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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    The ignition system is separate from the gauges. Lights are somewhat tied to cluster, but only in the form of indicators. Anti dives are a separate system linked to the brake light. Below is a link to the wiring diagrams inline. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42358 Gary
  2. dingy
    Replace the fork seals. I recommend using OEM seals, not the aftermarket ones. Some here have had problems with the aftermarket ones leaking, others have had no problems though. Gary
  3. dingy
    None I hope. I am using an RSV splitter on my 1st gen. I put MKII brakes on, front and rear. Put on all stainless lines. I had to custom mount splitter, but it is working fine. Gary
  4. dingy
    Do you have all the air box to carb connectors seated & tight. This sounds a little like the running symptoms when the air box lid is off. Gary
  5. dingy
    I will admit Hydraulics is not my best subject, but I did spend 6 years designing centrifugal & reciprocating pumps. An analogy to the relationship between the plunger (driving) area and applied force to the plunger is to think of having a large common nail in your hand, one with a head on one end and a point on the other. Grasp this nail at the shank and place it against your arm with the large head on the arm and apply some pressure to the shank towards your arm. Now, flip the nail over, with the point towards your arm, and apply the same pressure to the shank of the nail. You will notice that with the point towards your arm, it hurts more. This is because the contact area has been reduced and there is now higher PSI being imparted on your arm. PSI = Force / Area http://www.engineershandbook.com/Tables/fluidpowerformulas.htm The same thing happens with a plunger in a master cylinder. As the surface area of the plunger decreases, the amount of PSI imparted on the hydraulic fluid increases, given the same force pushing the plunger. I made a drawing below illustrating an example of this. The force imparted on the piston would be a measurement of the increased force between the top of the piston and the bottom of the caliper. The force on the plunger would be the same as putting a 30 pound weight on the plunger with the body in a fixed position. I did not show seals, reservoir or bleeders here. What Pegscrapper said about keeping system components together is a good practice. Where this gets thrown out the window is when someone with an MKI wants to upgrade the brakes and delink the front and rear. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/hydsystem.jpg
  6. dingy
    Since your radio presets were lost, it would seem your problem is in the battery connections. The radio has a non-switched 12v positive feed going to it. This does not go through the ignition switch. The purpose of this circuit is to retain the radio memory. Gary
  7. dingy
    I don't think TCI would cause any of those problems. I would look at all the battery connections. Main ground on right front of engine block. Stator to harness connection near air ride damper adjuster. Gary
  8. dingy
    I think that is a stock spring. I just measured one of my old stock springs and it matches your length. Look at post below, did you take out parts that look like ones in second picture from above springs? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51365 Gary
  9. dingy
    Do you mean an internal tooth star lock washer? www.mcmaster.com has these. Gary
  10. dingy
    That is something that is not is the factory specs for the Ventures. They are a different P/N from the 93 MKII to the 99 RSV though. Gary
  11. dingy
    I believe that the front calipers on the RSV only have two pistons on one side of each caliper. On the 1st gen MKII's there are 4 pistons, two on each side of each caliper. Unlike the MKII's the RSV is now controlling both front calipers, no unified braking system. End result is basically the same surface area is being driven by the front master. But now, with both front calipers being activated by the front master, the total front braking force increases via the front master. There was probably a design decision to reduce the PSI on the front brakes to reduce lockup. The rear brake master went from a 17.46 mm master to a 12.46 mm. This would reduce the amount of fluid flow, due to rear no longer tied to front brake. It would have also increased the PSI. The rear brakes are still a 4 piston arrangement on the RSV, same as MKII. They may have made a design change in the rear brake linkage to reduce the mechanical force on the piston, so as to lower PSI that is transmitted to rear caliper. I'm am just speculating about this though. They may not have as I recall some here have modified the rear brake by inserting a flow valve in series with the rear caliper to reduce lockup. Gary
  12. dingy
    See, you missed another seed.
  13. dingy
    As the plunger diameter in the master decreases,the PSI increases, with less flow volume being created. What this translates to is with the same amount of pressure on the brake lever the force imparted on the caliper pistons will be higher with a smaller master plunger. It also means that the lever will need to travel further to move the caliper pistons the same distance. This is standard hydraulics theory. If you want high flow, use a large plunger. If you want high pressure, use a small plunger. This is assuming the same amount of input force is been applied to the system. Somewhat like taking a garden hose and putting your thumb on the end. This is similar to reducing the plunger size. Now the water coming out is at a higher pressure, but much less volume. Gary
  14. dingy
    In essence we are talking about the same engine. Bore & stroke are identical. Same basic head configuration. That's a big difference for cams. Valve lift numbers are identical in the service manual for 2nd gen's & RSV's. The RSV does list a cranking speed 175/r min. The 86-93 spec does not list any RPM's. Maybe they were spinning the RSV faster. What is the rev limiter set at on a stock RSV? Gary
  15. dingy
    Service manual shows following weights: 83-85 752 wet 86-93 783 wet RSV 869 wet Something else has puzzled me before about the RSV service manual specs. The RSV has a 10.0 to 1 compression ratio and is listed as 216 PSI compression pressure. The 86-93 is listed at 10.5 to 1 compresion ratio with 176 compression pressure. The two sets of numbers seem to conflict. Gary
  16. dingy
    I looked at Royal Star specs when I was creating post, my bad. I added edit to my first post. That is still a reduction, albeit not as much. Gary
  17. dingy
    I am going to try a modified version of SaltyDog's idea. Though instead of lengthening the tab, I am trying to make the rubber holder thicker in the front. I had a piece of 1/4" pliable sheet rubber that I cut a piece out of and attached to the front of the rubber washer on the front mount. The cover now seems very snug when mounted. I'll see if this works, if not, next in line is Snaggletooth's suggestion to rotate the rear mount. Yes, that is in place. A few of my usual pictures attached. I do love digital cameras !! Gary
  18. dingy
    Let me start by saying I have no direct experience with an RSV. The main thing I see in the specifications that hurt that motor is 28 mm carbs. Edit, Service manual does show 32 mm carbs for the RSV, I errored in looking at Royal Star specs. The 1st gens have 34 mm carbs. If the motor can't pull air into the cylinders, HP is going to be affected. Cams will help, due to keeping valves open longer. Next thing would be increasing compression ratio. This can be done without machining heads by using a thinner head gasket. Higher compression = HP. Last suggestion would be a programmable ignition module. Most bikes are setup from the factory with EPA regulations being a prime tuning factor. Dynatek D3K7-5 or the Ignitech module would be a help. Gary
  19. dingy
    Is that your actual plate number, or did you Photoshop it? Would be a hard one to forget. Gary
  20. dingy
    Joe, I would encourage you to mount the TCI on top of the air cover while you have it out. You already have the one tab cut off that you need to do to mount it on the airbox anyways. You need to do this in order to get the tank cover to seat properly. Cut tab goes towards battery. It gets it away from the heat of the cylinder head, as well as in a dry location. You do not have to cut any wires to do this. Just reroute them. Looks like you caught the diodes just in time. That was a good solution to open up the box as well. I had difficulty with lifting traces when I unsoldered the board from the box, what you did looks nice. Gary
  21. dingy
    Way !! The rear tab is intact, grommet & bushing are present and accounted for. Gary
  22. dingy
    The gasket is in place and seems pliable yet. Gary
  23. dingy
    Does anyone have a suggestion for making the tank cover not pop out of the front holder on a 1st gen? This has happened a few times and it is a little distracting when it does this. It only does it around 90+ mph. I will help those that have the obvious answer, stay within the speed limit. I know that one, but it cuts into the fun factor. Gary
  24. dingy
    Attached below is a picture of a set of carbs. Just above the crossbar that the two black hoses are sticking out of there is a hole on the right carb. On the left carb there is a plug in this hole. I believe yours will have a brass plug in the hole. Don't drill very big, or deep. Hole size is just under 1/4" in the carb body. Mixture screw head is about 1" inset Drill a hole large enough to get a wood screw started in. You can the grip the screw and work the plug out. You do not have to plug holes when you are done adjusting. Gary
  25. dingy
    Early 83's do not have a reserve setting on the petcock. If it does have a reserve setting, I think they put a notch in the right side cover so you can reach it without pulling cover off. This started towards the end of the 83 run and continued on. Gary
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