dingy

Gary

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=4424 Maybe, I don't if this is one you want.

On ebay search for 'Marine Radio Cover' They go for about $20.00 Gary

Grandpop and Bo, the Dog Funny, but so true!!! Myfather-in-law had prostate surgery. We brought him to the hospital at 7:30 a.m.,and he was operated on at eight. We were amazed when the hospital called at noon to tell us he could go home. Two months later our hound dog, Bo also had prostate surgery. When I brought him in, I asked the veterinarian what time I should pick him up. The vet told me Bo would remain overnight. "Overnight?" I said."My father-in-law came home the same day." The vet looked at me and said, "Bo's not on Medicare!"

Pray they get it out before it decides to exit on its own. I had a 'large' stone start to come out on its own and it was more painful than any of the other injuries I have had in my life. Including two crushed vertebra. Morphine was not killing the pain. Doctor went up my urethra while I was knocked out to get mine. My step daughter had hers blasted & she said it was as painful as a c-section. Gary

Attached below is PDF file showing the 83 starting circuits in three different configurations. 1st is bike at rest, 2nd is key on & in neutral, 3rd is key on, in gear, side stand up & clutch pulled in. Also attached are a couple of pictures of the inside of the neutral indicator switch. I don't believe that a failure is likely inside this switch that would give you a constant neutral indication on the cluster. The neutral light on the dash has ground fed from the neutral switch. A bare wire or connection along this circuit could give you the dash indication yet would not blow a fuse. Also check your wiring connection at the clutch switch. I have had the switch back out of the housing and give me a start circuit failure. This will not however cause the neutral light indication symptom. If you are having a neutral circuit failure, putting the side stand up & pulling clutch in should allow start circuit to operate. If it does not, there is another circuit failure. Gary

http://www.stockers-ems.com/index.php?dt=B-5 $9.95 a pair Thanks Snaggletooth !! Gary

http://www.partshark.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=10423&category=Motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=1988&fveh=277 $26.95 for an 88 PartShark.com Gary

$117.00 Year with the Lizard Bodily 100K/300K $20.00 Prop Dam. 100K $6.00 Uninsured Mot 20K/40K $28.00 Under insured Mot 20K/40K $8.00 Comprehensive $100 ded $5.00 Collision $100 ded $43.00 Towing $7.00

Last night after reading the following post, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=44565 I clicked on the link in Black Owl's reply to a smiley icon web site. I know I shouldn't have. The following happened afterwords. My default search engine was replaced. Avast automatic update failed. Home page reassigned. I then ran Malwarebytes software and it located 295 instances of malware. 99% of these were tied to the now default search engine. I had just ran this malwarebytes software about 5 days earlier and it had then detected 17 various ad ware problems. This was at that point the first I had ran it in several months. I looked at Black Owl's posts and this link has only started showing up since the 17th of January 2010. Gary

BoomerCPO Update After being molested by one Miss Oyl http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/oyl1.jpg The Chief was later seen carrying the slender Olive off. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/oyl2.jpg Last seen with Olive Oyl enjoying Ice Cream at a beach resort http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/oylicecream.jpg More to come

Sorry Squidley. Same thing as around here, they want to pay entry level wages for decades of experience. Gary

I have placed an ad in the 1st Gen Classified section for plastic covers that will fit in the Pilot screw holes in the carbs. Plugs I will ship are black, not the silver shown in the second picture below. Keeps dust and dirt out of pilot screw hole. These can be removed and replaced. Set of 4 covers for $5.00 including first class shipping. Gary

--Hung-- Like a stud hamster Gary

I have been in contact with the seller of these tach / hour meters I have a unit coming to me now. I am only suggesting these for test use and synching carb use. Unless the RSV people want to mount to bike. The tach will read exact RPM to 5 digits and has switch setting for as follows . The LCD will display 01 (spark plug fires twice per revolution), 02 (once per revolution), 03 (every other revolution), 04 (hour only,will not display RPM). I have attached the user manual to this post. If there seems to be interest in doing this I will start a clean thread on this subject. If there is enough interest we could make a group buy of these for a fixed price. I have looked at his prices for completed auctions on Ebay as high as $28.00 + $3.69 shipping. A couple went in $15.00 range including shipping. Most seem to be $20.00 to $22.00 shipped. If I could get orders for 20 of these he will give us a fixed price. He will sell them to me in bulk for $14.50 each including shipping to me. I could ship to buyer for $4.95 in US and maybe Canada priority. This would enable me to use Post Office supplied boxes. So to round off cost & pay for my labels that I can print using Paypal I could get them for $20.00 apiece shipped to buyer. This would eliminate people having to bid on them. Let me know if there is any interest in this. Gary

I use Firefox and I can right click over link in first post that opens the video file and there is an option to Send Link Click on the send Link and it will open your email with the link in it already. Or if you want PM me with your email and I will send it to you or your son. Gary

Loosen Banjo bolt & put catch pan under it is about only way. You could crack bleeder screw & put drain line on bleeder & pump most of it out be pressing clutch lever. There is not a lot of fluid in there. Majority of fluid in clutch system is in the master cylinder. Gary

Go to ebay and enter this item # in search field 370322875271 Seller ID is ride4adventure This guy sells these all the time. They go for around $15.00 usually + $3.69 shipping. ($4.69 to Canada) Search for other items by seller once you get to this item #. You can then see what he has. He lists them under all kinds of different ATV, Bikes, Snowmobile names. Same item. Just wrap one wire around a spark plug lead and ground other. It would be good for setting carbs & synching. Gary

posted at http://www.largiader.com/articles/torque.html See red highlited text towards bottom for probable answer to your question. See link below for various torque vs. Horsepower graphs http://www.dynoperformance.com Torque vs. Horsepower If you've been around motorized vehicles for any length of time, you have probably been exposed to the great torque vs. power debate at some point. If not, it goes like this: "Torque is what makes a bike accelerate, not power." "Wrong." Torque and power are inescapably linked by the fact that horsepower equals torque (in ft-pounds) times RPM divided by 5250, so people who talk as if they are independent are full of it. If you have a given torque curve for an engine, you have the horsepower curve also. Knowing how these two numbers work with each other lets you can poke through some of the BS you might read. First, as usual, a few definitions. Torque is a twisting force applied to an object, like a wheel or a crankshaft. Note that motion is not required for torque to exist! If you stand on a lug wrench that is on a frozen lug bolt, you are applying a torque to that bolt even though there may be no movement. For our purposes, we will consider that torque is measured in pounds-force feet (lbf-ft) meaning the equivalent of a given force, in pounds, acting on the end of a lever of length in feet. For example, standing with 180 pounds body weight on a lug wrench one foot long yields 180 lbf-ft of torque. A child of 90 pounds standing on a two-foot lug wrench applies the same torque. Work is the application of force over a distance. Unfortunately, the units used are the same (pounds times feet) but we write this as ft-lb just to distinguish it. The real difference is that in this case, the "feet" part means feet of movement. If you push on a car with 100 pounds of force and maintain that for 30 feet, you have done 3000 ft-lb of work. An easier example is lifting a weight (in pounds) a given distance (in feet). If you use some sort of mechanical advantage, like a winch, you will do the same amount of work because by halving the effort required, you will have to double the distance through which you apply the force to achive the same objective. Power is the application of work within a finite time. 550 ft-lb of work in one second is one horsepower. So, let's first go through the numbers to get from torque to horsepower. Pushing with 87.5 pounds (force) on the end of our 1-foot lug wrench applies a torque of 87.5 lbf-ft. No motion yet, so no work and no power. But now let's say the lug bolt loosens slightly and starts to turn, but that same 87.5 pounds of force is needed to keep the wrench turning. For every revolution of the wrench, you are applying 87.5 pounds of force over a distance of (2 * pi * 1 foot) or 6.28 feet, the circumference of the circle that your hand is making, for a total of 550 ft-lb of work. It's only when this system is actually moving that work is being performed. From here, it's a quick step to say that if you work fast enough to turn that wrench once per second, then you are doing 550 ft-lb of work per second, which means you are applying one horsepower. By the definitions we can see that HP is directly proportional to torque and RPM. "Directly proportional" means there may be a multiplyer involved, so let's find it using our example numbers, remembering that 1 revolution per second is 60 RPM: torque * RPM * constant = hp 87.5 lbf-ft * 60 rev/min * X = 1 hp X = 1 / (60 * 87.5) = 1/5250 torque * RPM * 1/5250 = hp hp = (torque * RPM) / 5250 For internal combustion engines, torque is always given at a certain RPM because they can't generate any torque when they aren't moving. Once they are running fast enough to sustain their own operation, the force that they are exerting against a load can be measured, and the speed at which they are turning can be measured, so the torque (and therefore power) numbers become known. So, if there is such a fixed relationship between torque and power, why do some people say that a certain engine has lots of power, but no torque? Remember that the connection between torque and power is rotational speed. A sportbike motor might generate 150hp at 14,000 RPM but the torque at that RPM is very small; about 53 ft-lbs. In comparison, a large-displacement twin might peak at 100 hp at 7000 RPM. The torque applied at the twin's 7000 rpm, 75 ft-lbs, is greater than the torque applied at the sport bike's 14,000 rpm but the sport bike makes up for it with a lot more engine speed and ends up with more horsepower. The street, though, complicates things because the sport bike will probably not be ridden at 14,000 RPM. At 5000 RPM, the twin would likely have more power. This is an artificial handicap; the sport bike wasn't meant to be ridden at that speed since it generates its power by sending the RPM part of the equation sky-high. For street riding, the twin is easier to ride, less prone to stalling as you pull away from a light, and you get that satisfying "oomph" when you twist the throttle. But as the RPM increases, the twin runs out of breath and the race bike, although the torque is low and probably getting lower, continues to make more and more power until it hits its peak at 14000. Engines are designed for their intended use. Our twins are designed to yield fairly high torque values at low RPM, because this makes them easy to ride in day-to-day life, and Harley-Davidsons have their torque concentrated even lower in the RPM range than BMWs do. Low-end torque is accomplished by several design traits, one being small valves and intake tubes which create high air velocity into the cylinder for good fuel mix at low speed. Those effects tend to become a restriction at high RPM, which means that engines intended for high RPM end up with larger valves, larger air intakes, smaller cylinders and other things that let them continue to breathe when other engines start to gasp. Race bike engines have fairly small displacement, which limits the torque that can be produced at the crank. They apply that torque at much higher speeds to get high horsepower (and who can argue that those bikes don't accelerate quickly?). To a lesser extent, BMW varies these techniques for different bikes. The GS series has narrower intake tubes to give a faster intake charge, giving better fuel/air mixing and better torque at low RPM. Since this becomes a bottleneck at higher RPM, the "power" engine in the RS and RT bikes have larger intake tubes. Swapping the GS tubes into an RS or RT is a common retrofit, as it makes the bike torquier at low RPM where most of us ride. Newer technology in cars, like variable valve timing and variable intake tract length, can give motors the best of both worlds by increasing torque at higher RPM without giving it up at low RPM. Incidentally, Honda has variable valve timing on a motorcycle now. But to get back to the main point, it is power that moves our bikes down the road. Yes, torque provides the pushing force through the drivetrain, but it needs to happen at some given speed, and those two factors define "power." Why does torque drop after a certain RPM? Torque starts to decrease because the engine cannot breathe as well. Due to the speed, the cylinder does not fill with air as well. A designer can get around this problem with "tuned intake" which sets up a resonance to pack the cylinder with air, but it only happens at a certain RPM. The next evolution of design is to make a variable system which packs the cylinders with air at all RPM; this is usually called "variable tuned intake runners" or something like that and involves valves which open and close to create a different size for the airbox and manifold. Why does power continue to increase after torque decreases? Remember that the power is essentially the product of the RPM and the torque. At first, decrease in torque is small and is not enough to offset the increasing RPM, so the overall product still increases. Eventually the decrease in torque becomes large enough that it outweighs the increase in RPM and we see the power start to drop. Because of this, the power peak will always be after the torque peak. A few other well-writen articles illustrate these concepts, although many can be found by entering "torque horsepower" into Google:

The following video presentation has been brought to you by: http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/marinelogo.jpg Warning ! There is some very graphic language in following video clip of our Marines in action. You've been forewarned! This is an example of technology in action! The Marines on the ground have been pinned down by a sniper in the building in front of them. Enjoy Semper Fi [ATTACH]40411[/ATTACH]

http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/maytagshirtfront.jpghttp://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/maytagshirtback.jpg Gary, who thinks this ought to be the new VR T-shirt design. This is avaliable online by the way @ www.zazzle.com/maytag_tshirt-235257618400305093 You can add your own picture. $16.95 + shipping $21.95 + shipping printed both sides Gary

I don't envy you. It is a very tight space in there. You don't have to remove cylinder to remove engine. Just remove 12 mm banjo bolt that goes holds clutch line to cylinder. You probably would want to rebuild this cylinder while it is out of bike though. Rebuild kit is around $13.00 from thundervalleypower.com. Attached are three pictures of clutch cylinder. First two are from a 1300 engine I pulled today. Engine is still very dirty. Clutch slave is still attached to block. Last one is picture from my 1200 with the cylinder removed. This is looking up at it. Oil pan opening is on bottom left, stator opening on top left for reference. Gary

Q: Where can men over the age of 60 find younger, sexy women who are interested in them? A: Try a bookstore-------under fiction. Q: What can a man do while his wife is going through menopause? A: Keep busy. If you're handy with tools, you can finish the basement. When you are done you will have a place to live. Q: Someone has told me that menopause is mentioned in the Bible. Is that true? Where can it be found? A: Yes. Matthew 14:92: "And Mary rode Joseph's ass all the way to Egypt." Q: How can you increase the heart rate of your 60+ year old husband? A: Tell him you're pregnant. Q: How can you avoid that terrible curse of the elderly-----wrinkles? A: Take off your glasses Q: Seriously! What can I do for these crow's feet and all those wrinkles on my face? A: Go braless. It will usually pull them out. Q: Why should 60+ year old people use valet parking? A: Valets don't forget where they park your car. Q: Is it common for 60+ year olds to have problems with short term memory storage? A: Storing memory is not a problem, retrieving it is a problem. Q: As people age, do they sleep more soundly? A: Yes, but usually in the afternoon. Q: Where should 60+ year olds look for eye glasses? A: On their foreheads. Q: What is the most common remark made by 60+ year olds when they enter antique stores? A: "Gosh, I remember these."

http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/Popeye.jpg Gary, who thinks BoomerCPO is out lookin for Olive Oil http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv72/dingy1010/marine.jpg

I am using MS Outlook. How do you delete an email without opening it. I understand not opening attachments, that's obvious. But to delete an email, don't you have to select it first, then delete it. I just tried to arrow down over an unopened one to delete it, but it opened as soon as I stopped moving down with arrow keys. Gary