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bkuhr

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Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    If I recall correctly, Rear head #1TDC @T1 intake and exhaust cam lobes point toward each other at about 60 deg from straight up. Front head #2TDC @T2 intake and exhaust cam lobes point away from each other at about 60 deg from straight up. If intake and exhaust cams swapped, suspect lobes would point opposite above
  2. bkuhr
    suspect no compression = valves not closing completely, check valve shim gap
  3. bkuhr
    http://hawkhelmets.com/p/Hawk-Helmets/Advanced-Hawk-Grey-Dual-Visor-Full-Face-Motorcycle-Helmet/54900.html just got one of these. dual visor excellent. very, very light. vents well. only fault-noisy in left side thru inner visor control.
  4. bkuhr
    Half way there. Either black wire on sending unit (ground wire) is bad or has a bad connection, or sending unit is bad. Clean the connection, check for good ground with ohm meter from black wire on sending unit to battery neg=~0ohms. While there with meter check ohms from G/W to Black on sending unit with wires unplugged from mc. Should be 30-300ohms. If >300 sending unit coil open. Saw link somewhere here on repair, but recommend replace.
  5. bkuhr
    http://www.motoverse.com/tools/vin/yamaha.asp type in vin#, get model number
  6. bkuhr
    Good tip, didn't think about this, thanks.
  7. bkuhr
    Ok pulled shock again, took pics this time. metal bushing will not press out of rubber isolator. should I keep pressing? Brian
  8. bkuhr
    now really confused? metal bushing in rubber isolator(#9) in bottom mounting eye appear to be molded together. I tried to press metal bushing out, and pressed until rubber isolator looked like it was going to tear-then quit. metal bushing ID just fits thru bolt brian
  9. bkuhr
    Simple test done today while riding, looked up and focused on inside of helmet where glasses would be. Too close, could not cleary focus. If little tv image, it would be very hard to see clearly
  10. bkuhr
    Fuel float should read 30 ohms or less when full, and 300 ohms or more when empty. Apply jumper wire from good ground or battery negative to green/white wire on float=(30 ohms or less-above), should indicate full fuel reading on CMS. Give the CMS gauge about 5sec/bar to move. Not sure sampling rate but it is slow If no reading on CMS with jumper wire, likley broken solder joint internal CMS, Before CMS removal try ground jumper wire trick above directly on back of CMS green/white wire If float fails ohms test, bad float If CMS good and float good but still no reading with everything hooked up normal, black ground wire on float doesn't have good ground-(or tank is really empty or floats leaks and sunk)
  11. bkuhr
    Would suggest before pulling dash to get cmu out, first back-stab pins on connector for high beam input, and high beam output. If no input have different problem. If have input, but no output, CMU problem. If have input and output likely wiring problem to the light. If looking at 83 diagram correctly, Hi input=Yellow/red and HI output= Yellow/green and the CMU connector
  12. bkuhr
    Thanks for link, no email came thru Found missing spacer, fell out of wheel (unobservered by me-radio too loud) and rolled into corner. Reassembled, looks correct now. Still no answer if I have problem with lower shock bushing http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47662 Brian
  13. bkuhr
    What is proper assembly of rear wheel on 83 xvz12? From right 1. axle bolt 2. washer 3. brake caliper bracket 4. ??missing spacer?? 5. RH oilseal and bearing 6. etc... I seem to have too much gap on right side, and brake caliper bracket is clear to move too far?? toward wheel, bumping brake rotor bolt heads
  14. bkuhr
    Looking at page 5-40 service manual, but can't get it to copy here. When the bolt that goes thru ARM-1, Relay Arm, and Lower fitting or Rear Shock is tightened down, the shock locks up to ARM-1(does not pivot freely). Can see what is happening, bushings 'G' press into bushing of lower shock and 'lock up' Bushing of lower shock appears to be molded into the rubber isolator of lower shock. It takes siginficant force to rotate shock around pivot of ARM-1, this can't be correct, can it? Can't figure any way to 1. Keep pressure of bushings 'G' off bushing of lower shock so shock bushing can rotate around bolt shank.(dont think this would be correct for shock to work directly on the bolt) or 2. Allow shock to rotate around lower shock bushing/rubber isolater Removed entire shock/link system due to this issue, installed zerk fittings and lubed. All other pivot points work great. Ideas/ Suggestions? Brian
  15. bkuhr
    Had Ford Ranger front flexable brake line rubber had deteriorated and swelled. Allowed pressure from master to caliper, but caliper would not fully release pressure back toward master keeping brakes partially applied. Looked at brake line. It had swelled completely closed. Looked like big O-ring with very small center hole. Got me thinking. If your O-ring between Reservior and master was plugged due to? (pinch, swell, dirt, master pistons doesn,t fully retract...) would cause simular problem. You can force fliud thru restriction with Mity-vac, but it will not gravity feed into master chamber. If you can confirm problem is with master, I suspect 1 of 3 things 1. trapped air 2. restriction as above 3. fluid blowby around master piston Just my thoughts Brian
  16. bkuhr
    Not closed loops, brake and clutch master reservior both vent thru lid, same on cage. Every hydraulic system I can think of vents at reservior. On bike usually tiny slit at joint res cap and body. Pressure of h20 steam blows by bellows/gasket to the slit Clutch would reach temp even faster, because any water in system would not compress, and would not have 'full' clutch release. 'slipping' clutch plates would generate heat even faster than brakes, traveling along clutch links back to slave. Good question, hope my answers are correct Brian
  17. bkuhr
    My Guess, as hydraulics are used they heat up and boil water out. If left unused for extended periods of time, then corrosion damage is done.
  18. bkuhr
    Like Dingy said ODO mechanical, Tach and CMS both powered from15A signal fuse. Would start there
  19. bkuhr
    Just my inexperienced guess, but I would suspect #4 valve gap too tight, and as valves expand with heat, #4 does not close completely for entire required cycle(compression or power).
  20. bkuhr
    After much discussion, and studying over and over again of my setup, I finally realized that the L-shape link that the #3 sync screw pushes against was bent/angled. Upon straightening, long link fit at about 1/2 depth of the #3 sync screw. Thank you all for your assistance, would not have figured it out without your help. Now I just have to put the rest of this beast back together Again Thanx Brian :big-grin-emoticon:
  21. bkuhr
    Can I take some specific pics to determine if linkage is correct? Yes, I seperated carbs, but they are back together the way they were when I got this bike. did not pull butterfly shafts/cams.
  22. bkuhr
    Heres pics of this pain in the _ _ _ _ Anyone see the problem 2 pics left carbs link too long and ruler across throat, lots of clearance 1 pics right carbs clearance-close 2 pics right carbs sync screw, to long, and adjusted for link to fit 1 pic left link fits with with right sync screw all the way in all pics with butterflies properly closed can cams be rotated on butterfly shafts?
  23. bkuhr
    ?? Unless something is assembled very wrong, the only things thay are below the level of the bottom throats when on a flat plate are the bottom mount rails with drain tubes and idle screw. No linkage is this low, unless something is wrong Someone have pics handy of proper linkage setup?
  24. bkuhr
    Ok, reset all brackets while clamping, and wedged carbs as far apart as possible L-R. Gained a little on the link, but link still too long by width of wall of bushing, .10in. Can take up this difference with #3 sync screw, but it takes all of it screwed all the way in with counter spring completely compressed. (this would be alright only if I need to loosen #3 sync screw during sync test) Any more ideas? Could try to Z-bend link a little bit?
  25. bkuhr
    sensor is maganitc reed swich on the inside of the black plastic piece. My black plastic was held in with glue, and one side popped up, making reed switch to far from magnet in head to activate. I reglued mine down with hot glue gun.
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