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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    I believe that plug is for the condenser. The condensers purpose is to reduce radio & CB noise. Bike will run fine without it. Condenser is at top center of attached picture, with writing on it. Gary
  2. dingy
    I wouldn't use a standard relay for the fuel pump relay. It may cause a failure of the TCI. Attached is a picture of a 1st gen fuel pump relay inside. Some of the circuitry is a snubbing circuit for the coil of the relay. This helps bridge the pulses that are coming from the TCI. A problem that you may have is that when a relay has power removed from it, the coil induces a voltage spike into the controlling circuit. This is due to the energized armature field collapsing. With the armature being tied into the TCI, strange and bad things may happen. If you are interested in this relay, PM. I cut the cover off of it, but it can be reattached, and still be functional. I probably have a diode pack here somewhere also. Gary
  3. dingy
    Attached is a picture of center stand & spring. Gary
  4. dingy
    Presently there are 273 users online, no doubt due to contest email. How was the all time high of 604 obtained on 4/8/2008 ? Was it a planned event? Gary
  5. dingy
    Some insurance companies will let you keep the bike for a small percentage of a total loss payout. If it is not to badly damaged it may be worthwhile for you to keep it and repair it or part it out. Good that you to are safe and somewhat intact. Gary
  6. dingy
    Here is link to wiring diagrams. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42358 Replacing fuses is a fairly easy job. I used inline fuses holders for mine They are about $3.50 at O'Rielys Auto Parts. I liked the ones at O'Rielys better than Auto Zone. They are for 20 amp circuits and below. Auto Zones are for 30 amp circuits. The 20 amp ones are big enough and the slightly smaller wire is easier to manipulate and solder. The glass fuses are used on the Accy, Headlight, Ignition Signal & taillight circuits. There is already an ATC style fuse block in the MKII's that is probably still OK. On the 89, the ATC block holds the fuses for the Radio, Radio backup, Fan and Hazard circuits. I added a terminal block from O'Rielys for the Accessory hookups. I mounted to a piece of 1/4" UHMW (plastic) and fastened it under battery strap. This replaced the fuse block that was mounted under strap, so it maintained tension on strap. Attached picture shows added Accy block. Gary
  7. dingy
    Like they don't wear at different rates with integrated brakes. And one of the biggest hazards with linked brakes on an MKI is the anti dives are independent on the front forks. If you only use the front brake, only the one forks anti dive engages. Same with only use of rear brake. This was resolved with the electric anti dives on the MKII's Gary
  8. dingy
    This will be a good one. I do love a parade. I agree with SilvrT btw. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/kangaroo.gif
  9. dingy
    What you have refers to the diameter of the bolt shafts, not the nut socket size. It is useful if looking for a replacement fastener. Gary
  10. dingy
    Whoops !! Gary
  11. dingy
    Here are some pictures of what I did to mine. I moved it 2" rearward. [ATTACH]49568[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]49569[/ATTACH] Picture with and without filler. I had filler made by an Amish guy, cost $20. It needs to be removed so backrest can be slid forward to remove. [ATTACH]49573[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]49574[/ATTACH] Foam covered filler [ATTACH]49570[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]49571[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]49572[/ATTACH] Views of remounted rack. [ATTACH]49577[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]49578[/ATTACH] View of mounts. These were made from a 12" piece of angle I had laying around. [ATTACH]49575[/ATTACH] Closeup of relocated antenna mount and modified loop rod. Antenna mount was cutoff from behind the loop rod and welded forward of the loop rod. Antenna cable would not have cleared turn signal otherwise. [ATTACH]49576[/ATTACH] View of front bar on rack that was cut to clear air compressor. Front bar on rack would have interfered with air compressor, so it was cut out. Gary
  12. dingy
    As opposed to the $75 Yamaha relay. That would have been my choice. Would have been in by now & $70 cheaper. Gary
  13. dingy
    There probably is not much that can be done internally to repair it. The coil must be open, only if it opened at the solder connections, could it be repaired, short of rewinding the coil. Other possibility could be contacts arced and welded together. This might be repairable. Below is a picture of the internals of a venture style relay. The relay in the picture has a different contact configuration from the side stand relay. The one shown is a Normally Open configuration. The side stand is a Normally Closed configuration. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/relay3a.jpg
  14. dingy
    Out of curiosity, I just took some readings on my bike. With a digital Beckman 310 meter I read no AC voltage. I also checked it with an analog Simpon 260 meter. The analog measured 13 volts AC. I also checked it with 2 other analog meters I have with the same readings. I swapped out the rectifier with a spare I have with the same results. A rectifier typically will not give a true DC waveform if viewed on an oscilloscope. Normally there will be a pulsing waveform. This is shown in the picture below. If a smoother waveform is required, capacitance is added to the circuitry. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/3phaseregulation.jpg
  15. dingy
    I doubt that the relay is defective, it may be, but unlikely. Did you do the ohm meter testing outlined in post #32 on the sidestand switch, copied next? With an ohm meter, on the switch end of the connector, connect one lead to the black wire and the other lead to either of the other two wires. You should have 0 ohms with the side stand up and infinite ohms with side stand down. Reading should be the same between black wire & either of other two wires. If it is not, side stand switch is bad. If this checks out OK then test the relay next. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT0563.jpg The two terminals to the right side are the coil circuit, with an ohm meter these should read 100 ohms. The two terminals to the left are the contacts, with an ohm meter these should read 0 ohms. Energize the relay with 12v, polarity does not matter, using the two right contacts. Relay should click. If it does, the two contacts on the left should read infinite ohms while relay is energized. Gary
  16. dingy
    Pull the air cleaner lid off and remove the air filter. Start the bike. Look down into the top of the carb bank and rev the engine. Do all 4 air sliders move at about the same amount? These will retract into body as engine is reved. Gary
  17. dingy
    Don't have that one, I had an extra mid drive. Gary
  18. dingy
    You can, but if you take off with the stand down you may find 750 lbs of dead weight on top of you. Unlike the linked brakes, this is a safety feature I like. Gary
  19. dingy
    Randy, Have you considered using MKII mounts? The MKI mounts are much weaker than the MKII's. Below is a picture of the MKI's The MKII's are still rubber, but they don't have the ribbing around the contact area, which makes them significantly stronger. I am using MKII's in mine and am satisfied with them. I thing Skydoc mentioned not long ago that he had put solid ones in his. His opinion seemed mixed about them. One thing I think he said was there was an increased vibration with the solid mounts. Gary
  20. dingy
    Stator cover or mid drive cover? Gary
  21. dingy
    Something like this? Gary
  22. dingy
    4 U 8 - 0 0 is correct relay. Next, I would look at the side stand switch. It is shown in the attached picture. In this picture the rubber boot is not correctly located. It should be back against the large body of the switch. Watch the switch plunger as you put the side stand up and down. Does it move out? Some one posted here recently that thier switch was hanging up due to the rubber boot. If it looks like it is moving OK, next follow the wire cable back to the connector near the air ride damper adjuster. It will be a 3 prong connector. It will have a Black wire, a Blue with Yellow tracer wire and a Green with Yellow tracer wire. The Black wire is a ground wire. Disconnect the wiring connector. Look for corrosion or bad contacts inside both ends. When the side stand is up, all three of these wires are connected in the switch. When the side stand is down, all three of these wires are disconnected in the switch. With an ohm meter, on the switch end of the connector, connect one lead to the black wire and the other lead to either of the other two wires. You should have 0 ohms with the side stand up and infinite ohms with side stand down. Reading should be the same between black wire & either of other two wires. If it is not, side stand switch is bad. If it is the switch that is bad, I would recommend you get a replacement switch. There are some on here that will say you don't need switch and it can be bypassed, but this switch will save your butt when working if you forget to put side stand up. As far as fuel pump relay clicking, is it the relay in the headlight bucket clicking, or is it the fuel pump itself? Gary
  23. dingy
    Your not tweeting, try typing it all out. 4 U B Gary
  24. dingy
    This probably doesn't make my Top Ten List of Stupid, but it is motorcycle related. The main cruising road in town where I live is about a mile long, on the west end there is a large parking lot that is used as a turnaround. It has been there for a long time. Picture below shows it with the Venture setting in parking lot, just off of the street. I took this tonight to give a visual with this. As you can see to the left side of the entrance to the parking lot the pavement drops down to street level about 2 1/2 feet from the white line to the sidewalk. About 30 years ago, I was on a 750 Honda and came turning into this lot, just about in line where the venture is sitting, way to fast. When I hit the incline, I was catapulted into the air, I maintained a death grip on the handle bars My body was straight up in the air, upside down as I clung to the bike. This was observed by my cousin behind me. If this were the end of the story, it would have been an exiting ride. But, what goes up, must come down. I quickly pivoted back down onto the seat of the bike, firmly mashing the family jewels. I kept the bike up, but barely as I recall. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/IMG00079.jpg
  25. dingy
    If you removed the side stand relay and it started, the relay is functioning through the contacts as it should. The side stand relay is the only one in the 1st gens that has its contacts closed with no energy to the coil. When the coil gets energized, the contacts open. Put the relay back in socket and hold it in your hand, turn switch on, have some one move side stand up and down. You should feel relay energize and drop out when this is done. The dash indicator works independent of the relay, it should function regardless if relay is in or not. Below is a link to the 1st gen wiring diagrams on this site. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42358 Gary
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