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bkuhr

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Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
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  4. bkuhr
    Remove tensioner spring to prevent tensioner from expanding further when chains are loose, with caps off can lift up 1 side of cam at a time just enough to get shims out/in But come to think about it, you may be right Dingy:D The last time, of 3 times I set shims, I only needed to get one out/in, and with caps off I could pry cam up enough as above 2 previous times I removed whole tensioner body, but had to make sure tensioner was fully reset and installed before rotating crank taking up most if not all chain slack or chain would jump the cam, and I would have to start over again:doh: Good Catch:thumbsup2: Also noted not all used, and maybe new shims are the same. Using shims I had, I needed 1 I didn't have, don't remember exactly, think I needed 268 or 270 and only had 265's that was close. Started mic'ing 265's and found 264,265,267. Used 267. Would have prefered all gaps near high limit, but settled for some at low limit Brian
  5. bkuhr
    just went thru my valves, had heads machined due to low compression, also had bent exhaust valve, and sticking lifter. machine shop 'touched' lifter bore with brake hone, and free'd up sticking lifter. replaced bent valve(possible bent when sticking lifter kept valve down until contacted by piston) for shim adjustment found it easist to loosen cam caps, and raise cam to get shims out *first-remove cam chain tensioner bolt and spring, but i left tensioner in place *match mark all cams where they are with end cam cap centerline *when finished make sure all chain slack is toward tensioner, and put tensioner spring/bolt back in *do not turn crank when tensioner out, or chain will jump cam, and you will have to go thru complete cam setup from start in this way you can get all shims out, and mix/match as necessary as long as crank did not turn, and match marks are the same when done should, be ok how it did it anyway:2cents: cam caps go in specific locations, they should be labled, but make sure good luck brian
  6. bkuhr
    83 xvz12 idle ~1100 #1 balanced at about 4-6 in mercury #3 balanced at about 18-20 in mercury idle screw maxed out up When trying to bring #3/4 down to match #2, can't keep it running, drops idle Needs #1/2 brought up with idle screw, but already max up-screw limit Carbs torn apart and cleaned, new gaskets,orings- but missed main fuel needles at the time, recently found it after removing pressed in needle caps, screws were factory? set under caps a mix from 1/2 to 2-1/2 from bottom, reset all a 2 turns #2 cylinder has less compression than other 3, 150 psi vs 180 psi also carb#3 leaking small drip from top overfill drain Suspect I need to pull carbs again due to #3 fuel leak, and re-adjust float, and clean out needle ports I missed, but not sure that this will let me lower idle screw, while raising #2 vacum? Open up #2 needle for more fuel? Disreguard #2 and match other 3 due to lower compression on #2?? Suggestions???
  7. bkuhr
    10 sec or 150 meters (490 feet) which ever is longest, per 83 manual
  8. bkuhr
    stripped to frame, frame solid, second gear done do to 3rd gear, guy have been riding with no rear brake master installed=only left front brake, and admitting slamming into gears to down shift, and had knocked pin out of third. rear master placed, brakes done, massive electrical problems fixed, except unknown status of generator, clutch discks replaced, factory oil control mod on stator done, now heads done, carbs rebuilt, needs tires soon,etc, starter rebuilt, and dingy mod-but little different my new money pit brian
  9. bkuhr
    only 46,000 miles but very poorly kept up by previous owners, have xj750 but wanted bigger 'touring' bike for years, got this 83 cheap, plan on fixing to near orginal and keeping. right now its in so many pieces i hope i remember how to put it back together
  10. bkuhr
    heads back from machine shop, sure are pretty heads installed, and valve shim done, all gaps in range dingy, will send when i get new valve from dealer tomorrow? redid leakdown with heads installed, same as leakdown directly on cylinders.=no leak in heads or head gaskets new compression test, 1,3,4=180psi, 2=150psi what do we think, wish all 4 matched, but 150psi is still respectable, rather not tear down again for ring job, but rather not put back in bike if this will cause big problem. this is the cylinder that orginally was not running, and had bent valve, maybe rings will wear in with real compression-wishfull thinking?, no visable damage or scratches on cylinder walls. any thoughts? brian
  11. bkuhr
    Dingy $ sent Thanks Brian
  12. bkuhr
    dingy, thanks pm sent are these springs really necessary, shop already has 1 head back together, and other waiting on the new valve
  13. bkuhr
    talked to machine shop, 1 bent exhaust valve. anyone know where to get one by monday? pn# 26h-12121-00-00 replaced by 26h-12121-11-00 brian
  14. bkuhr
    ok, been a while, been busy here's update. did leakdown, cyl #2 and #3 failed, bad shim gap got shims from dingy, and bought some heads currently at machine shop for valve job, they also setting shims if they end up regrinding valves, probably shims I got will be wrong Dingy-you get all shims I can get back from shop, hopefully they will help someone else made leakdown adapter from 1/4 steel plate-rubber gasket,bolted directly on top of cylinder tested 2 cylinders so far, #1 and #3 -applied 30psi, maintained 26 psi in cyl#1 with rest heard blowing into case (past rings) consider cyl 1 ok as previously has 130psi compression check -applied 30 psi, maintained 24 psi in cyl #3 with rest blowing past rings, previous 50 psi compression test what do we think, is cylinder #3 rings servicable, or do we need to start thinking about splitting the case for ring job, or getting another motor still to test cyl #2 and #4 all comments appreaciated Brian
  15. bkuhr
    not sure about yours, but my '83 vac hose goes onto port on carb, not on sync port on boot. this my be our vac problem-open port on carb, and timing on wrong port on boot.
  16. bkuhr
    dingy, great spreadsheet, like seeing final expected value, and only changed a couple of my calculated needed shims (due to common size rounding error from manual) next question, what size are these shims, 28mm or 29mm for the 83 xvz-1200 brian seems after more research these are 25mm
  17. bkuhr
    83 xvz-1200 replaced head gaskets due to low compression #2 & #3 q1, reinstalling cams, rear head #1 tdc#1 with small holes on edge of cam rail up, lines with cam cap mark. #1 I&E lobes up and face toward each other at about 45deg. front head #2 tdc#2 with large holes on edge of cam rail up, lines with cam cap mark. #2 I&E lobes up and face away from each other at about 45deg. does not appear both setups are correct. should the large holes be the ones in the end of the cam on front head? q2, still low compression #2, checked valve shim gap, believe problem, valves to tight in #2, including all measurments compression #1=120, #2=90, #3=90, #4=120 all measurments L-R, T-B looking at each exhaust side rear head #1 #1 #3 current shim I 270 275 278 272 gap mm I .102 .102 .102 .152 rounded shim I 270 275 280 270 sugg new shim I 265 270 275 ok current shim E 278 272 272 272 gap mm E .127 .151 .051 .152 rounded shim E 280 270 270 270 sugg new shim E 275 265 255 265 front head #2 & #4 #4 #2 current shim I 275 275 270 270 gap mm I .127 .102 .025 .102 rounded shim I 275 275 270 270 sugg new shim I ok 270 260 265 current shim E 268 268 270 270 gap mm E .178 .152 .127 .127 rounded shim E 270 270 270 270 sugg new shim E ok 265 265 265 I believe red shims are to tight and opening to soon, blowing some of the compression. Is it agreed? Have I figured suggested new shims correctly? Where can I get new shims and shim adjusting tool, think I figured out shim tool locks around cam like an open end wrench, swinging around to edge of lifters, pushing lifters down, allowing shims to be pried out. Is this correct? I may make a tool. Thanks for any and all info. Brian
  18. bkuhr
    had same problem, dremel tool slot into screw(with worn-small diameter cutter) and remove with flat tip. carefull not to grind into cover itself. i replaced my screws with allen wrench head-these are metric thread-english thread will strip master
  19. bkuhr
    feel better knowing 3 piece is normal, guess need to be ordering some parts, probably should replace gaskets on rear head at same time, broke water joint #17 between cylinders, it rotated, but would not slide out=any tricks for removal on the rear head
  20. bkuhr
    83 VR front head off due to low compression cyl#2 head gasket in 3 pieces (3 layers of thin steel), is this correct-are these 3 layers supposed to be pressed together into 1 thick gasket, or has a previous owner stacked multiple gaskets for some reason. do have blowby signs on the gaskets, if 3 layers stacked, reason may have been to take up valve slack lost during head mill?? any way to measure correct mill height to verify if done if in fact head milled, then what...may be looking for new head:doh: any thoughts appreaciated brian
  21. bkuhr
    dont forget meter valve under steering head for left front. mine was plugged with rust, required complete removal-was a pain- to get it blown out.
  22. bkuhr
    I have a suspicion it is a vacuum leak and may be related to the YICS system. Take those hoses off and plug them with a good heavyduty plug. The leak may be in the hoses or the box. i also have 750 seca with YICS. requires special tool i made to plug YICS ports for sync dont recall reading YICS needs to be plugged off during sync on VR, but only makes sense as YICS chamber causes cylinders to share vacum/fuel mix from other chambers, therby causing error vacum reading during sync, and if bad YICSchamber or hose, low readings with vacum leak talk about ringing bells, can't wait to get home this weekend and try this out brian
  23. bkuhr
    great suggestions all, just completed compression checks, 3&4=150psi 1=160psi 2=110psi-increased to 150 psi w oil in spark plug hole, worn rings one cylinder only? only 38,000 miles on odometer new question, can the forward juggs be removed on the bike, or should i just plan on pulling motor having to work out of town m-f, can only work on on weekends, looks like long winter project thanks for all the help additional info=when i first got bike noticed only ran on 1 cyl, only 1 pipe got even warm(dont remember which) possible cyl 2 rings carboned up and may spring back to cyl walls if cleaned? should i pour bunch of seafoan in #2 & let sit over the week? drained carb bowls of fuel through drain ports, then refilled bowls with 100% seafoam through fuel pump, plan to let sit over week can not find air idle mix screw advised to remove/adjust. all needles on in fuel block in fuel bowl
  24. bkuhr
    just finished clean and rebuild carbs 83 xvz12t, all new gaskets and orings, started rough but smoothed out when warm. during sync 1&2 come together good, 3&4 close but wont stabalize with each other. 3&4 much higher vacum than 1&2, and while trying to bring together, idle gets to low, and have maxed out idle adjust up to screw limit also notice that vacum sliders in bores 1&2 respone well, and vibrate with idle vacum. 4 barely vibrates at idle, but starts to open with throttle, 3 doesn't even start to open until even more throttle. rubbers diaphrams had no holes during cleaning any suggestions short of carb removal and teardown again history, got this bike 3 months ago in very rough shape-planned winter project. all kinds electrical problems-fixed, carbs and gas tank seriously coated in rust-tank cleaned,repaired and por15'd did i miss a vacum jet in carbs 3&4? which jet and can i spray carb cleaner stiil onbike? thanks for any input brian
  25. bkuhr
    looking for complete front lower fairing set, was completley removed from '83 xvz12 brian
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