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Everything posted by dingy
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Take a look at this thread for the Usual Suspects. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42469 Gary
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First you upload all the pictures you want as detailed in above post. Then, in the window that you are typing your post text into, there is a paperclip icon. This is in the top row, next to the smiley face icon. Click on the icon and it will display a drop down menu showing your attached pictures. Click on the bottom line that reads 'Insert All' It will insert the pictures in the following format. The text '[ATTACH]xxxxxx[/ATTACH]' will appear for each picture with the xxxxx's replaced by a number. You can cut and paste these to rearrange your pictures. Also type in text between the displayed pictures. If you delete the '[ATTACH]xxxxxx[/ATTACH]' string for a given picture, it will revert to the thumbnail display at the bottom of the post. To remove it from there, go back to Manage Attachments menu and clicking on the remove button beside the file name. You can also post more than 10 pictures by filling out the 10 slots in the Manage Attachments menu, uploading these files, then adding more pictures to the now empty browse tabs. Do a preview post before submitting to see if things look the way you want. Picture size display is somewhat dependent on pixel size. Gary
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Look at last thread in this link on help with inserting pictures. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44037 Gary
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It would be helpful to know when something we posted was over the line and caused a deletion. I know that some of the jokes I post are 'out there' a little bit, but I don't really think any are way over the line. But if one is deleted I may not even realize it. It's not like I 'monitor' the threads I post jokes to. For example, I posted the 'Navy Carrier Humor' reply a few days ago about the thread where someone had visited the Midway carrier museum. That joke could have been taken as political or religous, but it seemed no one posted being offended by it. Gary
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Looking for a tci on a 1985 vr
dingy replied to Motordog's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Why are the later years better. Does better mean more HP or more pollution controls? Gary -
Not quite as simple as replacing the calipers on the MKI's (83-85) We have to replace forks, rotors & calipers. The R1 calipers have a 100mm bolt pattern at fork mounting point. The originals have an 80mm bolt pattern. Rotors are different diameter as well. Gary
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Pull your radio head out of the holder & check that all of the pins are at the same height. Push on each on and see if they are all locked into contact base. I had one of mine come loose and was pushing back into contact base. I put epoxy on back side of contact to hold in place. Replaced it last year with a car stereo. Gary
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On ebay, search on these item #'s. 160398990829 160398990869 400099948146 It is the shifter drum, forks & linkage out of an 84. Also look at other items by this seller. He has stripped the engine all the way down. You may be able to use some of these parts. Gary
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BoomerCPO Update #2 After having a can of whoop-ass opened upon him by a Mr. Brutus, allegedly the boyfreind of Miss Olive Oyl, the relationship soured. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/Bluto.jpg Miss Oyl attempted to reconcile with our Popeye, but to no avail. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/popeyecartoon7.jpg Later Popeye was seen in the company of a new interest... http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/popeyecartoon1.jpg Hopefully, the chief will be back with us any day now from his adventure.
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Here are a few more pictures. These are from an 83 engine. I think some of the previous pictures in this thread may be from RSV's. These pictures are with the clutch cover off, and then wiyh the clutch basket removed. Also there is a PDF attached showing the parts of an 83 transmission. Also below is a thread to the procedure to fix 2nd gear, which will point you in the direction you may need to go if it is an internal problem. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=508 Gary
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Hi, this is Nancy, dingy's wife (lucky me) I just hit my 23rd year as a customer service rep at an optical lab, we make glasses for doctors all over the country. I hear all the complaints and comments you have all committed on. My first suggestion is make sure you go to a good optometrist, your retail optical places have different standards as far as the quality of your glasses. Also when going to a doctor's office they have all types of warranties as far as being able to remake your glasses for you until you are comfortable with the lenses and the frames (so don't give up until they are right). They also have warranties for your lenses that get scratched, and some of the doctors even replace them for more serious damage(such as the dog chewing them up). Also most of the companies that make progressive lenses gives you a nice time limit to get adjusted to your progressives so you can go back to your doctor until they are correct and they SHOULD be redone at no charge because those lenses can be returned to the lab that made the glasses and they will remake them at no charge for the doctor, because the lab then returns them to the manufacturer and gets their money back. Progressive lenses are more expensive so the manufacturers do whatever they can to keep the doctors ordering them. Keep in mind though that a lot of retail optical stores do not follow these procedures (I really am not putting down the retail optical stores, because most of them are less expensive, but that factors into why they don't offer the same warranty.) You just have to decide what is best for you. I have never heard of any law about a prescription having to be redone every year. Most of your doctors suggest two years. If you are having trouble with your progressives there are a lot of issues that should be considered because there are so many different manufacturers out there. Dingy wears a type of progressive that literally makes me sick. The progressive needs to be measured correctly for you or you will never get used to it, and it does take a few days to adjust, even when you have a prescription change. If you are having problems when turning your head have the doctor double check you "pd" which is the distance between your eyes, if that has been measured wrong or comes back from the lab wrong, you will have problems, other things that need checked would be the seg hgt, thats where your reading area starts, if it is measured too high or too low you will have a lot of up and down trying to focus. Some of the progressive brands have a wider corridor than others, which means the bifocal actually gets wider as it graduates down the lens. There are some new progressives out there that are digitally designed especially for you. Some of you talked about having a bifocal at the top and at the bottom, those are occupational lenses, they were designed for plumbers and electricians. Dingy was complaining of having a sore neck because he was always on the computer, so he was always tilting his head up, so I had a pair of computer glasses made for him, it is a different lens design for people who do a lot of computer work, similar in some ways to readers, so now you have eliminated all the head tilting. You use the same prescription that you were originally given for you progressives, your doctors just tells the lab that they need to adjust it to the computer style. Don't give up on your progressive, make sure your eye wear was made correctly for you. Nancy
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Oh it was worse than that. I went to leave to go to my doctor this morning, got in my truck and started to back out. Realized I still had my computer vision lenses on. Got out of truck, left it running, and went back in house to get regular. When I came back out about two minutes later, my truck was gone. I then realized what had happened. I had left truck in reverse and it had then rolled back out of my driveway, across the road into the neighbors that share a wide driveway, went past one car and rolled to a stop up against a tree. I was so lucky, absolutely no damage to anything. Gary
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Factory wrenches are .280" thick. Nut off of an 88 is .275" thick. I don't want to go much thinner than .25" My next choice down in thickness is 7 gage material, which is .179" thick. I may drop the material down to H.R.S. instead of S.S. Gary
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Sorry about the REPEAT. Been a long morning. I literally LOST my truck this morning. Gary
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http://jimspages.com/States.htm Map of USA Puzzle.. THIS IS NEAT Wonder how a high school senior would do on this one? See how you do in placing the states of the United States Of America .. All you do is look at the top of the page and drag'n'drop the state to where it belongs. Smart map, varies the order of the states' placement with each new try! It isn't easy mostly because placing a state in the precise location when it as yet has no boundaries in place is a bit tricky! No half credit for close but over a tad.... 86% Score 20 mile average error 263 seconds time Gary
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Yes, baking soda, from almost any grocery store. Look at thread below. Cougar posted a low cost blaster you can make. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44637 Gary
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You might not want to sandblast carbs. Look at soda blasting them. A grain of sand is large enough to block some of the passages in a carb. Gary
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U.S.Navy releases Al Qaeda Terrorist The US Navy today announced that it has released a senior Al Qaeda terrorist after questioning him extensively for 27 days while being held prisoner aboard a US aircraft carrier in the Arabian Sea. In a humanitarian gesture, the terrorist was given $50 US and a white 1962 Ford Fairlane automobile upon being released from custody. The attached photo shows the terrorist on his way home just after being released by the Navy. This would be the Enterprise by the deck number. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/go_navy.gif
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Here is a concept of what I have recreated. If anyone would like to comment on it. The dimensioning for the most part is reference only, since the part would be CNC created from the vector information contained in the CAD file. Gary
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As it looks now, I have orders for 31 units. The seller that I have talked to, and that has agreed to sell me these, has given me a slight decrease in price due to added qty. and the other seller on ebay. I will order an extra tach with this money and donate it to this web site. Freebird can use it as he sees fit. Door prize, contest, maintenance day, whatever. If anyone that has ordered these has a problem with this let me know and I will refund your payment. Gary
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Looked at McMaster Carr and didn't see any thing. The issue I see with using a tool other than the 'official' one or a copy is that if the center of the ring nut distance to the center point that the torque wrench engages the tool is not the same, then the torque applied to the ring nut will not be accurate. Since the torque is being applied to a lever, and not over the center line of the ring nut, any change in this distance will increase or decrease the final torque. Gary
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We could try it. I now see that you did give me width in previous post, oldtimers disease is setting in. Thanks Gary
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The RSV manual shows using that tool to loosen the ring nuts on page 7-63. I may not be able to get a decent price on these. but it was something I thought I would look into. Some of the people that have done this enough times have indicated that they have no need to torque it, that they just go by feel. I would rather have it set to a known specification, just like any of the other critical torque values. I stopped at my local Yamaha dealer yesterday to see if I could look at his tool and measure it. The service manager was very helpful, even went out and looked in there 'Special Tool box' but didn't have one. He also told me they aren't allowed to sell RSV's because they are also an HD dealer, which makes up the majority of their sales. Thanks for measurement, that will be close enough. I just tried inserting it into AutoCAD but it is not coming in at a 1:1 scale. If you could give me a width of the handle, I could use that to scale it. Also how thick is the tool? Thanks Gary
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Could you get me the distance from the center of the ratchet hole to the center line of the ring nut hole. It is this distance that the torque setting is determined by. What I mean is that if you put a torque of 36 ft-lb at a point 3" from the center of the ring nut and the same torque at a point 4" from the center of the ring nut your final value on the nut will differ. Thank You, Gary