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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    The 83 Venture used a pin on the on the side stay bar to engage a tab molded into the side cover. This secures the side cover at bottom edge near passenger foot peg. The 84 & up used a rubber band and different side stay configuration to secure the lower side cover. They are interchangeable if the side stays are also changed, or other method of fastening the lower side cover is made. The side stays are shown in the Cowling section of the parts fiche. The side cover bands are shown in the Side Cover section. Also early 83's did not have the notch in the right side cover for access to the fuel petcock, as they did not have a reserve setting. Gary
  2. dingy
    With a 14-44-3 record against The Ohio State Buckeyes I'll bet you do root for whom ever is playing against OSU. At least it is a plan. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/OSUlogo.jpg
  3. dingy
    The Ohio State Buckeyes http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/Brutus.jpg
  4. dingy
    I am almost certain that the Ignitech box will work with the 90-93 bikes. It will actually be a better fit for these bikes due to the single pick-up coil. You can download the software at the Ingitech site. They have a fairly long list of bikes that are preprogrammed into the module. There is already a Venture XVZ 1300 in the list, but it is not for the 83-89 models. For the 83-89 we are using a Special Setting tab, not a preprogrammed bike. It may require an few emails to Ignitech, but it can be done. Gary
  5. dingy
    Is #2 cylinder still firing? If it is, it will probably still work. Also, the fuel pump is triggered of off #2, if bike is still in running, I would suspect another problem with tach. Gary
  6. dingy
    There has been some speculation on here that once the box goes bad, it stays bad. When the diodes fail, they take out some other component with them. It may be that there is a time factor to this related failure as well. It is a preventive type of maintenance. Gary
  7. dingy
    Look at post #7, this eliminates the starter relay. Gary
  8. dingy
    There is not much available in the 140/90-16 size in C/T Here is an older thread on this subject. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22779 Gary
  9. dingy
    It's that time. Gary
  10. dingy
    JB, I am still interested in a set. Gary
  11. dingy
    Transformers only work with AC, not DC. Upgrading the stator as previously suggested, along with an upgraded voltage regulator. You need to do the regulator, so the extra power from the stator doesn't get dumped to ground. And a new Absorbed Glass Mat battery. Gary
  12. dingy
    I bothered to look when I did mine. There were no identifying numbers. This is not uncommon in massed produced electronics. It is an added expense to imprint components with tagging. 1N4001 is rated at a peak reverse voltage of 50v, 35v RMS 1N4002 is rated at a peak reverse voltage of 100v, 70v RMS and so on. The TCI is a 12 volt device. Any 1N400* series diode can be used in the TCI for the 8 failing diodes. They can be mixed and matched. They will all work. Worked in my 83 TCI just fine. Gary
  13. dingy
    Getting the stock pistons out will be a challenge. First invert caliper and drain out brake fluid. What I have done on mine is to split the caliper in two pieces after you have removed them from bike. I then clamp them in a vise one half at a time. When you clamp half in, use a 1/2" thick wood backer board between vise jaws and the caliper. I put a small piece of gasket material over the bypass ports to close them off then secure in vice, clamping the gasket material. Use 'C' clamp to prevent the caliper from coming out very far at first. Put the screw portion of the 'C' clamp into the open end of the piston and the body portion of the clamp on the caliper body. Tighten the clamp up till it is a little less than snug, so as to allow the piston to move some. With an air hose, set on low pressure, put the nozzle into the brake line port on one side, with a rag over end of nozzle. Rag will help seal nozzle into inlet port. On other half of caliper, put it into the bleeder screw port, when you do other side. Put some air pressure into the calipers. Watch and see if piston start to move. If it moves loosen clamp up a little and hit with air again. If it doesn't move, increase air pressure some. You need to bring the caliper out slowly. If you hit it with air without a clamp on it it will come out of caliper body like a bullet. Slowly push it out and loosen clamp till you hear it pop past seal. Wear safety glasses doing this. When it pops past seal, brake fluid and debris will fly out. Also do not have your fingers in a place where piston will pinch them when it comes out. If you are doing this on quad piston calipers, put a clamp on each piston, two on each half. Work them out evenly. Once you pop one out the other one will have to be worked out by hand. Hopefully, if they were brought out evenly, there will be very little left engaging seal. If you were to bring one out all the way before the other one, the remaining one will be difficult to get out. I am sure others will have different methods to remove pistons, but this has worked for me. Gary
  14. dingy
    The tape is not standard. There is an O'ring on the pipe that goes into water pump to prevent leaking. Tape was very likely to stop a leak. Does the front of the pipe that the tape was around have a nick on it? If it does, this likely happened when bike went over on right side and front crash guard was pushed into the pipe, possibly causing it to leak. Gary
  15. dingy
    The 1200 (MKI) is shorter than the 1300 (MKII) Also MKI does not have seal like MKII does. Had wrong picture in my previous post, fixed now. Gary
  16. dingy
    I downloaded ver 3.6.8 and it seems to be working OK. Gary
  17. dingy
    If you do put an MKI drive in an MKII, you must also use the MKI drive shaft. They are different lengths. MKII is bottom shaft in picture. Gary
  18. dingy
    It was a Street Glide, see picture in first post. Road Glide has a frame mounted fairing, similar to 1st Gen's. That was the one I wanted to ride, but it was already spoken for. Gary
  19. dingy
    Has anyone else been having problems with Firefox loading this site the past week? Only had problems with this site. Explorer loads it OK. Any suggestions as to a fix for Firefox. Gary
  20. dingy
    Below is a link to a write up detailing using a relay to take the load away from the ignition switch. It is on the last three pages of this relay & wiring primer. Before & after schematics. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43150 This is located in the General Tech section. Gary
  21. dingy
    I took a test ride at a Columbus Oh. HD dealer today C&A Harleys. My son wanted to take a test ride and I agreed to go along. The one I would have liked to rode, Road Glide, was already spoken for when we could go and my son could get the one he wanted. The bike was a CVO Street Glide, 110 cu inches, which is 1800 cc. Fuel injected six speed. It was a very comfortable bike, Great guaging and controls. I have never been a fan of forward controls or a fork mounted fairing, but I did like the bike. It handled well at low speed when cornering. I probably would have liked it better, as far as comfort, if it would have had a drivers backrest. I felt like I was pulling back against the handlebars when riding it. Now the downside. It shook like an out of balance washing machine at idle. This smoothed out once under way. When accelerating it felt like the bike was starting to develop some power and it hit the rev limiter. With the six speed transmission, it seemed like I was shifting to often. I felt like my Venture would have probably been about 5 bike lengths ahead of the HD when I hit second. It just didn't have any really impressive power for a 1800 cc engine. MSRP was $31,000. It would make a nice cruiser for someone that didn't want any really impressive performance though. Bottom line is I am very happy with my dinosaur 1st gen. Even if I hit the lottery, this would not be my next bike. Did see an RSV there and left a Venture business card on the seat. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/Harleyrides.jpg
  22. dingy
    How about Wife Abuse Gary
  23. dingy
    Below is a link that gives some info on uploading pictures. They need to be under 800 x 600 resolution. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44037 Gary
  24. dingy
    Probably the next thing to try would be rejetting. Easy way to experiment with this is to reduce the size of PAJ2 or the main air jet. Either of these can be accessed without removing the carbs from the bike. Reducing these air jets helps richen the A/F ratio. PAJ2 is behind the diaphrams and Main air jet is in upper venturi. Most straight forward way would be to increase the size of the main fuel jet. This is located inside the fuel bowl. Removing the carbs is required. On the MKII's there is a 125 main jet. Increasing this to about 140 or 150 would be get rid of lean condition. I have a 150 main jet and a 160 PAJ2 in mine. The PAJ2 was 180 in the 1st gens. I drilled my jets out. This is not the recommended way, but it does work. There is some discussion that drilling a jet tends to induce swirling in the fluid flowing through them. This has been shown to be detrimental in achieving maximum HP on a dyno, but for the hobbyist it is sufficient. Gary
  25. dingy
    There is no headlight relay on the 1st gens. Everything is controlled by the Reserve Lighting Unit. Some more information as to the headlight problems would be helpful in suggesting a remedy. Gary
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