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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Below is a partial description of what the Vmax guys do to set their steering head bearings. This is known as the "Furbur Fix" A link is also given to the complete website. Information shown as reference only, use at your own discretion. Also it requires getting front wheel of off the ground, may be difficult for the 2nd gen's unless you have a jack. At this point, I am out of the steering head wrenchs I was selling, otherwise there would be a shameless plug to sell you one. http://www.vmaxchat.co.uk/furbur.htm Adjusting the first nutTighten the first nut either with the proper Yamaha tool or make a tool like the picture below. (no picture here) A torque setting of 10 ft. lbs. usually works well. It is best to torque the nut to about 35 lbs. first, back off and retighten to the 10 ft. lb. setting. Disregard the manual torque settings. If no wrench or tool is available, sit at the back of the seat to get the front wheel off the ground. Check how freely the steering moves, allowing it to "fall" against each end stop. It will probably fall easily and "bounce" a couple of times off the end stop. tighten with a flat blade screwdriver and wooden mallet (as in this pic) until you can repeat the above test and get things tightened up just enough to eliminate the bounce. Gary
  2. dingy

    Loctite Damage

    dingy replied to Monty's topic in Watering Hole

    Loctite actually works better with a small amount rather than a lot. I have sat through a training class given by a loctite rep. It is an anaerobic compound, which is a fancy way of saying it cures in the absences of oxygen. If a lot is used, it does not tend to fully cure on the non-compressed side of the threads. We were told that a drop at the tip of a bolt is sufficient for 1/4" fasteners. Gary
  3. dingy
    There is nothing under there, other than coolant. They may have needed to drill at that point to open up water jacket. Gary
  4. dingy
    Link to starter ground upgrade. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46890 Gary
  5. dingy
    If you are feeling frisky and don't mind some rewiring, you could eliminate the reserve unit. It would also eliminate the white warning light on the dash and the systems ability to illuminate the functioning headlight bulb. But it increases the voltage to the bulbs, thus brightening them. I ran heavier gauge wiring and used 2 standard relays to accomplish this. One of the relays needs to have a Normally Open & a Normally Closed set of contacts. This one is used to switch between High & low beams. The other relay needs to have Normally Open contacts, I used this one to cutout bulbs when cranking. Both of these are available at most parts stores. This eliminated having the headlight circuit run through the Start switch as well. I have a PDF schematic I could email you. Gary
  6. dingy
    Check with Snaggletooth about starter upgrade kits. I seem to remember he got one and was not happy with it. I don't know if it was this one though. Gary
  7. dingy
    I emailed Ignitech for pricing and shipping on a set of pins for the unit. I haven't heard back from them yet. Tvking63 lent me 3 so I could attach a map sensor. Gary
  8. dingy
    So, you are saying you don't have the fastest FJR ?? Gary
  9. dingy
    You do need the three washers, there are two wave washers and one flat washer on each side. Flat washer goes in middle. These washers could be stuck inside of tube yet. They are very thin. If you are installing the progressive springs, you do not need #2. Also you do not reuse #3 in same picture. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=496 Also, if you want a smoother ride, you do not need to put the PVC spacer in the forks when you install the progressives. I initially put mine in, then took it back out. The ride is better now, and I do not come close to bottoming forks out. I weigh about 240 for reference. Gary
  10. dingy
    Correct, the caliper should not move independent of the brake arm. But, the brake arm can rotate a very small amount. Gary
  11. dingy
    I also have this one. Probably not what your after though. Gary
  12. dingy
    This may help, may not. This is for 1st gen's. Remove faux tank cover Remove side covers Remove the windshield trim, then the windshield, 4 screws in each. Remove both mirrors, 2 screws each, under rubber cover. Remove headlight bezel, 2 screws. Remove air intake below headlight, 4 screws. Remove center bracket behind and at bottom of head light, 2 screws. Remove grilled chrome covers directly behind radiator, 2 screws Remove knee fairings & crossover piece, 3 screws/bolts each ? Remove right & left fairing pockets. Remove air grills to right & left of handlebars, right side is a little hard to get out due to hazard switch. Remove right & left console panels (speakers mounted to), unplug speakers. Unplug turn signal lights Remove left & right fairings, 3 bolts each, watch for special washers. Do not allow fairing to hang by 1 bolt, keep supported to prevent cracking. Gary
  13. dingy
    This is best picture I have to show rear brake arm. Lower arm in picture is an 83-85 rear brake arm. Hole in left side slides over a pin in the swing arm ahead of the rear axle. This is a loose fit, so brake can move a little. Axle goes through hole in right side. Top arm is from an 86-93 bike that is been modified to fit on a 83-95 bike. Second picture shows rear brake arm setting on swing arm pin. I put a bushing in arm to adapt it to 83 swing arm. Front hole is different. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT5373s.jpg http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT5383s.jpg
  14. dingy
    Picture attached. It is on bottom of oil pan. The part with the cable going into it in picture. It is normal for a first gen light to come on when accelerating hard. Should go out in about 15 seconds though. There is a wire conector on left side. Near air ride adjustment, behind side cover. Should be a single wire. Butt style connector. Black with Red tracer. Gary
  15. dingy
    Picture is on its way. I meant that I had a better quality picture of the third one, not the first. I edited post. Gary
  16. dingy
    Below is what the box will look like in the way of pins when you remove the board that mbrood showed above. These pictures are of a box that ended up being beyond saving, but are useful for reference. I have higher pixel image of third picture I could email to you that would be easier to make out. Use a very low wattage soldering iron, or the board traces will lift away from board. Second picture is of bad diodes. Third is a detail of where board runs go to. There are some of them on the component side of board, these are shown to help ohm out with a digital VOM after resoldering Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT4627s.jpg http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/diodecorrosion.jpg http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/tci_A_s.jpg
  17. dingy
    Someone on here did this to their bike after installing progressives I believe they made a plate that covered the holes in the forks after removing the anti dives. Gary
  18. dingy
    The example you cite is not a valid comparison. We are discussing DAYTIME use of modulators & high beams. Walking into or out of a dark room is not at all comparable. As beer30 stated above, there are numerous situations that one can drive into, and have a much brighter light in ones vision, than will ever be experienced by a driver seeing a high beam coming at them in daylight. An example being the sun, I was out riding tonight just before sunset, heading west, right into the sun that was low in the sky. This was what I would refer to as a difficult situation. But I was lucky, at no time was I blinded. Now had I been traveling the opposite direction on that road, with the sun to my back, and in the face of drivers coming at me, I would have been very concerned about their ability to see me and my meager 65 watt high beam headlight bulb. Gary
  19. dingy
    I will defer to your medical condition on this one. I devised a simple, but very unscientific experiment to see what my own reaction was to oncoming daytime bright lights. I have projector bulbs on the bike that are somewhat more powerful than the standard bulb. I turned the bike on and with the high beams on, I knelt down to be on the same plane as the bike and looked directly into the beam from a distance of about 15 feet for about 1 second. I then looked at a distant object (across street), and I was immediately able to focus on the object. I repeated above, looking into the beam for about 5 seconds. When I looked away again, I had no problem focusing on objects. I did however, from second try, when I closed my eyes, have a light image sensation for about 30 seconds. From my own experience, I feel comfortable operating my bike with the high beams on during the daytime. Is it distracting ( To cause to turn away from the original focus of attention or interest; divert.), I certainly hope so. I want to distract someone from that cell phone, I want to distract someone from getting that sandwich out of the fast food bag. I want to distract someone from lighting that cigarette. I do not however, as been referenced in previous posts, want to blind someone. This can be done by improper use of high beams at night. The original intent of this thread was in reference to modulators. As previously posted, modulators are only legally permitted to dim the head light, not intensify it. Its intent seems to have one purpose. That is to draw other motorists attention to the head light. If they do this then the device has succeeded at its purpose. I have a gut feeling that more bikers are saved by drawing other motorist attention to the bike, than are those injured by the situation that Bongobobby referred to in his post about a biker being hit because a motorist mistook his modulator for a turn signal, if that was indeed the case. As I stated in the second post, modulators could be annoying to uneducated motorists. Maybe those of us that believe in the effectiveness of this device, should come up with a way to help educate them, as well as our own members. This is a tool that can save lives, if it is understood and properly used. Gary
  20. dingy
    The implication from your first line as it relates to the legal use of headlight modulators is ridiculous & not very well thought out. Statement in your third paragraph is interesting. What is obvious? Irrational, yup, I agree with you there. The headlight modulator does not increase the brilliance of the high beam head light at all. It dims it. A large number of motorcyclist run in the daytime with the high beam illuminated, for the reason that it is much more noticeable than a low beam. Agreeably, the high beam, by its very nature, is brighter than the low beam, but in the day time, it does not cause blindness, or cause the pupil in the eye to contract to the point of not being able to have functioning sight. This does occur at night time with the improper use of high beams. But the statement that headlight modulators blind the sight of oncoming drivers in the daytime is unsubstantiated. The fact that federal law permits them within specific operating ranges, and only on motorcycles, would seem to suggest that there is some data that points to there effectiveness. As I stated in the second post of this thread, the use of modulators can be misinterpreted by an uneducated motorist. I do not know of any emergency vehicles that only use flashing headlights as their warning system. Gary
  21. dingy
    It is a 5.3 gallon tank on 1st gens. Gauge reading is not linear. It takes a while to drop the first bar, and the last bar goes fairly quick. Through the mid range of gauge, there is more mileage between bars. Dingy
  22. dingy
    Below is a link to a web page citing the legality of these in all 50 states. http://www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcycle-technical-articles/Modulator-regs.htm The purpose of the modulator is to attract other drivers attention. Your point is well taken about it possibly been annoying though to uneducated motorists. Gary
  23. dingy
    The extended use of brakes will help draw down the voltage on the battery on MKII bikes. This is due to the electric anti dive units. They draw quite a bit of current. The anti dive valves are actuated whenever the front or rear brake is engaged. This would happen when sitting in traffic for periods of time. When I rebuilt my bike this winter, I made a modification to the wiring harness to disable the anti dive units when the rear brake is used. I have de-linked brakes now, so the rear brake does not need to engage anti dives. When I am stopped in traffic, I can use just the rear brake to maintain bike at stopped position. Not an easy modification though, it required opening up the wiring harness casing to insert a diode at the required point. Gary
  24. dingy
    I saw the same voltage swing as you did with the stock sensor, only about 1/2 volt. How much of a voltage swing are you getting with the GM map sensor? The Map unit would be just as good to use, only minor advantage to stock sensor is it has a mount already on bike. What Map sensor are you using? P/N ? Car application info? The TPS is what ingitech shows in their info, but a TPS does not take into account the loading on the engine like the Map sensor would. Gary
  25. dingy
    I made this map trying to follow the Vmax curve. I have the initial timing set at 5@ and advancing to 43@. Tried to follow RPM curve in Vmax manual. I have a Throttle Position Sensor that I was going to adapt to this unit, but may not. I did some testing with the stock pressure boost on the Venture. It is outputting 12v when disconnected from the wiring harness. I did not check output when hooked up. I suspect it will be in the 2-4vdc range when attached to a load. I am uncomfortable about hooking stock boost unit to the Ingitech module due to this higher unloaded voltage reading. I did not get any extra wiring harness connectors for the ingitech module like you did. Crimson Knight said he did not receive any. I have been unable to locate any connectors that size around here. Ingitech has them for sale on their site, so I will get some from them. I need the extra connectors in order to connect a TPS or a auto type BAR sensor. Until I get some, I will be using the 2d curve. Gary
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