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for my 83 rear, plan on E3 and looking for MU90B16.(recommended from dunlop fitment guide) Dennis Kirk has a MU90HB16 listed here http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/search/search.jsp?searchString=mu90b16&store=&resultType=subCategories&x=13&y=7 Question, what is the H in MU90HB16?, For that matter would be interested to know what all the letter/number positions mean. Best I can tell from dunlop site info below is MU90=140/90 H=speed rating 130mph B=unk? 16=assume rim size? Without getting into tire type discussion, would this work on my scoot? REAR TIRESMetricAlphaInch110/90MP854.00 to 4.25120/90MR904.50 to 4.75130/90MT905.00 to 5.10140/90MU85/MU905.50 to 6.00150/80MV856.00 to 6.25150/90MV856.00 to 6.25 SPEED SYMBOL Speed SymbolMaximum SpeedJ62 MPHK68 MPHL75 MPHM81 MPHN87 MPHP93 MPHQ99 MPHR106 MPHS112 MPHT118 MPHU124 MPHH130 MPHV149 MPHW168 MPHY186 MPH

You are on track, even though you think your connections are tight, corrosion is a bugger. Take your battery connections apart, +&-, and clean both the terminal lugs and battery posts with a brillo pad. Same for the frame ground wire, and the main fuse terminal lugs. If you still have factory fuses (glass barrels) you may consider a fuse block upgrade. Member here, skydoc17, offers a good kit-look in classifieds.

Sounds like loose wire connections at the battery. Verify with volt meter on battery at the terminal lugs, then the battery posts. Could also be low battery voltage, enough battery to run clock, but key on and little bit of battery left dumps to lights, etc,,, and all dies. Also could be bad key switch Unlikely bad short in electrical system, as short bad enough to kill all circuits would blow main fuse

Have you checked for voltage and ground at the fuel pump connector, bike side? Lot of safety systems turn fuel pump off, including TCI you stated worked on, tip over switch, side stand system, could be simple as engine stop switch. Suggest use test light.

Truck Wreck DON’T SCROLL ALL THE WAY DOWN JUST YET Read all the captions on the first photo, then look at the second photo. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=53682&stc=1&d=1296326597 Look at the picture above and you can see where this driver broke through the guardrail, on the right side of the culvert, where the people are standing on the road, pointing. The pick-up was traveling about 75 mph from right to left when it crashed through the guardrail. It flipped end-over-end bounced off and across the culvert outlet in bottom center of picture, You can see it here in bottom left, it landed right side up on the left side of the culvert, ( see bottom left of picture for truck after roll over) facing the opposite direction from which the driver was traveling. The 22-year-old driver and his 18-year-old passenger were unhurt except for minor cuts and bruises. Just outside Flagstaff , AZ , on U.S. Hwy 100. Now look at the second picture below.. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=53683&stc=1&d=1296326597 If God isn’t done with you, God isn’t done with you…. THE END .....

this was in email at work

My father in law was quality control inspector/photograper on the shuttle program, and a few years prior I had private tour at the cape. It was a dream that after my military career the shuttle program would be my next job. I was assigned in Korea, (K16, Seoul air base, 55th Avn), and had alarm set to radio. Usually hit snooze couple of times, but this morning I heard the news, as in a dream, and shot straight up. Felt sick. Although NASA did not know me, I felt like an insider(with my dream), and it hurt real bad. Never forget the TV images.

Suggest practice screwing cap in without springs, to get idea of how it feels when starting properly, hard to tell when fighting preload, and easy to strip. BTW, I started with 1/2 spacer (1/2"), but finally put together with no spacer, and so far no air, and rides great. Somewhere I have a play by play(bunch of pics). found it http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49226

I like that!

kudos to making video no expert but sounds to me like 1 cylinder not firing or dropping spark

Little off topic, but just read in local paper that install of new, or repair of existing HVAC requires KENTUCKY STATE permit and inspection. Also only people that can get the permit are HVAC liscense holders. This is required in ALL KY counties including those that do not have or require building permits, or have a process for issuing permits, or have inspectors. BIG BROTHER watching out for us. No mention of what the permit and inspection fees are. just pulled the article off net and it had link with more info 1.) Law now requires permit for new HVAC units Author: ROBYN L. MINOR, The Daily News, rminor@bgdailynews.com/783-3249 Publish Date: January 10, 2011 Word Count: 446 Document ID: 134AD4F6B2EB1C48 Word is slowly spreading about a new state law that requires contractors to obtain a permit and an inspection for the installation of new heating and cooling units. The permit requirement and inspection covers the entire state, even in counties that don’t require building permits. “We’ve had all kinds of inquiries about the new permits – in fact, I had a call this morning from a builder,” said Ray Watt, Daily News (Bowling Green, KY) Law now requires permit for new HVAC units ROBYN L. MINOR, The Daily News, rminor@bgdailynews.com/783-3249 Published: January 10, 2011 Word is slowly spreading about a new state law that requires contractors to obtain a permit and an inspection for the installation of new heating and cooling units. The permit requirement and inspection covers the entire state, even in counties that don’t require building permits. “We’ve had all kinds of inquiries about the new permits – in fact, I had a call this morning from a builder,” said Ray Watt, Warren County building inspector. Contractors obtain the new permits from a state office. “I think this is a great idea and something that should have been done 20 years ago,” Watt said. “Heat and air problems are probably responsible for the biggest waste of energy we see. (Tennessee Valley Authority) tried to push for this several years ago, but could never get the inspections enforced. “I’d say 90 percent of the heat and cooling pumps installed around here are done so improperly. This is going to be great if the state does what it says it will.” Watt said he has a meeting Tuesday with state officials to learn more about the new law. Permits for a single- or two-family dwelling are $75, with $50 for an additional system. Multifamily units are $75 plus $25 for each additional unit. Commercial permits will be based on the overall cost of the project. Roger Banks, field manager for the state’s heating and cooling division, said there have been several applications made statewide. But the state’s permitting software is not fully functional yet, so an exact number isn’t available. Banks said the HVAC master contractor, who already is required to be licensed, is responsible for applying for the permit and obtaining an inspection. If a homeowner is installing the system, then he or she is responsible for the same. Inspections might not be required for replacement installations. In Bowling Green, contractors may apply at Department of Housing, Buildings and Construction at 1018 Center St. or in Glasgow at 100 B Reynolds Road. Applications can be found on the state’s website at http://www.dhbc.ky.gov/hvac/fap and then mailed to 101 Sea Hero Road, Suite 100, Frankfort, KY 40601. The HBC is in charge of policing the new law, which went into effect Jan. 1. Any contractor caught without a permit may be fined $100 for the first offense, $250 for the second and $500 for all others or potentially face an administrative hearing. Banks reminds contractors that it’s a misdemeanor to perform HVAC work without a license. It could mean a $500 fine and jail time. — To check if a contractor is licensed, go to https://hbc.ky.gov/licensing/electrical/license_lookup.asp To reach inspectors for the Bowling Green area, call Ernest Bates at 270-499-2927 or Timothy England at 270-404-3583. The HVAC Division in Frankfort can be reached at 502-573-0395. Copyright 2011 News Publishing LLC (Bowling Green, KY)

Have you replaced your turn lights with low current lighting (LED)? OE Flashers require high current to operate(all 4 stock bulbs)

Brushes on 4 brush are 90 deg opposed to each other, seems to me brushes on my 2 brush are a little less than 90 deg from each other-could be wrong, Gary can check, but if true, swapping brush holders would require corresponding swap of armature for proper windings to energize.

I split a length on rubber hose and formed the 'grommet' in the front metal bracket.

If it was a mk1 I would suspect the rubber coolant (freeze) plug behind the cylinder side cover:2cents:

I have both cannon AE1P and EOSxti with interchangable cannon and tameka lenses.

Not sure about the RSV, but on the 83 there is a large gauge wire that runs from battery neg post to the engine casing(provides high current ground for starter and spark plugs, and engine is typically isolated from frame ground due to rubber engine mounts) There is also a smaller gauge wire from battery neg post, (some times in the same terminal lug as the large wire) thru a 1 wire connector, then into bike wiring harness, eventually getting to the frame ground points. Would recommend good inspection/ cleaning/ testing of this 1 wire connector. Also check for corrosion on frame side of ground connections same as V7Goose suggested to check on battery side. If the small wire is in the same terminal lug as the large wire, there could be problems in this crimp splice such as broken copper strands/ corrosion... Also to verify ground problem, suggest take auto jumper cables, and attach black to battery neg post and other black to unpainted point on frame. This would bypass any ground to frame problems and everything should work, and prove the ground problem.

Interesting numbers here. Something on the bike did turn on during test #2 when key was turned to ACC causing .3v drop. Then what happened in step 4.2-4.3, only removed a fuse? With fuse removal voltage drop (if caused buy circuit fuse removed from) should have decreased (higher voltage reading) or had no effect on system voltage if circuit was not actively causing voltage drop. Also as these drops were consistantly from high to low, it is possible the battery is draining, as would be expected with systems energized, but should not drain if in fact all systems are dead, unless internal short in battery. Wondering what repeat of step 1 would indicate. Still thinking a loose or corroded contact somewhere, likely ground. Suggest do some of of V7Goose's tests both with voltmeter, but also use 12v test light. The test light will ensure a circuit is not just reading high impedance voltage, but can also pull a load (lighting the light).

I agree with every thing V7Goose says here, with one caviet. A meter requires a good contact on both the + and - side to get a reliable reading, and when troubleshooting, it makes sense and is recommended to eliminate one side (50%)of this issue by attaching the ground side of the meter directly to the battery neg post. Then readings, or lack of readings can be trusted to be + side problems. The flip side of this issue, is you could complete all tests quoted here, and still have the same problem- no electric. This is because the ground side of a circuit is required just as much as the positive side for the circuit to work. During your testing I recommend after you get a good reading per V7Goose's procedure, at say the main fuse, you record that exact reading, then move meter neg to the motor case. The reading should be the same as above, if lower or not at all, you have a loose or corroded ground wire from the battery to the motor case. Also repeat the same to the bike frame. I also noticed is your list of work you completed, you did not mention checking engine and frame grounds.

Didn't say if you replaced plug caps when you replaced wires. I had corroded internal resistors, and was only able to clean up and get working 1 of 3 bad ones, I ended up replacing all 4 plug caps for about $2 each. Just a thought.

First need to determine if you have electrical load/overload problem vs. charging problem. Suggest first get digital multimeter that will read amps, up to 20 amps prefered but 10 amps may work. Then with key off, disconnect + cable from battery and place meter set up for max amps scale (and meter leads in proper amps ports) between disconnected + cable(-meter lead), and + terminal of battery(+meter lead). Scale down meter until you have a reading (may have to move + meter lead to different meter port for lower readings, but always start at max scale!!!). A proper reading with key off should be probably about 100mA(clock and radio memory). A reading very much above this and start pulling fuses until reading drops to isolate to overloaded circuit. Then do same check again with key on and every thing else off. I think your head and tail lights are on now and reading probably around 5 amps. Come back with answer and maybe someone can compare to another simular model. The last amp check is a little more dangerious and should only be for last resort when every other check/test is inconclusive. That is to start and run bike with meter set up as above. The problem is the starter probably draws more than 50A and will blow your meter. To get past this leave meter hooked up as before, on highest scale, but also apply a heavy auto jumper cable from the disconnected + wire and the + battery terminal. Start the bike, then remove the jumper cable to read the meter as before. If the battery is charging (as it should be after a start) meter should have a + reading. If battery is discharging(keeping bike running) meter will have a - reading. The actual numbers will mean little unless then are very excessive. FWIW.. I had a problem on my xj750 that kicked my butt, but it turns out the the ohm difference between a good and bad stator can be very small. I had .1 ohm on 1 winding and book called for .4ohm. Even though I had 13+- volts charging, the shorted winding was draining my system and it was the stator as the problem. Before I had figured it out I had gotten so worried I permemently installed an amp meter and could keep the rpms up to keep the charge up. After I replaced stator, I had no more problems. Whatever you find come back and let us know, and we can help narrow it down more if necessary. Brian

Cool info, maybe should be added to Venture History tab.

2ea white/black are for low brake fluid in master, both front and rear master are wired in series, and if you do not have warning light, likely the bike side wires are connected together and tucked away. The green/yellow and brown are for the front brake light circuit. These are wired in parallel with the rear brake switch, and likely the bike side wires are seperated and tucked away. The brown has power, so don't let it short to ground.

Although I agree with consensus of a bad hub, could also be a dragging brake. (Also dragging brake can create the heat to burn out the grease in the hub). Easy to test, just drive about 10 miles and feel the center of the hubs, should at most be just barley warm. If too hot to touch-its the brake, collapsed line or defective caliper.