stuff on. Where the stripe is removed feels good. There is some bubbling of paint in picture, that was from excessive use of heat gun. What is the long term problem with the goof off? Will it not allow the new primer & paint to adhere? Gary
  10. dingy
    I think it is an integral part of the collector. Probably little chance of finding one on ebay, unless it was with a collector. Gary
  11. dingy
    Attached below are links to clean the handle bar switches and the bracke /clucth switches on the MKII 1st gen. These are located in the Technical Library - Read Only > First Gen Tech Library - READ ONLY! > Computer, Lights, Horns, Other Electrical Clutch side http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42721 Throttle side http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42433 Brakes/clutch switch http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42720 Gary
  12. dingy
    A piece of thin plexiglass like material could be fabricated into shape. Even if you cut pieces to size, then epoxied them together. Or corners can be heated and formed. A glass shop should have thin acrylic or plexiglass. Not sure if both can be formed though. Gary
  13. dingy
    I agree with what you are saying about people proofing statements here. But at the same time I try not to call bullcrap on a given statement, just because I disagree with it. There have been a few instances where I have, when I thought a given statement may present a safety issue or damage something. None of us are all knowing, even those that think they are. The moderators have made several pointed posts about not getting into peaing matches over disagreements. Gary
  14. dingy
    Attached is a PDF of the progressive instructions. I would have to think that the 5 1/2" measurement would be with the system void of air. Also note instructions say this is a Maximum oil level. In the diagram on lower left of 1st page it indicates that below 5 1/2" is a safe oil level. Oil level in shocks isn't like oil in a crankcase, the forks aren't going to run dry if you are at 7 1/2" level. IMHO it is important that they be at the same level somewhere from 5 1/2" to 7 1/2" from top of tube. No springs in tubes & forks completely compressed. The air that is pumped into top of tubes will act like a buffer. Actually the larger the air pocket there is in there, the more even the compression rate will be over the range. Now someone will soon reply that they don't put any air in theirs with progressives and this may be true in that no extra PSI's are added, but there is air in there that acts like a buffer. As the fork moves up, this air pocket increases in pressure, thus restricting the further collapse of the tubes. Gary
  15. dingy
    Hard to beleive, but I do still have an electric eraser. Justification for my unwillingness to through stuff away. Had to have been 20 years since I used it. Now to find pink pearl erasers. Thanks, Gary
  16. dingy
    How do I get the glue residue off the body panels after removing the pinstripes on a 1st gen?? I used a heat gun to soften pinstripes , then used a putty knife to remove the decal. Then thinner removed the bulk of the residue, but there is still a layer of adhesive the thinner won't touch. I can scrape it with a razor blade. I would rather not have to resort to this as I will end up nicking panels quite a bit, and time consuming. Any ideas ??? Gary
  17. dingy
    The 2 statements you made shown above may be related, but probably not the source of your handling concerns. Next time, if there is one, when you pull the front axle out, loosen the 4 cap screws holding the fork brace on. Then insert axle & tighten. Then retighten the fork brace cap screws. There is enough play in the fork brace to cause the mis-alignment issue with the axle. If you have a car floor jack, I would suggest you raise the front wheel off the ground & see if you can feel any play in the front end. Do this by putting bike on center stand then place a board thet will fit between the front headers on the jack and slowly raise it up till the rear tire just touches. Be careful here, if you go to far the bike can tip over. With the rear tire just touching the bike should be fairly stable so you can jostle the front end around. One way to see if steering head bearings are loose is to let bounce against the stop and see iff it rebounds much, it shouldn't. But it also should go over to stop freely. It's a fine line between tight & loose. While I am at it, I do sell a wrench to aid in tightening the bearings to where they should be. Shamless plug. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3327&title=steering-head-bearing-ring-nut-wrench&cat=7 Gary
  18. dingy
    They are in front of the rear header connection !! My bad !!! In picture I posted above, front of bike is to the right. Gary
  19. dingy
    The bolts can be gotten to with nothing else removed. I would put bike on center stand and get a 12mm socket & 6" extension. The are a PIA to locate, even if you know where they are. You can't see them without a mirror. Gary
  20. dingy
    There are 2 bolts that hold the collector to the motor block towards rear. I attached a picture showing stock collector along side a Marks header. Two holes are seen on top side of collector, behind where rear exhausts attach. Gary
  21. dingy
    I can't buy advertising as good as this !!!! I am glad it's working better !!!! It's scary when I put these buys together. Hoping they all work on the different bikes they go to. I sold my one I got last year on ebay to a VMax owner and he can't get his started with it. It's an 86 VMax, should be a direct plug in for the one I sent him and he can't get bike to fire with it, but it will with his old TCI. He sent it back to me to check, I plugged it right into my bike and it started right up. The guy is being very good to work with, but I don't know why it won't fire up. Gary
  22. dingy
    MarCarl knows about giving and receiving help. The all knowing forum giveth and receiveth. Ask him how we helped him get the flywheel off his bike last year. 3 or 4 days later, and a bunch of choice words was all it took. Gary
  23. dingy
    As a follow up to my post above, I did some research last night and found that I should be able to ship using the boxes I had. I had a wrench that was international & a package to pick up at PO today, so I printed info of and went back. The same clerk was one of two working & I asked her if she recalled our discussion last night (have reason to doubt her general brain functions). She said yes, and I said I had done checking and I believed I was given bad information. She said supervisor also researched it and found out I was given bad info. So apparently I am getting a written explanation from PO regarding this. I doubt it is an apology, which clerk did not offer, but rather a clarification. Gary
  24. dingy

    Facebook

    dingy replied to LtShame's topic in Watering Hole

    What does Facebook do for us that this site lacks? Will the Facebook site tend to diminish peoples involvement here, thus weakening this group? I am not in favor of seeing an alternate/rival site being started that would drain resources from what we have here. I am on Facebook, but really don't see all the hype about it. I work for a large sensor company. Several months ago there was a lot of talk about how our company needed to be on Facebook and consultants were brought in to assist with that. My thoughts were if I was a large manufacturer of say clothes dryers and I needed a sensor for a new model, I don't think I would be using Facebook as a credible source of parts. Gary
  25. dingy
    If you want to send it to me I will do them for you. I have done the ones in my 83 and it worked fine afterwards. If you can open the cover up and reseal it that will be a big help. Unsoldering the header connectors was a PIA. Gary
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