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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Here is a link to re-soldering the connections in the CMU. I just did a similar repair to my CLASS system controller and that fixed it. I have a spare unit out of my 83 head I could lend you if you aren't comfy doing this. I had a problem with the head lights also on bike before its rebirthing this winter. My solution was to bypass the CMU at that point in time. I added a relay connected to the dimmer switch that directly switched hi-lo beam. I seemed to remember thinking the problem was in the reserve lighting unit. So I am not a 100% sure my CMU would correct your problem. I could re-solder terminals on yours. I would have no way of testing it though. I put an 88 wiring harness and instrument cluster in mine and they have completely different wiring hookups. I have a couple of spare reserve lighting units also. PM me. Gary
  2. dingy
    Sent email to wrong person, OPPS! Look at link below, it has an exploded view of rear suspension. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1057&highlight=swing+grease+zerks Gary
  3. dingy
    Has anyone put a mechanical oil gauge on a 1st gen? Where would be a good place to tap into a oil feed location. I am looking at tapping into the line that comes out of the 'Twinkie' and runs to each cylinder head. Any better suggestion? Gary
  4. dingy
    See this link. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=515 Sent you an email with some other pictures. Gary
  5. dingy
    I am going to go out on a limb here and recommend you do not do what Skydoc said in regards to the impact driver. Attached is a picture of the clutch slave cylinder. On the right side is the bleeder screw setting on the long skinny arm. This arm is about 1/2" square and has a hole through it. It is about 1 7/8" long. Aluminum casting. If you hit down on this with a hand impact driver and a hammer with enough force to break bleeder loose, I will put some serious money on the next thing you will be doing is fishing the broken end of that casting out of the bottom of the bike. My suggestion would be to get a 10 mm, 6 point socket. Attach this to a long handle ratchet and somewhat softly, yet firmly, bump the ratchet handle with a hammer. The shock MIGHT loosen the bleeder screw. As best you can hold the socket with free hand to try to reduce the overall rotational twisting action. Do this after letting the bleeder soak in some penetrating oil. I am not an official mechanic, mind you. But I did stay at a Holiday Inn a couple of times. Gary [ATTACH]44065[/ATTACH]
  6. dingy
    That is a front fender mount bracket for the brake lines, I think. There is on on each side of the fenders at the point where it mounts to forks. It sets inside of the fender. Gary
  7. dingy
    Attached is a PDF I made for the RSV's showing a trailer wiring hook up. 1st gen's will be the same as far a tying into lights. Gary
  8. dingy
    The butterfly bracket sounds like the one that holds the right and left fairing together at the bottom, under the head light. This is just a guess with out seeing it though. Gary
  9. dingy
    They are a caged taper roller bearing. Will stay intact. Link to steering head adjusting wrench. (shameless plug) http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2747&title=steering-head-bearing-nut-wrench&cat=6 Gary
  10. dingy
    Both units have been sold. Gary
  11. dingy
    $20 each plus the actual shipping costs. These came out of a 1988 model. Gary
  12. dingy
    The wire coming out of the battery is the acid level sensor. This is tied to a warning icon on the instrument cluster. Try WD-40 or some type of rust buster on the bleeder screw. It's a pain in the rear if you break it off. What tune is it humming?? There are some schematics in the tech section relating to the starting circuits on the bike. Below is the link. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42722 Clutch, side stand, neutral, engine stop switches all involved. Gary
  13. dingy
    A few posts have been made in the past about the workings of the fuel tank level sender & the petcock. I pulled these parts out of my spare gas tank and took some pictures of them to show how they work for interested members Picture of the sender unit as it came out of the tank. Picture of sender with metal cover removed. The tabs do not have to be bent to remove metal cover. Just spring sides of cover out slightly and cover will slide back. Close up of the wire wound resistor. The metal wiper contact is at middle position in photo. In this view float is all the way down, at the empty position, metal slider contact is now positioned at bottom of wire wound resistor. View of petcock showing adjust lever. View showing the two screens that go into to the tank. The longer pickup tube is for the regular selection. The shorter tube is for the reserve side. Gary
  14. dingy
    I set just the metal cap on mine, no screws or rubber gasket. It did help. Now just need to reset exhaust valves. Don't think I am going to paint it right away, I want to rid this beast some. Gary
  15. dingy
    Dan's method did help my brake issue. First you will need to bleed the clutch normally though to get the majority of air out. The bleeder screw is on left side of bike above foot peg. It's under a square black rubber cover, about an 1 1/2" square. In my case, the clutch was easy to bleed. Two person job to do this. Gary
  16. dingy
    I have gotten fairly decent lever pull now. I have tied the lever back to the throttle grip with a zip tie for several days now. Released it in morning and retied at night. But, I can still pull the lever all the way back to the throttle rubber, but with decent pressure. Is this normal with the MKII brakes. I had MKI brakes prior, and I really don't recall how far back the lever came. Could someone check theirs for me please? It's just frustrating with the front brakes, the rear brake & clutch were also rebuilt and they bled first time. Gary
  17. dingy
    The bad diaphragms I have seen develop very small pin holes around the outer edge. Very hard to see unless a bright light is directly behind diaphragm. Gary
  18. dingy
    Every time I get another package in the mail, the divorce gets a little closer. She is even getting a set of passenger floorboards, I thought that would keep her happy, but oh no. Gary
  19. dingy
    Alrighty then, Shim tool & valve shims are on the way to me. (Thanks MiCarl) Glad I found out about this now before all the plastic was back on. Vmax service manual shows same as Venture in one place,and different in two others. Guess which one I read. Gary
  20. dingy
    Try again, I just reloaded it, tweeked error highlighting. Gary
  21. dingy
    Based on the finding that Vmax exhaust valves are adjusted to a different setting than Venture exhaust valves I have created a separate Excel work sheet for those that use the Vmax heads. Attached below. The Venture work sheet is in the Tech library at the link below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43410 Gary
  22. dingy
    Squeeze, GaryZ's doesn't have the full heads, just cams & springs. Rest of head is Venture with stock valves. Still go with wider clearances? Gary
  23. dingy
    It got a little better when I tied handle back Monday night. I did it again last night (Tuesday) I haven't messed with it yet. I can squeeze handle to the point where metal lever will touch throttle grip. Is this normal on these MKII brakes? I can pump lever till I am blue in the face and no change. It has always been my experience that if there was air in system, pumping them would increase the pedal (lever) Gary
  24. dingy
    I have the sensor you need for radiator fan. PM me. Gary
  25. dingy
    I will try this tonight. Gary
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