Jump to content

dingy

Expired Membership
  • Posts

    5,403
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by dingy

  1. Valve adjustment won't produce a knock. When you changed the oil, was there much debris on the magnetic pickup on the end of the drain plug? Something else to try is to pull one plug wire at a time and see if one cylinder affects the knock more than other 3. Gary
  2. So your selling the RSV and getting a first gen ? Gary
  3. He sent me another email saying he would do some up in black with white lettering. It would be a few weeks before they are available and he would let me know. I will post back here when i hear from him. On a very related thread, see this thread. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=51611 Gary
  4. After reading about the patch that Cruser found online, I ordered one from ebay. The link to that thread is next. The link to this one has profanity in it, but I like it and ordered one. He also said he would make some up in black with white lettering. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=51590 After exchanging several emails with the creator of this patch, I asked him If he could do a custom patch. He said he would do one up. It will read Why Yes, It Is Faster Than Your RSV He said it will take a few weeks to get it together and that he would let me know when they are ready. If anyone is interested in one let me know and I will forward it to him how many he can sell. I will not be involved with selling them as his price with shipping is real low. Now, no hate posts from you 2nd genner's, thread title said not to read this. Gary
  5. V7Goose, Eck, Black Owl & Squidly are the ones I am aware of. Freebird of course. Gary
  6. They emailed back that it is only available in white with black lettering. Gary
  7. While I was in the process of rebuilding my bike this winter I was having some problems with the FJR/Vmax rear end I was installing. One of the things I tried was installing an MKII rear wheel on it. It fit fine. Did not cure the problem which was later resolved, but it was interchangeable with the MKI wheel I end up using. Gary
  8. I also asked if I could get a black one with white lettering. Gary
  9. Yes you can. You have to remove the cruise light pod. Underneath that it is just like an 85. Gary
  10. Here is a picture of one and the dimensions. 6.55mm (.258") from the flange to the first line, 6.8mm (.267") to the second line on the "middle" (Right) side 2.35mm (.092") from the flange to the first line, 2.55mm (.100") to the second (outside) line on the "rear" (Left) side. You only need these on 83-85 Ventures. The 86-93 are filled to the bottom thread of the fill hole. Case casting is different on the MKII's. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/P1030757.jpg
  11. Just ordered one. $3.95 including shipping. Gary
  12. Mcmaster Carr sells them. I have gotten some for the head light unit I made. http://www.mcmaster.com Not sure about metric though. They have extremely fast shipping. I ordered some fasteners from them once at 6:00 PM and had them the next day before noon. This was at regular shipping prices. Gary
  13. I believe the Ingitech unit will work with a 90-93 model. There is a setting already included in the software for a Venture XVZ 1300. It is different than what is needed for the 83-89 ventures. TVking63 said that he thought this setting was for the 90-93 bikes I beleive. You could email Ingitech at http://www.ignitech.cz/english/aindex.htm and ask them about this. I recently aquired a unit from Crimson Knight when he decided to part out his Venture. So far the unit is working well. I am not really satisfied with the use of a Map sensor on the unit though. I have a Throttle Position Sensor that I am going to mount to the carb rack in the near future to try and duplicate what Ingitech had in mind. The Map Sensor is a workable solution and easier to install than a TPS but it does have some disadvantages. One of them being the output voltage is higher than what the Ingitech is programmed for. I picked up some resistors last night at Radio Shack and am going to experiment with lowering the output voltage into a range the Ingitech can be adapted to. I will post anything I come up with in the ongoing Ingitech thread located at http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40414 You can download the software from their site and get a feel for what you can do with it. Here is a link to that page. http://www.ignitech.cz/english/aindex.htm . You want the TCIP4 software. Gary
  14. Below is a brief description of a circuit modification to the CLASS system wiring to allow the system to be adjusted while the bike is running. This can be done with only removing the faux tank cover. I mentioned doing it in the thread below and a couple of members requested some details on it so I started a new thread detailing it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51557 I would like to preface this by saying that caution should be used if you choose to do this. Use care if you adjust air pressure in system while riding. I do not feel it will adversely affect the handling of the bike, but it will distract you. Not anymore than adjusting the CB or radio, but be careful. Yamaha states in the manual to put the bike on the center stand to adjust the air levels. A lot of people do not do this. I prefer to adjust it when sitting on bike so I can adjust ride height so I can see over the windshield. This adjustment varies depending on bike load. On 1st gen bikes with the Class system, there is an extra contact in the ignition switch that is energized only when the key is in the ACCY position. This circuit then goes to the CLASS fuse that is in a separate holder, located on the right side of the fuse panel above the battery. This fuse holder is shown in the first picture. All that is required to energize the CLASS system is to wire in a switch and fuse holder to provide positive 12 volt battery to one side of the CLASS fuse holder. I strongly recommend that you do use a switch on here so as to not power up the CLASS system all the time. I measured the current draw on the CLASS system, it pulls a little under 1/2 amp at rest and 5 amps when the compressor is running. The additional current draw full time on the system is avoidable by using a switch. The 1st gen's are known for having little extra capacity in the charging system as is. The second picture shows a switch with a fuse on the positive side. The blue wire is spliced into the existing CLASS fuse holder on the wire opposite the locking tab on the connector. This is the bottom wire in the first picture. The fused side wire is spliced into an accessible wire that is switched on when the key is in the on position. I used the wire that feeds the Accy block on the fuse panel. I attached this wire before the fuse to the Accy terminals. I did this so as to not overload the Accy fuse. The Accy terminals are energized when the key is in the ON or ACCY position. I mounted the small toggle switch in the fairing side cover. The use of a lighted switch would be helpful to show the system is energized. A lighted switch would also require a wire being run to ground to operate the switch. 16 gauge wire and a 10 amp fuse is sufficient to for this. Also attached is a partial wiring schematic showing this mod. The additional wiring is in the red 'cloud'. This is only a partial schematic, I deleted a lot of the wiring to make it easier to pick out. Complete schematics for 1st gen Ventures are at the thread below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42358 Gary
  15. What makes all this last post sound very self serving is the fact that in your initial post, you in no way tried to offer any sage technical advice to the thread. You just insulted the poster for not using the proper term for something. You later added the line "Perhaps you need to re-check for us what bike you are working on and what parts you have actually replaced?" to try to make the first paragraph, which is still insulting, sound a little more palatable. You did try to soften your tirade after I sent you a PM and said I thought you were acting in a manner that a moderator should try discourage, rather than being the instigator of. As you, I have often annoyed other people over the course of my lifetime. That is easy for me to do face to face. I have found if I engage a few brain cells before hitting the Submit button, I do this less over the internet though. Gary
  16. As I expressed to you in a PM last night, I believe you owe this poster an apology. I may be alone in this , but I think you went way over the line considering your position as a moderator by insulting this member. And the cowardly attempt to soften what you had said by editing your post and adding the second paragraph makes your actions seem more childish. Gary
  17. No I don't adjust it on center stand.. I even bought a switch tonight so I can activate it & adjust it while riding. It will be a simple mod to activate it while the key is on. I don't want to wire it that way permanently though. Gary
  18. I emailed him asking for serial #. It is for sure a 2nd gen, you can see dogbone mounts and fake air cooling fin mounts. Looking at some of his non positive feed back, he seems less than pleasant to deal with. Gary
  19. There are two fuse panels on an 89. I believe there is a four position ATC style block. I never have had a stock MKII with the wiring intact. My 83 had a different fuse setup. It appears from service manual to be located to right side of air cleaner. The ATC block has a 15 amp Hazard fuse in it. Gary
  20. I did contract signal design for them many moons ago. Gary
  21. Did you loose yours or did the mounting posts split out, or other. My mounting posts split on mine. I repaired them with a quick set epoxy and they have held for several years now. Gary
  22. Opening up the RLU is next to impossible. All the components in it are encased in a hard plastic like substance. I tried opening mine up a few months ago. Checked the p/n in the fiche. Same # is used on all 1st gens, 10M-84308-00-00 Check thread linked below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51347 I have a schematic I will email you showing how to add 2 relays to bypass all of the light gauge wiring in the harness related to the headlight power circuit. Also eliminates RLU. I don't want to put it online here as it has some non stock wiring in it. My concern is that at some point someone may get it and try to use it thinking it is a stock wiring diagram. Gary
  23. $57.06 at Partshark.com + about $9.50 shipping. They have been very good to deal with. Gary
  24. Why would you paint the chrome surfaces? I am aware that out of the color spectrum, that white is the most reflective, but, is chrome a color? Silver maybe, but chrome is much more reflective than anything I have seen on a color chart. This will be a stretch, but isn't chrome similar in reflectivity to a mirror? I realize the mirror surface is polished and gives greater depth, but if the metals surface detracts from the chrome plating due to unevenness, then this same unevenness will affect the white paint as well. If white were superior, wouldn't reflectors in flashlights & telescopes be white? Just wondering via the keyboard. Gary
  25. Jim, PM me with your email address and I will send it to you. I can't do it via the VR site's email. Gary
×
×
  • Create New...