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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    If we all were to mark the Paypal payment as Personal - Payment Owed on the screen where you put in the amount it would help the end cause. Don, Eileen & the Domestic Violence Shelter would get $0.92 per shirt more, no paypal fees on personal transfers. I really don't see this being a business. Anyway, I digress, payment sent for shirt & info included. Gary
  2. dingy
    Dan, I see at least a tuner push button control. Also looks like the amplifier control box. Bunch of plastic parts. Gary
  3. dingy
    Here is a link that describes clutch plate inspection & doing the DD mod. It is shown on a Vmax, but Ventures are very similar. http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm SkyDoc has the PCW spring listed in the classifieds now for a good price. The DD mod does make for a stiffer clutch lever pull. Gary
  4. dingy
    PM sent Thank You, Gary
  5. dingy
    What is the reason for the half plate from a design point. I am looking at either the PCW plate or the DD mod, where a second standard spring is installed. The DD mod seems to be the preferred way to go. I just have to find a second standard spring. Gary
  6. dingy
    Maybe since the Olympics are over with in Vancouver, they had a cross country skier available. Gary
  7. dingy
    I still have wrenches available if any one would like one. See top post in this thread for info on ordering. Gary
  8. dingy
    I shipped this on 2/13. I had one get to Guam in 7 days. Gary
  9. dingy
    The only thing I have is the head light adjuster, which is on the fairing sub frame. I'll pull it off if some one wants it. Parts bike I got was stripped of 95% of plastic parts. Gary
  10. dingy
    I have a Fairing Sub Frame that came off of my 1988 parts bike that I am going to scrap. Reason being, I cleanly removed the cruise control brackets from it. I needed them on my 1983 scooter for the cruise addition. It is still serviceable, just no cruise brackets, one picture shows where I removed these two brackets. I guess it's not really free, I will send it out for the price of shipping though. It's going in trash in a few days if no one wants it. I would rather not send outside US, with the customs stuff though. Gary
  11. dingy
    Evan, Your problem could be due to a dirty or poor contact in your 'Engine Start' switch. This switch has two sets of contacts. When you push the start switch in, one set completes the start circuit, Normally Open contacts. The other set breaks the energy to the headlight circuit, Normally Closed contacts. Look at thread below for opening up and properly cleaning this switch. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42433 Gary
  12. dingy
    Check the signal fuse. It is tied to the gauges and the neutral light. It also runs into Dash CMOS unit. Make sure tabs in fuse box are not deteriorated, this is common on these bikes. Fuse needs to have tension on sides to make good contact. Gary
  13. dingy
    Does the bike crank & start? Gary
  14. dingy
    I doubt it is the side stand switch itself. All that switch does is to tie two circuits to ground, it would not cause dash to go out under worst case failure. It could be however, be triggering an upstream circuit failure and allowing a path to ground through it. This is a schematic for 1st gen start circuits http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42722 This is link to overall schematics. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42384 Gary
  15. dingy
    There are also a number of subtle wiring differences from the 1983's to the 1984's & up. The 83 has a fuel pump control control module. The diode pack is different. The turn signal wiring is completely different. The 83's had a separate turn, hazard and start relays. 84's had these built into the 41R relay. Gary
  16. dingy
    Below is a link to disassembling it and cleaning it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42433 Gary
  17. dingy
    One telling sign that it is an early 83 would be the sidecover cut outs around the fuel petcock. If it is like picture attached, and does not have cut outs for fuel petcock, it probably is an early 83. The maroon bike is an early 83, no cutout in lower black portion of side cover, near passenger footrest. The blue bike is a 84, the cutout can be seen in the side cover. Gary
  18. dingy
    Electrical threads are almost as much fun as the political ones. There are always a number of ways to skin the proverbial cat. Gary
  19. dingy
    Nope, engine is cleaned and ready for reassembly when video start. Gary
  20. dingy
    Yes, I also got cams & valve covers Pictures below of heads. I would like to not modify my 1200 carbs at this point, I would like to keep with my 1200 engine. I also have a set of parts carbs coming in addition to the set that was on the 1300 parts bike. Gary
  21. dingy
    I got my copy of this video. It is actually two long WMV files. This means they will play with Windows media player, Nero, etc. You don't have to have DVD player capabilities. Over 4 hours long. The video is extremely helpful. It goes from a completely empty split block to fully assembled. Each step is explained through out. It would be helpful for anyone considering a transmission replacement as well. He shows each piece being put into place, torque values, sealer requirements etc. Go on ebay & search for: Yamaha 1200cc engine assy. Gary
  22. dingy
    I agree Larry The second relay is a definitely not needed when the 87A terminal is already on the top relay. Gary
  23. dingy
    My scooter is a 1983, I am putting a 1988 - 1300 in it. I want to use the 1300 carbs on it since I am also putting on Vmax heads. Am currently exchanging PM's with Squeeze about re-jetting requirements. Gary
  24. dingy
    If you put the ground in that is shown in red on the 85 terminal of the lower relay, the upper switch now is voided out of the circuit since it was switching the ground. Result is top relay will always be energized as shown. Gary
  25. dingy
    Sure as hell won't without it !! Gary
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