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bkuhr

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Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    I never realized this about the screen, but might be possible to open drain screw and blow air up thru drain and out intake elbow with fuel hose off:confused07:. With drain open, float should be down opening needle port. Put paper towel around fuel inlet to catch anything that comes out. Just a thought.
  2. bkuhr
    I have read before about vin punch marks for dealer/factory mods, don't remember where. One was for stator oil control/overheating/burning out mod. I have no marks near vin on motor, but I do have 3 marks on lower right bar vin label on my 83strd1200. one on first character "J", one on last zero in first group (circular punch mark) and one between last digits 1&2. Not sure what, if anything, these marks really mean, but would be intersting if others have simular marks.
  3. bkuhr
    I would guess additives in gas-ethenol
  4. bkuhr

    Vin Search

    bkuhr replied to Midicat's topic in Watering Hole

    I'll bet its rear wheel drive:whistling:
  5. bkuhr
    The screw on the left screws into a slot of the plastic valve, and is what keeps valve from pulling straight out (answer to your removal question). Hopefully screw not broke off leaving shaft in the body. Will be real tough to get valve out then. Hole in the top is the stop point for spring loaded ball bearing in the plastic valve. If you do pull valve, have new o-ring ready, will likely need replaced.
  6. bkuhr
    Shot in the dark here. State you see raw gas running down boot, I assume this means visable on outside of boot. If this is the case, then maybe leaking fuel line above carb spilling gas down sides of carb, and small airleak below carb, allowing leaking gas to be sucked into manifold. Hey, I started this with 'Shot in the dark here'
  7. bkuhr
    Grisolm1, not to get off topic, but when I thought my bar was too long, I found my sync screw tabs bent. Then bar fit fine. Below is from post I had a while ago. After much discussion, and studying over and over again of my setup, I finally realized that the L-shape link that the #3 sync screw pushes against was bent/angled. Upon straightening, long link fit at about 1/2 depth of the #3 sync screw. Thank you all for your assistance, would not have figured it out without your help. Now I just have to put the rest of this beast back together Again Thanx Brian :big-grin-emoticon: Attached Thumbnails
  8. bkuhr
    Brush faces need nearly 100% contact with commutators. Suspect 1 of your brushes barely making contact with 1 off center commutator and not completing a circuit thru the windings. see my post #6 from here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51395&highlight=brush Also possible assembled incorrectly. Does shaft turn by hand? Does it spark as if short circuit? Test with ohm meter from center post to case, not sure exactly but I think less than 3 ohms is about correct. ~ or open means something not connected or brush problem above. Maybe brush springs not pushing on back of brushes...... Yes, vinal tape will melt. Trying to think of something common you can use as a substitute. I think brush on poly-vinal (like dippimg tool handles) will also melt. Same with vinal tubing. Rubber tubing will dry out and crack. Maybe some kind of fiberglass cloth?(wrap it around and tie it with lengths of fiber). Probably cant find any kind of asbestis cloth.
  9. bkuhr
    Looks like 3 atc fuses tucked back in there replacing glass fuses, although not very good job, and likely to cause intermittant open problems, not hard wired, and safer than if it was. Most definatly do skydoc17's fuse mod, with soldered splices, not crimps. I am more concerned about what looks like self resetting circuit breaker in front of photo. looks like spliced to red/white and brown, which is ignition circuit, and likely installed circuit breaker due to continous blowing of fuses. If your TCI is not already toast, it likely won't take much more. I would replace circuit breaker ASAP with fuse, as fuses blow faster than breakers, and don't keep trying to reset with fault on the line. Probably going to have to track down what blows fuses in ign ckt. Prime candate to ign coil breaking down as it heats Corrosion on battery seems to reflect may be near end of life, get cleaned up real good and have autoparts/battery store do load test. While you have the battery out, get your TCI out and relocate to top of airbox, and plan on doing diode replacement internal TCI, or maybe consider IGNTECH option. Sorry for all the bad news, but better to get it fixed at the home40 rather than on the road somewhere. I have a feeling you are going to learn a lot about your electrical system:o. Great bike, don't give up on it. Find wiring diagram for your bike in tech libary, download and print for your reference.
  10. bkuhr
    Deal done with painterman67. Thanks all, this site is great.
  11. bkuhr
    As for testing needle I would first have you notice that there is a little spring loaded plunger in base of needle. 1.Make sure plunger workes freely 2. Place piece of tubing on fuel inlet port such as you can blow light air pressure into tubing 3. Place needle in port, and while blowing you should feel air cutoff as you press on bottom of plunger against spring loaded base. Should stop airflow just as plungers just starts to compress. 4. If this all works, place float on pin, and repeat air pressure test. Float should be apx level (square in fuel bowl) when airflow stops, and have more room to move up against spring loaded plunger As for testing float, pull float pivot pin out of carb, place on float as normal and hold between fingers as you lower float into jar of fuel. With pin apx 1/2 in above fuel, float should be level, with fuel level about 1/2 way up float. If one end or the other sinks, float is bad If all ok, assemble 1 carb at a time, with needle and float. Place carb on LEVEL fuel safe table, place CLEAR (FISH TANK AIR LINE TYPE) tubing on carb drain port at bottom of carb. Secure clear tubing up along diapram cover side of carb. Rig a little bit of gravity fed fuel into fuel line at fuel inlet, and let in enough fuel to fill float bowl. While keeping fuel applied to inlet, Open fuel drain screw at bottom. this will allow fuel to fill the clear tubing to the level of fuel in the float bowl. mark this level on your diaphram covers. Pic of my level marked with pinstrip tape. Should be about level of choke shaft. If very far off will need to take carb back apart and adjust tab on the float. After all 4 carbs float levels ok, assemble the rack of 4 and apply gravity fuel to main fuel inlet of all 4 and check float levels again. If all ok now, place carb into bike, hooking up just fuel line from fuel pump. Level bike and check float levels again. Here i preinstalled my black rubber drain hoses and used a little piece of brass tube to connect rubber drain hose to the clear tubing. Turn on fuel pump and check float levels 1 last time. Sure others will chime in
  12. bkuhr
    Thanks Dano, process working deal with painterman67.
  13. bkuhr
    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52265 Look in my other backfire post
  14. bkuhr
    26H-13586-00-00 JOINT, carburetor 1 Joint under carb on 1st gen 83 1200 cyl 1 and 3 Looks like not available at most part houses anyone have one laying around?
  15. bkuhr
    Maybe instead of the scrolling LED sign, a 20" LCD TV flips up from trunk and shows the, ah, missing britches.
  16. bkuhr
    Got new jets today, pulled carbs again, sigh, and look what I found. On last install I tore up #1 boot. Now I need to order more parts. FYI, I mic'd .020 wire I used to ream out jets, it mic'd at .017" I stuck in piece of copper wire strand mic'd at .012" it went in easily So jet is between .013" and .016". not much of a difference, and likely not cause of my backfire. More likely is my FUBAR to the #1 boot.
  17. bkuhr
    Ok Mike, ya got me. I was sitting in the house on the puter and thought rear handgrip bar was continous all the way down, guess I could have said rear crash bar. More descriptive would have been rear foot pegs. Whats so bad is even after you slammed me, I still did not get it. So guess it didn't count:thumbsup2: Now here are pics of the bar in question, as well as petcock location under side cover, some covers do not have cutout area, and view of petcock in ON position, and operating range painted in blue. I painted mine in blue, because I broke mine trying to turn it wrong, and wanted to remind myself to how it worked. Just pointing it out to CHOP, to try to help him avoid causing more problems than he has... Now you going to give me a break? Brian PS, Not sure where Monkey from, first thing poppped up on Google, or is it goggle
  18. bkuhr
    Mike, this is for you http://www.google.com/images?q=tbn:PVvwFJPnj0LQ6M::rachelheldevans.com/assets/images/monkey_on_bicycle_vintage(1).jpg&h=86&w=134&usg=___CBKSI1VqnLLcxvHN7jLKlEhRWY= Actually, I don't get it??? :icon_smile_question"Just funnin' ya buddy but if you don't have some really low clip-ons.........:stickpoke:" Try to get some real pic this afternoon.
  19. bkuhr
    Does fuel pump 'click' when key is on and fuel hose disconnected from carbs. It should pump (click) continously until it fills (primes) the carbs, then shut off. If no clicking, likely electrical problem such as blown fuse, or safety systems cutting off fuel pump relay, or defective fuel pump. Check for 12v and ground at 2 wire fuel pump connector low left side of frame. If it is clicking, but not pumping fuel, likely fuel petcock is closed/clogged, fuel filter is clogged, or pump is defective. If not familar with location, petcock can be hard to find. Right side low near rear handgrip, under bottom edge of side panel. Plastic square with flat slot(very fragil-make sure to turn only in direction of little cam slot with wrench, dont use screwdriver in slot or you will most likely break the plastic valve).
  20. bkuhr
    Yep, it was #15, guess I'll order 2. Thanks
  21. bkuhr
    Which relay did you remove, theres 3. If not sure what are the wire colors for this relay. With every think normal ready to start, side stand down, neutral, key on. Plug relay back in--does the relay click?
  22. bkuhr
    '92 Ft Lewis Wa, Buddy had expensive jacked up truck, floor was about 4 feet high, big balloon tires, like big foot. Old target on arty impact range was duece and half with front bumper winch. Buddy wanted winch for his truck. O dark thiry, so no one sees us, we load up tools and head out to impact range with lights off. Never saw impact crater we drove into. Front went straight down, smashed front bumper, pushed front wheels into rear of wheel wells, balloon tires jump out of crater, rear end goes straight down, smashes rear bumper, balloon tires jump out of crater. Now we try to regroup, steering wheel folded back over steering colum, buddy cracked some ribs, Big knot on my head, passenger windshield busted out. Truck still drives. Call it quits and drive (limp) home, front wheels dragging on fenders. When sun comes up realize missing rear liscense plate, oh sh*t. Back out to impact crater to collect plate. Buddy tells insurance hit deer and crashed in ditch up on MT Ranier. In hindsight lucky no livefire going on. I think that old duece is still there, with its winch:)
  23. bkuhr
    mbrood, great theory of operation. Does this mean you DO believe I need to replace my jets? I went out and preformed quick vac leak check. Sprayed carb cleaner under and over carbs, idle increased when under carbs ON ALL 4!, and appeared to increase when sprayed at #3 boot plug. not missing any boot plugs per bobcat. No leaks above carbs. Don't understand what I have wrong for all 4 carbs boots to be leaking, when they were fine before last carb removal. They are seated all the way down, and clamps tight. Only thing different is last time I installed carbs rubbed a little vasoline inside boots to help set carbs. This time did not clean vasoline out, but did not install any more either. Maybe vasoline helped create airtight seal before on worn boots last time??? So, whats the plan? 1. order 2 new jets, 2. pull carbs again to install jets, 3. add more vasoline and reinstall carbs again?
  24. bkuhr
    Parts manuel lists 29 4G0-14142-42-A0 . . JET, PILOT (#42.5) Assuming #42.5 means .425mm, this converts to .0167inches. I reamed clogged jet with .020inches wire. This means, if above is correct, that my jets are 0.0033 too big. Should I be ordering 2 new jets and pull carbs again to install them, or is the reaming likely a non issue and need to concentrate on other possiblities?
  25. bkuhr
    Inquiring minds need to know My problem is a 'back fire' as opposed to Back firing, out the exhaust pipes. When troubleshooting non working cylinders, sprayed starter fluid all along all boots and vac plugs/hoses, was completely free of vac leaks of any kind. Finally got all cylinders working with carb removal, and reamed out plugged jets above in carbs #2 and #4. Reinstalled carbs and resynced. Runs great, only problem is current 'back fire' only during engine braking. When cold engine, just very light pop, After 5 minutes warmed up, serious gun shot. Possible during reassemble something not tight (boots). Haven't had time to recheck vac leaks yet.
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