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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    The FJR rear end I had did not come with the spacer it needed. From the parts fiche it does not appear to be a press in like the Ventures use. I had a spare venture rear end that had a spacer in it that was the proper ID, but overall length was a little long and OD of washer was a little big. I have a variety of calipers, depth gauges and bore gauges. I used the rear end that was known to be working OK, which was my original 83 rear end. I measured from face of female hub spline to the top of the spacer. I then modified the donor spacer to match this height when sitting in FJR unit. Gary
  2. dingy
    I am slowly getting pressure built up in front lever. Every so often I bleed at top banjo bolt. Every thing is new in front brake system, rebuilt calipers, master cyl., new S.S. lines. Speed bleeders. De linked brakes, Electric anti dives, Here is an update on what I have tried. I have the new (to me) MKII master that has been rebuilt. I took it apart yesterday and checked for proper assembly. It looked good. I also looked at seal mating surface with a magnifying glass and saw no nicks. Small seal in master (one toward banjo bolt) also looked OK. Bore looked good. I have three masters here for the front brake. I have had all three on with same results. I just within thew last hour put the rebuilt MKII master back on, bled it at top banjo and pulled a couple of reservoirs of fluid through each caliper. It did produce 'slight' brake lever pull. This pull does not increase with rapid pumping. I have also at one point pulled the speed bleeders off and did it the normal way with regular bleeders, no difference. I have the screw in the end of the brake lever set to just contacting piston when lever is released. No leaks in system. Also yesterday, tried removing both calipers and holding up as far as lines would permit with bleeder at top and bled, no difference. Bleeders are at top. At no point does master lever become hard. Pistons do come out and cause pads to contact rotors. Most of time when I am bleeding, I use mighty vac attached to speed bleeders with vacuum applied, If speed bleeders where leaking I would see a rapid loss of vacuum. I also am using clear tubing to bleed with, and I do not see fluid be pulled back into caliper. I have also checked both holes in bottom of master & both are open. I see some fluid squirting out of the bottom large hole in master when lever is depressed. This seems to be where problem is coming from. But I would have thought one of the other masters would correct this, one of them came off of this bike, prior to upgrades, and was functioning correctly. Gary
  3. dingy
    It makes the engine turn about 10% higher RPM's for the same MPH. Increase the acceleration rate a bunch. There is almost nothing I am doing to this bike that has anything to do with increasing MPG. I have a Dodge truck that gets about 14 MPG, If the bike gets 35 MPG that will be just great. Gary
  4. dingy
    It's now FJR equipped !! I took spacer out of spare stock rear end and modified it. Rear wheel spins freely now when torqued to 110 ft/lbs. Thanks for help !! Gary
  5. dingy
    FJR is essentially the same as a Vmax, same ratio. Gary
  6. dingy
    It is the spacer that is missing that is causing the problem. It does not appear to have been pressed in though. The outer bushing for the axle is still in rear end. It does not appear from the inside to have broken off . It looks like a machined surface. The solution I am working on is to remove the pressed in spacer from a third spare rear end (not working venture one that is on bike now) and modify it. It is correct ID, but length will need to be altered. Thank you for pointing me in right direction. 1st picture shows Venture rear end internals with bearing and seal removed, 2nd picture shows FJR rear end internals as I got it. Gary
  7. dingy
    The brake and clutch systems are closed loops. Where would the the water go when it vaporizes? Also, I don't know if the clutch slave would ever reach 212 deg. It is on the outside of the block in a relatively low temp area. Gary
  8. dingy
    Probably referring to the CMU unit that displays the start up check list. There is a lot of electronics under that display. It sets between tach and speedometer. Your speedometer is a mechanical device. Would not be affected by an electronic failure. Do you mean the lights illuminating speedo? Gary
  9. dingy
    I have what may be a dumb question, but not the first dumb one I have ever asked. If the water settles into the bottom of the clutch slave cylinder, how do you get it out short of removing slave cylinder? If you flush new fluid through, will it agitate water enough to mix with fluid and come out. Oil floats on top of water, and the bleeding of the clutch, or brakes for that matter, would not seem to produce enough flow to bring this water out. Gary
  10. dingy
    Are you referring to inside this area? Should there be a spacer at bottom where grease is obscuring it? Thank You, Gary
  11. dingy
    Another glitch I am having during the bikes total over haul is my FJR rear end won't cooperate. I have a seemingly good condition rear end that came off of a 2004 FJR. On the bench it turns fine, no problems. I mount it on the bike and as the rear axle is torqued down the rear end binds up. It finally becomes almost impossible to turn by hand. I can hear no unusual noises as this is occurring. Prior to torquing axle and with drive shaft in, wheel turns just as it should. I have tried this with a shim in place of the thickness that Skydoc recommends and several thinner thicknesses of shim with exact same results. Also same with no shim in place. I even tried an experiment shown in first two attached pictures where I torqued wheel down without going through the right side of the swing arm. I felt this would eliminate the shim variation from the process. I used a piece of 5/8" threaded rod with a nut on left side of rear end and other nut up against wheel bearing. This also eliminated the brake arm from causing problem. Last picture shows axle in as it should be, with washer in up against swing arm. I am using an MKI swing arm. I currently have the stock rear end back in and it works perfectly. The one explanation I have thought of is as the axle is being torqued, the ring gear is being forced into the pinion gear just enough to cause binding. Skydoc didn't have an explanation for this. Any suggestions would be great. Gary
  12. dingy
    If your 84 is jumping out of gear, the teeth on the gear are damaged beyond repair. You are past the thrust washer fix. The entire 89 set will drop in as a direct replacement. There were some updates to the gears as well as the thrust washer. As we PM'ed abut you may need to re-shim the middle drive gear, may not. As with any machining process there are tolerances that vary from part to part. Helical gearing is generally held very tight though. Also there is a possibility of a bent shifter fork. Gary
  13. dingy
    OK, I thought the factory default setting was 02. I would have thought that the spark plug fires every revolution due to the fact the pick-up coils read off the end of the crankshaft and not a cam shaft. I haven't used mine yet but any day now. Still can't get the front brakes to bleed right. Got the clutch & rear brake, but the fronts are not cooperating. I have new everything in there, rebuilt master, caliper and new lines. Same with the clutch & rear brake, they bled easy. I have tried a mighty vac, have speed bleeders, but nothing is working yet. I can draw fluid through, but no pressure. Gary
  14. dingy
    The seals are probably not damaged. The excess pressure just pushed the oil past the seal lip. If you remove/raise the fork dust cover with a very small screwdriver, you can dry the oil out in the cavity between the main seal and the dust cover. The cover that you see is the dust cover, main seal is inside of lower fork tube, beneath this dust cover. Work the screwdriver between the dust seal and the LOWER fork body, working around entire diameter, it should come up fairly easy. You may need to drain & replace fork oil to insure you have correct amount in there. This depends on how muck came out. Also check brake pads and see if they were contaminated by oil. Gary
  15. dingy
    Attached is the tach manual. Press and hold the S1 button for 4 seconds. Hold it until it displays 01 (spark plug fires once per revolution) I think this is the correct setting, if not also try 02 (spark plug fires twice per revolution) or 03 (spark plug fires every other revolution) Gary
  16. dingy
    I really don't think you know what you are talking about. You contradict yourself and your limited knowledge by the above clip of your rant. You say that you can jump a motorcycle from a running car, but don't leave it on there or it will overdraw. Are you aware of the speed of electricity? Ever seen lightning. It's pretty fast. Heat will destroy almost any electronic component. Especially those with solid state components (P-N junctions). Current equals heat. The clamping circuit of a motorcycle regulator is not designed to handle the in rush current from a 100 amp alternator. The rectifier/regulator does indeed draw this current from the host vehicle, it is not that intelligent of a circuit, all it knows is there is more of a supply of electrons than needed, so it performs its designed for purpose and shunts those extra electrons to ground before they can overcharge the battery. This is the regulators purpose. If a very high potential source of electrons are made available, the rectifier will instantly begin shunting these to ground. Trust me when I say that the Japanese did not over design the electrical components on this bike. Ever notice all the heat fins on the regulator/rectifier on a venture. Those are not for aerodynamics, they are there to bleed off the the woefully small, but excess current the puny generators on these bike put out. That bleed off produces heat. The reason a running car will produce damage when a large battery will not is voltage. A battery has a steady voltage. An alternator produces an increasing voltage. This is all not to imply that this will mean instant death for every motorcycle that is jump started from a running car though. Even a blind squirrel gets lucky and finds a nut now and then. I will take you at your word that you are done trying to educate us. Gary
  17. dingy
    You haven't got a snowballs chance in heck of hiding a 20" long 5" diameter horn on a first gen. I might fit in the saddlebag, kinda hard to hear in there though. Could put compressor setup in one saddlebag and drill other saddlebag and let the bell end of horns stick out front. Gary
  18. dingy
    I think running the compressor is not the issue. Where you going to mount the horns. Ad says longest on is 20" long & 5" diameter bell. And there are 3 more smaller ones. Gary
  19. dingy
    There is a sensor in the speedometer head that is used to read speed. This information is used by the cruise system & turn signals canceling unit. Possibly was damaged or wires got knocked off. Or one of the dash plugs is not making a good connection. Picture shows sensor wires directly above speedometer cable port. Gary
  20. dingy
    Here is a new listing on ebay for a set of 4 new carb joints for 1st gen bikes. Buy it now price of $79.99 + $15.50 shipping. These go for around $45 to $50 apiece from the discount suppliers. The clamps are not supplied and I doubt O-rings are either. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-XVZ12-XVZ13-VENTURE-ROYALE-INTAKE-CARB-HOLDERS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem588711e922QQitemZ380223220002QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Ebay item # is 380223220002 if link doesn't work. Gary
  21. dingy
    I'm not sure if extra ground really helps or not. It was kind of a feel good thing I did. I had an extra ground cable off of my parts bike I cut and soldered a new connection on the end. I haven't really got a chance to try this out much. The 83 mounts are ribbed. They only have about 50% contact area to the frame. Its got solid mounts now thanks to SGN. Gary
  22. dingy
    These were just a supplement to the existing path to ground. They probably alone would not be enough to carry the full starter current. It's sort of cramped in there, but I think you could add some more. I would have liked to use larger wires but the eyelet that the screw goes through is way to large on #12 connectors for the size of screw I wanted to use. A single 14 gauge wire has a safety rating of 32 amps. I doubled that by using two runs of wire. The safety rating is probably 60 to 70 % of actual carrying capacity This is an extremely short run which will help increase that somewhat. Also it is basically a fail safe type of application, worst case it fries and then is in an enclosed steel container, already shorted to ground. Gary
  23. dingy
    No, it just floats in there. The tabs are what is used to supply the ground path. There is no 'hard' connection to ground. Gary
  24. dingy
    I am surprised you could get enough slack in cam chains to lift cams without removing tensioners. The tensioner body has a ratcheting mechanism that will not return to allow slack unless the prawl on the tensioner body is depressed. This requires removal of the entire tensioner. The spring only serves to press the tensioner rod in, it should not release on its own. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/tensioner.jpg
  25. dingy
    Loosening the upper banjo bolt did allow partial pressure to be developed. Still not enough though. I a going to let it set a while to let mall bubbles gather together I don't have the hydraulic anti dives any more, went to electric. So t least don't have o mess with them. Gay
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