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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Gary, Below is where I am at on carbs. I know I will take a beating here for the way I have resized jets, but I had extras, and it was cheaper than buying a new set of four for $30-$40 for each different trial. If you only have one set of jets and need to go smaller, you can solder hole shut and re-drill. Mikuni jet sizes do not go by hole size in jets. They are rated at measured flow. The mains have been resized to a #55 drill. Guess was that this would be close to 140. Judging by the size of the holes in a stock set of 170's and a stock set of 125's. PAJ2 I resized to a #53 drill. Guess is that this is about 160. Doing this helped decrease roughness in 2500 - 4000 rpm range when at a steady rate of speed. PAJ2 is an air jet. By going to a smaller size it enriches the the air/fuel mixture. PAJ2 is the one under the diaphragm. For fuel jets, going to a larger size enriches air/fuel mixture. Stock in the 1200 carbs is 117.5 for mains and 180 for PAJ2. Stock in the 1300 carbs is 125 for mains and 170 for PAJ2. I have mixture screws set at 3 turns out. I also have two 5/8" dia. holes in the top lid of air box cover. I tried this last year with the stock 1200, and it was causing a stumbling in 3000 RPM range. There is no such effect now. I also have a K&N air filter. Remember I have full Max heads, which have larger valves in them. Bike is idling very smooth. I have some files on working with carb jetting on Ventures & Max's if you want them. Gary
  2. dingy
    Check that the switch that is located behind (to the right) of the clutch handle is fully seated in its socket. Sometimes these come loose and shift out of place, then give a false signal that the clutch is pulled in. If it is fully seated, try pushing forward on clutch handle and see if it will start. Also check connector inside of head light housing and make sure switch wiring is plugged in. If it is unplugged or connectors are dirty, it would start in gear. My guess is you need a replacement clutch switch if all the above checks out. If your bike has cruise, you need a 4 wire switch. Gary
  3. dingy
    Bike should not start in gear with clutch out. It will start in neutral with side stand down or up and clutch in or out. Will not start in gear with side stand down at all. Will start in gear with clutch pulled. Attached is a PDF file showing starting circuits for your bike. Gary
  4. dingy
    Out of curiosity, I looked at the site for the gear indicator. What I could gather from the FAQ section is that the indicator will only work when the clutch is released. It seems that they are taking the RPM's and comparing it to the speed reading to determine a gear. This would not then possibly give an accurate indication if you where coming up to a light with the clutch in and down shifting through the gears as you coasted up. Another thing that may be a fly in the ointment is the people that have changed the rear end out to VMax gearing. Will there be a way to reprogram the logic to compensate for the RPM increase in any given gear? Interesting idea, but may not be as good as the 1st gen Royale's dash indicator. Gary
  5. dingy
    Girlfriends are replaceable items. Motorcycles are forever. Just ask BoomerCPO. Gary
  6. dingy
    Latest project for the scooter sunk to a new low. I bought an adjustable backrest bracket from a 2007 Harley Road Glide and mounted it on the bike. I didn't get the mounting bar for the backrest or the actual backrest so I fabricated one up. The mounting brackets were also McGyvered from stock steel pieces . I had to remove a section of the plastic base for the seat and a little foam for the bracket clearance. It is a removable backrest and the tilt can be adjusted forward and back. There is a cable made for it that I didn't get. The tilt feature is something I really don't care if I have, since once I get it set where I want it, it won't need to move again. I can trigger the tilt but the seat needs to be off in order to do it without the cable. There are two pictures of the orange bike that is a Road Glide with the stock bracket mounted to it. I don't have the backrest covered or the bar powder coated. Those are tomorrows project. Cost for the bracket on ebay was $46 with shipping and I have about another $30 in a couple of pieces of steel and the foam and covering material. It really does make the bike more comfortable. Road it for about 40 miles tonight and I like it. Bike didn't seem any slower with the HD part on it either. Gary
  7. dingy

    Honda Moly 60

    dingy replied to BigBear's topic in Watering Hole

    Below is a link to a previous thread on this subject. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34940&highlight=moly+grease Gary
  8. dingy

    Honda Moly 60

    dingy replied to BigBear's topic in Watering Hole

    Got mine from a motorcycle dealer. Gary
  9. dingy
    Would there be any interest from members to purchase replacement square cut O-Rings that go between the brake caliper halves on 1st gen bikes. These are not used on 2nd gen bikes due to caliper design. Yamaha does not list a part for this square cut O-Ring. They recommend in the service manual not splitting the calipers. In order to give the calipers a decent cleaning though, I have found that splitting the caliper is necessary. At times it is need to just get the pistons out of the caliper body. I have located a supplier that will make this O-Ring for me. I have to order a quantity of 250 of them though. There is a 7 week lead time. I can supply 6 of these O-Rings, which is the quantity needed for all three calipers, for a cost of $10.00 including shipping to U.S. & Canada. Please post to this thread or PM me if interested. Bear in mind the long lead time I have on getting these special O-Rings. Gary
  10. dingy
    There is no timing adjustment as there is in a car where the distributor is rotated. The timing is locked in place via the pick up coil(s) in the stator area and the magnets attached to flywheel/rotor. The TCI handles the timing advance via its inputs for RPM & the pressure sensor. Gary
  11. dingy
    With the bike on its side, the air pocket that is in the clutch master cylinder may have been positioned in a manner to allow air to get into the valve and lines. Especially if the clutch lever was pulled in while it was down. Gary
  12. dingy
    Pulling the carbs out of bike. Splitting carb rack in half. Taking float bowls off of each carb. Picture below of main jet, it is on the right side of picture. Also there is a diagram of the flow patterns in a Vmax carb which is very similar to Ventures. Gary
  13. dingy
    I was at .072" on needles. I was getting a nasty hesitation if I would be at about a steady 6,000 rpm and crack throttle wide open. Red line is around 8,500, and I have hit 9,000 a couple of times. Reset needles to .102" and that got rid of hesitation at 6,000. I also backed the mixture screws out another half turn. (about 3 turns now). The roughness I was having at 3,000 cleared up quite a bit with the mixture screw. It was somewhat rough at a steady 3,000 before. For the most part it isn't bad. I am considering pulling carbs off and trying a larger main to see what that does to it. I've got #140's in it now. Used that size upon Squeeze's learned opinion as to a size to start with. Reason I am thinking about larger mains is Vmax's are running #150's, plus they are dumping even more fuel in when the V-boost kicks in. I have a hundred more CC's than a Max, but no v-boost. Squeeze wants me to get an air/fuel reading but I don't have anyone around I know that can do that cheaply. Gas mileage is in high 30's for the most part, which I am satisfied with. I have on a stock set of mufflers that have all but the forward most baffle removed. I was hoping to get SkyDoc on it at MD, but that may not happen with his condition. I like a second opinion on how its running. Gary
  14. dingy
    Below are pictures of what I removed from a stock set of mufflers. Not obnoxiously loud (depending on listener, I guess) but you hear it coming & going. Gary
  15. dingy
    Many other things to check that could due this besides the battery. To check the battery take it to Auto Zone, Advance, O'riely's, etc.and they can do a load test on it. Remove and clean the terminals at the battery, starter solenoid & starter connection. Use a piece of emery cloth or 320 (approx.) grit sandpaper. Replace and tighten bolts. The solenoid & starter bolts are low torque. I couldn't find spec in manual, but it is 5-6 ft/lbs (60-72 in/lbs). Also check the main ground line on the right side, near the front of the engine block. Clean this and connection point to block. Another possibility is starter needs removed and cleaned. The brushes may need replaced or the commutator may need cleaned. If you pull the starter off, clean the mounting pads where the two 10mm bolts go through to mount it to the engine. This is the grounding path. Check the stator to wiring harness connection on left side near the air ride adj. knob. by passenger foot peg. It is a 3 pin connector with 3 white wires. These have been known to overheat and then not recharge battery. Gary
  16. dingy
    The mighty vac won't fill the master, it pulls fluid through the brake caliper bleeder screw, slowly emptying the master. You need to keep an eye on the master so you don't empty it and draw air back into lines. The last thing you do is refill the master to whatever level you want. The rear is the toughest, due to it not having a sight glass. I have a very small, turkey baster like suction bulb I use. I can top the master reservoir off, then suck out some of the fluid. Gary
  17. dingy
    Attached is a picture of the rear master and the two feed holes in it. Gary
  18. dingy
    I would not put the R1 on the front if you are going to delink the brakes. I put MKII's on front with delinked brakes and it has got enough stopping power to lock front wheel up. You should also go to an MKII front master cylinder if you delink brakes. Cylinder bore is larger to match increased caliper piston volume. I know that with the MKII brakes you need to change the lower front fork tubes out to accommodate the bolt spacing on the MKII caliper mounts, this is if you are doing the change to an MKI, The R1's also require this, I believe. You can also put put MKII brakes on the rear wheel, but it requires a bit of McGyvering to the MKII caliper mount arm. Gary
  19. dingy
    5.8 ft/lbs per service manual. PDF cut attached below. Gary
  20. dingy
    The fuel pump relay has a wired connection to the ignitor unit. I believe it is designed to shut down when the system knows the engine is not running. Not having an RSV though, this is just speculation from looking at the wiring diagram. Gary
  21. dingy
    The leg cowlings air flow is from the black intakes on the front fairing sides.. The airflow is forced through ducts inside the front fairing then directed down the leg fairings and out the vents. I have removed these fairings on my bike and I do notice an increase in the temps on my legs. This probably would be a bit uncomfortable in a higher temp climate than where I am in Ohio. I still have the airflow coming through the front intakes and out the bottom rear of the fairing, it just isn't directed over my legs as it once was. The attached picture will give you an idea of what the bike looks like with the lower leg fairings removed & side covers modified. I know members RandyA & Thom have had this mod for a while. It does give the bike a more distinctive look. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT5697s.jpg
  22. dingy
    I pulled the piston out of the leaking master today and the cylinder wall is fubared. It has metal degradation in the cylinder bore directly under inlet hole. I don't know if this was caused by the epoxy I used to install the sight glass. It is rather apparent though, I don't think I would have missed it when I was rebuilding it. It is more than just grooves in wall. More like pitting. It started leaking very slightly out the lever end. Replaced it yesterday. Cylinder bore is beyond honing by appearance. The powder coating is not being affected by the synthetic brake fluid, there is no paint peeling even with direct, long term contact. The epoxy I used was 5 minute set time. I let it harden 24 hours prior to filling with fluid. Gary
  23. dingy
    He can have this one snaggletooth, or I can also get him a S.S. socket head & lock washer at hardware tomorrow and send it out tomorrow, along with a new O-ring. Got a hardware a block from the house that has a lot of metric stuff. I have a drain cock on workbench I can get size of O-ring size. O-ring is a 13.8 I.D. x 2.4 mm thick, I have a new one in hand. Jason, That's why I said it needed to be ground down and even gave him a picture of it. Gary
  24. dingy
    2nd gen valve cover gaskets will also fit 1st gen motors. $17.80 apiece + shipping from http://www.partshark.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=47209&category=Motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=2000&fveh=943 Item #35 They have a lip around the gasket that makes them easier to install supposedly. I didn't use them as I thought they would not be as cosmetically attractive with lip, since I was exposing the motor with the Bikini mod to side covers. Gary
  25. dingy
    FYI The recommended torque on the clutch bleeder screw is 4.3 ft/lbs. That is a very small torque setting. Gary
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