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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. Wo Hoo !! Party Time
  2. All wil be 304 Stainless Steel. Might be able to powder coat though for an up charge. White, Black, Red or Yellow Gary
  3. Its on its way to you. Gary
  4. I don't know if this will help you guys trouble shoot the cruise control on the RSV's or not. I took the wiring diagram for the RSV's and removed anything that was not related to the cruise control. This may make it a little easier to narrow down an electrical problem. The throttle position sensor is tied into the cruise circuits. So maybe the throttle cable free play might be an issue. Gary
  5. Now your saying y'all invented NASCAR
  6. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44580 This thread is very similar, less than two weeks old. Gary
  7. If it would help you out any, I have an extra stand from an 88 that I don't need. You could get it to a welder, while keeping your bike running. All I would want is my shipping costs. [ATTACH]40991[/ATTACH] Gary
  8. I have an HP8000DN that I got from a lease company for $600 about 7 years ago These printers have a monthly duty cycle of 130,000 pages. This one had around 300,000 page count on it. Thats about 2 1/2 months normal service. Will do up to 11 x 17" Dual sided capable. Monochrome 3 trays. Toners are around $50 but last forever. 15,000 pages @ 5% coverage. Mine has network card & parallel. This thing is built like a 1st gen, fast, dependable, and like a maytag, no repairs. Search Ebay on 8000DN Gary
  9. I would be cautious about applying 12 volts to headlight without disconnecting the connector on the CMU that I pointed out in previous post to this thread. The headlight system puts an input voltage into the CMU on one set of wires then the CMU puts out a 12 volts to the headlight on another set of wires. I don't know what the effect of putting 12 volts on the output side of the CMU would be. Maybe nothing, maybe a new CMU. Gary
  10. I contacted my supplier of these tachs about warranty if anything should come up. The tachs will be covered for 90 days from time of purchase. Tach would need to be returned for replacement. If anything does arise and you need to return due to warranty issue, contact me by email or PM and I will provide information required. He also wanted me to inform you that the tachs are NOT waterproof as shipped from factory. There is a protective cover over the face of the tach that does help keep water out. Also, the cable entrance to the tach should be siliconed if you want to help waterproof. I do not see this being an issue since the intended purpose here is for engine tuning. He said there is a man in Austrailia that sellls this same tach and he does procedure below to waterproof these. This guy sells these for $65.00 Austrailian, obout $58.00 US. He puts them on ATV's that are exposed to elements though. He leaves the front protective film in place, removes the rear panel and pulls the wire back in about 1/2 inch and coats it with silicone sealant, then pulls it back out to seal the hole. He then puts a packett of silica gel in side of the meter to adsorb any moisture before he seals it, then seals the back panel with sealant. He said that without the silica gel, he was getting condensation that was trapped in side of the meter when he sealed them. It would condense on the display area. He is in a coastal area with high humidity. Gary
  11. Yes, I have it. I have info from every one that is in the list in my first post that is shown in red. Gary
  12. If he applies the jumpers & still gets the dimming it could be the RLU. Possible check would then be to disconnect RLU & try jumpers again. Gary
  13. The "imiagehacks' was also part of SilverT's problem See thread below & look at picture he posted in first post in thread. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=44831 Gary
  14. With the head light disconnected, does the dash still dim? If it does there is a fair chance it is the CMU unit. That is the dash display that shows fuel level, and other warnings. There is a thread on here about resoldering the connections in it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33328 This thread detailed the unit out of an 83 bike which is somewhat different from the 90 model. Same procedure overall though. Also here is a thread to a schematic for the bike. 90-93 Yamaha Venture DA Wiring Diagram Rev C.pdf I could suggest a method to verify the wiring coming out of the CMU unit. It would require your getting access to the area behind the headlight. I don't have a 90 model, the fairing is somewhat different from my 83. Once you get access to the backside of the speedometer head, disconnect the smaller of the two white connectors that plug into the center of the head. You will see one of the wires in the connector is a Green wire with a red tracer. This is the low beam circuit output. Another wire is a yellow wire with a green tracer. This is the High beam circuit output. If you jumper positive battery on the Green wire with a red tracer the low beam should light up. If you jumper positive battery on the yellow wire with a green tracer the high beam should light up. If both of these work, then the problem may be in the CMU. Next thing to check would be the connections at the left handle bar switch, and then inside switch itself. Here is a thread on cleaning this switch. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42721 Let us know if any of this helps or not and we can suggest further steps. Gary
  15. That's the neat thing about prototypes, If at first you don't succeed, change it and make another one. The neat thing about doing this one for myself instead of some employer is I don't have a salesman yelling at me to ship it anyways. Gary
  16. Check or money order will be fine for the wrench payment. I will let you know when I have them. I should get sample next week, then following week for order from supplier. Gary
  17. That is the same part number for the wrench that is listed in RSV manual. Below is a cut from RSV manual. Second wrench shown in manual is to hold bottom nut while you tighten top nut per manual. Or you could use two of mine, or pliers. Gary
  18. Do you have a part fiche for bike? The part # for nut it fits is 90179-25033-00 It's in steering section in RSV fiche. Gary
  19. I will be placing order Monday morning , February 1, 2010 for these. Let me know if any one else interested. Gary
  20. Actually I found it interesting that the part number for the Steering Head Nut Lock Washer was a 26H prefix, same as the 83 model's. Imagine that, Maytag parts on an RSV. Gary
  21. That could be a problem I found the manual and other info online, but no direct reference to this model. I will check with a distributor Found them listed in an online catalog, page 9. http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/catalogs/09DynaCatalogv5.pdf Gary
  22. I briefly communicated to Squeeze about it and he thought it should. Attached below is the Dynatek & the 86-93 ignition curves. The dynatek manual is also attached. Dynatek unit has a number of different curve options. Not saying it will or won't for sure, but I am interested in it considering my CDI situation. Gary
  23. Something else to consider that has been around longer than the ignnitech is a dynatek unit The Dynatek 3000 D3K7-7, it is for 85-89 vmax's, if it works on them, it should work on our 84 - 89 ventures. http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/Default.aspx Gary
  24. I have received a quote for producing a tool that will allow the tightening of the fork bearing nut with a 3/8" torque wrench. This procedure is outlined in the service manuals beginning with the 1986 manual. This is under Periodic Inspection & Adjustment - Chassis - Steering Head Adjustment. Also, if you are the proud owner of the MKI (83-85) Ventures, you could use the procedure outlined in the 86-93 manual. If you need a copy of this procedure I can provide it for you. The tool will work on any year Venture. The same part number is shown in the part fiche from 1983 through the RSV's for the steering head bearing nut. I have a one piece sample coming so I can try it to insure fitment. The tool will be laser cut from 1/4" thick, 304 stainless steel, mill finish. In order to cut the cost for the tool, I will receive the tool from the supplier just as they come off the laser cutter. There will be a slight amount of slag that I will clean up using my stationary belt sander. I need to know how much interest there would be in this tool. I can supply this tool at a cost of $23.00 including first class shipping to lower 48 US & Canada. I would not have to be paid in advance for this item. Payment would be made at time of order. Supplier has agreed to allow me 30 days to pay. If you would be interested in one of these, please post to this thread or PM me. Attached is a picture showing dimensioned tool, left side shows engagement with nut, right side is a scan of Yamaha tool. Gary
  25. I did a search on this site for 'Banner' and numerous threads popped up. But the one below looked interesting. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42702 I have no idea if it is connected to your question though, just a possibility. Gary
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