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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Get SkyDoc17 a PM. He will probably work on it. Gary
  2. dingy
    Mike, Flasher relay is on left side under fairing. Hazard flasher is in same area. Remove the left turn signal housing and you should be able to see it down there. It sets in bracket pointed to in attached picture. 83 model has a flasher that is unique to that year. 84 & up used different circuitry. Gary
  3. dingy
    I get very impressive radiator fluid mileage, never have run out. Gary
  4. dingy
    Look at this post. Earl has a kit to replace the parts in the drain valve. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/1724/cat/6 Gary
  5. dingy

    Air Compressor

    dingy replied to pick's topic in Watering Hole

    I realize this is your personal garage you are considering this for. OSHA does not allow PVC pipe to be used for compressed gas transmission though. If the time came when you sold the property, the system should be removed if you make the decision to install PVC. Gary
  6. dingy
    Part will go out in tomorrow's mail. You should have it Friday. Gary
  7. dingy
    Pinwall has several up for sale now. On the right side of the VR home page there is a block for recommended links, click on Pinwall Cycle Parts This takes you to their ebay site. In the Pinwall search window, type in Yamaha Venture Front Master Cylinder. $29.95 + $13.33 shipping. They are very good to deal with. Gary
  8. dingy
    Which master cylinder ? There are 3 of them. Front Brake, Rear Brake & Clutch. I think I have one of each for an MKI. Gary
  9. dingy
    Looking at the schematics for the two models there are some stumbling blocks electrically. The RSV Hazard switch is totally different than the first gens. Will not work without some major circuitry changes, if even this is possible. The clutch & brake lever switches appear to be incorporated on the RSV switch, they are separate entities on the 1st gens. Start switch circuitry is different. RSV does not have the headlight cutout circuit. This could be fixed by adding a relay to accomplish this feature on the 1st gens. On the working side of things, the Horn, Turn, Dimmer, PTT, Cruise Engage, Cruise Cancel & Engine Stop circuits appear to be the same. The connectors I am unsure about, but would almost certainly be different. So if one were to retain the existing hazard switch, brake & clutch lever switches and install a relay for the headlight cutout circuit, it is possible electrically. If the switch were able to mount up is another question that would need to be looked at by someone that has both models. Gary
  10. dingy
    Renne, 1st gen cover is on it's way to you tomorrow. Gary
  11. dingy

    Hub pin lube

    dingy replied to frankc's topic in Watering Hole

    Just got a tube of Moly 60 paste last week at local Honda bike dealer. 3 oz tube. Tube is only half full, which is noted on tube. $10 Bottle cap is for size reference. Gary
  12. dingy
    I have the perfect man for her !! http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/fat_man_236wfi.jpg Gary
  13. dingy
    Are these just for 2nd Gens? Gary
  14. dingy
    First two pictures are the repair I made to a couple of broken tabs. I used 1/8" aluminum. Drilled holes and cutout center to match size of tab opening. Used epoxy to glue in place. Below is writeup from another site about fabricating the pin shown in last 3 pictures. Well, I'm not sure what you call them, but the things that stick out and grab the rubber donuts and hold the side panels in place. When I got my 87, all were broken but one. I got some aluminum screws, turned the head down to .390 on my drill press. I took masking tape, made a loop around the top and put some JB weld on top. In the drill press again to round it off. I drilled a hole where the tab was, put a nut on, put it thru and put a nut on the bottom. Eyeballed the height and tightened up. Gary
  15. dingy
    I took paint stripper and removed all the paint & clear coat from these. Then sanded with 400 grit, then 800 grit sandpaper. The buffed on a 1HP buffer setup I have with a medium polish, then used Mothers for the final polish. I then taped off and powder coated centers of the risers. Getting the old clear coat off of any of these items is the hardest part. It has to be removed in order to get a decent luster back to the parts. I use an aircraft paint stripper available at Auto Zone that works very well. The clear coat turns opaque after time and no amount of polishing with it still on will work well. The picture of the stator cover shows the reflection from a piece of paper. This cover was oxidized and very dull before stripping, sanding & polishing. Also, the parts should be clear coated with a UV resistant paint afterwords. The untreated aluminum will start to oxidize with no covering. Engine covers require a high temp clear coat. Gary
  16. dingy
    Here is a thread discussing the vacuum line to the pressure sensor. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43906 Below is a picture of where it hooks up to the 83 carb. First is with hose on. Second one, I removed hose. This port is not on the 84 & up carbs, but the boss is still there in the casting. You could drill the carb out and epoxy in a hose barb for the hookup. Gary
  17. dingy
    This is what it looks like so far. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT5384as.jpg http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT5382as.jpg http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT5383as.jpg
  18. dingy
    I have had brake fluid in the clutch master cylinder for a week now. There is no sign of any degradation of the epoxy cement. The watch crystal is still clear as glass. The epoxy slug also looked OK. It finally ate through the plastic lid I had it submerged in brake fluid. Gary
  19. dingy
    Ok I'm going with plan 'C'. Using Bob's idea of epoxying in a plug. Back to MKI swingarm. I used a Test Tube style stopper from Lowes. Sanded it down a little on large end and used Marine grade epoxy to hold it in. Drilled a 1/2" hole in center for pin on swing arm. This feels much better than the MKII mount with metal to metal, loose fitting contact. Gary
  20. dingy
    I was concerned about the bushing coming out. There is nothing to hold it in on the inboard side. Went to plan B, stripped, sandblasted, primed & painted the 88 swing arm. I hope nothing else is different on it. At least I have a real pretty 83 swing arm spare now. Gary
  21. dingy
    I thought changing to MKII brakes was a fairly common upgrade. Has this ever popped up before? Putting a bushing in is an option, I would have to have one machined. And it would have to have set screws in it to keep it on the swing arm. Easiest option I can see is using the MKII swing arm. MKI arm has been sandblasted & painted though. Gary
  22. dingy
    And this is from a kid that earlier said he wanted to be an Arizona state trooper. Pick a direction Junior, I don't think you can have it both ways. And yes I inhaled, and held my breath, a lot. Gary
  23. dingy
    Gonzales Speedy Gonzales Gary
  24. dingy
    I need some help on the MKI to MKII brake upgrade. My rear swingarm is different on my 83 compared to my 88 donor bike The pin that the caliper bracket slides onto is a different dia. between the two models. The 83 has a smaller dia. pin on swing arm that matches the original caliper bracket. The 88 has a larger pin that is welded to the swing arm, and it matches the 88 caliper bracket. The 88 bracket, when put on the 83 swing arm flops around. What am I missing here. Bracket at top of picture is 88, bottom is 83. Hole is also slightly elongated in 88 bracket, by about .080". But there is no obvious signs of wear or fatigue. Hole is longer front to back than top to bottom. The holes are the same center line distance, picture is distorting this . Gary
  25. dingy
    Here is a link to cleaning the brake & cluth switches on a 1st gen. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42720 I am not sure if the 2nd gens are similar. Gary
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