Jump to content

dingy

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    5,403

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Polish the commutator face with 600 grit emery. Lightly do the same to brush contact face. Check the depth of the mica insulators. Do an electrical ohm test between coils 1.5M ohm or more. Put a SMALL amount of grease in bearings. Too much is bad. Reassemble. Gary
  2. dingy
    Minimum brush length is 4.5 mm or .177" Page 7-5 of service manual If you do not have a copy you can download it at location shown in this thread. This one is the only complete 83-85 manual I have found. Most of them are missing about 10 pages. Snaggletooth scanned the missing pages from his hardcopy & I inserted them were needed. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43688 Gary
  3. dingy
    Are you pulling vacuum from one carb port? Gary
  4. dingy
    Just a little more info to further confuse this. Mikuni jets are not sized by hole dia. They are sized by flow rate. I do not have a chart that shows the smaller sizes, but below is one that lists the differences between Mikuni & Dynojet sizes. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/mikuni-dynojetsize.jpg
  5. dingy
    I would disagree with the gentleman from up north. The air jets in our Mikuni carbs are there to induce atmospheric clean air into the fuel circuits. Enlarging these jets will have the effect to lean out the final A/F ratio. See attached crosssection view of very similar Vmax carb. Items #2 & #4 are the changeable air jets. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/vmaxcarb.jpg
  6. dingy
    Oh, I was wondering how long before you made an appearance. I know this is an issue near and dear to your heart. Right up there with the darksiders. Cheers, Gary
  7. dingy
    Do not use an Analog meter for digital circuits. Only use a Digital Meter, it has to do with the bridging circuits in an analog meter. You can destroy an integrated circuit chip with an analog. An analog meter is one with a swinging needle that is read against a scale behind the needle. Gary
  8. dingy
    Actually, reducing the back pressure was the reason I opened the mufflers up. It just didn't seem to make sense to have a 3" dia. piston (7.068 sq in) exhausting through two 1" dia. holes (1.570 sq in) I have never had a real loud bike, I didn't like them. This is without a doubt the loudest I have ever had. I still have a somewhat stock set of mufflers that were on the bike before I rebuilt it. Much mellower. Most of the guys I ride with have HD's. This is quieter than any of them. It is not nearly as loud as any number of HD's I have seen. It is fairly reasonable at low rpm's. The audio clip above was taken very close and inside a garage. The mufflers are the smallest point for flow in the exhaust system. I have added Vmax heads & cams and did this in an effort to improve the flow through the system. The carbs were rejetted, but considering the other mods to my bike, the numbers would be meaningless to a stock venture. As far as the neighbors, there are some people that will always be unhappy, but if you don't hit 6,000 rpm on the way out the drive, they will still be unhappy. Gary
  9. dingy
    WTF ? I'm not even sure how to respond to this one. Gary
  10. dingy
    I cutoff the extension at the seam first. Drilled a 1/2" hole towards outer edge of rearward baffle. Then I used a Dewalt reciprocating saw to cut out around the rear baffle. Middle baffle is spot welded in. I used a long chisel to break it out. I left the front baffle in. Attached is another picture of mid baffle. Click below for a sound clip. Taken from about 5 feet behind bike. [ATTACH]49343[/ATTACH] Gary
  11. dingy
    If a Modulator is used and is in working order, I do not believe it would diminish bulb life by a measurable amount. I think some people are confusing modulators, which are legal, with strobe lights, which are illegal. Below is a portion of the DOT regulations concerning modulators. S7.9.4.1 A headlamp on a motorcycle may be wired to modulate either the upper beam or the lower beam from its maximum intensity to a lesser intensity, provided that: (a) The rate of modulation shall be 240 40 cycles per minute. (b) The headlamp shall be operated at maximum power for 50 to 70 percent of each cycle. © The lowest intensity at any test point shall be not less than 17 percent of the maximum intensity measured at the same point. Summary: 200 minimum cycles per minute, 50% minimum at full voltage & no more than 17% dip in intensity. Gary
  12. dingy
    You could refer to this thread from a month ago that covers many members feelings on this matter. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51055 Gary
  13. dingy
    For the most part, yes you can put the 1st gen Vmax in a 1st gen venture frame. A few problems will be encountered. The vmax shifter linkage differs from the venture setup, This will be problematic getting to work with the foot pegs. Carb throttle linkage on the pull cable will need to be reworked, due to height of carbs being higher with V boost. Choke linkage is different. Another route is to upgrade the venture engine. There are a number of members here that have used the heads, cams and rear end of a vmax. A few have put the v boost system on. Gary
  14. dingy
    For all of you folks that have a favorite team & also whom ever is playing XYZ team. I really like The Ohio State Buckeyes, and would be ecstatic if they won every game. There is also another team that is great to see have a good year, It's the Michigan Wolverines. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/MichSlash.jpg I love it when the traditional final game of our college season rolls around and we can meet our arch rivals from up north. It is also all the better when the Michigan game comes around and those boys look like they haven't been touched all year. Clean shiny uniforms, and a perfect 10-0-0 record. Then when they get their butts kicked in the Shoe and all hopes of a national title are gone, it is a great feeling to know that we did it to them. No Rose Bowl game for Michigan, maybe they will get a shot at the Papa John's Bowl or the Chick-fil-a-Bowl. It's been six long years since Michigan has beat OSU, some kids at Michigan had to go their whole college career and never beat OSU, So Sorry. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1aOYyKTu0Ys]YouTube- Ohio State Football 2010!!!! (IT GAVE ME CHILLS WATCHING THIS...)[/ame] Live long & prosper with Coach Tressel Gary
  15. dingy
    Same thing happened at a bar one time. Keys fell down and disappeared. Borrowed a flashlight from band and went fishin'. Gary
  16. dingy
    Thought you were here for a minute. I live in Mansfield (Oh) and the neighboring town is Ontario. Gary
  17. dingy
    Dano, Is this one you are referring to? aedlee, Check ignition fuse in fuse block, second one down. Check that it is secure in fuse block, these tabs weaken and do not provide good contact. If bike is cranking, the only switches involved would be the tip switch in headlight bucket or the side stand switch. Try starting with bike in neutral & side stand up. If it starts, probably side stand switch. Check pickup coil connector. Located near rear shock air damper adjustment, behind side cover. Gary
  18. dingy
    Dan, You might want to try Ethyl alcohol, drugstores sell it, but it is not as common as Isopropyl alcohol. It is much purer than Iso. It will plainly say Ethyl on the label. Gary
  19. dingy
    Found a picture of the thermostat mounted to block. Also, you mentioned you had trouble with the cross brace. On right side of picture, there is a bracket shown that can be unbolted from frame to remove cross brace tube. Gary
  20. dingy
    You can rotate the tire a few degrees with the bike in gear. There is some play rotationally. There should be no side play whatsoever. If there is side play I would suggest you find the cause of it before you ride it. I would guess a bearing is going. Even with moderate torque on axle you should not be able to move it sideways. Gary
  21. dingy
    There are two of the #21 bolts holding the metal housing in place. You may also need to remove the right front crash bar to get the 90^ pipe out of the water pump housing. Gary
  22. dingy
    What do you mean by the final drive halves? In general, no, there should be no play in the rear end components. But I am not sure where you are referring to. Picture below shows the sensor for the fan. This was taken from an 88 setup, but I think the 85 is very similar. You should be able to reach these if you pull the cover behind radiator on right side with the mesh screen in it. Blue arrow is a ground for the temp. gauge & fan circuit. Green arrow is temp. gauge connector. Red arrow is fan connector. Gary
  23. dingy
    Do you know if the fuel pump or tach wiring has been modified ? Per the wiring schematic, which may not be correct, the tach & fuel pump should live together & die together if #2 is firing or not. As in firing, I mean getting a signal from the TCI. The coil could go bad & #2 would not fire, but tach & fuel pump would work. Gary
  24. dingy
    Steve, Here is a picture of what it will look like after you remove the metal lower thermostat housing. Your left header pipe will still be on. The black valve in front will pull straight out, once you remove the lock screw on the right side. If it will help you any, you can call me about any sane hour. Use the first number in my profile. Gary
  25. dingy
    I think you mean the Big 12 ? Gary
×
×
  • Create New...