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About greg_in_london

  • Rank
    Supporting Member
  • Birthday 02/17/1967

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  • Location
    London E3 3RG, United Kingdom


  • City
    London SE10 0HA


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  • Home Country
    United Kingdom


  • Interests
    As well as riding bikes I play quite a bit of traditional music - english, irish and scottish.
  • Bike Year and Model
    1983 Venture Royale and QM1 sidecar

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  1. Hi Cimmer, This is the closest I've found to what you said, though EBay says it will not fit the Rav4. There is a whole bunch of equivalents, but the makers don't seem to tally across the pond. For a tenner I might just get one and see. If it doesn't fit I can just try running it without a thermostat and see what effect it has. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233914467352?fits=Car+Make%3AToyota|Model%3ACorolla&hash=item3676638418:g:CRoAAOSwqo1gPC1A these are the cross references - I don't know if you will have heard of any of the companies over here: Cross references
  2. Patch - What is it that you think could be the problem ? You think that an oil problem could cause overheating like this without parts failing ? The carbs were a problem, but seem fairly good now and were balanced with decent gauges. The exhaust could be a problem and does need work, but I don't see why it would cause overheating if all pipes are a similar temperature and it runs okay on the road. Did you mean use the infra red gauge on the casing by the plugs ? Actually taking them all out takes longer than a couple of minutes, so I'm not sure what you're saying. The cams could do with s
  3. Thanks for that - I can see that is available for pennies in the USA ($5.99) but couldn't track it down here. Most of our parts shops have been taken over by big chains who can find nothing not on their computer system (which means if I can't spot it on their website they won't be able to either). When I get the chance to ask I will though, even though I have one on order already because I don't really want to wait. All four exhausts warm nicely as it warms up. Tiny differences in where I point the the tester give widely different temperatures (80-120 degrees, though I didn't run it for l
  4. Good thought. Each cylinder is hot to the touch, but with water cooling it would do. I do think it is running on all four though - I've had a misfire before and think I remember what it's like (easy not to though - it does still run with three). The obvious way to be 100% sure is to use an infra red thermometer on each exhaust pipe, which I can do easily. It would have sounded lumpy because of a questionable seal from the front left downpipe to the collector box, loose ones to the silencers and, most crucially, a poor seal on the rear right nasty/silly olive joint thingy. The collector bo
  5. Hopefully I haven't tried to be too clever. I took pictures and video and combined them. I had to use a rubber bung upside down to block the rad cap hole and then run a bit of hose to get round the fairing. It took some fluid out first so it wouldn't go up the tube. Later I put it back in case the surge tank was allowing a by-pass, which didn't help and I wouldn't recommend. Basically I didn't see significant bubbling and I'm pretty sure there were no leaks around the bung - I squirted fluid and it didn't obviously bubble. Look at the pictures and video here (it isn't too long):
  6. I've changed the rad cap for a new after market one. It certainly holds some pressure, though I have no way of measuring exactly how much. Once it starts bubbling though, it really bubbles, more like there is a hot spot that is vaporising the coolant. I'm using a pre-mixed G12+ coolant that I think is fairly high spec. The vapour tester kit arrived just as we were going out to get my second jab and then going shopping, so now I just need to summon up the courage to do the test.
  7. Lol - I do a lot of home brewing and this is kit looks like the easiest work around ever. All it is is the bubble trap that pushes into the bung in the top of a demijohn. I have several, though they may supply a different sized bung. It was a brilliant idea all the same and the amount of liquid looked like it would do enough tests to persuade me if I want more. You can't use a vacuum pump on it of course, but I'm still quite looking forwards to giving it a whirl. I may need to use an extension pipe because of the space limitations between the fairing and radiator, but that will be no problem.
  8. That tool to test for engine/combustion chamber leaks is a good test - something I'd been wishing for for another vehicle, but had never heard of. To begin with I bought the one most easily available, which will hopefully be here Wednesday: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284004648824?epid=15031188540&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item421fff0778:g:XPEAAOSwoUBfw8Wh&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACkBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickk7PdDazAlGltMLJlUhrWsD1SxGjmhb6XUcLGvpOvmVEiglH2cBj%2Fv5Uo4zcLTcNjA%2BrOhlgItsFUC%2BSqAvtbk6il7zNLrI8sgKSo0Jl98oXJ2718xp%2F9yt8YV2CDjXgOuaNozkJmawBA5B8Su78UqJ0BDN8N
  9. I'm putting this down here to help think it through and get all sorts of useful suggestions. After taking it out last night, I got caught in traffic and watched the expansion bottle bubbling like mad - I ran it without the plastic cover on so I actually see it ! It does seem to hold pressure, though it bubbles just before it reaches the red on the gauge. I definitely had to top up the fluid before taking it out to give the rad flush a chance to clean it out (it was too late when I got back last night). It was boiling up again by the time I got back. I thought I was a bit hasty waiting for
  10. November 2018 - That's a long time without an update, going back way before lockdown. I said a few posts up that it seemed that if I didn't get things finished at once, there would be a long delay before I had time again and then other faults would start to emerge. Well I did get the carbs sorted and working nicely. I had to replace a rotted out downpipe and had a lot of problems with the collector box joints. The exhaust is mostly sealing now, though those olive joint seals on the back two downpipes are never 100% right. I thought I had fixed a slow leak on the rear wheel by polishing th
  11. All I'd say is that if you are getting new stainless steel hoses, it's a good time to consider de-linking the brakes on the basis you could be paying for the hoses again if you decide to de-link later. It's no biggy if you make your own, but obviously a few dollars more if you don't. If you might be removing the proportioning valve, leave another couple of inches loose on the rear pipe so you can be sure it still reaches (I didn't and so the hose on my is pretty tight).
  12. I don't think there was a way that India could have had a different result with the number of people, the healthcare and the range of levels of poverty. I contributed something through the British Red Cross the other day, but really they need access to vaccines and international help - as will other countries in similar conditions. I'll be getting my second jab next week and it's good for me to feel "I'm all right", but India needs help producing enough of its own as well.
  13. I'm glad to see that you've extended the sidecar chassis as to my mind these sidecars are WAY to light for a Venture. I know they are popular in the states, but here they came on the side of 350 Jawas - half the weight and a quarter of the power. With the standard wheel I've bent a stub axle on a Velorex 562 chassis with the extra power of putting one on a GS550. If you are always gentle with it, you may be okay, but if there is anything tougher on offer - or you can weld your own chassis - I'd recommend that option instead.
  14. It doesn't cover the sizes for the pilot jet, but it does reinforce the idea that the #37 .5 pilot jet has a hole 0.375mm. I had thought it was a measurement of flow, but it is obviously around that size as .25 goes through and 0.38/40 doesn't.
  15. The E-string from my fiddle was 0.22mm and much stiffer than the fuse wire and was perfect, except for the jet that wouldn't come out and was stuck in the housing. For that I took the plastic inner from a biro (rinsed the ink out and) cut a length 30-40mm long. Then I could thread the fiddle string through the middle and it was much easier to push it through the jet - or easier to know when I had it in place. I kept alternating between pushing the wire through, soaking teh jet in degreasant and an ultrasound cleaner. If done all four and rebuilt the carbs and done a bench synch. Now I need
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