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dthomso1

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  • Name
    Doug

location

  • Location
    Mono, ON, Canada

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  • City
    Mono

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  • State/Province
    ON

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  • Home Country
    Canada

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  • Bike Year and Model
    85 VR, 13 Honda CRF250L
  1. dthomso1
    Here's mine: JYA59H005FA000598
  2. dthomso1
    You are probably correct - my rear tire shows a manufacturing date of 2003 while the front is a 2005 vintage.
  3. dthomso1
    My E3's are now 10 years old. As I have only had the bike for 5 of those years, I am uncertain as to how many miles are on them. There is adequate tread and no checks or cracking is visible - as a casual observation they look fine - but at 10 years of age, I do worry about what I cannot see! Anyone have any thoughts on the usefulness (and safety) of old tires?
  4. dthomso1
    Thanks guys. The part is still listed on several websites, but Yamaha has recently delisted them. Partshark now cannot get it either. One part jobber told me that Yamaha, along with some other Japanese suppliers have delisted hundreds of parts recently due to damage that some of their suppliers in Japan suffered during the recent tsunami and that rather than source new suppliers for mundane and outdated parts, they are just removing them from the catalogue. Not sure how true it is, but it makes a good story! I may have to hump down to Brantford to visit the spring suppliers there! Thanks again guys.
  5. dthomso1
    Anyone have a work-around for a broken torsion spring - it returns the brake pedal to position (if it isn't broken like mine!)? The spring is no longer available from Yamaha and I am growing weary of having to lift the pedal with my toe to stop the rear brake from activating. Any ideas?
  6. dthomso1
    Thanks guys for the suggestions. The inside contact area of the rotor is perfectly normal. Gary may be on to something - perhaps I switched the front and rear calipers! I'll have a look tomorrow as long as life doesn't get in the way. I think I will pull the axle to ensure I reassembled it correctly It is indeed a Mk. 1 rotor. Thanks again! Doug
  7. dthomso1
    Does anyone have a suggestion as to why my rear brake rotor seems to be only making good contact with the outer half of the swept area? Rotor is new and the caliper recently rebuilt by one of the pros on this board. I have been underwhelmed by the braking action at the rear - it is worse than with the old, worn rotor, caliper and old rubber brake hoses!
  8. dthomso1
    I found mine at Home Depot in their SS cabinet. They are M4. I used the 8mm length. The only downside is that they are slot head screws which in my view are not the best looking. Cheers
  9. dthomso1
    Hi Stan, Go here to download the service manual. Cheers http://labs.trunkful.com/vrmanuals/index.cfm
  10. dthomso1
    I use Yamalube all the time - there is no reason why it should be responsible for your clutch slipping.
  11. dthomso1
    I had the same problem - don't give up as it will eventually sort itself out! What you might want to try, if you have one of your old brake lines left over is to remove the banjo bolt at the master, push the brake line to one side and re-attach the old brake line (make sure it is crud-free inside). Pump the brake, returning the fluid into the master through the old line. This will eliminate any air bubble at the top end of the master. Put your new line back on and continue to bleed the caliper and damper. The other thing I discovered was that the dive dampers are a bugger for hiding air bubbles. With the help of a Mity Vac and a lot of patient pumping, you will eventually eliminate them. It took me at least a dozen episodes of bleeding the system before I was confident that I removed all the air. Good luck!
  12. dthomso1
    One of my projects this winter was to do a complete rebuild of the brakes - new rotors, rebuilt master cylinders, ss lines, rebuilt calipers (thanks Skydoc!). I know the brake bleeding is a pain but I have managed to get the rear/front left air-free after at least a dozen bleeds! I now have good pedal pressure. The easy one, the front rt however, is driving me crazy - no matter what I do, I cannot get any lever pressure. I rebuilt the master cylinder and even disassembled it twice to make sure I installed the rubber cups with the large diameter going into the bore first. After many brake bleeds, there are no more bubbles but still the lever has zero resistance. I must be missing some thing obvious - any hints out there? Thanks!
  13. dthomso1
    Received mine last week! Thanks!
  14. dthomso1
    Hi All, any ideas on how to get rid of the discolouration on my valve covers (and some other engine pieces)? I have seen a suggestion that paint remover and steel wool be used, but that seems awfully aggressive on these soft aluminum parts. Any suggestions?
  15. dthomso1
    Hi Earl, I noticed in the service manual that it states that the calipers should not be split - why would that be? I was about to split them when I saw this and now I wonder what the deal is. Thanks for your help as usual! Doug
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