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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. Look at thread below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49396 Thread that was referenced to about cleaning switch is at: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42433 Gary
  2. Had a tornado hit about five miles from here and destroyed a barn. We had some high winds and some hail. Gary
  3. Below is a picture of spare one I have. Is it the one you need? I used three on my bike, two for stock horns & one for Stebel horn. Gary
  4. I think I have a spare one, I'll go on a scavenger hunt. Gary
  5. Don, I gave you a fork wrench tool. Not sure how it will work on the valves. The RSV's must be a little different, than their faster older brothers. Gary
  6. Bike is an 83. Does not have intercom or CB. New bike wiring harness has connectors, but they aren't used. Gary
  7. I put a new radio in the bike today. I found a unit at Wal-Mart that had an Ipod input as well as a USB and SD memory chip port. Can handle up to a 16 gig chip, which would be around 3,000 songs. Has skip, replay, folder selection functions. Front rear balance. Radio gets excellent reception. No CD player in unit so it is only about 2/3 the depth of a normal radio. Blue back lighting. This was only $40. I can puty up to a 16 gig memory card in player with songs in different folders depending on preference. Navigator likes country so I can have that music in a folder that can be played for her. I had completely removed the stock radio and filled in cover with plexiglas last year. I had a car unit with a CD player in it, but the CD would skip on bike. Made a cover for it to keep rain out. Probably get a marine style cover for it in future. Stock speakers have been replaced with 3 way units. I also have a pair of small tweeters mounted in the saddle bags. Gary
  8. Carl speaks the truth !!! Gary
  9. Look at thread below. Possible cause is bad solder joints in CMU unit. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33328 Gary
  10. More likely it would be the other way around !! Gary
  11. If the fan is wired per the schematic, it should not have power to it unless the key is in the 'On' position. Schematic link below. http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/86-89%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Simplified%20Circuit%20Diagram%20Rev%20D.pdf Gary
  12. Below is a link that shows the speaker wire colors. Audio wiring is in center of schematic. http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Venture%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20B.pdf Gary
  13. dingy

    Brass caps

    I have a set of plastic plugs listed in the 1st gen classified section for the mixture screws on the 1st gen's. Someone told me these weren't needed on 2nd gen's though. So I am not sure if they will work on 2nd gen's. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2573&title=carb-pilot-air-screw-hole-cover&cat=6 Gary
  14. Below are some pictures of a mount I made for a Magellan unit. I brazed another nut to the existing handlebar nut while a bolt was threaded through both. I can remove mount when not using. I put heavy duty velcro on front of mount & back of GPS unit so it can be removed from mount. Gary
  15. While out riding tonight, I had a few chances to experiment with the discrepancy between the green neutral light and the CMS 'N' indicator. I have a fairly stiff clutch in the bike, so when I come up to a light I know I'll be at a while I put bike in neutral. Several times when I was stopped I had a blank CMS indication along with the neutral light being lit. I tried several things to get it to sync. What I found was that often, by slightly pulling the clutch or front brake lever would cause the CMS 'N' indicator to display. I also got them to sync once by pressing the cruise 'Cancel' button. The cruise unit was powered on at the time. It would not however, sync by flipping between High & Low beams. I have two 65w bulbs lit on high and only one 65w bulb lit on low, so this would have caused a change in system voltage. The clutch, brake & cruise switches as well as the green neutrl light are all tied to the main positive circuit from the key switch. This circuit being the 'Br' wire on the schematic. What this all means I am not sure of. I still think that possibly a higher than normal resistance crimp connection in the wiring harness might be involved. This winter, while working on the bike, I dismantled a spare harness to use some of the connectors. Some of the crimp connections I came across had 4 or more wires held together by a metal band only, no solder. This type of connection is subject to deteriorating over time. Below is a picture of a typical crimp connection inside the wiring harness. I do not beleive in my case that the problem lies in the neutral switch on the end of the transmission shaft. This is due to the green neutral light being lit whenever it should be. The CMS display and the green light are triggered from the same contact in the neutral switch. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/crimp_005.jpg
  16. You could either use the parts fiche to cross reference part numbers, which is referenced on this site at: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2482 Or go to Partshark.com and do the same. Gary
  17. Don, I don't think Tom wants the singing end of the frog !! Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/froglegs.jpg
  18. Look at thread below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=508 Gary
  19. Below is an item number for one on Ebay. 250613839581 I got one a couple of weeks ago, quick shipping. The top of the compressor is not painted which is sort of ugly. I looked at one at Auto Zone and it was the same. Painted mine black. I was not really impressed by the volume though. Better than properly adjusted stock horns, but not ear shattering. Gary
  20. I have noticed that occasionally mine will have a discrepancy between the green neutral light and the CMU display. There is only one neutral switch on the 1st gens. It is in the same body as the 1-5 gear indicator & works both the green light & CMU through the same contact. Looking at the wiring diagram, I don't see a stand out suspect to cause this. The gear indicator switch is a grounded connection. A wild a$$ guess might be that the pin may be slightly dirty in side the switch. Combined with a less than perfect crimp connection in the wiring harness, the load of the indicator light in neutral, the CMU is not getting a low enough signal to it to activate the 'N' indicator. The '1-5' work OK due to not having the load of the bulb in their circuits. Gary
  21. The controller & class light are located in right fairing pocket. Class light purpose is to illuminate controller internally, kind of like the back lighting on instrument cluster. Relay is behind head light. Fuse is by main fuse panel on right side, near battery. Solenoid valve, pressure sensor & compressor are located under rear trunk between frame rails. Under the black plastic cover. If you put the CLASS in, the air fitting near the key switch and by the shock damper on left side will be non functional. Gary
  22. If you are referring to the upper bleeder valve by the front fork I have one. E-mail me at gary@dinges.com Gary
  23. I have both. Differential is painted red, but it will come off. Not powder coated. PM me. Gary
  24. Considering the cost of the rotors on these bikes, I would rather use a relatively softer brake pad. It may not last as long, but it is kinder & gentler to the rotor. Gary
  25. Ebay is running a no charge listing for items right now. Doesn't cost anything unless item sells. I have been thinking about parting out my 1200 engine. They don't bring any kind of price whole due to freight costs. One persons trash is another persons needed part to get bike running. Gary
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