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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    The cable should pull out of the bottom gear, just like the top does out of the head. When you turn the front wheel does the cable turn? Gary
  2. dingy
    Having put a 1300 engine in scooter this winter and using the 1200 carbs, here is what I found works so far. Re-jetted mains to 150 from 117.5 Re-jetted PAJ2 from 180 to 160 Mixture screws set to three turns I have opened the exhaust up quite a bit. Also have Vmax heads, cams & springs in motor. No vboost. Your plug looks to be very lean. I am going to hazard a guess that the engine is running hotter due to this. You probably don't need to go to 150 on the mains with stock heads. Stock 1300 had 125 mains. But, this size choice was probably influenced by a need to pass EPA regulations. 135's might be a nice start. PAJ2 is the jet behind the carb diaphragm rubber. Reducing its size allows less air into mixture, thus having the effect of making the mixture richer. I have the mixture screws out to 3 turns to clear up a rough running around 3000 RPM. Gary
  3. dingy
    Yes, you made need to take two bolts out of instrument cluster mount and raise cluster up, in order to get your hand in there. This requires windshield to be removed. Gary
  4. dingy
    The cable has been known to become unscrewed from the speedo head. If you can move the outer cable up and down at all where it goes up into fairing, this may have happened. Gary
  5. dingy
    RSV's do not have headlight cutout circuit like 1st gens do. Gary
  6. dingy
    Below is a link to a PDF of the starting circuits on an RSV. Check all battery & ground connections. Check the ignition fuse and verify that it is tight in holder. I know there has been problems with the ignition switch on the RSV's. You could try a temporary bypass around the ignition switch. Jumper from the Main 30 amp fuse to the ignition fuse. Try starting then. If not successful, then there is a 4 wire connection on/ or near the starter solenoid. Open this connection, and apply positive & negative battery jumpers to the connector on the starter solenoid terminals that have the Blue & Red w/White tracer mating to them. Polarity does not matter. This will energize starter solenoid (if good) & crank engine. Make sure bike is in neutral, as this will by pass all safety checks. If motor cranks, solenoid is good. Reconnect wire connection, after inspecting for any burning. If still not cranking, then engine start switch may need cleaned. Gary
  7. dingy
    Tim, You are comparing apples to oranges. The TCI you are using is a programmable model, that possibly could be used above or below the throttle plates, with the right curve put in it. If the TCI is from a 1983 vintage,(26H serial number prefix) it must have its vacuum sensor connection above the throttle plates. Needs dual pick-up coils. If the TCI is from a 1984-1989 vintage,(41R serial number prefix) it must have its vacuum sensor connection below the throttle plates. Needs dual pick-up coils. If the TCI is from a 1990-1993 vintage,(3JJ serial number prefix) it must have its vacuum sensor connection below the throttle plates. Needs single pick-up coil. The pressure sensor part numbers are the same for 1983-1993. What I meant by the drilling statement was that an 83 TCI could be made to work on an engine that did not have a set of 1983 carbs on it. This could be done by drilling a port in the #2 carb body & fabricating a hose connection. It is unlikely that this would be done, but it is possible. The casting boss is present on the carb where the port was drilled on the 83 version. To use the 84-89 TCI on an engine with 83 carbs on it, simply plug the port above the throttle plate on the #2 carb and hook vacuum sensor to rubber intake boot below carbs. Internally, there is no appreciable difference as far as the timing of the engine, from 1983-1989. Gary
  8. dingy
    Remove faux tank cover Remove side covers Remove the windshield trim, then the windshield, 4 screws in each. Remove both mirrors, 2 screws each, under rubber cover. Remove headlight bezel, 2 screws. Remove air intake below headlight, 4 screws. Remove center bracket behind and at bottom of head light, 2 screws. Remove grilled chrome covers directly behind radiator, 2 screws Remove knee fairings & crossover piece, 3 screws/bolts each ? Remove right & left fairing pockets. Remove air grills to right & left of handlebars, right side is a little hard to get out due to hazard switch. Remove right & left console panels (speakers mounted to), unplug speakers. Unplug turn signal lights Remove left & right fairings, 3 bolts each, watch for special washers. Do not allow fairing to hang by 1 bolt, keep supported to prevent cracking. From here on it gets a little fuzzy. Remove radio amplifier bracket on left side. Remove left black inner fairing cover. Remove radiator overflow bottle on right side. Remove right black inner fairing cover. You should now have a view of the coil bracket. Taking it apart is the easy part of this. Putting back together and getting everything to line up is a little more challenging. Work out some sort of system for keeping fasteners in some order, it will make putting back together easier. While you are this deep, I would recommend you relocate TCI to top of air cleaner. To do this, you need to cut off one of the mounting lugs on the TCI. You can use high strength velcro to mount. I think I got most of the steps, done this a few times. Gary
  9. dingy
    Here is the recent thread about removing the coils. I posted a couple of pictures towards end showing coil mount points. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50330 I think you need to remove fairings, if not, your vocabulary will be increased with several new four letter words !! Not saying it hasn't been done though. Gary
  10. dingy
    I have a used one I could overnight to you. Upper or lower cable. Gary
  11. dingy
    How do you place the 'Blue Balloon' that is needed to pin point a sighting on the map? I did not see the icon anywhere to do this. I saw an Red 83-85 Venture at Quaker Steak & Lube in Columbus last week. Gary
  12. dingy
    Below is a link to a thread where I detailed using a backrest from an H-D Road Glide on a 1st gen. It is very comfortable, and it is easily removable. It has made riding much more enjoyable. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=476788#post476788 Gary
  13. dingy
    I do not believe there is a 'tee' fitting in the vacuum line to the pressure sensor from the #2 carb. There is a plastic reducer fitting that serves to even the pulsing of the vacuum out. It would help us to help you if you did not start a new thread each time when you are seeking help for the same problem. This is the fourth thread on this problem from you. It would keep all the responses in one thread, so we can see what has been suggested for you to try. That's up to you, of course, but if we get feedback from things that have been suggested, and you have tried, it might lead to other areas. The thread will get pushed to the top of the history stack with each new post. Gary
  14. dingy
    You should not have to pull the axle out. A visual inspection should suffice to determine component assembly. I do think the front and rear calipers are swapped though. Gary
  15. dingy

    NO Juice

    dingy replied to TDunc's topic in Watering Hole

    There is also a main fuse, 30amp, in conjunction with the starter solenoid. If this fuse blows, 100% of power on bike is gone, other than things added that were wired direct to battery. The only thing that does not run through this fuse is the cranking power for the starter. Starter will not work though, due to control circuit not having power. Gary
  16. dingy
    Did you break the negative with the relays? Nothing wrong with breaking negative, other than the unexpected energized wire. This would explain sparking when wire brushed pipe. Otherwise circuit should be de-energized. Gary
  17. dingy
    Cupcake, You wimp, You have only been known as CUPCAKE less than two weeks. How long did you make Sleeperhawk be known as CHICKENHAWK ?? I recall it was a lot longer than two weeks. You started this name switching, now Suck it up CUPCAKE. It has been over three decades since I have heard a squid whine this much. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/bawling.gif http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/cupcake.jpg Gary
  18. dingy
    Actually, the stock horns on all Ventures (1st & 2nd gens) have direct, fused, positive battery going straight to them. This is with key in ON position only. If you tapped into this circuit to run your air horn, and did not use a relay, then there may have been power to the wire. Or, if you broke the ground circuit through the relay contacts, similar to what stock horns do, then there may still be power to horn. Gary
  19. dingy
    Doug, Attached is a thread that will show the axle re-assembly order. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=515 Just a question here, Is the brake pad installed correctly? Are they the correct pads? If you still have your old pads, compare them. In your first picture, it looks like the bottom of the pad isn't coming down below the lower surface (Inner I.D. of contact area) of the rotor. I don't know if you could even install it wrong, but the picture puzzles me. Do you have an MKI rotor installed? Also, another interesting thing is the orientation of the Yamaha logo, it should be parallel to ground. Do you maybe have front and rear caliper switched? Bleeder valve should be at highest point on caliper body. Gary
  20. dingy
    Below is a link to the schematic for the RSV's Fan circuit is located in lower right corner. As Goose said you can pull the connector at the thermostat and jumper the two wires together with a paperclip on the wire connector. Key will need to be in ON position. Or as SkyDoc said you can pull the connection that goes to the fan and put positive on one side and negative on the other, Black wire is ground & Blue wire is positive. Whichever one is easier to get at. To me the thermostat is easier, all you have to do is jumper it. 99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Wiring Diagram Rev B.pdf Gary
  21. dingy
    It was missing the about 2" long spacer that slides over axle. On Vmax & FJR rear ends it is not pressed into housing like it is on Ventures, so I didn't get it when I bought rear end. Gary
  22. dingy
    A few things come to mind that would cause a flex in front end resulting in uneven brake contact. Wheel bearings worn. Metal slides in the forks being worn. Loose triple trees. A loose fork brace. Improper torque on front axle. Gary
  23. dingy
    I don't know why they would be different, but the parts fiche has different numbers for the rubbers on the right & left sides. Just one of the things I learned during my rebuild. Gary
  24. dingy
    Peggy, You mentioned in the chat room the other night you thought her husband had a nice butt !! Maybe that would help jog someones memory. Gary
  25. dingy
    Squeeze is absolutely correct in saying not to ride it with a loose rear axle. My point in saying to loosen the axle a bit and see if it changes the rear wheel drag was related to the problems I had when I put the FJR rear end in my bike. The rear wheel would start to bind as I tightened the axle down. For a short period of time I put my stock rear end back in until I was shown what the problem was after posting on here about my struggles with it.. Gary
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