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bkuhr

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Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48542 Curtis, check out my thread. I have parts on order to rebuild my forks. Also Freebird provided links to procedures.
  2. bkuhr
    not to big, 240, but sure like eating
  3. bkuhr
    YEP
  4. bkuhr
    Not sure what kind of bike you have XVZ12/13 has crush washer bottom bolt left transmission(middle gear) cover. May be all you need.
  5. bkuhr
    Rocket, what item # are these bushings, nothing in my diagram is called a bushing or has part#Yamaha #3JJ-23171-00-00 Part of the problem I am having understanding other fork posts
  6. bkuhr
    no CLASS, 83 xvz12tk so #4,5,6,25,26 + progressive springs covers everything I need?
  7. bkuhr
    Not sure what I need to be replacing to correct my problems, see first post. Skydoc17 sending me progressive springs, Thanks skydoc and good luck with surgery Read some posts and looks like I need to replace dust seal and oil seal, then it gets confusing. metal slide/bushing? wavy washer/spring valve? What about the air leak, do I likely need o-rings replaced at airjoint. Been thinking, Ya, I know it dangerous, air up again and soap test before I disassemble pic attached of parts. full item description at http://www.yamahapartsdepot.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=198921&category=motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=1983&fveh=4522 Looking for someone to hold my hand and tell me which #s I need to order Buckeye quoted me $180 fork kit, but seems high as I added about $110 from parts depot items 4,5,6,25,26. am I missing something?
  8. bkuhr
    http://www.motoverse.com/tools/vin/yamaha.asp But is it rear wheel drive? lol
  9. bkuhr
    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVPtIi6sVYg&feature=related]YouTube- Auto Thermostat[/ame] all you wanted to know about thermostat
  10. bkuhr
    Freebird thanks for links, Alright, talked me into it. :Avatars_Gee_George:Progressives I recon my best bet is complete rebuild -complete fork seal and bushing kit -progressive kit -fork brace? Now, where do I get parts?
  11. bkuhr
    83 VR After all engine and clutch trouble, took on short test ride today. First time on anything so big. Sure can feel the horses:big-grin-emoticon: Still a little engine tuning to do, running pretty good, minor backfire in #3 (I know-seafoam)(recheck sync) Tach indicates ~1400, digital tach indicated 940 (if set correctly??), sounds like about 900, any slower would not idle. Is tach adustable? Biggest problem: Forks bottom out on little bumps. Came back checked air=zero, nada,zip. Pumped in about 2psi at a time and checked. At about 15psi forks shot up-spraying oil out of right fork seal. Pumped up to 18psi. 30 minutes later pressure = zero again. Forks still up, but pressed on frame and they fell back down. I know nothing about MC forks, never messed with them. Help! Suspect I am looking at complete fork rebuild. Where do I start. Thanks for all the help so far, Dingy, Rocket, Squeeze, MiCarl and many others Brian
  12. bkuhr
    Looks like Rocket hit it right on Splined washer was under lock nut, and realized something wrong when loosening bolt,and inner hub and outer hub locked together until nut broke loose, then inner hub started rotating including pics for others
  13. bkuhr
    Quote: Originally Posted by bkuhr used this tool on auto exhaust, designed to re-round pipes where u-bolts compressed back to original pipe diameter. could not get it to expand pipe to larger diameter, broke tool. :-( So you had a pipe that you tightened with a clamp, and used this tool to expand the "crimped" place? Then it broke? bought this tool to expand a pipe to fit outside another, would not do it, it broke, designed only to return crimps back to orginal.
  14. bkuhr
    Rocket, thanks for reply are you talking about item #2 in pic will check tomorrow
  15. bkuhr
    I have 82 xj750 inline4 with YICS that does require block off tool, I made one from directions found on net. Also have 83 xvz12 venture with YICS, It is not the same setup. YICS here has 4 individual chambers hooked to ports on intake boots below carbs. designed to draw in extra air/fuel charge and store in chamber for next cycle. supposed to help milage. These 4 chambers should be isolated from each other, but formed from 2 pieces of plastic hydrstic glued together, and many have had leaks between chambers,or to atmosphere. many here say complete removal of YICS chambers, and plug ports on carb boots with sturdy cap plugs suggest at next sync attempt 1. pull any YICS hose and plug port, if vacum in that chamber increases :banana:you know problem, plug the rest. 2. pull aircleaner and look into carb bodies, push sliders over and look at throttle plates to verify they completely close, touch in both side of bore, if not adjust sync screws until they do. some here recommend completly back off sync screws, but found completely closed is not fully backed off, link springs start opening again as screws back off. If cant completely close, possible bend linkage-don't ask how I know this!
  16. bkuhr
    OK, pulled clutch cover and suprise!! Looks like clutch is working. Maybe my problem is above the shoulders?? Started with shifter reversed, and when kicked down to 1st, actually went to 5th and stalled. Then started checking clutch release in actual 1st and trying to turn rear wheel with hand. Is there to much drag normally to turn wheel with hand? Measured clutch release: pic1 clutch handle tied down, pressure plate outboard, mic reset to zero pic 2 clutch handle released to normal, pressure plate inboard, mic read .071in Is this about proper amount of release, or do I still have problem? Should I just put all back together and try again, then put all above shoulder in the sand?
  17. bkuhr
    used this tool on auto exhaust, designed to re-round pipes where u-bolts compressed back to original pipe diameter. could not get it to expand pipe to larger diameter, broke tool.
  18. bkuhr
    is YICS still installed?
  19. bkuhr
    I really don't remember, was way back in December did clutch. Guess I'm going to take apart again. What else should I be looking for while I'm there.
  20. bkuhr
    Only had clutch side rod and ball out. Wasn't paying much attention, but I think end of rod on slave side was rounded.
  21. bkuhr
    83 VR I have never rode this, got it non-running. Was told clutch was bad so replaced friction plates first thing, during assembly, could see plates spread out during clutch lever pull. Then had major engine problems, and had to remove engine. Now engine back in, runs-sounds soo good, feeling good. Put just enough back together to put seat on and go for test ride. Down off stand, idling, brake on, clutch in, kick down to 1st,clutch out....stall:crying: Then I couldn't put it back in neutral:mad:. Up/down/up/down/all the way up-4 down, no neutral. Finally saw neutral light come on nearly all the way up. HA. shifter backwards, easy fix:happy65:. No one ever done that, right? Now current problem, still no clutch release. bleed/beed/bleed/././. bleed with mity vac, pulled clutch slave, found torn dust seal-not likely problem but rebuilt slave, bleed/bleed/./..., bleed master banjo, bleed master with finger and hose off, tried handle tieback all last night, bleed/bleed/bleed. Feels like good pressure with finger on master-sprays around finger, but down at slave when cracking bleeder fluid comes out in stream but does not spray as in normal bleeding. any suggestions?
  22. bkuhr
    had simular problem on 83 vr. took starter switch apart, contacts can be cleaned and fix my problem
  23. bkuhr
    http://www.wbko.com/home/headlines/7028902.html high on drugs, cross centerline and head-on group of 4 scoots, kills 2 mains 1 and 1 lucked out gets off with slap on wrist go figure
  24. bkuhr
    Thay was a lot of work, must feel good to see your end result.
  25. bkuhr
    Apply about 60 psi from air compressor to sparkplug hole (I use hose from compression tester and leakdown gages set) with piston at TDC. #1=T1, #3= I'd have to get the book out for degree's rotation from #1. Hold crank with wrench to keep air from pushing piston down Listen for where air blows out carbs= intake not closed mufflers=exhaust not closed case breather=piston ring blowby. I have about 20psi ring blowby and was good around head=head gasket/heads not tight,etc
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