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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    1 3/4" was in 2nd gear Closer to 2" in 1st gear Gary
  2. dingy
    I didn't split the case and mess with the tranny. Everything but that, pulled pistons & honed cylinders for example. Bear in mind, it's not only the cost of the replacement parts that are needed. It's also all the gaskets, fluids, and related items that should be fixed once you are this deep into the guts of the bike. I have a list of all the gaskets & other things I used or replaced on my bike if needed. It of course goes a lot farther, but not including, the transmission repair. Gary
  3. dingy
    Here is a schematic for the RSV's with color code info. 99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Wiring Diagram Rev B.pdf Below is link to thread that contains above schematic and some other info. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42357 Gary
  4. dingy
    This is going to be an apples to oranges comparison then. I have a 2004 FJR rear end, very similar to Vmax rear end. 1988 engine. I measured right at 1 3/4" at outer edge of rear tire, with bike up on center stand. Gary
  5. dingy
    What kind of bike you got? Gary
  6. dingy
    The top fuse in the box should be wired to the top right screw terminal in the fuse block. It is the one labeled 'ACC' Schematics shows a 10 amp fuse. This terminal/fuse is energized when the key is in the 'On' or 'Accessory' positions only. Gary
  7. dingy
    The 86-93 manual shows different procedure for setting steering head. At the bottom of my first post in the thread link below is a pdf file showing the MKII procedure, which I like better than the MKI. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45268 The MKII shows tightening the nut up the releasing pressure and re torqueing. Gary
  8. dingy
    Aren't oil pressure switches just variable resistors? This would give you a changing load in the control circuit of the relay. The coil of a standard auto type relay only draws about 250 milliamps, so almost any of the powered circuits would be able to withstand that amount of increased load. Gary
  9. dingy
    Ponch and I worked at this a little over the phone a few months back. If I can find a willing guinea, pig I may try to figure it out at Don's MD. I don't have acsess to an RSV. Gary
  10. dingy
    Scotchlock and crimp connectors are for amateurs. Solder any electrical connection or it will bite you in the butt at the most inappropriate time. Gary
  11. dingy
    Ignition Cruise Fan Carb Heater Signal Fuses are only hot when switch is in RUN position. Gary
  12. dingy
    The neutral switch on the royals has 6 positions. Look in lower left corner of schematic linked to below. http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/84-85%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale%20DL%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf Also, thread below is a way to add gear position with a non-royale display. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40639 Gary
  13. dingy
    TCI is on its way to you. Gary
  14. dingy
    I was going to mount a Stebel horn working off of the standard horn button, through a relay. I was also going to keep the stock horns, both mounted on one side, Stebel on other. The stock set up I was going to use my 'PTT' switch to activate. I don't have the intercom set up anyways. The stock horns will be my polite set, the Stebel will be my get the f&$k out of my way set. Gary
  15. dingy
    I drilled two 5/8" holes in air box on my stock 83 setup. It adversely affected mid range performance significantly. I have used the same air cover a little this spring in the limited running on the re-born bike and it does not seem to have the same adverse affect with the Vmax heads. I really don't feel much change with them open or closed. I took bike out with tank cover off and duct tape over holes so I could open them up as I was riding. Gary
  16. dingy
    Depending on what you mean by "100% confirmed working" I could help you. I have an 86 TCI that I got off of ebay this winter. It came from a good running bike from a seller I have done a fair amount of purchasing from. I have had it in my bike for about a hundred miles so far and it runs as it should. I currently have a working 84 TCI in it. I could loan you the 86 if you are interested in it. Gary
  17. dingy
    The pressure you set will be retained depending on leaks in the system. The Class system will not re-pressurize the shocks as they leak down. I am able to completely unplug the control head for days at a time and shocks are still aired up. Gary
  18. dingy
    Sort of have to be logged in when you copy. Does it work if you log out before you paste in the VR site? Gary
  19. dingy
    There is a collector that just went up on ebay for $99, free shipping http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1987-87-Yamaha-Venture-Royale-1300-Exhaust-Collector-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1e5ba39f0bQQitemZ130386468619QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Item # 130386468619 Gary
  20. dingy
    The wire wound resistor for the level sensor probably has a break in it. See picture for idea what it look like. Gary
  21. dingy
    Puppy, I cleaned the contacts already in the one I sent you. Gary
  22. dingy
    I just replaced the thermostat in my 1983 bike with a automotive style unit. Murray Plus+, P/N 3758, I bought it at O'Reilly parts store. www.oreillyauto.com This was a 180 degree unit. It came with a rubber ring around flange that needed to be removed to fit into housing, otherwise it was a perfect fit. Price was $4.99. Gary
  23. dingy
    A couple of suggestions. Use either at your discretion and risk. Take a 1/8" drill and drill two holes in the cap. Makes these holes as close to center as you can, but still get into enough metal so they can stand rotational torque. You do not want drill to cut into threaded area of fork tube. You will almost for sure cut into O-ring, but these can be obtained at a hardware store, or I have some new ones in a kit I got at Harbor Freight and I can send you one. Then take a piece of steel bar, probably 3/8" thick at least, 18" or so long and an inch wide. Drill a matching pair of holes in the steel bar the same distance apart as the two holes in cap. Place two hardened dowels through holes in bar and into holes in cap. Use bar as wrench to try and unscrew cap. Tricky part will be getting holes correct distance apart in bar to match cap. Might be easier to determine distance between holes needed in cap, then drill bar first. Then match drill cap using bar as template. A couple of drill bits the same size as holes drilled could possibly be used as dowel pins. Since you have one cap off, look at it to see how deep to drill and offset of holes. Second possibility is to use dremel type cutoff wheel and cut notch in cap towards O.D. You will need a wide, and at least an 1/8" deep slot. Then take dull chisel and try to drift cap out using hammer. These are just a couple of ways that come to mind. I have a spare fork tube if all else fails. I also have a spare cap. Gary
  24. dingy
    It is the bolt that attaches the brake line to the master cylinder in this case. Banjo bolts are used at the ends of brake & clutch lines. They have a hole center drilled and then a mating hole cross drilled in shaft of threads to permit fluid to flow through them. Gary
  25. dingy
    Not unless you are Houdini. Screws are hard to get out of bowl covers sometimes with the carb rack split and setting on bench. Gary
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