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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Attached are a couple of pictures of a fix I did to tabs on bottom of my side panel. Used 1/8" aluminum. Drilled two holes on either end. Connected two holes with hacksaw. Cut a slot into center to match pin. Epoxied into place. They have worked for a couple of years now. Gary
  2. dingy
    I believe all the MKI seals are the same, maybe even the MKII. I just put a set of seals I had ordered for my 83 forks into a set of 86 forks and they are working fine. Gary
  3. dingy
    I just went through this with my front brakes. Yammer told me to zip tie lever back to throttle over night. Loosen master cylinder cap to allow air flow. Also it helped me to burp the banjo bolt at the top by master cylinder. Had to do this about three nights, but now I got a handful of brakes. Gary
  4. dingy
    Sometimes there is a punch mark on the end of the shaft where the shift lever attaches. Line up this punch mark with the slot in the shift lever. Note the orientation of lever is towards bottom. It is possible to install towards top, but shift pattern is reversed. Don't ask me how I know this. Gary
  5. dingy

    brakes?

    dingy replied to oldgoat's topic in Watering Hole

    There are two white with black tracer wires coming from front master cylinder that plug into wire harness behind headlight. As I recall you have been in there working. If you dislodged one of these connections icon will be on. They both have 'Bullet' style connectors, Run up to master in their own cable. Same thing on rear master as well, but that one ties into harness near the brake light switch on right side of bike, in front of master cylinder. Connection is along frame down tube. I think it might be your front one. Gary
  6. dingy
    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44037&highlight=posting+picture OK, so I forgot to CTRL-V the link. Gary
  7. dingy
    It's not getting painted till this fall though. I am riding it now, not sanding it. Gary
  8. dingy

    Don's md

    dingy replied to ronhenry4's topic in Watering Hole

    I am 5 miles west of the I-71 and US 30 interchange. Gary
  9. dingy
    Look at my second post in the thread below. It details how to upload. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44037&highlight=posting+picture After you run through the manage attachments screen and upload 10 pictures, you can go back and upload another ten, and another, to the same thread. Gary
  10. dingy

    Don's md

    dingy replied to ronhenry4's topic in Watering Hole

    I will be going up from Mansfield. Located halfway between Cleveland and Columbus. What time would you be in this area? Gary
  11. dingy
    The long side panel, the one that covers the carbs & gas tank does not screw or attach at top. There are two short rubber bumpers at the top. It has a snap clip at rear, one at bottom, or a rubber strap depending on year. And two pins at front leading edge. Hope I am showing correct piece. If not a picture would help. Gary
  12. dingy
    First picture shows attachment of two parts. The front cross piece under the radiator has a clip nut on each end. The leg coming down from the rear of the main fairing that turns forward and joins this piece has a hole in bottom of it. Phillips head screw attaches these two together on each side. Rearward piece snaps into the connector shown in second picture. Gary
  13. dingy
    Somebody send a snow blower down to Hell. Did Mr. Maytag actually say he wanted to get a 1st gen? Another convert. Gary
  14. dingy
    I just checked the shock I took off m 83. The the isolator and bushing seem bonded together in it as well. Gary
  15. dingy
    Took the bike out for its first decent run since its re-birthing this winter. Bike was naked, not me, everyone can breath now. No plastic on bike except front and rear fenders. I really think this all has been worth it. Running at about 50mph in third and twist the throttle open and I had to grab grips harder it had so much acceleration. Revs up to about 8500 RPM with out pushing hard, hit almost 9000 once with no sign of valve float. Front brakes are absolutely no problem, Rear brake didn't lock up, which is good. Put about a 1/3 of a can of seafoam in it, and rode about 30 miles. Carbs are close, but haven't been synced yet. Occasional pop when decelerating. Might be running a little rich, exhaust pipes where sort of soft black. Clutch is a handful with the two diaphragm springs in it. No leaks anywhere. All the electrical stuff is working. Gary [ATTACH]44240[/ATTACH]
  16. dingy
    Both sensors are on right hand side of bike, about 6" rearward of radiator cap. Below is a picture of what they look like on a bike with all plastic removed. Green arrow is temp gauge connector. Blue arrow is ground for temp gauge circuit Red arrow is fan switch. The fan circuit is independent of temp gauge circuit, they do not share the ground. Gary
  17. dingy
    If you 'bypass' the tilt sensor then the bike should not run, this is normal. The tilt sensor is a roller ball switch that makes a contact to ground at some predetermined angle and shuts down the ignitor unit. The switch has a normally open contact that closes when tilted. Here is a link to simplified RSV circuit. http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Venture%20Simplified%20Circuit%20Diagram%20Rev%20B.pdf Tilt (Fall Over on schematic) is in upper right quadrant. Gary
  18. dingy
    Look at my third post in this thread for description of reserve light operation. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47671 Headlight fuse and start switch are already in circuit I showed above. Relays will probably already be too high of resistance to activate warnings. What you need is current flow to cancel warning. This is lower resistance. The relay draws about 1/4 amp, 55 watt bulb would be around 5 amps. Gary
  19. dingy
    Jason, Where did you get the drain plug at? Gary
  20. dingy
    You could accomplish the High/Low beam function with a single DPDT relay. This relay will have 87 & 87A contacts. This would eliminate the CMU and the reserve lighting unit from circuitry. Circuit is shown in attached PDF. This circuit will not however address CMU warnings, or need to feed power to CMU. I just sketched it up to show head light circuit. Gary
  21. dingy
    This is what I have found with the operation of a working system on an 1988 wiring setup. I have just verified this information on my bike. I have independent spade lug terminals hooking up to the headlight plug in the wiring harness,due to my projector headlights, so it is easy to simulate burnt out bulb conditions. The reserve lighting unit is located on the right side of the headlight unit. When the dimmer switch is set to LOW and low beam lamp is not functioning, the reserve unit illuminates the high beam lamp at a reduced voltage, this keeps from blinding oncoming traffic. The dash white indicator light "Headlamp" is illuminated. CMU Headlight icon is displayed. When the dimmer switch is set to LOW and High beam lamp is not functioning. The dash white indicator light "Headlamp" is not illuminated. CMU Headlight icon is displayed. When the dimmer switch is set to HIGH and High beam lamp is not functioning, the reserve unit illuminates the low beam lamp at a near normal voltage. The dash white indicator light "Headlamp" is illuminated. CMU Headlight icon is displayed. The "High beam" indicator is lit. When the dimmer switch is set to HIGH and Low beam lamp is not functioning. The dash white indicator light "Headlamp" is not illuminated. CMU Headlight icon is displayed. The "High beam" indicator is lit. When both lights are not functioning, only the CMU icon is displayed when Low beam is selected. When HIGH beam is selected, the dash white indicator light "Headlamp" is illuminated. CMU Headlight icon is displayed. And the "High beam" indicator is lit. Assuming the wiring diagrams are correct, the high and low beam run through the CMU. There is an input circuit and an output circuit for both the high and low beams. The reserve lighting unit is where the input wire from the headlight fuse goes first. I am guessing that the current on this wire is used to determine if the lamps are lit or not. Last paragraphs are based on this assumption. If the Low beam is selected at the dimmer switch, a positive voltage is sent to the CMU, which then passes that voltage back to the headlamp. If headlamp is burning, reserve lighting unit does nothing. It senses normal current on feed wire, and it is getting voltage on its low side input. If the High beam is selected at the dimmer switch, a positive voltage is sent to the CMU, which then passes that voltage back to the headlamp. If headlamp is NOT burning, reserve lighting unit senses very low current on feed wire (some current consumed in CMU), and it is getting voltage on its low side input. The reserve lighting unit then outputs reduced positive voltage on the High beam circuit, thus illuminating High beam and signaling CMU that low beam filimant is burnt out. If the High beam is selected at the dimmer switch, a positive voltage is sent to the CMU, which then passes that voltage back to the headlamp. If headlamp is lit, reserve lighting unit lights the High beam indicator lamp. It senses normal current on feed wire, and it is getting voltage on its high side input. If it is not lit, the reserve lighting unit outputs positive voltage on the low beam circuit, thus illuminating low beam and signaling CMU that high beam filament is burnt out. Gary
  22. dingy
    I have that CD, just never watched it that far. I see what he is doing. Thanks, Gary
  23. dingy
    Could you get me a copy of the instructions some how. It looks like they are drilling into the bolt below the water pump and connecting into an oil pressure port there. [ATTACH]44170[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]44171[/ATTACH] gary@dinges.com Thanks Gary
  24. dingy
    This is a way to isolate whether problem is in CMU or reserve lighting unit. I just tried this on mine and it works. Disconnect the reserve lighting unit from wiring harness. It's an 8 pin connector going into a black rubber covered rectangular box. About 4" long, 2" wide and little over an 1" thick. Looking at the male end of connector, the one attached to wiring harness, there is a Blue wire with a White tracer on it. If you temporarily attach a jumper from positive battery to this wire, the head light should work if the problem is in reserve unit or the feed wire coming out of fuse for headlight. If it acts the same, then problem is in CMU. Also check that headlight fuse clips are not weak. Pull on headlight fuse and see if there is good contact to fuse. This is a common problem with the fuse blocks on these bikes. The metal clips to the fuse gets weak and doesn't make good contact. Another place could be in the start switch. The circuit for head light runs through start button, so head light goes out when bike is cranking. Here is link to the schematics for these bikes. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ad.php?t=42384 Gary
  25. dingy
    Carl, That wouldn't be a problem if I knew it was normal. I don't scare that easy. Gary
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