sizzling sam

While reading the thread about the starter clutch someone asked about a puller that would work. I found one from Dennis Stubblefield Sales, Inc. You can find him at www.dssalesusa.net . It is a special 12 hole disc flywheel puller. The model is MP#37. It comes with the 8mm x 1.25 bolts but I bought some a little longer to use. It is a round disc with holes arranged in it. You line up the 3 holes in the rotor with the puller, install the bolts through the puller and screw into the rotor. You screw the main bolt through the puller into the hole in the rotor till it touches the flywheel. I didn't put anything in between to protect the hole in the end of the crank as the bolt didn't seem like it would damage the hole. When you screw it in it will pull the rotor out. It was so easy I was surprised after reading about all the problems people have had getting the rotor off. I hope this will help someone. Sam

Thank you for your replies. So I take it that on your ventures that if you switch the switch to off it will kill the engine. That's what happens on my other bikes but I wasn't sure on this one. I do have a schematic and have checked the wiring from the switch to the first connector and the switch operates o.k. In the off position it won't start. Next time I have the fairing off I will trace the circuit completely to see what the problem is. Thank you for your help.... Sam

Would someone explain to me how my engine stop switch on my right handle bar is supposed to work. I have an 89 Venture Royale and the switch says "run" and "off" I believe. The writing is a little faded. If it is in the "off" it will not start with the start switch but "off" does not "kill" or "stop" the engine when it is running. Is this the way it is supposed to work on the Venture? Usually the "engine stop" or "kill" switch does just that. I was wondering as there might be a problem with the wiring as the previous owner did a few modifications. Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thank you. Sam

It's a Mitsubishi model CJ 88 B . I'll try the Mitsubishi site. I looked again at my owner's manual. The schematic for the audio shows the connector from the amp mating with the connector of the wiring harness. I wasn't sure how to read it but after looking at several it looks like the orange from the amp goes with the sky blue on the harness and the yellow on the amp goes with the light green on the harness. I'll give that a try. Thanks for the help. Sam

I bought a used amplifier on ebay and the previous owner had changed the plug with one that wouldn't match my wiring harness plug. Most of his leads were labled and I have them all wired up except two. They are the orange and yellow lead coming out of the amp. I think they go to the sb (sky blue) and lg (light green) lead that go to the remote controller but I don't know which goes to which. Could someone help me out. My bike is an 89 Venture Royale and some of the wiring colors may have changed with the models. The wiring diagrams I found all are just "block" diagrams that don't show the exact pin locations, etc. I don't have a headset to try the remote controller if I wanted to connect them one way and then the other to see which one works. I'd rather not do that as I don't want to damage the controller. Thank you for your help. Sam

Thank you Brian and Gary for your help. I have the valve lifter ordered and once it comes I will be able to see if I need to go deeper depending if I'm lucky and didn't bend the valve. I should have it sometime this week. Thank you again for your knowledge. Sam

I could use a little good advice about a situation I have. I was checking my valve clearances on my 89 Venturer. Things were going pretty well. I bought the special tool and after struggling with it I was able to make a map of all the pads and their numbers. Out of 16 I had 10 that needed attention as some were minimum. I had no shims so I ordered some from Sudco at $6.55 each. I got antsy and decided to move a couple around to fix the clearances. It worked fine when it was on a pair of exhaust or intake. I repaired one and then looked for more. I had no spare shim but I thought I could take one exhaust shim out and then put it in where the intake shim needed replacing. When I rotated the crank I heard a metallic crunch. Not good. The exhaust cam chipped a piece from the lifter where the shim was removed. I was able to put the shim back in but the lifter doesn't rotate like it is supposed too. It will move up and down. I ordered a new lifter. I was trying to confirm my course of action to remedy the situation. If I take the cam out I should be able to replace the lifter. If it works then and spins like it should all should be well. If it doesn't I would use a compressor and check the springs and anything that didn't look right. If that didn't work I would pull the head and check the valve and cylinder. Am I on the right track with this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Sam